BRAVO!!! 👏🏾😁 excellent video! This is the exact data I needed, and your car hauls the mail! I've only used drag radials, and that's why I have ET Street Rs. My biggest question was the tire height, and clearly, the extra roll-out of the 28" radials works! I noticed your tire wall wrinkle on one run. What tire psi were you running? Also, what is your launch technique? It sounded like you tightened the driveline at a low rpm and then flashed the converter? One more question: What are you using to record your videos inside the car? I need to come to Mason Dixon!
Thanks man. I was running 16 psi in the radials and 18 in the slicks. When I launch I footbrake to 1500 rpm then floor it on the last yellow. My converter flashes hardest that way. It flashes to about 4200 rpm. Im just using my iPhone 10. It films in 4k. It’s a fast track. If you ever come down, let me know and we’ll go racing.
@Duster Garage Next time you're out on the radials, start at a higher psi. Like around 21-22psi or the highest psi, you can hook at. Higher psi will help you mph on the big end. Radials have stiff sidewalls, and if they're wrinkling, your psi is too low. I know that sounds counterintuitive, but those wrinkles are wasting forward energy. Love the channel bruh!
I was gonna suggest that you had the slicks too hard. With 10.5/28 m/t I run 12-15lbs. I will agree, run the tires as hard as you can where they hook. That point depends a lot on the car.
@@notinterested8397 lower air pressure in the slicks may have helped traction that day. But I had experimented with air pressure in the past and higher pressure had produced better 60’ times with those particular slicks.
I had very similar results. But love that stability down track with the drag radial. I need to try my slicks again next time because there’s more meat on the ground versus my pro bracket radial. Definitely consider the PBR if you have to buy some more. Great video brother!
Another set of radials are definitely in my future. I was considering the MT Pro or R. But I really like the S/S because of it’s street driving manors.
Radials hitting good for you most likely because of the anti squat you have. Radials love that, nice separation in the rear during launch. Excellent video and love the car bro!
Love your car! I had a '71 440 Duster I used to race in the late '70's & early '80's. I really regret getting rid of that car; bought it as a slant 6 while in high school. Racing a '22 Dodge Challenger 1320 now, true single seater. Mopar or No car!
Chris W nailed it. It depends on your track prep. If you run race days, and the track prep is good, drag radials will hook, and be faster. If you are running test and tiune nights for fun, with other cars running basically street tires, slicks will be a better choice. I have always run slicks, mickeys or hoosiers, but i have a big tire car set up to run big hoosier quick time pro, and also 315 mickey et etreet radial pros for small tire events. Run as much tire pressure as you can that will still hook. Radials are faster because of the stiffer sidewalls, and higher pressure, IF they hook.😂
I had a Really strong Camaro w/ 6 speed, and when I finally put on some MT Street radials it was like night and day..... They were so badass. Anyway Nice videos, bad ass cars and a great day at the track, lot of cool cars it looked like
We've just got our car together and have been running Hoosier slicks. We now have Mickey ET Street Drag Radials on it and will be going to the track soon to see how they do on our GTO.
You’re car is awesome! Apparently your suspension set up likes 9:25 a set worn out mickey thompsons. Lol. I’ve tryin to figure out what I want to use. I’ll be using cal-tracs but I’m also gonna start with drag radials as well. Good video brother.
It’s all in track prep. Good prep, drag radials will ALWAYS be faster…but marginally prepped Test & Tune or the street, slicks are the WAY better option since they are more forgiving AND will recover well. When a radial spins they keep spinning👌🏼
thought about relocating down that way .retired with a 74 cuda that ive had for 45 years. good areas down there? like to be within 50 miles of a track.@@Duster_Garage
I would think that what is better depends on track conditions and combos of the car. On good tracks that hook radials are always faster. If the track you normally go to is prepped or your car hooks up well there with radials go use those.
