Very thorough! Mike is a great guy who takes the time to explain in detail how this fix works. Makes all the difference when doing a repair. Nice guy to talk with on the phone wealth of knowledge.
Face it, Eagle Mike has changed more doos than anyone on the planet. He brings up all the details that other videos miss so this is the best video series to watch when changing your Doohickey. Mike's point at 18 minutes into the video is that I've got his torsion spring and doohickey in my bike, now with 181,000 miles without a rebuild. Some might think he implied I have an 'original' Kawasaki lever (doo) but I have had an Eagle lever (doo) in from the beginning. Nice camera work, Thumper Bob!
It's over 184,000 miles now. Watt-Man will be along at some point to post links to his KLR's history. He does regular maintenance, nothing out of the ordinary. Keeping dirt out of the intake makes a big difference, and the ring package in the Gen 1 bikes has proven to hold up better than the Gen 2, Always use a foam filter, make sure it's properly cleaned and oiled. with the correct oil. Proper maintenance is key. We were on a ride years ago, heading back from South Dakota, went out after breakfast, it was 26 degrees F, and the bikes started first press of the button.
@@GunsNBudder This is documented at watt-man.com under the "KLR Articles" tab. Here is a link to one of the articles: watt-man.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/How_Many_Miles.pdf . We just got back from a Colorado ride, I'm just under 185,000 miles.
Going to cause a stir here but have a Gen 1 with over 300,000km on it. Original doohickey, spring and lever. All intact and still tensioning. So good video but pass. Been to over 20 klr rallies in Australia and never seen a broken doohickey, nor has any rider I have spoken with. Over 15 kawasaki dealerships I have visited have never seen a failed one. From that research just seems Australian KLR bikes last longer and un modified than American bikes. Put it down to our climate vs yours, the speeds you travel at. Plus we have different models as well as American models get extra emission stuff on the bike.
I appreciate this very much and hope to fix my old KL600 that just hit 10k miles. The fact that Mike even has a specific kit for such an old model makes me a little more confident in doing this for the first time. I'll be sure to take this two-part series as a holistic lesson in proper tools for the job and not just a set of instructions, as it seems that he's included plenty of good information in between steps.
Thanks Eagle Mike I just finished my install. My doohickey was split in half on the top. I purchased your kit and watched Rocky Mountain ATV install it piece of cake. I ended up finding a lot of items on your website that I wish I would have found before I purchased the OEM. Like the brake pedal stays that you have. I ended up getting the fork seals from you as well.
Hi Mike, I've just come across your channel and subscribed. I have a 2nd hand, 2010, KLR 650 with 26,000 kms (on the clock, but unverified from previous owners). I intend doing the doohicky upgrade, so thanks for the videos. Regards from S Africa Clive
Hey Mike! I just got a 2009 KLR, I am unsure if the previous owner did the doohickey but this video makes it seem a little less intimidating. Thanks for putting it together. Greetings from north Idaho.
@jimmy_dirtbike did you end up doing yours? I'm also in North Idaho and I just picked up a 2008 KLR. I'm planning on doing the doohickey in the next month or two. Would appreciate a more experienced set of eyes if you wanted to meet up :)
@@bmbvenom I havent done the doo in a long time bro so I don't know how much help I would be. I do have the flywheel holder that I will likely never use again. I have my 2009 klr for sale in the Spokane area right now actually.
@@jimmy_dirtbike I'm pretty sure I've seen your bike on fb marketplace. Sorry to see you selling the KLR but hopefully you have other bike(s) to keep you entertained.
@@bmbvenom Yeah its a black one, got it listed for $4100, but I got someone in oregon who wants it so I am gonna pull it down. I have about 5 other 2T bikes that keep me plenty busy! I wasn't a big fan of the KLR after I rode it a little bit, just not the bike I thought I wanted. But I can see it being great for others! I just can't get enough of the 2 strokes, they're so much fun!
Well, I just so happened to find a really good deal on 2017 KLR with only 1k miles. Should I just go ahead and replace these parts Eagle Mike or should I just ride out for a bit? I am wrench turner and things like this always prevent me from just enjoying the ride. Always feel like I have to work on something. Damn Anxiety gets the best of me at times. Thanks brother for the great video and straightforward approach.
Mike, I'm curious as to which components wear in which order. This is apart from the doohickey tensioner system fails. I just did the doohickey upgrade, and what I had was that everything original was in "good" condition, but the eccentric was running the chain very close to the case, the actual clearance measured with a feeler gauge was 0.017". This was with the doohickey bolt loose and the stock linear spring pulling on the doohickey. The front counterbalancer was solid with no wobble, just like the one you show in this video. However, the front sprocket rubber looked just a tad thinner than the rear and eccentric ones. So the ultimate question would be: which components would need to be replaced to prevent the chain from running into the case? The front counterbalancer sprocket? The chain? Both? Something else? Thanks. Btw bike is a 1999 with 13,500 miles.
I'm going to do another video on the wear points. I'll show some worn parts, and some severe failures. Also explain in detail why there is enough stress to cause wear. When I first started working on this system I didn't see why things would be breaking or wearing.
