Drill Sharpener Mk1 (fail) 

You can appreciate a talented machinist at work...

Very neat idea, and oh so close to working flawlessly. I for one would be happy for more episodes even on a 'failed' project - your quality explanation of your often improper, corner cutting, machining methods and decision making process I find quite informative. You sometimes do things in ways I wouldn't, quite possibly wouldn't even consider and that alternative perspective can be great to have in your head.

Very good,Paul. I'm really looking forward to the final sorted version. I agree with your thinking of setting the drill once in a collet or chuck rather than buggering about with devices that require the drill be rotated and reset 180°.

Wow, what a great mechanism. I appreciate that you showed much of the layout especially. I can’t wait to see mk2. That’s some really cool work you did here.

i enjoyed seeing the line boring set up, quite amazing what can be done with simple machinery and some time invested

Ide pembuatan alat asah mata bor...bagus.. Anda jenius sekali pak.. The idea of ​​making a drill bit sharpener...good.. You are a genius sir..

Hi Paul, I have been looking forward to this and it will be good to see the next stage and how you overcome the current issues. I like your solution for cutting the curved slot on the base pale and have noted it for future projects. I also liked the demonstration of the usefulness odd leg callipers.

Thnx for letting us learn from your mistakes. I sharpen most drills by hand and check them with a hand tool drill checker. That way I can make small adjustments for when I want to cut brass or stainless etc.

see, there's your problem right there! Making proper plans! nothing ever comes good from that! What you make has to look like the plans! You cant just claim what you end up with was what your were planning all along! :)

Keep at it Paul , no invention ever worked first time !

interesting video i really enjoyed it. it's the hard fought battles that we remember as well as the ones that make us great. keep thinking and trying, i am sure you will succeed and i will enjoy watching. thanks for sharing.

Very interesting and educational. I'm also looking forward to the Mk2 video.

Valiant effort. Hope you learned enough to come back to it loaded for bear. As an aside. I started using a cheap AliBaba Mister with synthetic fluid. Air pressure is about 35-40 psi and I tweak down on the lfuid feed so that it barely mists. Quality of Cut improved dramatically. I'm no longer recutting chips. And I can increase speeds and feeds dramatically too.

its mesmerizing and fascinating to watch the processes. Some of those setups where AMAZING!!!!!

I think you need to tilt the whole assembly approximately 30° so the swivel motion is not "up and down" but more diagonally, like the swivel motion of your old drill sharpener. That ensures that it grinds the relief angle on the outer diameter of the drill, but not so much on the center of the drill. Of course you need to offset the "advance and retract cam" by the same angle to keep it in the same position as before.

Hello Paul, Nice work as always... I am looking forward to watching the production of version two. Take care. Paul,,

Very impressive build Paul and an enjoyable watch.

Simple isn't the easy... Very good Job!!

Hello from Aus. The chisel edge angle is controlled by the amount of clearance ground on the drill. I would reduce the drill stick out from the collet and reduce the edge height above center of the wheel. The correct andge is about 15 deg from perpendicular. BC

Having used a Brierly, i can see what you are trying to do :-) Im sure Mkii will be a winner !

Thanks for sharing your journey. Looking forward to the next iteration!

Excellent tool, congratulations.

delightful to watch as always. Thanks for all your videos!

You've got my respect

@31:15 The rotation "zero" set point should be before the wheel contact the cutting lip. The cam low point should coincide a few degrees before touching the cutting lip. Then as the cam cause the drill bit to extend, it will grind the flank.

It appears that the drill should cam up and not rotate till you complete the first clearance angle, and then rotate as it cams back for the second clearance angle. The first clearance angle should only be as wide as the web. It sometimes appears that the device is trying to do this action backwards, or it may be my dislexic view of things. Who knows. An interesting approach to the natural hand grinding process. It has me buggered how a factory automates this action reliably. Very good device, looking forward to Mk.II and your solutions. Take care.

That was cleverly done. The Drill-Doctor works on the same mechanics, but, I gotta say, I like your steel version 100 times better. Your next version I am sure, you will have the cam's dialed in for your exacting desired features.. well done. I look forwards to the next design.

High, it's a real pleasure to watch. But the best thing is the contraption. I'm excited. LG Peter

That's an interesting drill sharpening jig. The only thing that that's put me off making one is the fact that it needs an expensive collet to fit every drill size. There's also the small but not unsurmountable problem of the excessive web thickness which I'm sure could be corrected with a few tweaks to the geometry. Inspiring bit of kit though, and very quick to use because of not having to re-set the drill bit. Thank you.

I have an old ARCHDALE DRILL GRINDER which is very similar to the American 510 Oliver Drill Grinder. They have a very unique way of sharpening the drill. I'll have to post a vid on my channel of it running.

nice try , amazed by design and mechanism

Hi Paul, I think you've done a brilliant job so far. Just remember that stuff in a spray can - It's not called WD-01. For the next time, could you explain more how you came up with the cam please? I was playing around with some graph paper, simulating the advance and rotation across the graph as if you peel a layer off & roll it across the page. But it needed a sideways kick for the point before settling back to a constant drop back down. Stay safe & well :)

EXCEPCIONAL SALUDOS MAESTRO

Jesteś Artystą ale Wielkim dziękuję za naukę

First off, I'd really liked your machine capabilites. Your speeds/feeds and tool choices used are good 👍. What country, where are you located? I'm in the USA. I've worked in the machinery field. I'm in the process to make a Lathe purchase soon. With the idea and hopeful to do hobby projects.

