Dream racing road bike build for normal people based on Chinese carbon SP053V frame and Shimano 105 

Thank you Mickael, such comments really motivates me to keep working on such videos ;-)

I think he was being sarcastic my friend

No I am not, thanks for making build video for normal people that can't afford to put 3K on a bike

Yes, this is dream build of the people, with that 'groupset of people'

Thank you Jan, I really appreciate it! Indeed, small things makes a difference ;-)

Thanks for sharing this! It took me an additional 12-16 hours to make the video, as I am not sponsored, nor have I any profits from RU-vid, I am unable to invest more of my time to create a complete tutorial. Hope this gives a good overall feel and procedure for your build. Good luck!

I really appreciate it and happy it was helpful!

Gracias Alfredo por tus amables palabras, ¡realmente lo aprecio!

Yeap, let's hope so!

Happy to hear it and thanks for sharing!

Thank you!

Thanks for the comment and good luck with your build!

Thank you very much and really appreciate your comment!

#savetherimbreak ;-)))

Thank you ;-)

Gracias y suerte con el proyecto!

Thank you Tomas! The watch just like the bike is 100% mechanical. It is Seiko 5 Sports ;-)

Thanks! In carbon assembly I typically use Shimano antiseize as it is actually a better and safe montage paste and for BB I used ceramic anti creak grease because in this frame it was made bit to loose.

Thanks. To be honest I did not face any issues with this element of the frame and did not have any problems with guiding the cable - in my opinion this bend was pretty typical. Also did not noticed any negative impact after full assembly. I was more skeptical to the aluminium end-cap element that was used for the rear break cable exit - it could be machined batter, as it was really tricky to assemble it without any play (probably over time it can require adjusting) - or maybe the hole in the carbon was too big in the frame I got...

Thanks! I would love to watch your work, please share if you would create any such content.

Thank you! These pads are leftovers from another gel bar tape - I always put some of it on top of hoods to make it more comfortable.

Dzięki! W MTB większego sensu to nie ma, zresztą z uwagi na system tubless i mleczko nie jest to taka oczywista sprawa jak na szytce/dętce. W MTB liczy się przyspieszenie i przyczepność, sprinty są dużo mniej istotne, ale grubość opony i amortyzacja niwelują efekt więc nie zawracałym sobie głowy.

Generalnie wyważenie koła jest bardzo ważne - im więkza średnica i prędkośc obrotowa tym bardziej. Rzeczywiście fajna metoda właśnie się zastanawiałem jak to "ugryźć". Oczywiście przy mleczku nie bardzo to ma sens ale ja nawet w MTB uzywam dętek.

Thank you Dave. Yes, this is called wheel balancing (static balancing to be precise as there is also dynamic balancing), this is one of the way to do it - the heaviest part of the wheel is pulled down by the gravity so the opposing side is the place to put additional weight to make it even. The same is done to a car wheels when you change the tires, just calculated by computer.

@@custombikefactory thx man! Learned three great things from this vid - tape the smooth latex tube stem, clean the alloy burrs in the headset rings so internal routing isn’t compromised, and this! Highly appreciated! I like the pace and editing also. Very chill.

I am very, very happy to hear this! Thank you for sharing this ;-)

Thanks, these are 25mm, but on the wide rim, they were 26.5mm. Frame can handle up to 32.

@@custombikefactory thanks for answering! wow they look much wider on camera. also didnt know of rim brakes with such tire clearance! especially available brand new. do you know of any other ? most are 28 only.

@@FedericoHazama nowadays, almost all new road bikes with disc breaks allow up to 30 or even 32mm, it is a trend. On one of my videos you can check how I customized an older rim break road bike to fit 32mm tires.

I'm 189cm and I usually ride 58cm bikes, often called XL or L. I'd start with the frame and check what type of bb it needs, what the cable routing looks like and what type of brake mounts it has, like direct mount rim brakes or disc brake mounts etc. Crank length should be 175 at your hight and I'd also go for around 100mm of stem length and choose you handlebars as wide as your shoulders are prob. around 42-44cm but not too wide

@@j.k.b5014 Thanks.

