Door panel removal Golf MK5 Front Passenger side 

diamondsprogler livingforever thank you :) always glad when my videos can help others

and thank you for your comment ^__^

i'm always happy when a video I made can help someone :) thanks for your comment

Robert Toy Thank you sir, it makes me happy to hear my video was helping :)

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Thank you :) Glad my video could help out!

Thank you :)

glad my video could help you :) thanks for your comment

Thank you very much sir :)

iMatt65 Thank you sir! Glad my video could help :)

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+Mark Rogers Thank you good sir

i3ryandrb0y thank you! If it works to open from the inside only I would begin to check if the wire that goes to the handle is in place correctly. It is rather easy to remove the lock cylinder by loosen one screw on the side of the door when it is open that is very close to the cylinder. There is a sticker or a plug over the hole you take off and you reach it. After the cylinder is lose you may check the wire if it gone lose or slack. There is like a half splined plastic end of the wire you can put in a groove of the handle to adjust the tension of the wire. I also heard that if it gets stuck and the wire is in place it may be a spring interfering with the handle and I think you need to take off the lock module to reach it. If you need help finding out more I can see if I can find it again. Cheers

luke8250 thank you very much :)

Glad I could help :)

Indeed, to have the 8" elements installed is really something you gonna enjoy every day as you get so much extra drive from them compared to 6,5" elements

No problem :) I am glad it help you

Thank you very much :)

thank you :) I am always happy to hear when my work could help people

Thanks :) it makes me happy to hear that my video could help :)

Hi. thanks for the kudos :) I know what have happened inside your door and also how to fix it. the problem is to get the door open when it gets locked like that. there is a trouble inside the lockchest unit and it will eventually open if you use the car normally. you may try to lock/unlock with the key and hitting the handle or around it from the outside but be careful not to dent anything. mostly it may get unlocked if you check the door every day until it works and do not lock it again until it it fixed. if the door never opens it is nesessary to smash the unit if i understood the workshop correct. however to get the lock module out you need to remove the outer doorskin and handle to reach the module and it should not be nesessary to remove the panel but the door needs to be open. the skin is taken off by removing the screws on the inside around the door and also to take off the handle and lock. well inside I can pretty safe say that the lock module needs to be taken apart and the 2 electric motors inside to be cleaned and re lube in a special manner and it should work just fine again. I have some reference pictures from when I repare my rear door but I never did the fronts myself. it was after booth my front doors fail I got tired of the insane cost and find out why they fail like that and also did find it and when it was time for the rear to fail I just waited until it unlock itself one day and took it apart then and fixed it myself

Glad to help :)

Thank you sir! not sure about that part actually as I had no need to change them. I think the best thing to do is to call your local dealer and see if the part can be ordered, if that's the case it can also be changed some way and then next thing to do is to take down the panel and have a look how it is done :)

+Neries it's almost the same way as the right one, the control panel is lifted upwards to release, can be quite hard to get off so be careful

So, finally you decided not to have doors on your golf Peter? :)

and thank you for watching my video :) glad it could help

No Alex, doors will stay on :-). Need to fix a rattle and fit tweeters for which I need to remove the door trim.

Raja Mohammad glad I could help!

yes you can see most wires pretty good when the panel is taken off, you have to take the panel off to remove the tweeter and it has one screw and 3 clips that holds it in place, the top one is a ring type and use to be a bit tricky, you need to pull traight out, and to put it back you need to remove it from the tweeter holder and put it back in the door. then you just press it back on. you may watch my video Front door speaker change Golf MK5 8" Kit it should give you a pretty good look whats under there hopefully :) hope you can find the problem. when my speakers gave in booth tweeter and the woofers made a pretty bad sound and change of them was nesessary. best regards PM

Thank you :) you gonna need some Torx keys of the size T20 and T30 , it can be bits or regular screwdriver type and just turn the screws counterclockwise to remove them

Glad to hear I could help you out! Best regards from Sweden

I am not sure if your jetta has the same adapter rings as my golf, you see for the front speakers in my car there are literally 8" speakers mounted as stock but they are slimmed down to a fit of about 7" and the rings fits like a glove directly, but as a regular 8" speaker has a ring for mount screws it is physically bigger than the stock speaker but has the same cone area, the rings I have in my car is however Autoleads SAK-3109 they may fit certain models :)

