Thanks for removing plastic guard so we can see tension, just watched a video were guy left plastic cover on and you could not see tension of belt, I determined today mine was too loose compared to exact bike that was just serviced. I have no concern about doing adjustment without the tool, very good video really not much different than adjusting my older chain bikes, thanks for good video
I’ll be adjusting my Suzuki belt today. It’s a little different setup but your expertise on principles will definitely be helpful. Thanks for posting this.
Thanks that really helps I'm getting ready to change some transmission seals and I do have to move the back wheel and then adjust it back to where it was so thank you for the help
New subscriber here. Appreciate your knowledge in these easy to follow videos. Really enjoy learning stuff about working on my own bike, thanks man. Keep em coming when you can. Cheers from Australia
If your doing race sag for a dirt bike that has much more suspension travel that would be necessary. With most street bikes the manufacturer usually has some kind of general measurement. Im glad you liked the video! Hope you found it helpful!
@@norsemencustomcycles7289 On my Sportster or other models with more travel I always pull down or use a strap to simulate the weight to check tension to be safe. 70k+ on the original belt on my 07 XL883 Sportster so far so good. If I am adjusting for someone who is on the big side or carries a lot of heavy gear with a passenger. I have them come back loaded down before a long trip and re check with them on their bike. Might sound ocd yet I really care plus it is interesting to see sometimes.
Thorough examination of how it’s done. One thing I’m curious about is the noise coming from the belt when spinning the wheel. Seen it many times and seems like it’s due to the belt being glazed perhaps.
I am not 100% sure what exactly causes it. I just know some do it and some don't and I've never seen it cause real issues. The noise in the video is way amplified due to the camera location. I'm working on re filming most of these old videos for higher quality production.
Yeah you are probably suffering from. Oph (other peoples harleys) syndrome lol once you get her right and tight it will be a very dependable machine. Hope your experiance improves bro!
exactly what i was looking for - thank you. just to confirm: Check belt tension and adjust with weight off of the bike - reconfirm with weight on the bike? that little section got me a bit.
No sir adjust tension with weight on the bike. I forgot to lower the jack. So I went back and re did the procedure off camera with the weight on the bike.
Most shops are not even close to this thorough on a rear tire install or belt adjustment I am very pleased to see you get it dialed in. Basically the same way I adjust my 00 Softail Standard and other bikes. I also use a long straight edge or string and check the rear alignment to the front which also seems to help my bikes handle better. When my bike is on the side stand I lean over the seat using my weight and re check my tension with that same gauge. Its a bit of a balancing act yet it works if I don't have someone to sit on the bike to simulate weight. Excellent to see that you don't adjust too tight. Sadly people including many HD stealerships do and cause expensive repairs. Book says 1/4" and to me that it way too tight. On industrial cog belt or even racing engine applications too tight prepare for a mess. The numbers you gave are where I put them and never had a problem. What are your thoughts about front and rear tire choices ? I would be curious to hear your thoughts. Agreed 100% Better belt wear, improved tire wear, they really handle noticeably better, and makes for a much safer ride. You explain and show everything perfectly hopefully more people watch this and learn. This information could save a bike or even save a person from going down especially grooved pavement or the steel grate bridges. Thank you for sharing.
For tire choices I will typically stick to Avon, Dunlop, and Michilein. I think the performance diffrence between them for the vast majority of riders isn't even noticeable and the price is within 20 bucks of each other, usually. The primary thing I pay attention to, especially when buying online. Is the date code, even if the tires look brand new, if the rubbers 10 years old its going to wear down faster.
@@norsemencustomcycles7289 Date codes on tires are very important yes. My father sold tires for years and told me just like anything else they have a shelf life. Recently a friend of mine bought some Avon tires online when I looked them over that the date code was altered to make them appear newer. I forwarded him this video because he wears tires because he doesn't dial in that rear axle alignment hopefully your video helps him. Personally I love Avon and Dunlop I have not ran Michelin tires. Do you have any recommendations for a Michelin tire type for my 2000 Softail Standard and for my 2007 XL883 ? I have experience with and prefer Michelin tubes they appear to be heavier and stronger. I would appreciate your straight up honest opinions on my tire choices. If they are good or maybe not so good, or poor. Currently on my 00 Softail Standard I have a Avon Speedmaster MKII 3.00-21 on the front. Reason why I love that front tire is I have carpal tunnel and arthritis in both hands it reduces the vibration to my hands, and it requires very little or no wheel weights to balance. My father ran the Speedmaster MKII front in an 18" on Cragar spindle mount front wheels on a front engine dragster he raced for years. I figure if they could handle 8 second quarter mile passes without coming apart or failure in that application they are plenty strong enough for me haha. My rear tire on my Softail is an Avon Safety Mileage S•M MKII 5.00-16 because I couldn't find the Avon Roadrunner MT-90-16 rear. I like how Avon tires take very little to no weight to balance that is a good sign. Only drawbacks to my current tire combination on the Softail is grooved asphalt if the front and rear wheels are out of alignment you feel it big time. Other than that they are great handling on that bike. On my 07 XL883 Sportster I run the factory Dunlop tires front and rear. I get an easy 8,000 to 11,000 out of a rear and twice that amount on the front I ride that bike pretty hard too. So I figure why change they have worked really well since I bought the bike new. Same deal on the Dunlop haven't had to use much weight to get them to balance out. Again I thank you for your time. If you were in Oregon I would bring you a Raisin pie because your videos have earned a full Raisin pie from old Spider of Easyriders original recipe. Stay safe and have a great day.
