*SHOP FOR MINI AMPS* D4S MiniMaxx Amplifiers: lddy.no/1hrle D4S MM1005 1000W 5ch Amp: lddy.no/1k2df D4S MM3000KFD 3000W Full Range Capable Monoblock Amp: lddy.no/1k2dg Elac Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers: amzn.to/3Mmdbcz SAVARD Hi-Q 6.5" Subwoofer: lddy.no/1iv98 (Use WAL7 for 7% off) See Other Mini Amp Videos: ru-vid.com/group/PLu98-M_EowHPeIJDo-ISyHCtT__PzQsDi VIDEO INDEX 0:00 Introduction 0:23 Unboxing MM1005 2:05 MM1005 Features 3:32 MM1005 Amp Dyno Tests (4ch) 5:28 MM1005 Amp Dyno Tests (Bridged) 6:28 MM1005 Amp Dyno Tests (Sub) 9:30 MM1005 Sound Demo 10:55 MM1005 Amp Guts 11:46 MM1005 PROS and CONS 12:40 MM3000KFD Overview 14:08 MM3000KFD Amp Dyno Tests 16:18 MM3000KFD Amp Guts 17:04 MM3000KFD PROS and CONS 18:07 EXTRAS _Note: Amps were sent from D4S for testing, but video is not sponsored by D4S. Down4Sound paid a fee to have the amps tested and shown in this video but all content was created by Williston Audio Labs without input from D4S and we show features, tests and give our honest feedback_ TEST BENCH EQUIPMENT SMD / D'Amore Engineering Amp Dyno (AD-1): is.gd/wccad1 XS Power D1400 Batteries - amzn.to/2BPFCKW XS Power PSC60 Charger - amzn.to/2CHGcfs Fluke 1000A AC/DC Clamp Meter: amzn.to/2Rw5WDA Handheld Dyno AMM-1: is.gd/wccamm1 My Favorite Precision Screwdriver Kit: amzn.to/3yAaPmn _DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase from one of the product links, I may receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase_
The connectors are Molex Micro-Fit 3.0. I made a set of longer shielded connectors instead of using the pigtail that came with my MM1004. It would be nice if these were available in pre-made longer lengths.
Thank you for the review and constructive criticism! We’re working on upgrading caps but man it’s such a long wait for them. Overall for the price and what people are getting I think it’s an amazing option for our budget minded bassheads 😊
That 1005 has a lot of real world application. People like me that want to upgrade their 4 factory speakers and add a sub will love this amp. Plenty of power over the stock system.
People seem to forget or not understand how much power 200 wstss actually is. We used to run entire subwoofer systems on 200 watts or less in the 80's and 90's. Crutchfield used to have an add that said "100 watts to your subwoofers is loud. 150 watts is louder. 200 is mind blowing" or something like that. It's been 30 years. Lol The point is, 200+ watts is plenty for the average person that just wants a little bump to fill in their low end. .
I absolutely agree. The market is polluted with high power claims and options, now relatively cheap. That 500-600watts will push 2 entry level 10s or 12s enough to rattle a vehicle.
I absolutely disagree. Subwoofers are less efficient nowadays. Back in those days, they had all paper cones and were much shorter excursion… what are you thinking?
That MM1005 is really nice for a 3 way system. 500 watts into a higher efficiency sub and the right box will flex a windshield. Channels 1 to 4 have decent power too. I used to have all out systems in my vehicles. Extra batteries, alternators, caps and all. Complete compact systems are where it’s at now.
@@matthewf1979Up until fairly recently I used to always drive with a windows down and the stereo cranked. Now that I'm a bit older, I prefer keeping the windows up and playing the music at a nice moderate level. 😂
Really appreciate the lower voltage tests. Many of these modern German cars with smart charging only run 13.6-13.8v at most situations even if they have 140a+ alts from the factory
As an owner of the MM1000, MM1004, and MM504 these are amazing amplifiers for the price!! Really just can’t beat the price. This 5ch easily should outperform my Rockford Fosgate P1000x5 also about a third of the price!!
I think they dont mind an honest review because they know you will put the amp through the paces, and as long as the amp is doing the numbers or more, that’s all the advertising they need
Only thing I don't like is those bright blue voltage numbers that light up your interior at night. I'd have to dim it with a piece of window tint or something. But they are extremely nice looking though.