Hi! the mids I have in my doors are B2 Audio HN8, I think these are replaced with the newer model HN8P. It is possible the HN8 could still be available too but not sure about that as the store I bought mine from has replaced the HN8 with the P model instead. I think if you search for B2 Audio HN8P you should find a webshop or store that should deliver to you. the sound from these elements are great if you have a subwoofer in the car and can take quite some power. Greetings from Sweden btw :)

I still keep track of every single message I get on my channel new or old ;) The rear panels are pretty much the same way of removal as the front ones. The speakers are smaller in the rear doors as well. Namely you should be able to install 6,5” kit. If you have cables or not in there I am not sure about if they were not installed at the factory but in most cases you have the cables preinstalled as these speakers are optional. I could also recommend you to either way use a coax speaker with the tweeter in the mid rather than having it inside the factory location or not use a tweeter at all in the rear doors. The location of this tweeter is very close to your left ear when driving or the same for your passenger and the tweeter will play right into your ear and ruin your experience of sound. When I had my car here I even disconnected the rear doors and routed all power to the front alone. It play so well even in the back if you have a good front speaker kit in this car. But rear mid speakers may improve bass response in the sound if you don’t use a subwoofer in the trunk.

@@Pulverrostmannen ty soo much for yout answer, my sound system is full stock so im planing to buy new speakers in the front and 2 in the rear. Dont want a crazy sound system, just so i can enjoy music while i am driving. I was going to buy a pair of Sony XS-FB1730 in the rear. And which ones do you suggest for the front doors? Again ty for your response!

@@_Drekavac_ No problem :) it´s hard to tell exactly what speakers you can get for a front system but if you aim for an 8" kit a two-way system will be enough, if you use a mid range speaker capable of a rather wide range of sound and a good quality tweeter, since there is pretty much space in the tweeter slot you can fit pretty much any Silk dome tweeter in there, but this comes to taste as well, I like silk tweeters but many don´t but in general you get good sound either way if you get a decent kit with separate filters included for the specific kit.I did use a sound processor for my system and this gave anything you could wish for in regards of adjusting the sound. but to be frank are these cars very good to build in and your result should come pretty good as long as you don´t install the cheapest speakers you can find :)

and thanks for watching it :) I am not sure about how to service the power window as I had no problems with those yet,the motor is seen when you take off the door panel but I think you will need to take off the door skin to do anything with it or fix wires and stuff for the window. it should exist some forums regarding the issue I hope :)

Always happy to hear my video could help :)

They are 8 inches :)

Normally you can’t get the panel of the door if it is closed tight as far as I know. There are some tricks you can try on the door if they get stuck in a locked state, (I had it myself on 3 out of 4 doors on this car) One trick I heard about is that you can wind down the windshield and use a thin metal bar to smash the chest open with from the gap by the window so that you don’t have to drill in the skin but I’d say this is the last solution to fix the problem. Another way you can try it is to use your key and lock/unlock the car repeatedly while bump the outer door handle with your hand until it eventually unlocks. Another way that worked just fine to me was to simply wait it out, using the car every day and every time you unlock the car pull the handle to check if the bad door is open. Eventually the door will unlock and make really sure not to lock the car again until the chest is repaired. Option 4 is the best if you have the time and will to take the doors apart and fix the chest before they eventually fail. I know what fails in the chest and how to fix it if you want to know, you don’t need any new parts to fix them. Just some tools and oil and they will work for years to come. Let me know if you want more details about it. But my engine blew to pieces on this car so I can’t make any new detailed videos on this topic however

@@Pulverrostmannen Sorry about your engine. Thank you for your reply. I am glad that there isn't an easy solution that I missed. The car has now done a couple of days working perfectly. MOT in two weeks. Are you saying that if I take a lock to pieces and clean it up and apply some oil it will continue working well? I think I am interested because this is a common problem and we are likely to keep this car for a few more years. One last thing; I don't think that 'chest' is the right word!

