Thank you for this awesome video. My bearing must have siezed on my 96 f250 and blew out the hanger bracket. Got a OEM ford bearing and bracket for $52 out the door. Grinder and Budweisers were my best friend on this project. Ole bessy rides again! Easy job besides fighting to get that old bearing off without damaging the shaft. I cut the bolts and clamps right off the old bracket. Didnt even bother trying to wrench. Everything is impossible to budge here in the northeast unless you replace yourself and coat with pot15 and anti-sieze. Easier to cut off and get new ones. Thanks again man! Wish i could buy you a beer!
I'm glad I could help! I really didn't think much of it at the time when I made the video that so many people would find it useful. Input from folks like you really helps keep the motivation up to make videos for the channel. Maybe one of these days we'll run into each other, there are only so many people driving OBS trucks these days and I have yet to come across an OBS owner who wasn't at least somewhat passionate about their truck. Take care!
@@Rnddiesel bought my 96 f250 brand new off the lot when i was 22 years old. $27,900. Worked my ass off to make those $570 monthly payments. But it was well worth it because ole bessy is still rollin down the street, turning heads 24 years later! Rock on bro!
Thanks for the video ! Just started changing all SIX of the U-Joints and 2 Carrier Bearings on my 1998 E350 25 Pass Shuttle Bus. What a freaking job. I stopped tonight on it to find out how to get the carrier bearing back on. Your video helped big time with the pipe fitting. I think I got one of those or a piece of pipe to fit around the ranch here...somewhere. Thanks Again. My bus is a 98 w/ 7.3. I also have a 95 & a 97 F350 trucks. They both got the 7.3 in them. I did a decent vid on how to quiet them down by changing the oil in the HPOP reservoir. Seems the tank likes to get clogged. Another old ranch trick to get the most miles out of any engine is to place a big strong magnet on bottom of oil pan. No metal goes through engine. I got 400K miles on my 1995. Still going strong. Good luck !!
Great video! Will be attempting this repair in the am. 2000 F250 7.3 with 418,000 miles Still going Strong! I see why the manufacturers stopped producing this engine. Lol. Not enough business for their repair guys.
If you have room and time, put the driveshaft in the deep freeze at least overnight (the longer the better) makes reinstall a lot easier. This helps with any press on type bearing.
Speaking from experience, go easy with that torch, you can warp the driveshaft. Then a week later you’re laying in a muddy junkyard pulling a good driveshaft off an old pickup because the one you have shakes like hell.
I luckily didn't have any issues! It helps to concentrate the heat on the bearing rather than the drive shaft. I'll definitely be sure to be careful next time it's due for replacement, sorry to hear you weren't so fortunate. Thanks for the input!
I did pretty much the same but I had a pipe that extended past the splines and I put a cap on that pipe. So when I tapped on it it did very little to no damage. No I have a tool to install carrier bearings. Picked it up at lowes. Had to grind down the threads on the one side with my bench grinder but that was easy.
Hey! Thanks for the video, looking at doing this myself very soon. Would you know off the top of your head how far the end of the spline was from the bearing? Looking at getting an 8" gear puller and hoping that would work instead of all the grinding and pounding. (As fun as that sounds.)
I'm glad the video helped you out! I never measured the exact distance, but it was a foot from the end of the spline at least. I tried using a puller myself, a pretty big one too, and it still wasn't long enough to work. Another issue you'll run into is that when you pull on the bearing itself, it'll fall apart before it comes off. The actual bearing surface that press fits onto the shaft is very stuck on there. I hate to say it, but I think the only real way to get the bearing off it to heat it and hammer it off the shaft like I did. Let me know if you find a better way, and best of luck!
Use your cutoff wheel to make a diagonal cut most of the way through the inner race , then use a cold chisel to crack it . Then it will slide off . Just did one on a class 8 this morning .
I used a $15 8 inch harbor freight wheel puller to pull the bearing and inner race off. I also used a 1.5 inch pvc pipe with a end cap on it from Lowe’s. Used a rubber mallet to drive the new bearing on. I was working on a gmc Sonoma btw.