This is ceramic, high quality grease, that has additional anti creak and water repellent properties. I used it because the quality of the BB (you pay for what you get) was not ideal and it was not a perfect hole - actually bit to loose so it is important to seal any space where water can penetrate. This would end app in creaking and hopefully it will fix this frame issue.

With pleasure, just send me such frameset ;-)

Thanks for a honest review. Sometimes the components which end up on the bike are because of a great price or personal decision of the rider - in this case both reasons were the reason for these wheels ;-).

Thank you. It is not mine, but the owner is very happy (he use it for training and amateur racing) and already did a wheel set upgrade. So far there is no issue with the frameset, no BB creaks or seatpost issues.

Either you would use a narrow hex key or replace the hex bolt with a flat one

I am not the owner, but I can say it is safe and no issues so far has been reported. No creaks from BB, no issues with cables, headset required tensioning, but it is normal. So far so good.

We all like to have a sporty look on photos but ride with relaxed mode just like you wrote. This is pre fitting setup and I had just a few requests from the rider. He indeed dropped the seatpost ;-)

Standard Shimano BB will never spin freely as it uses heavy duty, double sealed bearings on thick grease. For the record, even Hambini himself says that crank "spin tests" are not a good indication of BB/crank quality. If rider is not a pro or have no issues with frame BB execution, (or is not extreme engineering enthusiast), there is little sense to invest in Hambini product (which are one of the best on the market).

Because the BB hole was not ideal, I used carbon neutral ceramic grease that repels water and reduces potential creaks.

Because the rims have diffrient design and shape, I ususale make them from various metal elements. You can also use fishing weights for this purpose. Just remember that it cannot have sharp edges and be as flat as possible.

Thank you! Yes, he is very happy about the bike and actually just managed to do his first race on it, no issues so far.

Great to know thanks. From my extensive geeking on the topic, including specialized forums and what not, SP cycles seems to make quality stuff. Haven't tried them myself.

On bolts blue locktite, on rest assembly/antisieze

Ogólnie OK, choć są niedoskonałości i w tym budżecie cudów nie będzie. Otwór na support jest chyba najsłabszym elementem (trochę luźny i nie jest idealnie okrągły), ale póki co wszystko działa, nic nie hałasuje. Niedopracowana jest wylotka do przerzutki tylnej, trzeba sobie ją poprawić i do hamulca tylnego (model pod tradycyjne szczeki), malowanie przeciętne, ale poza tym rama sprawia wrażenie mocnej i nie bałbym się na tym jeździć. Trzeba pamiętać, przy takich ramach, że kupujesz kota w worku, choć uczciwie muszę przyznać, że obsługa posprzedażowa bardzo się poprawia i często zawstydza zachodnie marki więc jakaś szansa na gwarancje jest. powodzenia z projektem!

I got it from a customer so I cannot share any link, hope your build want all good!

You will find all the parts on Chinese portals, but read closely if the set will support your frame (diameters of steerer and frame holes).

Dzięki za merytoryczny komentarz. Przelotke zrobiłem w taki sposób, żeby końcowy kawałek pancerza był jednak osobno przez co można go łatwo wymienić gdyby się uszkodził bez potrzeby wybebeszania roweru. Co do smaru to antisize to tak naprawde smar montażowy z dodatkową odpornością na ściskanie i wysokie temperatury, nie zawiera litu więc jest bezpieczny dla karbonu, producent podaje że jest też bezpieczny dla gumy i ma właściwości zapobiegające korozji galwanicznej (karbon-metal). Od wielu lat go stosuje i świetnie wypiera też wodę więc myślę że do sterów świetnie się nada. Ten smar ma też moim zdaniem świetny stosunek cena jakość. Daj znać co sam stosujesz na stery? No i z folią to pełna zgoda. Kiedy zdarza mi się oklejać folią całą ramę robie to właśnie w taki sposób, tutaj przyklajałem jedynie gruby kawałek ochronny przed łańcuchem. Ramy w takim satynowym macie są trudne do oklejania i często ostateczny rezultat nie prezentuje się najlepiej. pozdrawiam serdecznie!