Ian Deloford yes, if you make this service on your lock modules they should work perfectly for quite some time. As far as where I live we call the unit a “lock chest” here in Sweden anyway lol. Anyway what happens with these that makes them fail is due to moist air oxidizing the electric motors that are inside each lock module. There are two motors in each unit. You will need to take apart one of these which is not that hard as it may sound as long as you are careful and not drop out the parts in one big pile because then you will have a great time puzzle it together again. What you need to do is to take out these motors, they are installed on what first gonna look like soldered joints directly into the motors but they are just pushed on the motors like a wall power plug. Take them off these and clean the contact surfaces with fine sand paper and lube them if needed. What is the important part of this step is to revive the motors. The brushes and stator are the part that is failing due to oxidized surfaces. These motors don’t spin more than a turn or so and never have a chance to grind away deposits of grit and stuff that builds up on them during time and it makes them fail when the oxidized layer are so big the contact is broken. First you want to have some electronic cleaning spray, this is a common thing you should be able to get in your local store. Spray this directly on the brushes and stator in the motor and apply 12 volts directly to the motor having it out on your work bench with a small 12volt battery. Be careful as this liquid is a bit flammable to use so don’t overuse this spray. Help the motor start spin if it don’t start by itself due to the corrosion. Let the motor run for a minute and check for stable operation and make the same to the second motor. Second step is to apply electronic oil/contact spray on to the brushes and stators and again run the motors for a minute and check that they spin evenly and rapid. They should not need any help to start spin and should start rapidly and not hesitate in any way. If they run strong your motors can be used again. Assemble your lock module correctly and your modules should run for a long time. The applied oil is important as it protects the surface for corrosion. If you succeed you just save hundreds of dollars for new once. Just take it really easy when you split them not to drop stuff of misplace them. I do have one lock module I can make a video of to take apart if needed. But I need to find it first in that case. Otherwise good luck with restoring your car to a better future

@@Pulverrostmannen Thanks, really appreciate that. Car is running perfectly at present but I will take your advice. Through my long life I have taken things apart, fixed them and successfully put them together again. In the old days I used to write notes to myself or even attach labels to parts; now I just take photos if reassembly is going to be difficult! Thanks again.

Ian Deloford I be happy to hear the results if you like to share them with me. Good luck!

The placements of screws and the likes use to be pretty similar between the models but I'm not sure if there are any hidden secrets on your car

Glad it help you out :) Greetings from Sweden

Man tackar :) mest information om grejerna jag har hittar du i denna videons beskrivning: Front door speaker change Golf MK5 8" Kit jag använder fortfarande bakdörrarnas originalsystem faktiskt, jag har en Audison Bit10 och ett 4-kanals A klass steg som driver dörrarna (MDS APH-4) har du samma system som jag har i min bil sitter det slimmade 8" element i framdörrarna och 6,5" bak. mitt framsystem spelade jag slut på ett år men bak låter det riktigt bra för att vara standard och verkar hålla bättre med eftersom jag inte pressar baksystemet lika hårt som fram. jag använder en Dension GW-300 som USB/AUX interface och det gör att jag får all låtinformation i instrumentpanelen och en ny tankindikator som visar antal liter i tanken, den fungerar bra men har lite glitchar mot en dedikerad huvudenhet men man lär sig hur man ska göra med dom ringa problemen. tycker det är värt att ha bilens original stereo (normalt inte lol) men det ser mer seriöst ut att ha stock i den bilen tycker jag. med en bit10 får man inga störningar samt att du får en Remote direkt från den enheten som du startar stegen med så du slipper leta kabel i bilen. ljudmässigt sätt har jag med mitt handbyggda framsystem och dom andra prylarna lyckats imponera på personer som tävlar i välljud. framsystemet bygger på B2 audio HN8 element som är otroligt tonala och rappa och ger underbar snärt i DnB mm men saknar den djupa basen som stock har så en kagge bak i bilen och dessa är det bästa ljudet jag lyckats skapa under alla mina år som jag pillat med ljud :) diskanterna är MDS gamla flaggskepp DMT-9X 40MM silke som är svåra att hitta nuförtiden. filter är vanliga 2 vägs. fråga gärna mer om den här bilen du har skaffat, jag kan mycket om den :) PS, kolla under frigoliten på höger sida i bagaget om du har en extra batteriplats där, den är guld värd men sitter gömd och med mängder av bultar runt ett svart plåtlock. finns på vissa modeller av MK5. tack för att du kollar mina videos och för din kommentar