Yes, and if you use a small diameter cutoff wheel, like on a die grinder, you can control it better and get on it a little easier without doing collateral damage. Be careful using a torch around hardened steel parts (splines/shafts), you can accidentally remove the temper if it gets too much heat. Great video 🤙
4 years later and I did another class 8 Volvo bearing, but now I've got the new Hercules grinder with a 5 inch cut off wheel and an air hammer with a chisel bit. Since the Volvo drivelines are about 3 or 4 times the weight of most class 8 drivelines I just hang them with chains between the frame rails and do it in place. I've done 4 or 5 like this in the last 4 years and the rest of the guys in the shop are doing it the same way now. Use lots of never-seeze going back together.
HEAT.......use a torch to heat the bearing and a bearing clamp to pull it out. It took me over 9 hrs to complete the work. But had I just heated the bearing earlier, this job would have been done by noon!
If you have to replace the hanger you may as well change all the u joints while you have it off. Chances are they will need replacing sooner than later.
I'm glad to hear you like the video! I have no idea what size pipe I used, it was an old one I had sitting around. It couldn't have been more than 2.5 inches in outside diameter though.
I wish I seen this in Arkansas at the parts store. I beat for hours before it came off I didn't have a torch to melt the plastic in the ujoints 3 pound sledge and socket it finally came free
Do you need an angle grinder or was that just to make it easier? I'm going to attempt to replace this on my 1994 gmc sierra. I'm very nervous to do anything down there because I live out of my truck atm.
Would that clicking noise sound like a squeaking noise mixed with a clicking noise?? I ask because I have a feeling that my 1986 f250 needs new carrier bearings on the driveshaft
Don't just order that Bearing, because there are two different sizes. They make one with a 1.3780 mm ID and another 1.5748 mm ID. Both bearings will indicate that they fit. I had to cut mine off like in this video then noted the old NSK bearing # 35DSF01 being used inside the assembly had a company listed ID dimension of 1.37795. You could also micrometer the shaft at the bearing placement.
I tried to buy a bearing for Ford F-150 super crew 2wd 3.5 echo boost and they tried to sell me a whole drive shaft. After markets are a bust also. Would you know the part number that fits it?
Hey I just did this on my truck and I have a few tips. I only cut through the bearing in two spots and got it down so there was just the races pressed onto the spindle. I then heat it up the races and they scooted right off with a chisel without nicking the the drive shaft. I used a jack when I lowered it and again when I put it back on I used the Jak 2 get the bearing up to bolt it up
I just had to replace the pinion seal in my 97 at 350 and I had to put the boot on underneath the truck and then I had to take it back off and put it on about 3 different times
Wow wish I woulda found you a while ago I couldn't find any vids on how to replace this thing I had such a hard time 😂 we have the same exact truck by the way! Check out my Instagram if you have one @obs_7.three
Nice, that's about what I've done, too. Though I've also added an intercooler that still needs charge tubes fabricated, 6.0 transmission cooler, my own "custom" 3-3.5 inch downpipe to a 4 inch DIY glasspack and exhaust. TS6 chip with stage 1 160/000 injectors on the way. I thought about the Hydra Chip instead, just wasn't a huge fan of the screen and buttons. I like the style of the knob more than anything.
Rnddiesel the hydra chip doesn't have a screen! Its just a little box with 2 buttons and numbers and nice I was thinking about going stage 1 but the shop told me unless I'm ready to upgrade the fuel bowl and all that stuff that I shouldn't do it because once I do injectors you need to upgrade to support them lol
Well yeah, the numbers is what I meant. Whatever, I'm sure it is nice to be able to just get new tunes through email. I've gotten good at taking out my chip anyway for re flashing, just pop off the parking brake pedal and out it comes, nice and easy. I'll find out quick if my truck can handle the stage 1's, I tend to drive like a grandpa anyway to get good mpg. Besides, the e4od isn't known for being strong behind the 7.3. Also with stage 1's like I have, they still have stock nozzles, check out my "7.3 injectors explained" video, so they behave like a stock injector until you get custom tuning to take advantage of all the fuel they can flow. So especially if you don't run aftermarket tuning, there's really no reason not to throw in stage 1's. The fuel flow capability is there if ever you want it for later. Heck a stage 2 is basically just a stage 1 with 30% over nozzles anyway!