My 2023 klr650s has 3k miles on it. It jerks in first gear sometimes, and I can hear a clanking noise coming from the left side of the engine if I engine brake. I just missed my warranty by 3 days. Any ideas what it could be?
2012 with 8900 miles of easy road riding. Just did it, stock one was not broke. Went smooth and I have no questions on anything I did during the install. The original one was a little loose, I didnt know you could adjust the tension so easy or I would have done it before, there was plenty of travel left on the original doohicky. Anyway went smooth and bike sounded really quiet after, then took it for a rid and it sounds weird. Maybe just listening closer, but sounds almost like a fan running on high. The fan is not running. do you think it could be the chain being adjusted properly it would make it sound different?
It's going to sound a little different. It's not all about whether the parts are broken, it's also about whether the parts are working correctly. Since it wasn't adjusted before, there will be wear on the front sprocket (worse place) and other areas. You are likely hearing the chain on the guides. Nothing to worry about. You might try (with the engine off) loosening the adjustment bolt 1/2 turn, tap the side of the case with a piece of 2X4 wood, then tighten the adjustment bolt to 72 inch-lbs, emphasis on inch for those reading along that don't wrench much. Also sometimes people preload the lever by pushing on it, then tightening the bolt. You don't need to do that. Some of this info isn't just for you - others will read this too. I just did a 2022 with 14.5K miles. The adjustment spring was completely out of tension and the front sprocket was badly worn. I put a new sprocket in place, the factory spring would have had proper tension. The torsion spring takes the slack out much better, limiting wear on the other parts like the sprocket and chain.
Hey thanks for a quick reply. I kind of thought it might be the chain on the guides. It was definitely loose before. Not bad, but the original doohicky did move forward about 3/16 of a inch on the slot. I did not inspect the gears, but wish I had. I did notice its only after it gets warmed up pretty good. The next day I started it and 100% could not hear the noise I was talking about. It is suppose to be really warm this weekend so I plan on riding a little. I will see then if anything seems bad. Also, I didnt realize I only had some Penzoil 10w -30 full synthetic oil in the garage when I put it back together and I put that in just to run it a little and plan on changing to 10W 40 soon. I dont know what was in it before, I bought the bike last year from a dealer I trust, and they did a oil change but didnt tell me what they put in it. Dont think it would make a difference on sound. @@eaglemikeeaglemike6774
Hey Mike, I just bought a 2022. In two weeks I’ve put about 900 miles. Obviously I’m going to hit the 5,000 mark pretty soon. My question is, do you know if doing the upgrade will void my warranty? I extended my warranty to 3 years. My brother owns his own shop and has been working on bikes and building engines for 30 plus years. He’s probably done this work on a KLR before. I will have him do it. I won’t do the work my self.
Hello Mike can I pls confirm the ratchet Reversable handle you use in this video is it an AB-Nielsen tool? This is a great tool. Having trouble finding it seems it is only sold online?
Noticed the bolts on the covers have white residue on them. Corrosion or salt? I see the same on mine. Is that something to worry about? Or can I just clean them and reassemble? Thanks for the video :)
Great Video like usual Mike! Question...if you take this apart, your spring is broken but you can't find the small broken piece of the spring? What does one do?
There's a window behind the idler sprocket (the sprocket behind the doo). Get a magnetic fishing tool. They are usually a piece of bendable aluminum wire with a magnet on one end and a handle on the other. I usually find the pieces all the way back on the left side, back by the drain plug. Sometimes if the pieces are small, they end up on the screen under the clutch cover on the right side of the engine. Good luck!
@@eaglemikeeaglemike6774 Thank you Sir! I have never heard of the bendable aluminum magnet until you mentioned it and I looked it up! Going to add another tool to my collection...
There are 3 other KLR owners who frequent my local dealership. They all have more than 90,000 miles on bone stock engine Gen 1 KLRs. Mine currently has 30,000 on it. I may replace my doo hickey or may not. I cannot find any real documentation on stock doo failures. Hmmm What to do
I'll be doing a video on the history of the parts soon, and will show you a number of gen 1 parts. Make up your mind after that. An engine can run ok, even with broken parts. Some dealers have also been telling owners "they all vibrate and make nose, it's the nature of the engine." You might not agree after my video. I'll show you parts, and explain how everything works. Then you can decide the correct path forward.
Mike I appreciate the video and the work that you’ve done I’m not trying to be critical but as important as this video is you would think the focus of the camera would be clearer it is not clear to me at all
All years are pretty much the same. I made a full video on a 2022 that is listed on another site. If you order parts directly from me I will email you a pdf and links to videos.
@@kevinon4wheels You can use the 2022 video for reference. There's a couple of things that don't pertain to earlier years, but easy to figure out. The overall process is the same.
Hi Mike. I’m on your website store and I’m wondering what the difference is between your Doo kit and lever Kit. I want to change out my doohickey one my new 2022 klr
Remove the left side outer cover and see if the key is in the slot. We're you able to turn the starter gear with 1finger, with the small cluster gears out?
