Perfect answer. You won’t wind up buying something that ultimately should have been done later and missed what you really needed first. Also, watch other videos of what you own to see what works well, and what doesn’t, on your bike. Like the USB charger Martin points out that’s in the wrong location.
Enjoy your videos. I’m new to the world of Can Am. I am a hall of fame master bike builder having many bikes published in various magazines. I also manufacture air intake systems sold throughout the world. Thus I consider myself knowledgeable enough to speak on this platform. Going to this three wheeler is quite a departure for me. The main reason is for health issues. Do to injuries I can no longer ride a bike with a clutch. Arthritis and knee replacements have made it very hard to hold up as well. This solves all these issues. I recently returned from a trip to Sturgis consisting of over 4800 miles with ten of my friends. Riding through all the twists and turns in the Ozarks was simply awesome and the best part of the trip. I used to ride snowmobiles quite aggressively years back when I lived up north. This comes as close as you can get. I had no problem keeping up with my Harley friends that all had big inch motors. Well that is until the open interstate highways. The Can Am fell short of power at this point. While the max speed limits were 80 MPH we would push more when we could. My question to you is this. What can be done to pump it up? I’ve put on the RLS cat exchange and the Acropovic exhaust. Being the industry air intake guy I’m currently building a high performance air intake that will far surpass the K&N. We have traditionally out performed them for years. Obviously a Dyno Jet tuner should help as well. It would appear the pedal commander only increases throttle response not really any HP increase. I’ve seen there is a turbo for the F3 is there anything for the RT ? Any information you can provide I would really appreciate. All in all I would say this bike is awesome and would highly recommend to anyone with similar issues I’ve faced. Thank you very much.
Hi Lee, keep me in loop with the air intake project. I use whatsapp and viber +421902944669 also feel free to ask anything you want. As for RT, not sure if you have 20+ or elder but what you have mentioned to do is all correct appart - catdelete with akra can actually kill little bit of tourque due to backpressure.. dynojet is good and must do, however new models come with new and new ecu and on many 20+ it just dont work.. pesalcommander or what i sell its pedalbox will help.. its increase "only" reaction on your throttle, yes,.. but take it from otger side.. why to have 100horses when your throttle is setup to use only 45of them??? PedalBox unlocks the potential tgat is there.. tge main issue however it the blocation of power on RT20+ Few ppl are working on it down here in europe, but i have not see results yet. The bYke has much more potential, its just put to slow mode by BRP... martin
These sure are not my priority items. I have only had my Ryker for a month - but here are my thoughts - and in order. Must haves: 1 . Baja Ron Anti-sway bar and ends. (Don’t call them sway bars - you are trying to get rid of sway. ). This will give you a much more secure feeling) 2. 65 mm 12 point socket. Don’t leave home without it. I don’t believe most tire shops will have this in stock and won’t be able to help you when you need to have tire repaired or replaced. 3. Speaking of flats - it would be best to carry a tire plug kit with CO2 cartridges. You don’t want to be stuck with a flat that could have been easily and quickly repaired. 4. The stock mirrors suck and you need to get a wider field of vision so you can better see more lanes as well as.beside you. 5. Foam grip pads - My hands are average size, but after a while my fingers go numb from wrapping them around the handle bars. These pads will loosen the finger positions and considerably help. 6. Basic tools. The single tool (a useless single screwdriver) is inadequate for your basic needs. You will need a few sockets (and wrench), torx drivers, and a Spanner wrench for the shocks on the 600 and 900 Ace) These are just my thoughts and don’t include fluff. I think that I have completely changed the safety and convenience of my Ryker with the above. I will probably purchase the maintenance manual so when issues come up I can do most repairs myself. Nice to haves: 1 Max rack - unless you have the Rally edition you need this as so many accessories demand this. 2. The storage sucks. I purchased the single right side saddlebag and mounting rack. What a mistake that was for me. The door support broke right away and the storage was not nearly adequate for my needs. I quickly replaced with the 3 piece luggage system sold by Slingmods . They are much more expensive but much roomier and with the building tail lights, indicators, and brake lights probably add to your safety. 3. Locking “parking brake lever” (this really isn’t a parking brake) lock. If you don’t lock this lever when you are away from the bike you leave an opportunity to allow the lever to be moved and the bike to be moved from where you locked it. 4. Locking gas cap. Don’t leave a vulnerability for foreign objects to get into the fuel system.
Joseph, great points. I also do take always the tire repair kit, it will not help always, but at least i have something to play with while i am waiting for help 😄😄😄 also i have knife with me, we have some issues with handbrake on F3, so if i need to cut it off, i will do it... as for the swaybar or anti-sway bar.. thanx, i just call it as Bajaron calls the product, sooo.. but you wgot the point. Have a great day Joseph. Martin
@@MartinTheVlogger Ok, the OEM flaslight trasnparent cover is dissolving by it self. I all ready replaced another of my f3s 2015 tail indicators and now the another one is coming to apart. Maybe I will replace them with a local motorcycle vendors motorcycle led indicators...
@@goobypls1000 ypu mean the one in front or one in back??? Coz in Europe we have those kind of ugly indicators... and i have my set sitting in garage. If ypu pay shipping, they are yours. 😉 spyder to spyder help 😉
Hey Sir I have the 2010 can am spyder RS. I am in America. If I order the pedal box how much in American dollars will it cost because you said it would be higher in the video.
Hi buddy, first of all double check if you have electrict throttle, and not a cable one. 2010 was a transition year, if you do you will create s beast from your bYke :))) now the USD is 1,1 to eur.. so 275 usd approx plus 10 usd shipping approx
So many ppl miss this. They want to hear what should be the best from others.. Of course there are few things, that can advised, but in general, it must be you who finds out what you miss. 😉
Hello Martin. Greets from Belgium. İ have a spyder f3s from 2019. İ would like to ask you if you also feel a dip in the torque at 3th gear at low rpm. And did you ever use the 2up suspension for the rear ?
Hey buddy, i dont rYde low RPM, but yes in general, you need to be at let say 2500-3000 to really feel acceleration. ECU glash helps a bit with this. I am not sure i know what you mean by 2Up suspension for the rear?
