Here's my experience replacing the CV shafts, seals and bearings. I only needed to remove the wheel, skid plate, and the lower bolt from the shocks to get the CV axle out. With the truck on jack stands, you may need to use your jack to lift the control arm and turn the steering wheel, but I didn't need to undo any of the other suspension components for the whole process. With the CV axles removed, on the drivers side you can use a pry bar to remove the stub shaft and get access to the seals and bearings, and on the passenger side you need to remove the differential housing extension in order to remove the stub shaft and replace the seals and bearings. Then use a basic seal puller to get the seal out (I used Lisle 56750), and again on the driver's side, you may need to use a jack to reposition the control arm or turn the wheel to get better access for the seal puller, and the bearing puller. For the bearings, I initially rented a 3 piece rear bearing puller from O'Reilly, but that didn't fit in the bearing. I ended up buying the Orion Motor Tech 16 pc puller kit from Amazon (the type with the expanding collet, for blind holes), this had the correct size bearing puller. On the passenger side housing extension, I had a bit of difficulty removing the bearing initially, but a minute or so of careful heating of the housing around the bearing with a torch and it came right out. The seals are the same on each side, but the bearings are different (different OD, same ID). I forget which is which, but one is B2010, and the other is SCH208. Use a socket and a hammer to tap the bearings in until they're firmly seated if you don't have a bearing driver. Same thing with the seals, be aware that on some the center of the seal where it sits on the shaft is raised a bit, make sure whatever you're using to drive the seal is only contacting the perimeter so you don't damage the seal. Reinstalling the stub shaft on the driver side is easy, a few taps with a hammer and it'll go right in. On the passenger side, with the housing extension, it's a bit trickier. The gear and actuator link on the inside won't line up if the stub shaft is already fully installed. Put it together loosely, and then once it's in place and secure, tap the shaft to seat it. You can probably find the alignment on other videos, but on the housing extension, you first install the washer with the tabs up, then the spur gear with the flat side with the two shallow channel cuts up. The fork goes around the ring gear, with the tappet thing on the fork down (towards the actuator), the spring on the rod on top, and the ring gear has the beveled face down (matching the bevel in the housing). With this loosely assembled, apply anaerobic gasket maker to the perimeter, line up and install it, get some bolts in, and then tap the stub shaft in place to fully seat it. Reinstalling the CV axles is pretty self-explanatory. And don't forget to replace the differential fluid when you're all done.
Great video man! Here’s my experience doing this same job; I was able to remove the flange with just a pry bar and hammer. Came out quite easily. I was also able to remove the bearing without undoing my tie rod or any suspension/drive components. Just cranked my steering wheel all the way to the left. After I replaced the bearing and seal I still had the same play in my CV. So depending on the issue this may not solve it. If anyone has some leads on what my actual issue is please feel free to enlighten me. Thanks!
These bearings are only bad when they leak oil. They always have some slop even new. Could be a CV axle vibration, or these are also known to wear the idler arm piviot and all the OEM tie rods. Look into cognito Motorsports pitman/idler brace. Solved slot of issues on mine.
If the needle bearing went bad then there can be some wear and scoring on the axle shaft stub which would cause the freeplay/movement even after bearing replacement.
I just bought a 2004 Chevy Tahoe and let it sit for about 6 months before putting it on the road, now I think I may need a new front differential that's before I came across this video my drivers side bearing doesn't leak but is where I can pinpoint the noise growel like sound it makes when driving it does have a bit of slop to. I changed the front differential fluid and there was a significant amount of fine metal shavings stuck to the magnet. Wondering if this bearing being bad could be the problem that's causing the growel noise sounds just like a bad wheel bearing but more inward on the front drivers side. I've had many actual wheel hubs go bad and I know it's not that ? Any input would be appreciated again it's a rare model with full time awd with selectable 4 lo
Been searching for this video for some time thanks for making it, had two fron diffs in mine an both did this. Plain to rebuild in summer but for now this will do!