Paul, I've made the exact same radius jig with a bit of thread bar. And can confirm it works. Another suggestion from Dai Robinson

Nice job, hopefully the next version will work

Wow your skills are great 👍👍

The opposite cams should also be checked for the same height. Otherwise, only one flute will be cutting.

Am I recognizing it good? Is it sharpener based on Oliver of Adrian drill sharpening method. It is very interesting method. I wouldn't abandon this project. This sharpener almost works. It seems like the drill is moving in bit wrong way.

thanks for that, interesting as always

Used a drillsharpner that work after the same prinsiple, your problem lays in the profile on the cam. Mutch steeper climbe on the one I used and when the egde on the drillbit was cear the grinding wheel the cam just had a straight drop, the lobe had more the profile of a thoth on a sawblade

Wonderful video! I'm just curious if you tried other drill bits,and did you have the same results. I wonder if you could cut a relief on the flutes would the fixture work, never the less it appears to sharpen quite well. Thanks for sharing.

Awesome project! Thanks for sharing. :o)

You are nearly there! I used a drill sharpener probably 40 years ago, and I wish I had taken more notice. I think your face cam needs retract the drill more quickly. You really need to form the cam by dividing head or rotary table by cutting axial cuts to known depths, so that the cutting edge is located accurately in the same place on both sides of the drill. I look forward to Version2!

Excelente trabajo y muy útil en el taller no hablo inglés no podrá poner subtítulos en español

You almost had it, in fact you were right there, it just needed the finishing touch of web thinning to make it work ....nothing else........I hand grind all my drills, even the .5mm ones but for that I use a Wishbone type drill sharpener and anything under 4mm diam. I think you might have more luck with 4 facet drill grinding as there are only 4 flats to grind and they can be ground in a fixture or even something exotic like a Deckel SO D bit grinder.

That grind looks like something you can get ftom any number of grinders when things go wrong. Playing with the starting angle and drill projection might show the way to go. There is a book by Prof Hugel that goes into incredible detail about conic grind etc but it is a touch dry for me as the characterisations is little flat.😕 Edit, the height of your device relative to the wheel centre height is another consideration, as might be the small grinding wheel you are using. As the yanks would put it, just spitballing the problem.😉

Fail? No, Mk1 👍

very nice job who makes there gr

Hey would you be willing to sell 1 of this?

How do you know unless you try!! Nice video👍

Wow. Complex machine. Perhaps try out a concept 1st - it the simple way - before making a professional tool. At least you know the concepts works and probably it is good enough as well. I made a drill sharpener for my 0.3 - 3 mm drills as these tend to go dull very quickly somehow. Found out one can make a 4 facet on a 0.5 mm and 1 mm drill as well. But it's a b**ch to align everything as the edges on these small drills are not as clearly defined as with the bigger drills and one needs magnifiers to see anything at all. The tool I created is just an add-on to a dremel and with a 1000-1500 grid sand paper disk (normal dremel grinding disk is just too rough for these sizes of drills) and a simple holder to keep the drills positioned. A lot of work to make, but just with standard tools. But after sharpening... they cut like hell, even through steel - for as long as they stay sharp that is, cutting through iron is really tough for these small sized drills.

для механизм👍но сверло неочен острий вишло режуший кромка не очен хорош

No apprezzato molto il video ma è difficile da fare quello strumento li.

Nice exercise! Love the way how you made that cam by hand. Your web came out too thick...wrong (axial) clamping angle maybe? I have a Drill-Doctor that was left in a corner of the company workshop together with with numerous dull drill-bits, because "it dit not work". The Drill-Doctor basically makes the same motion as your device, but if the drill is not clamped with the cutting edge at the suggested angle, the web will not come out right. After a bit of tweaking, I now have a lot of perfect cutting drills in sizes that the local hardware-store does not stock. A very simple device to sharpen drills properly is depicted here: www.modelbouwforum.nl/threads/boren.265416/page-2 Used with a cup-wheel it allows one to make a geometrically proper grind. Drawback is that you have to reposition the drill halfway the process, which is difficult for small diameter drills. Above 6 mm it works fine.

Hi Paul. Wow! An impressive design, amount of work and attention to detail in that project. Credit to you. I'm absolutely certain that you will solve the issue and end up with a fabulously useful piece of kit. Regards Mark in the UK

This is really complicated. Please check out the Black Diamond drill grinder. It also grind a conical flank. It's much much simpler.

The arc cutting fixture was great. I may have too use that idea.

Wish you show us the flank angle.

still better than doing it by hand I think

I love your work and hope you will produce many videos in 2022. Especially the middle 2 drill grinding jig. Cheers Paul. Mike