I run a 5 channel in my daily. It's a kicker rated at 400 RMS on the sub channel. With an efficient 12 inch I score 132 db on the screen sealed at 36 Hz. That's all I need 😊
I’m obsessed with these mm amps!! I’m hoping to get some asap. Love that 5 channel, perfect for the Avalanche! 🎉 but the mm3000 used for a 2 ohm load at 2500 watts is an awesome setup! 🎉
I use your videos to decide what to buy. My budget is far below average. I like to know which companies push rated power, and which don't. Maybe I'll get there eventually, but right now D4S and Skar are the winners for bass on a budget.
Love that 5ch it sounded so good on elac and sub and the sub wasn’t all floppy and wishy washy as sometimes sounds on cheaper amps. Also that red finish is sick
On the stinger square positive speaker wire, grab some flush cutters, trim each corner at an angle, and the ferrules will slide completly over them:) ( or not, sorry, im just ocd😂) gr8 videos, as ALWAYS
D4S building a Legend one amp at a time. 20 years from now todays stereophiles will be talking about these in hushed reverence. Putting high quality gear out that gives you extra at that accessible price...that new and budget minded kids can get is way better than in the 90s-2000s when the good stuff was expensive. Now we can get the good stuff and grow it quickly
Can’t mix up the positive and remote on that 3000KFD! Couldn’t resist 😂. They should have put RCAs on it though that pigtail on a single channel amp is tacky.
Jp spent the money to establish his amps and has a wide variety but all us hobbyist wish the companies would step up their repair service cause it is a pain to have to buy the same thing over when sometimes all it takes is a guy who can fix it
@@travissapp4273 Voltage is adjustable. Clipping is super accurate due to the internal design. Temperature accuracy is unknown. The little temperature probe changes resistance based on temperature and has it's own window of tolerance. I'd imagine it's decently close. Also keep in mind that you don't have to be super accurate when it comes to temperature. You just need a rough idea if it's hot or too hot, etc...
Amps have come a long ways since the old days😂. I remeber you were doing good if you paid $1.00/watt. Now at 3400 watts, thats roughly $0.10 cents/watt😊. Glad that amps are more cheaper and great quality also. Looks like a HOME RUN to me.
Just purchased the Mm504 and one of the pig tail rca's was faulty and would inly produce static and a bizzing aound. Sent it to their repair shop as a warranty defect. We will see what they say and hopefully send me aome new rca pig tail adapters.
I just need a solid 600x6. I love my jp77 but I’m locked into the 2k sub channel. It would be amazing to get a 600x6 or 1200x6 and the sub channel becomes a field of options.
I like the and prefer the JP amps and his innovation and design language, however seeing the ds18 5000 watt mini amp meade tested a week or so ago I think I would only get big amp when space or aesthetics was not an issue, even though the ds18 also is not a bad looking amp.
Apparently it’s been awhile since ive watched your channel. What happened to that sound cube box? Neighbors complain too much? Thanks for sharing this. Aloha
I think 5channels is the way to go when it comes to not spending a butt load of money. I ran a 5ch amp in my jeep running to an eq and my Nakamichi deck.
I noticed that when the Mm1005 amp was powered up, the protect light illuminated on the amp for a brief second, but didn’t illuminate on the bass remote. Is this normal?
Yes, it's normal. The amp is showing you that the light works, now if it stayed illuminated then there might be an issue but that wasn't the case. Hope this helps, cheers....
@@jdmintegradp I would have guessed if the amp protect light came on, so would the protect light on the bass remote, since they are linked together. No?
As always Big D, loved the video and info. I wanted to ask you a question about an amp that I'm curious about. Its the Hifonics BE35-2100.1D 35th Anniversary Edition. I was curious if you've done a dyno on it and if not, could you? The amp seems to be a lot better quality than normal and even has Tiffany style RCA's. Its a very heavy amp and would love to see the results if you wouldn't mind doing it. As always, thanks for the education.
What amplifier should i get for the defbounce Apocalypse Series AP-M67AC 600w. I want to power a pair Also I love that you started using wire ferrules it always bugged me
Hahahahha nice.. me and my wife went to dunnellon high.. in 2007. Dang I miss the kp hole. .. anyways nice amp and good review as always. Might be checking out this brand.
