You dont have to drive around you could lift up the truck's front wheel and turn the steering wheel left and right until you see the new fluid come out.
@_novaya_republic_ if you concerned about stress on the rack or wear on the tires, you can use 2 vinyl flooring tiles stacked on top of each other, under each tire. Two tiles, shiny side facing each other so the friction is low.
Easier way to do this! Jack up front wheels disconnect return line to reservoir cap off. With vehicle off rotate wheels back and forth fluid will come out of return line run it to a drain pan. Keep the reservoir topped off till fluid comes out clean. Reattach line to reservoir. Awesome that you're doing maintenance on your Toyota!!
All that hassle is the reason that I just pop the return line off the reservoir and stick it in a bucket. Plug off the port on the reservoir, and dump fluid while an assistant starts the engine and turns the wheels. So much faster.
@@mrDmastr19 I usually use a little rubber cap that came on a new set of transmission lines or something, but you can just as easily use a piece of fuel hose with a bolt stuck in it.
A Motive Fluid extractor will be your best friend. Totally worth the investment. I do the same that you did with PS, but also with the brake fluid reservoir, at short intervals… like 15-25k miles, etc. its so easy, just never letting the fluid get a chance to get dirty or old. If you have an ATF dipstick you can also do this as well… Motive’s tubes will slide in just fine. Keep up the great work!👍
Chloe This Channel is a gem 💎 i love learning more about trucks 🛻 on this channel you give good information. you’re one of my favorites RU-vidrs to watch keep up the good work and content
You should get a fluid extractor from like harbor freight or something it's like a vacuum pump but it has a hose or a tube that you use that to suck the fluid out with those work pretty great for something like that
If you turn the wheel all the way in either direction while you suck the old fluid out while simultaneously filling the reservoir to maintain proper level, you could have achieved better results. Worth a try next time. Also, that’s a bummer your new tool didn’t fit as expected. Audi Tech here, can’t express how often I’ve purchased tools from the tool truck only to not have it work as needed lol
I didn’t think anyone else did that. I use iv extension tubing and a 60ml syringe. Takes longer than your big bore tube but it really gets down in there…
When i do it this way after i run the 1st siphon I'll do a power steering cleaner then then turm the wheel all the way over tapping the limit on each side. Then i repeat that one more rime and start putting normal fluid in till clean
Just do this procedure with short intervals and the substance will definitely change its color to lighter one. It does takes time for the p/ fluid. It is notorious to stay this way.
A simpler way is to use a empty 1-5gal plastic gas can and a shop vac. Use suction tube that goes to bottom of can with any loose seal method, then create a negative pressure in the can with shop vac. There are alot of variations on this with whatever you have in your garage.
And it’s pretty much the same concept with ATF (automatic transmission fluid). If you’re not flushing the ATF (and I’d advise against flushing if your vehicle has more than 50,000 miles on it), then draining and filling your ATF will require some driving around in-between changes. I’ve read online you’d need to drain and fill your ATF at least 5 times, maybe 6, before the color has gotten closer to red again.
This is the safest method, but a royal pain! If every year you drain, refill, move steering wheel (and then repeat once more), your fluid should be almost entirely refreshed every 5 years or so
@@JAMESWUERTELE Disagree. We haven’t seen this in our shop. We perform this service every 30-35,000 miles with no leaks in the pump or rack/pinion units. We only use this vehicles that are non Honda or European specific fluids.
If that hole the cap goes into doesn’t need to be sealed all the way (which it probably does) I guess you could’ve drilled up that hole a lil bigger to use your better siphon 😂
Super syphon would not work in that case anyway - not enough shaking space and too small of a reservoir. You are best getting a 250 ml syringe for this and adding the vinyl tube at the end. It perfect for this (or brake fluid) and I use it all the time on my Toyota Also run the car while you do it for the pump is circulate fluid all the time. Just don’t remove too much fluid before refilling. System does not hold a lot anyway so 2-3 quarts will work plenty for this job.
Much faster to pull the return hose, have it empty into a see through jug, while pouring fresh into the reservoir. I had water get into my ford minivan years ago and this method flushed out the water and dirty original fluid.
You are correct but you also must turn the wheel lock to lock too. If not the fluid will sit stagnant in the rack, same goes for a similar job on the tranny, need to cycle through the gears.
@@briankissel7661 Yes I had to rotate the wheel sharp left and right several times to get everything out. After we finished you would think it's like brand new and working perfectly. Took at least 2 liters of new going in to wash the system out. Half of a 4L jug full /"half a gallon"
@@RetroCaptain cool beans brother. Just trying to share. I really don't know why I try to help these you tube idiots, it's the father in me I guess. You seem well sorted so I'm sorry if I was curt or rude
@@briankissel7661 I also see (& hear) more misinformation than accurate information in many subjects over the years even before the explosion of social media. Now it's "roughly fifty fifty" I find. Sometimes by accident I've found that you can contravene handbook data and get away with it. Obviously to promote it as a rule is asking for problems and this is what I found often.
Just get a cheap $15 vacuum pump? Just keep it very clean and don’t let any fluid flow into the vacuum pump. It’ll last yah a while. But any kinda fluid gets on it the paint peels off, any fluid miraculously gets in it, the pump fails.
I have that same chassis (4runner) but I have the 2uz motor. That car went 300000 miles with the original fluid and only blew up the pump when I was full lock sliding in the snow a couple years back. I dont worry about my power steering fluid lol.
Why don’t you just bleed one caliper at a time? Fill bleed fill bleed. Easier imo but need an extra hand and you get rid of the fluid instead of re using fluid
Good mechanic tip: Get a hose and stick one end in the container you wish to drain. Then get an air pump with the lever to release squirts of air. Then jab it through the other end of the hose. Press the air trigger and watch the hose create a vacuum.
I think it’s great that you’re learning how to do maintenance work on your vehicle, now, with that said, it would be far easier just to pull one of the lines off the pump. You get more of a full drain than just taking what’s in the reservoir., and then repeating every 15 minutes when you get back from your drive
So just pure ignorance lol you shouldnt be patting yourself on the back for that bobby , if you cant take care of car we wonder what else you cant take care of lol