What year was the truck i have a 2012 sierra and the people that installed my lift didnt put the diff drop kit and as soon as i left the shop i went on a 2 hour drive and got back home and noticed i had playbon the stub shaft some tell me i do it your way and some say i have to replace it from the inside i feel like it can be done your way im just not too sure.
I just bought an 07 nnbs z71 about 4 months ago and above 60 or 65 I've been getting a pretty annoying vibration and seems to stay there the faster you get, I've replaced every front end part as well as rear parts including new rear axles and bearings, even had 3 sets of tires and 2 sets of rims and nothing has changed it, I've noticed my drivers side stub shaft has some play just like yours... did the bearing fix your problem? Only reason I havent changed the bearing yet is bc everyone keeps telling me that slack is "normal" on these trucks...
@@hmongmuas1386 ended up buying a set of cooper discoverer at3 tires and found a shop to road force balance them, ended up getting a bad tire and was too far out to warranty but the road force balance was a game changer.
Hello there, I'm having this same problem on a 2014 Ford F150. I can hardly find anything on the internet about save this video for a Chev. I wonder if the reinstall process is the same?
thanks my cv axle is wobbling when you shake it centrally!! the joint looked fine.. mechanic is thinking it is the intermediate bearing ... we changed it .. but there is some play!! I am afraid he make some damage trying to take the bad bearing out.. maybe it wasnt bad ..who knows.. anyways it is attached to the oil pan..he's thinking that thats where the problem is which makes no sense!! your thoughts boss? thnx
Would this give the truck a pull side to side only in four wheel drive that's what mine does when I put it in 4x4 on shitty roads it pulls left and right fine in 2wd and front steering and suspension is tight
Is the bearing called an axle shaft pilot bearing? I'm trying to order parts for mine off rockauto but am having a hard time figuring out which bearing to buy?
It will be in drivetrain index as axle intermediate shaft bearing or differential carrier bearing/ race. Check your rpo codes in your glovebox to find out the right kind of differential so you don't order the wrong parts for a different differential.
@@christopherzube551 Thanks for the reply. I hope I ordered the right part. I bought a timken needle bearing part# b2010. Are you supposed to pack these with grease like you do for hub bearings?
@@Street-Shred82 These bearings should be pre lubricated in the box so they don't rust from sitting on the shelf during storage or shipping but it wouldn't hurt to use some white lithium grease on them just to make sure they aren't dry or just lubricate them with the same gear oil the differential uses . These bearings should get lubricated as the internals start spinning by splashing gear oil on them but over time with lack of gear oil changes or leaky seals the bearings fail plus these bearing arent all that big & robust compared to the older designs from years ago so they just don't last as long or can they take as much abuse . I am on here as well because my driver's side bearing is loose so I decided to find a video of this process & it doesn't look that bad other than time consuming & having the right tools which I already have but if this would have been a old Dana 60 I wouldn't be having to do this because it's a much stronger & better design . Trucks now are way over priced cheap junk compared to the older trucks that were better made & easier to work on back in the day . I am not too impressed with this 09 I bought 2 years ago because it leaks engine oil & I have had to fix a few things on it already that my old Dodge I had for 8 years I had hardly any problems with it & it had more miles on it as well . The only reason I sold my Dodge was the body was finally getting pretty rusty & it started to nickle & dime me some plus I was kind of sick of driving it being my daily driver so I actually sold it for more than I bought the truck for off of a village auction that I won the bid on so I figured I would try a Chevrolet this time again after many years of having Dodges a GMC & a couple of Ford's & I think once this thing is paid off I am going to either find a Old Chevrolet or Dodge again with low miles rust free from.out of state because they are tougher & easier plus cheaper to work on compared to this junk they make now. I have a 82 Chevy K10 that's my plow truck for my driveway that's in pretty good shape very little rust & I actually almost like driving that truck over the 09 I have plus it's far easier to work on & when I had - 27 below temps last winter in Wisconsin my newer truck would even start but that old 82 fired up so all this new fangled high tech crap they all have now isn't what it's all cracked up to be lol . What had happened was the new battery I put in the 09 went dead & didn't have the power to crank the truck over so I tried my 82 & after cranking it over & pumping the hell out of the Edelbrock carburetor on it, it started & stayed running while I put the battery charger on the newer truck & let it sit & charge for a few hours . I think the new battery froze is what happened because the batteries the newer truck takes aren't very big in size compared to the one I have in the plow truck & their isn't enough room in the newer truck to go larger in sized battery on it so kind of shit out of luck because of the way GM designed it's battery box on it .