Sam Freeman thank you :)

+Ambrož Kvaternik Not sure if a link would help you as the result would differ between countries, but the Mount rings for 8" speakers I use here is: Autoleads SAK-3109 if you google for this you should find them :)

+Thrasher305 if you like to remove the cloth from the panel I think you need to either heat the welds to make them release or cut away the top of them so they can glide through the holes. but I am not sure how you do this the best way. be careful

Ha ha it was close but I am not from Finland. However I am quarter Finnish from the roots of my parents but in the total I am born and live in Sweden all the time so in technical terms I am not Suomalainen at all ;)

Vegard Johannessen glad att höra min video kunde hjälpa till :)

OnkarrSingh that is correct, it is a slot for the optional 3-way system these cars have support for but most were built with the regular 2-way and the little grill was left empty. It is very shallow and small and there is not much you can fit there without modifications but in my opinion you are really good off with a good 2-way system instead in most cases if you plan to change your stock system

Pulverrostmannen thanks for your feedback, all the best

Glen Collier if i remember correct you can take the bottom part of the handle off the panel from the inside of the panel. Don’t remember if it was melt welded plastic or screws that holds it though

Thanks for your comment. I suppose your door got locked and won't open again for you. It can be tricky to get it open and you need to take off the outer door skin to reach the lock module. What you can do is try to wait it out by using and lock unlock your car in your daily use and feel if it gets open every single time. It will eventually open again and don't lock it again by then. If you are lucky and the door opens I know how to repair the lock module. You may also try to knock a bit on the handle and using the key to lock and unlock at the same time. Otherwise if nothing works brute force is the only thing I'm afraid. I think it was using a thin metal bar and smash the module. they did it on my car when I had the same thing. Expensive... I waited out my rear door and when it open i fixed the door myself and find out why the modules fail. and saved much money. Hope anything of this helps :)

Pulverrostmannen By knocking on the handle what do you mean exactly? From inside Or outside? I got a new lock already and checked the price of interior replacement, not too dangerous (~45 EUR). I wish that damn door would open at least once :)

***** Using your hand and bonk on the outside handle to vibrate the lock module inside the door and work with the lock button on and off and it may unlock, chance is little. as I did not repair the front doors myself i'm not sure if you need to take of the panel inside or not. what I know is that the outer skin needs to be taken off to reach the module and the bolts for it is naturally on the inside of the door so it needs to be open for you to reach em. the rear door was fixed with the door panel still on the door and i had to wait about 2 weeks before it for one time opened and I could fix it. if it is a help for you I may upload a picture of my rear door how it look with the skin removed on my G+ later today :)

Pulverrostmannen Believe it or not, the bonk did the trick and the door opened after 15 second of firm knock under the handle from the outside. As I got the T scredriwers required I only would have one question to you. Some forums referred to the lock being screwed by a special VW bolt (M6) which looks like a double/triple square type. Do you have the right information on this one? Anyhow thanks for the tips, I really do appreciate your wits! :) PS: Apparently you need these tools - www.vwgolf.net.au/showthread.php?10618-DIY-VW-Golf-MKV-MK5-door-locked-stuck-FIX! "T20 TorxT30 TorxT20 Torx allen key if you use the socket's like me. This is for when you remove the door handle as the socket style wont fit into the hole in the door.Small flat head screwdriverM6 Triple Square bit for removing the door lock from the door."

***** How awesome it worked for you. not sure about the size of the bit but you need but a 12 teeth bit to remove the bolts holding the module. and one little (I think torx) is hidden inside a sticker that holds the key/lock thing in place close to the two 12 teeth ones. you may watch this video here to see the about that one close enough ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-esE1Lxj_pD0.html it is important to remove the outer door handle before the skin is messed with. after the lock is removed you need to look inside and lift out a wire that goes in a splined groove. and then lift two hooks inside of the handle that pulls it back in and angle the handle out from the door. remove another screw that gets visible and then take off the plastic on the thin side of the door and remove all bolts around from the backside close to the edges. then the skin should be off the door and you see the module in there under a plastic cover. then it is pretty simple. remember to adjust the module so the door close easy and nice and put things back in reverse order. hope I got all that right now lol