@@custombikefactory jako pastę montażowa używam motorex white grease, fajny gęsty ewentualnie park toola ppl1. Do łożysk motorex 2000. Wszystkie wymienione są bezpieczne dla karbonu.

This really depends on a loooot of stuff, very hard to tell, there is also quite some additional work needed to be done apart of pure technical assembly. A skilled mechanic with a good workshop will do it in approx 3-6 hours, so multiply it by a hourly rate and you have some idea of the cost. Often such service might be done as a bonus when you buy parts etc.

It is a normal two side sticker from 3M

This is not really a well known brand or frame here. Also the producer changes the models a lot. It is one of the cheapest carbon frames that you can get from China so be aware, that it cannot be perfect. The biggest drawback of this frame is poor BB quality - in my case, pressfit was too loose and not a perfect circle. The paint job is also moderate quality and the weight could be better for a rim brake version - but from the other side frame feels strong and safe to ride. In all - you get what you pay for (maybe a little more than you pay for). Hope this helps you - but bear in mind that I only had chance to work with 2 frames of this producer.

It was bought by the owner (not me) on one of the most popular China based online markets

Could be worse, but indeed it requires some patience ;-)

Not sure if I understod you correctly, but if you mean a website link to buy the frame - than I cannot, as I got it from a customer and do not know the source.

Well, as far as I am concerned, I think it is safe to say that you pay for what you get. If a brand wants to keep quality they wont be able to sell a frameset under 500-600 USD. So if you are buying for as low as that do expect less quality - for example not ideal BB hole, poor painting, many voids in the carbon layout or other issues, some of them are not big deal, but others can be a pain to properly build or do maintenance of the bike in the longer run. If a brand won't sell cheap, it is an indicator they put more effort and a good quality should be expected.

Because it is affordable. Not sure what you mean by FR?

@@custombikefactory I mean front deraileur.

@@and_yunusov It is a small aluminum plate that protects the carbon frame in case the front derailleur would hit it

I do not want to recommend any seller or source, but you can easily find it on the biggest and well known Chinese marketplace site ;-)

I built onto the same frame .... literally the same bike build ... it is wonderful..... did the frame shop name start with a T ? Also I had to get a different c shape thing (the default is black and sits on the top headset bearing) for the headset as it had some play and after that it was solid. Overall really happy, how is yours going ?

@@FreddeeLewis This is my customers frame and parts and I did not purchace it so I do not know from what seller exactly is it nor I can tell how the bike rides because I do not own it. However I think it should perform very well. I did not experience any play with the headset - only the issue with sharp edges that I modified to have smoother surface for better cable management - documented in the video. Thank you for sharing your experience with the frame!

Haha, fair point and love your comment ;-). Price-wise this frame is on same level as well known brands aluminum products (though quality is a different topic) so in this sense it is affordable for a serious bike enthusiast. Thanks for your comment!

@@custombikefactory 😁✌✌✌ I do really love watching build bike videos, and my dream bike is an aero roadbike with alloy frame. I watch bike repair and restoration videos as well. I'm just frustrated with the fact how bikes can be very expensive.

@@efrenacabado1109 Me too my friend... hope to get my hands on some aero/TT bike some day tough ;-)

It is definitely not a common practice ;-). I used a thick, thermal resistant, transparent tape. It is commonly used on cars so you can look for it in detailing shops and it comes in a lot of colors too. Choose the thickest one to protect such spots.

@@custombikefactory Oooh, I believe those are called PPFs? The ones that essentially self repair upon heat

Majority of the carbon parts comes indeed from China/Taiwan. There are however some carbon factories in other countries and not only small manufactures but also major brands.