i have a quistion i have a 2008 impala 3.5 v6 got hit on front drivers side it knocked my wheel outta alighnment and damaged steering knuckle tie rod end i replaced the knuckle from one at the junkyard but realized it did not come with a hub sensor so ended up picking one up at rock auto replaced it but noticed at 40 mph im hearing and feeling a vibration i did notice after that that their was greese or something coming from the outer boot of the axle im thinking that maybe this would be something causing my problems what would you advise me too do
That clip that snaps on the stub shaft, could you replace it through the stub shaft hole after you pull the bearing out? Thanks man. Edit: did you just put the snap ring on the shaft after replacing the bearing and seal, then it just compresses and slides through it all?
All you had to do was pull the axle (remove wheel hub / bolt & washer) and the vertical steering stabilizer arm on the right side... Then remove the flange bolts and wa-laa...
So I pulled my cv stub shaft out of the differential only to find out that it didn't have the snap ring on it?? It didn't come out easy either, could it be that it broke off inside the differential??
that tie rod is fine its made to do that. put your wheel on and with one side jacked up lightly shake your tire side to side, if that joint pops or moves then its bad. but it is made to swivel.
Any chance you can remember which bearing you used? I'm doing the same job today and the replacement bearing I have is the same one with the castellated inner cage. Probably gonna make a quick ref. video to go along with the replacement and I'm gonna put a link to this video in the description if that's ok.
Here’s a link to the part for our 2014 2500hd. Hopefully this helps.... www.stockwiseauto.com/acdelco-fd100-axle-shaft-bearing?gclid=CjwKCAjwu5veBRBBEiwAFTqDwTnWYpwhAg8I0NHGtenRWXvmzO2YsulA-C8KCqIwuLd62DzuCNCpShoCSHsQAvD_BwE&fit_id=25327&Year=2014&Make=Chevrolet&Model=Silverado%202500%20HD&gsID=pxf332382f25327&
Here’s also a link to the tool I found on Amazon....hopefully this helps Shankly Rear Axle Bearing Puller, Axle Bearing Puller www.amazon.com/dp/B072KYKPVV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zk2XBbKKFW4WB
Update: I completed the repair. Phone took a quick flight in the middle due mainly to frustration, so no video.. The bearing replacement unfortunately didn't fix my issue, so I am getting ready for a complete rebuild. (Too much play in the spider gears, noisy rollers, and gear oil that looked like Terminator 2 coming from the drain) I'll do the proper camera setup on this next one. This video was still GREATLY helpful! That bearing was shot, but come to find out everything else is as well..
I have the same problem at 70mph, I checked mine and they had very little play but the driver side had just a hair more play. I have a 08 lmm and I drive it for 2 months without the passenger side front axle because I broke it, and when I finally got the new 1 it started the vibration about a day after install. I was told me tire might be out of round or balance
something else to check- if you've cranked up your torsion bars, the CV angle might not be happy. You can try lowering the T-bar adjustment. From what I've heard, the CV shafts on these pickups should not break, unless youre shaft is too short (ie, if you've cranked the torsion bars up and have not added a spacer on the CV shaft).