Ok, right at the end you told the story that I knew had to be coming. Both sets were worn out. A worn out old slick is SO MUCH harder than a new slick. The heat cycles harden the rubber. The first pass or two on slicks will be slower than the next ones out to about 35 or so passes, then they will start to fall off/slow down. The heat cycles change the drag radials as well but they last a bit longer, because there is just that much more thickness to start with. They start to fall off after say 45-50 passes, depending on how much street use and how long of a burnout you do. Fresh slicks, that car will go 1.46 60ft and around 7.25 1/8th. Your reaction time can be brought down by bringing front tire pressure to 40 psi, and almost turning off the pre stage light, you will have to play with rear pressure, say 10.5 to 14 psi. As you know, if you are spinning, try bringing your launch rpm, before you let off the brake and nail it, up. That way you are actually shocking the tires less, when you leave. If you sit there at 2500 and then nail it, with a 4000 converter, the motor will jump up to 4000 before hitting the tires and break them loose. It's kind of counter intuitive.
Ive run both, also full time on the street For the strip you cant beat a slick!! Make sure and measure the circumference, they can vary. Can make your car go straight or put you in a wall. THe taller they are the more crucial it is
Thanks! I footbrake to 1600 rpm. Then slab the pedal on the third yellow. The converter flashes the hardest that way. I’ve tried higher rpm but it doesn’t leave as hard.
On the Drag Slicks it sounds like the rpm's are dipping down (slight bog) immediately after launch and then hanging there a little too long working their way back up. From your comments about the slick PSI if you want to continue using drag slicks I'd suggest trying to find a stiffer sidewall version. On ET Streets the RPM's don't sound like they are bogging down immediately after launch but it sounds like it's hanging at launch RPM a bit too long, fighting to gain RPM. Perhaps run more PSI in the ET Streets to help reduce sidewall flex and reduce rolling resistance. Because it sounds like the RPM's are hanging a bit too long at launch RPM with both drag slicks and ET Streets it almost sounds like you need a little more converter, perhaps a touch more gear to help get the RPM's up over that initial stagnant bit. Pure speculation as every combination is it's own beast.
Thank you, that is some good advice. A few other people also suggested running more psi in the ET streets. I’m going to the strip again this weekend and will definitely be trying more air in the rear tires. Hopefully with positive results.
It is actually an off the shelf TCI street fighter. It is a 10” and was originally rated at 3000-3400 rpm stall. It has loosened up considerably, flashes to 4200 rpm. I bought it from Summit racing in 2007 and have never had it out. I guess I got lucky.
@@Duster_Garagesuper stock springs with a snubber always works great. I ran a couple Fords with Mopar springs and a snubber. I just built the snubber to come down from the floor instead of bolting on the rear end.
@@Duster_Garage I know you did!! That's what you are supposed to do. I am saying even on the brakes you took a lot of stripe. It's okay though. I'm the type to dial 3 or 4 up and whomp or dump off
I ran hoosier quick time pro. Best tires ever! I ran 28 by 10 1/2 by 15...Just so you know, i am not a joe idiot. I was points champ at dixon in 02, 06 in street plus made bracket finals in heavy/ footbrake a bit. You ever need advice, help or whatever please ask. I will answer any question
@@Duster_Garage No sir it isn't. In fact, if you gave me a choice of a weapon between your white car or yellow car, I would take your white car for 2 reasons. First I always ran 12s or 13s in my championship years. Plus on a regular day, your white car could run street and footbrake therefore a chance to take away alot more money
@@Duster_Garage So your front tires are a footbrakers delay box my friend. So say you are running 35 pounds in your front tires and going .80 on the tree. Jack your fronts up to 40 pounds and take one extra bump in the beams. Brother I'm not talking falsehood when I tell you I could dominate in your white car. Your tree would go down to.30...Also you could deep stage the white car. I notice you beat the piss outta the tree in the yellow car. I know the white car could be a secret weapon