dennis carlsson tjena! Det är mycket snarlik procedur att avlägsna dörrpanelen bak på den bilen. Hursomhelst sa du att dörren inte går att öppna? Baklås med fenomenet att det Inre handtaget tar emot och det yttre går att dra helt ut utan motstånd? Isåfall är det sannolikt låskistan som lagt av. Jag vet hur du kan laga den och spara tusenlappar. Men du måste avlägsna yttersidan på dörren för att komma åt den och då måste dörren vara öppen. Det du kan testa är att banka på yttre handtaget och låsa/låsa upp bilen med nyckeln samtidigt och känna om den lossnar tillslut. Annars kör du med bilen varje dag ett tag och låser och låser upp den som vanligt och känner på dörren varje gång du låst upp tills den går upp. När den väl går att öppna lås absolut inte bilen tills du lagat kistan igen. Om det är så att det behövs kan jag hjälpa dig med kistan så du kan använda den igen isåfall

Ah precis flera har sagt de också fick även felkod 01334 när vi kollade och det pekar mot kistan

dennis carlsson precis. Det är ganska vanligt att dom strular på vag. Vet inte vad felkoden betyder där men jag har fått åtgärda 3 av dörrarna på min bil för samma problem. Att reparera detta på verkstad brukar gå lös på ca 3 lök så jag tog reda på vad som händer i kistan när detta händer och kom på hur man kan laga det själv. Förutsatt att det är det som är felet på din bil så behöver man lite elektronikrengöring och electro olja och plocka isär kistan rengöra och smörja elmotorernas släpringar och kol och köra dom löst och sätta ihop allt småplock som finns i kistan igen he he

Pulverrostmannen okej ja men jag ska pröva de om jag kan får bort inredningen 😊

+Matt93312 Glad my video could help :) thanks for your comment

Justin Luckhoff glad I could help! Greetings from Sweden :)

+ASO69 you refer to the inner door handle with the lock/unlock buttons on the driver side? I think the handle is dot welded with plastic studs on the inside but I am not sure about this as I have not had the need to remove it

+Pulverrostmannen on passenger side , the handle is made of two pieces, i have to remove the top one

+ASO69 ok, you will need to remove the panel to do so I'm almost sure of, while it is off I think there was 2 torx that holds the handle assembly together from the inside. have a little hard to remember this now as it was over 2 years I had the panel off last time :)

+Pulverrostmannen handles i have are so scratched so i took the drivers side and wrap it and tried taking the passanger side off but i dont wanna remove the entire pannel to do it, ill try doing it in car haha

+ASO69 yeah, it is a common thing on these cars. good luck then sir

Thank you very much :)

Gabriel Popoff glad it could help! Cheers

Thank you :)

The cone area is equal to 8 inches, the replacement speaker has a bit larger total diameter as the mounting ring is bigger. Otherwise the stock speaker is about as close you get to 7 inches so an aftermarket speaker will not fit into the door panel funnel so you will need to remove it. I have a separate video on the speakers if you wanna have a closer look :)

@@Pulverrostmannen thank you for tips.

@@BalkanYado no problem :) good luck with your build

Hi I bought these at my local car audio shop, Mount rings for 8" speaker: Autoleads SAK-3109. I have a separate video showing a bit more the actual change of speakers too

Thanks :)

glad my video could help :)

Rayaan Shaikh if it is the one near the tweeter it is a Wooden screw about 25mm long and 5mm thick. I think the ones in the bottom is pretty much the same too

Pulverrostmannen thanks a very helpful

Rayaan Shaikh no problem :) glad I could help

Tackar! jag tror det sitter samma element I framdörrarna på dom här bilarna men jag är inte helt säker. Original elementet är tekniskt sett en 8 tummare men utan kanten som en normal högtalare har. det gör att originalet mäter 7 tum men fortfarande har samma konarea som en riktig 8 tum, dock gör detta att man inte kan ha kvar ringarna i dörrpanelen när man byter till nya 8 tummare så man får ta bort dom, dock saknar jag dom inte precis

+Pulverrostmannen Tack för riktigt snabbt svar! Okej så det bör alltså vara väldigt enkelt att få i 8" utan att modda. Har du koll på om det även får plats 8" i framdörrarna på mk4:an? Har nämligen tänkt att köpa min första bil mot våren, och skulle väldigt gärna vilja ha en bil där man får plats med 8" på originalplatsen :) Har även funderingar på att försöka plasta så man får plats med 2*6.5"-8" i dörrarna :)