Wondering is lowering just as bad same principle . I have play same as this and major fluid leakage from drivers side .. ive cranked mine down to match 2/3s drop ? Any idea how to replicate stock geometry without buying drop spindles ?
taylor pierce probably the side that broke needs a wheel hub now.. The CV is torqued to the hub, driving without the Axel; the hub was floating and u probly burnt up the hub grease and have slop in the hub bearing now.. Before u buy a new hub, check to see if it is under warranty.. I replaced mine with Moog, 3 year warranty.. I replace mine before the warranty ends, there easy to change with all the right tools.. Most CV axels are lifetime warranty through autozone
I think the Silverado 2008 and up CV axels are an inch longer then the 2007 classic and older, forget exact year tho.. I'm sure there's a post somewhere saying whichever year is longer.. Then at least u don't have to use a spacer, spacers sound kinda risky.. Just adds another thing to go wrong..
Would this happen all the time? I have a Denali awd and it's making a vibration when I accelerate. It stops if I let go off the gas pedal, I noticed the axle has some play like yours. Thanks!
Drivers side Timken b2010 or ac delco 26041515 for bearing both are the same and Timken seal part number is 710648 I think passenger side bearing is GM part 26066885 I think seal works for both sides not positive on that though.
So I think you just showed me what is wrong with my 2007 Ford Ranger level 2 Edition four-wheel drive pickup front carrier bearing on the inside of that CV shaft is bad
Can some one tell me the part number for the bearing and seal for 2008 Chevy Silverado call every parts store and they are dumb tell me they can not find it I know you can buy it help a brother out
I like how people wreck their truck with a half ass lift leaving the truck with horrible steering and suspension geometry that destroys parts. then he makes a how to video that should be labeled how not to do. What a hack
I like how people wreck their half ass grammar then he doesn't provide any insight as to what is wrong with the lift kit or why this is "how not to". If I'm doing something wrong, and you're an expert, use your big boy words and talk about it so others can benefit from your half ass comment. Thanks. Love you guys.
That axle is too much at angle you just putting to much pressure to that axle and ain't gonna last.....why buy the same bearing and not go with something wider and stronger solid inner bearing
It's not an axle, it's a CV shaft. And the suspenson is unloaded, as the vehicle is up on a jack, as you can plainly see. And, I've never heard of a "solid bearing" - do you mean a plain bearing? Because plain bearings don't exist for this application, to my knowledge. And, your grammar is horrible. And, I don't even own this truck anymore, but that bearing had no issues after this. Thanks for the comment. Everyone's an expert.
Hey pal you made a few mistakes you know first of all you know you could’ve turn the wheel right to get the clearance to drop the CV you know you should’ve put a jackstand on the log control arm when your pop that thing off you’re not going to flunk something and took your iota broke your fingers secondly the the bearing is not supposed to go flush with the older kids it’s supposed to go pass it to the stop OK look on the half shaft and if you want measuring you’ll see where the Berean stops on the half shaft OK will you have it flush with the housing is not going to drive the shaft as far in as it supposed to go you might have a little slippery it’s not good to do that if you don’t know what you’re doing look it up for us talk to mechanic talk to somebody at a Chevy GM dealership It’s not right you tell people what to do if you really don’t know you could cost them a lot of money you know I mean if something breaks in the vehicle you know they could possibly so you are given false information you know on the media always check your fax Paul I can see that you’re not really mechanically no inclined to do this work I mean you know what to do but that is it always you know the best thing I have going for you because his lot more detail as far as safe And to do the job right and correct take care
1. Please use English with words, grammar, and punctuation so others can understand you. 2. Please make your own video since you're obviously better at this than I am. 3. This was a successful repair with over 40,000 miles and no further issues.
Im having issue with front diff on 00 Silverado, makes chirping sounds driving forward and when your in 4 wheel it's worse, replaced passenger side seal, but not the bearing......😬could it be the bearings making the chirping sounds. There are signs that fluid leaked out on both sides of differential.
