DIY: You don't need an expensive hammer drill and core bit to drill a large hole through cinder block. I used a Ryobi Drill and a Spyder brand hole saw bit.
Great Video! I bought the $59 drill, a 4” x 1/8 Spyder bit for $26 and went to work. First cut through one side and stuck the drill in the whole and drilled out the other side. After the job was done, I realized that I never set the drill to hammer mode but the process still worked like a charm. Each cut took around 3 minutes. The rental at Home Depot would’ve cost $167. And with your method, I get to keep the drill. Thanks.
Thank you for this tip! I'm just about to enlarge my dryer vent hole up from the original 3" diameter. I was wondering if I should up to 4", 4 ¼", or 4 ½".
I have watched several different Video presentations for tackling this project. Far and away you give what I consider to be the most economically and skill acumen feasible. Great Job VERY much appreciated!
Prefect example of the problem with “right tool for the job syndrome”. Just because it’s not what a pro would use doesn’t mean it can’t get the job done. Did it take longer, yes, but not as long as renting and returning an SDS. Could you cut 50 a day with that setup no, but when you only need one, it gets the job done and no additional cost. Now of that was a poured foundation, probably a different story. but it wasn’t and the tool worked great.
Fantastic. I assume a diamond coring bit would have been enven better, smoother. Also, diamond core bits are used without "hammering." This is the best video I have seen on this matter. Excellent.
Your cinder block wall has huge holes in the middle making the 4" bit forgiving. For a run of that length through solid concrete you're going to need a larger hole.
I thought you might come up a little short if you did not allow for the thickness of the end of the block when you measured the 4”. Glad it worked out for you. As someone who has worked in several appliances, I will say straight smooth metal vent would have been better to run to that outlet. I am about to do a similar job through brick. I might check out a mason art hole saw rather than drilling holes around the circumference of the pipe and chipping out with a cold chisel and taking a chance of breaking the brick.
Thanks for watching. Allowing for the thickness of the block is tricky, b/c blocks are different thicknesses depending on manufacture and year. In may case I was dealing with blocks made in the late 1970’s. 4” is a good average, and then hope you hit the center. In my case it worked out.
Nice job!! I need to drill a 6 inch hole for a wood stove exhaust pipe ..And all I have is a 3/4" concrete bit to drill relief holes all the way around the circumference , then ill hammer it out and do the outside the same way ...itll take some doin for sure ..wish I had ur spyder hole saw kit right now ..lol
Looks good. Was just curious if i should tackle a similar wall(built in the late 70s as well) to move the dryer vent using my Milwaukee hammer drill, gonna say it will handle it just fine after watching this.
Update on mine.... DOH, mine are 3 chamber blocks. Used the Spyder bit just like this, with my Milwaukee hammer drill. had to cut as far in as i could from the outside, then once i could hit the other side of the brick interior with the auger, i took the hole piece off and punched through with just the main auger piece so i knew where to hit it on the inside. finished the hole inside and boom, all good.
No, the 4” bit is fine for a 4” vent. There is approx 1/8” rough play in the 4” and you will have plenty of room. The hole will wollow out too big if you use a 4-1/2
@@Ozarkwild all I needed for is a dryer vent. My contractor bricked-up where there was a basement window and drilled to vent holes one for a bathroom vent and the other for the other for a dryer. In doing the renovation we had to change in plan.
Lowes has the Spyder brand of bits, I think I got them on sale for $99 bucks and Home Depot has the Ryobi drill, it was around $59, without the battery.
