@@jasonlovi8745 considering the amount of stuff I've learned from the Winston and the Carbide 3D gang over the years, I think they get a pass on this one. 😅
I've been handing out Shapeoko-made engraved business cards for ages now. I do a batch of 20-30 every year or so, and give them to execs or accounts I want to really hold onto my card. I either get, "Wow! That's so cool!" or "Wow..... you have a lot of margin in your products don't you...." But I love it! Did the whole project in Fusion360 with Inkscape, and used just some line-art. Then had Fusion360 "fill-in" with passes at 45 degrees and -45 degrees. Putting the GCP logo on my card (for a diagram on the back, we connect w/GCP) was cool since it's 3 colors. I did one color with the entire cross hatch pattern, then did one color with 45 degree etches and the other color with -45 degree etches. Really looks fantastic.
The first thing I used my MC Etcher bits on was my Zippo. Been using Zippos well over 20 years and if you got one that wouldn't light, it could be as simple as the wick needing a slight adjustment. They are proven and have life time warranties.
Happy to hear you put MC to work. I'd love to see what you did on the Zippo. Yes, I did later adjust the lighter. The main problem was the flint wheel wouldn't really turn. After a bit of bending things were restored to working order. It was fun to throw it across the room first. The reactions did prove how much people love Zippo.
I mentioned these type of bits on a Facebook page a while back and knew they'd take off. A company local to me makes sliderobes and have a lot of waste mirror. I don't have a cnc but knew that with a drag bit and the mirror which I could get for free I'd be able to mess around with it whenever I get a machine. With my anxiety and depression though, I keep doubting my abilities and haven't bought one. I know, I need a good kick up the rear end.
I watched these videos and ended up buying a bit. I thought that the noise level would be better because the spindles off. Well, to my surprise, it never occurred to me that drag engraving glass might be louder than the spindle lol. All in all, amazing tool, made my brothers computer case look cool and he loves it.
Hey man you should be engraving in a flood bath WAY quieter and cleaner cuts. Basically just a clamp your stock in a big tub zero it out like normal an fill the tub before you send it.
Ok, you sold me on this bit with the Great Space Coaster and X-Wing fighter. I just finished an engraved project of 30 pieces on lexan with v-carving, and had to deal with gunked up material to clean out. I think this etcher will do much better.
I just watched winston drag video yesterday. It actually game me my idea for my sisters wedding present. Then after some of yours i will have to improve on it with a frame now
You can simply tell the machine it has a 501 PCB Mill and then draw in the infill. Tool 501 PCB / Depth of cut should be set to .06" / Use No Offset / Draw in any vector lines you want for infill. It just takes a bit more drawing to create your infill. Super easy if you are coming over from Inkscape or Illustrator with an SVG. There you can add whatever infill you want via clipping masks.
@@carbide3d Thank you for that, I'll give it a try today. I really think you should have made that clear in the video, either by pointing out that it's a pro feature or how to do it in the free version. It was strongly implied that it was a standard feature of Carbide Create, regardless of version.
Try putting lighter fluid in the zippo. other than that I am trying myself to get into the drag bit I got one I just bought I’m trying to learn the best way to do imaging I’m not a fan of the lines you get it’s almost like a multiple pass on a router I would rather have one line or a fiilled in space then three lines and half a millimeter apart from each other
Hey Raven The 90° tended to be successful on the harder materials. Granite and other stone type applications. We use the 120° more often, but there are times where a second pass is required. Those situations are where the 90° could fair better. Remember there’s no substitute for experience and experimentation. And it’s fun. Run a small design with the 90° directly beside the same design with the 120°, compare the results and then decide what to use for the full project.
@@carbide3d Thanks a lot I just received it from you! I wanted to engrave (matte, semi rough) High Pressure Laminate, any advice on feed and speed and which degree to use? I'm worried I might damage the tip as it will drag pretty rough of a surface.
This is like kismet -- I am working on a design for brass coins I'm going to machine to give to my kids' teachers as a thank you for the crazy year, and I'm going to engrave text on them. I'm using my big, non carbide hybrid servo CNC (I know my nomad is getting sad). I see the recommendation is 0.4mm depth? So recommendation is to use the 120? Any tips on how to do this type of engraving in fusion, I have the design done in fusion, and I was just going to use the trace function for single line fonts, but this etching stuff is really looking cool.
I'd go 120. Far less (to none all) of a burr. Winston used Fusion for his video. Trace is the function. On the computer engraving, I used .127mm DOC / with my zero just touching the surface. This gave me enough spring compression and raised zero burr. You're going to have to test it out. Be sure and post the finished project on the forum. I'm sure people are all for a special teacher gift after this year of mayhem.
How deep can a drag tip produce in yellow brass ? I need a result that does not wear away on a keyring jostling around. Currently, using hand stamps and a hammer. Rotary engraving would be fine if fast enough.
Great video. What kind of tile was before the glass tile? Where did you buy it? I have used Black granite before. I really like the contrast on the tile you showed before the glass tile.
Thanks for the project ideas! Great video. Please tell me you're planing on making the carbide 3d shirt for sale?! (Didn't see on website, did I miss it?)
@@carbide3d I apologize for not explaining further. I understand that the point of the bit is to scratch the surface but when it’s filling in an area, I would like there to be no definitive lines. If I can send a photo of some of my results, you’d know right away what I’m trying to describe. It’s hard to put into words. 😅
hi, I have carbide create free for a year version, running on a windows PC, but I don`t see the engrave toolpath feature, do I need to upgrade for this feature, many thanks for your excellent video`s.
Chris. If you look in the tool library under “Carbide3D-Any-Any” and then “Endmills” you’ll find both MC Etchers pre-entered. You can create your own new “Library” and copy the MC Etcher bits into that library. Over at My.Carbide3D.com inside the “Create Basics” Unit, you’ll find video #11 “Tool Libraries + Tooling”. That may be of help to you.
I've been enjoying (and learning from) your content, and if you're up for a request, I suspect I am not alone in wanting to know how to use a CnC to score and cut custom cardboard inserts for packaging. As someone starting a business with several new products in different sizes, the ability to create custom cardboard trays and inserts for my shipping and retail boxes would be tremendously useful. This is one of the more interesting videos I've found on the subject... and I bet Carbide 3D could knock this out of the park: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yBv6SBz82gE.html