Hey brother Joe love your videos Great video man really good not too many this specific, on RU-vid. Hey I got an '05 Fatboy and I got it set at 1/2 in It seems tight no noise Am I good?
Thanks for your video, I do have a Question. What if the drive belt has loose spot and a tight spot? On my 13 Ultra the specs are 3/8 to 7/16 On the tight spot it is 3/8 and on the Loose spot it is 7/16. Do I adjust to the tight spot or the loose spot or leave it as is? Thanks PJ
I’m stumped on my softail and was wondering if you could help me out. With alignment and proper tension my belt wants to run off the drive pulley off the transmission. If you have any idea on what could be the issue it’d be extremely helpful
Hey quick question on the belt where the front pulley is was the belt off to the left towards the int. Primary because my secondary Tran belt I noticed is off like a half inch making it look like it’s not on the pulley correct? Or is that how the belts are supposed to be on the front pulley? Thank u for your time and video.
I just bought an older dyna wide glide 2001. The belt looks great on the inside. On the outside of the belt if I am standing behind the bike looks like it is getting wear on the outside of the belt on the right side closest to the frame. It's got a slight indentation all the way around the belt.. it looks a little like the same as the bike in the video as far as I can see but my wear is a little more pronounced. What could be causing this? Or is it normal for a 22 year old motorcycle?? Thank you for any info!!! If belt needs to be replaced what is an estimated cost having it done at the dealership??
suzuki savage 650- ..has marks like tape measure on back and some marks are higher/like every 4th 1 is taller. so earier.. but the jam nut when torqued... changes the belt on the back sprocket .../every dam time you torque it lol... so is added guess were marks be when tight hahahaha dam nightmare! still. im live dirt road nd the belt is way betterthan chain !
So I have a question I was changing the belt on my '97 diamond wide glide and now the tires stuck it won't move it moves maybe a quarter a quarter of a turn and then it stops and then you go back the other way and it goes a quarter of return of stops so I don't know what is wrong with my bike but if you have any suggestions please let me know
Great video great information Joe, I liked & subbed , now I heard you need a rider of similar weight on the bike when checking belt deflection? Does this matter? I'm a 6'5" 290 lbs Viking kinda tuff to find a rider of similar weight around here.
Gauge is best, but in a pinch, if you can twist it to a 45 degree angle you're in the ball park. I've never used Dial calipers to find center, Don't over think stuff!! Just get your tools and MANUAL out & turn the radio on and Enjoy!!😂 Good video bro.
I check the belt guards they can rub and make noise. Rear wheel alignment as he shows you will still have that sound. Cog belts have a sound when operating some are loud depends on the type. Norsemen is right on and his video is excellent.
@@norsemencustomcycles7289 how many have you encountered where you had to adjust the engine and transmission alignment because of a final drive pulley or spricket being out of alignment with the rear wheel ?
@@sswcustomsewing4276 its not all that common on the twin cam series. It can happen though. There is a spacer behind the main drive pully that can become worn out. This is very costly and labor intensive though so I like to exhaust other options first. If I found a bike like that I would double check rear wheel alignment first. Rear wheel bearings. Swing arm and swing arm bushings. I would also take a peak at the main drive bearing seal with a flashlight to check for any kind of weeping seals.
@@norsemencustomcycles7289 Wow man your the second mechanic who has mentioned the worn spacer behind the drive pulley. I also check the other points you mentioned every time I change a rear tire. I have encountered the labor intensive engine and trans adjustment process one time on my friends late 90s Softail who I have been sharing your videos with. Thanks again man. If you make it to Oregon I would be honored to buy you a cup of coffee.
My rear tire seems to be running against the belt guard on the inside just enough to make the tires start checking after a while , I'm going to take that lower belt guard write the f*** off the inside part, I don't need it on there now I got to get a new tire now I got to get a new tire the now I got to get a new tire the second now I got to get a new tire now I got to get a new tire it's the now I got to get a new tire it's the second time now I got to get a new tire it's the second time I've now I got to get a new tire it's the second time I've had to now I got to get a new tire it's the second time I've had to deal now I got to get a new tire it's the second time I've had to deal with now I got to get a new tire it's the second time I've had to deal with now I got to get a new tire it's the second time I've had to deal with now I got to get a new tire it's the second time I've how to deal with this, I should have f******