@@timlowe0420 Hi level oem radio to rca input,done these many times never had this thump,well more of a click since the 90s,somebody went cheap on components it seems,not many parts in these Chinese full bridge units.
@@wal I agree but nobody tests on off thumps,because we had this solved years ago in even the cheapest units. Also fan runs 24/7 up here in North Dakota its just plain stupid to not temp control it,especially because the temp feature is on the remote!JMO
@@philipeli1192 JP3 is half bridge. The country of manufacture carries no special importance. Before blaming the amplifier, did you test to find the source of the noise?
@@wal I didn't buy mine brand new but I've had mine for about 5 and 1/2 years and I went and stuck a McMahon alternator on it it's been strong with plenty of power since then also have a digital design 15 600 series love watching your videos and you just turned me on to a new amp because the one I have just quite making the cut LOL and it's a power acoustik from Walmart
Can I mail you my JBL A-1000 ? It’s rated at 600-4ohm, 1,000-2ohm, unknown voltage. Im curious if you could hook it up to a sealed sub or an exact proper matching spec ported sub because I wonder how much cleaner the sound quality will be at 4ohm . I have a kicker L7s 15” dual 4, and im considering buying another amp because they are strapable and 1200 clean watts would be nasty on the L7 im thinking 4 cubic feet net , and a 50 square inch port 22-28 inches long…. I have a 2005 c230 sport Mercedes. No folding rear seats but i have a sawsall hahahaha but seriously I can’t find a test of this amp , I want you to open it up and see what you see and hear what you hear. I’m in Little Rock Arkansas, I wonder how much shipping would be?
The only number I didn't like on the 1000x5 is you peaked the amp pull at 97 amps to alternator/battery. A guy can wish that was 85 amps. That's closer to 70% of "most" alternator capacities. Damn good try tho D4S. Thumbs up from me.
For it to pull that much amperage you'd have to have all five channels wired down really low and then push all five channels to full power. That's never going to happen.
@JasonWW2000 most door speakers are 4 to 6 ohm most subs are dual 2 ohm your already there. And if parallel 2 6x9 and have a super tweeter your at 2.5 or 3 ohm
@JasonWW2000 he did 3 and 4 ohm load tests. Speakers rise and fall in resistance with use. So if you have a 3 ohm Speakers that dip to 2.25 ohm at peak it needs the 97 amps from the alternator. So you're already at the limit. Now if you had some of the 90s stuff that played at 90 or 91 dB sensitivity and was lighter and was set for 6 and 8 ohms. You would only need to run the amp at maybe 45 watts per channel so you only pull about 50 amps at the alternator.
Hey Big d, I have a question for you. If you get to it, thank you in advance. What do you think the maximum sustained temperature for the internals of a JP8? I've been doing research on it, and I really can't find a solid number. My amp is mounted in the trunk where the spare tire would be, it does have fans on it along with the fan that's in it, but in the summertime it gets kind of warm. Again thanks in advance, great video, really enjoy your content 👍
Most of the circuit board components can easily handle over 250° F. I'm thinking the lowest temperature sensitive component might be the large electrolytic capacitors. They should have a temperature rating printed on them. Usually they have a maximum temperature of 80 degrees C which is about 175 °F.
@@JasonWW2000 Thanks for the info! When I see the temperature on the bass knob get to 140° f, I usually turn the volume down a little bit let things cool.
@@Stoneman1971 Do you have a path for fresh air to get to it and for the hot air to get away? Recirculating the air in the trunk should be okay, you just don't want to mount the amp in a small covered area separate from the trunks air.
@@JasonWW2000 Yes, there is some airflow. The answer sitting where the spare tire used to be at. And then I made a new top floor for the trunk which is spaced up around the edges. There's also four 4-in computer style fans blowing on the amplifiers.
@@Stoneman1971Sounds good. Most amps have thermal protection circuits. If it detects the temperature getting too high it will either throttle back the amplifier or turn it off completely. Look and see what your amps have. That a way you'll know what to look out for.
What’s up big D just commenting to give you a new amp to review that says will put out 5200 watts for only 180 bucks!! It’s the vibe power box 5200 check it out I think it would make a great video 👍🏼