är det samma element monterade i bilen som jag hade är det riktigt lätt att få i 8 tummare på MK5, monteringsringarna jag använde finns i beskrivningen på denna videon. jag gillar dörrarna på MK5 för det är mycket plats att jobba på och man kan limma in mycket större diskanter i samma hållare som originalen sitter monterade i. skall du bygga i MK4 är det 6,5 tum som gäller såvida du inte tar till större modifikationer. jag har haft en MK4 med ha ha

+Pulverrostmannen Tackar för infon! Då blir det nog att försöka satsa på en mk5 då jag helst vill undvika att plasta men ändå få riktigt skönt tryck i midbasen! :) Har i dagsläget installerat ljud i föräldrarnas Polo 6r, har dämpat dörrarna, satt in Hertz hv165L.4 som drivs av DLS cc-2 och sen byt ut diskanterna mot Audison ap-1. Blev oerhörd skillnad mot original, och då ska jag även snart dra kablar bak för baslåda :)

trevligt, ljudbilden är mycket fin i MK5 faktiskt och med rätt middar så blir det otroligt dynamisk snare och rappa ljud. om det är så att du behöver tips gällande huvudenheten och installation kan jag hjälpa med nästan allt du behöver veta. sen vet jag inte när du tänkt köpa bil för jag är faktiskt inne på att byta bilen snart och köpa nåt nyare. min bil kanske är av intresse då och jag kommer sälja den med det stora framsystemet, gateway och div kablage kvar monterat för det är för mycket jobb att plocka ut det och det är dessutom anpassat för just den bilen så det är inte till så stor nytta till annat. är extra oem plats för batteri bak och den som vill får med den specialbyggda slutstegsplattan att skruva grejerna på :)

Pascal Couraudon thank you very much! I am always glad when my videos can help others

storm your lock control module has likely got stuck inside, it is pretty common on these cars and the module can be fixed if you find someone to take it apart and lube the two electric motor brushes and run the motors lose with 12 volts for a while and they normally works fine for years. But you need to remove the outer door skin to actually remove the module and then the door needs to be open too. The fact that your door can’t be opened may be solved in some ways, One you can try is to bonk on the door handle while lock and unlock the car with the remote and try over and over again and it may open. If not try next option Second thing is to wait, use your car every day lock and unlock the car normally but feel if the door opens up because it may do that eventually and when it does do not lock the car again until the module been replaced or repaired because it may get stuck again otherwise. Last thing is to destroy the module and this is normally done in workshops that does this repair. A steel bar is put down between the window and skin and the module is hammered to pieces until it unlocks. And naturally this gonna cost more. But the second alternative usually works but you won’t know how long you need to try this until the lock opens. I know how to repair these modules but my engine broke and I don’t have the car more so make a video on the door skin and module gonna be rather hard now

I did manage to open the door by using the lock inside driver car door by lock -> unlock + pull the inside door handle -> lock -> unlock + pull the inside door handle. I repeated this many times until it unlocked. I was so happy and I managed to remove the panel according to this video. I was going inside to see instructions how to replace the lock mechanism, but when I did so, I shut the door and locked the car with the remote. When I went back to the car, it wouldn't open again and I hate myself so much for closing the car door now. I have tried doing the same procedure but now by pulling the hook on the wire instead of pulling the car door handle. This time it doesn't seem to open again and Im so frustrated.

storm yeah, this is bound to happen if the door is locked again before the module is repaired but it should open again eventually but it can really be nagging as it can take much trying and time for it to actually happen. Keep trying and it may give you another chance again but don’t lock the car again if it opens. It is likely oxide on the actuator motors brushes and rings in the lock module that makes it not work and it can get enough contact again for the door to open again but it won’t come easy most of the time. I been there myself

Thank you :)

+Ingar Lia And thanks for watching my video sir :)

Tackar tackar :) det är alltid kul att höra en nöjd besökare till min lilla kanal

Thank you sir

+Serdar Keskin Yepp, man är ju svensk så ;D

+derek steele Glad my video could help :)