How do you drive stuff between centers? Here's my take on a driver for the metal lathe. #lathe #diy #machineshop And thanks to Joe Pie for sharing: • A Simple Chuck Modific...
I really like this video because I created a home-made lathe and I was having trouble turning my wood on it, so I cam with the exact same concept (not execution), except I had interchangable 3D printed adapters that were mounted on the threaded rod I was using as the shaft and center.
at 8:36 another option is to use tapered shank or machine drills (in a collet) directly in the quill, negating the room a chuck takes up, also it is a very rigid way of mounting a drill.
Great, tool I have something similar for working with a dead center with the deeper of my chucks still on the machine, but like others have said. If you can’t trust your spindle MT, then fix your spindle’s taper! Having a working spindle taper is essential for basic machine alignment and use. This is a basic aspect of lathe maintenance being able to repair burrs and if necessary re-cut and grind the spindle taper, is a must have capacity. Short of my desktop/benchtop scale lathes at home, that I have owned for 30+ years and managed to keep their tapers pristine (needing nothing more than a light touchup lapping), I have done it on every machine I have ever owned or used professionally at least once, usually due to a burr forming due to someone (sometimes me, more often someone else on shared lab machines) not cleaning the bore before seating a taper tool. This happens, even on $50K+ Schaublin tool room lathes, used for aerospace tool room work on flight spacecraft components, some idiot (not me in that case) will be careless and put a burr in the spindle bore. Work needs to get done in spite of it, so you spend the 20 minutes to fix it, so you can get your work done, not 2 hours making a workaround that also leaves the problem there. It’s not hard to diagnose and fix, and could have been done in a fraction of the time necessary to make the tool. Print and fix your taper, print and check your taper tools, fix them if necessary too. But the tool is interesting. Good work.
Interesting tool - one question though - if you made if to fit a 5C collet, why not do all the subsequent operations holding it in the collet....? Seems easier than the 6-Jaw...
Hi, I don't have a particular good reason other than convenience. The 6 jaw was already on the lathe, so I used it. At 4:06 the part was flipped and I machined the register for the spring, that does't need to be concentric to the rest of the part (there's a gap to the outer piece), so I didn't even try to indicate it, if I remember well. Then I indicated it to machine the outer piece at 13:41 (just for the finishing pass, to get the run out closer to the steel body). I had a couple of tenths of runout (0.0001/0.0003"), which is as accurate as I can probably get with the 5C. So I went ahead and didn't touch it until I finished all operations. In the future, as long as the center is recut in place, there's no need to worry with the runout in the main body, so I can use the 3 jaw, the 6 jaw or the 5C (whatever is already on the lathe). I hope this makes sense. Thanks
My lathe has a MT taper in the spindle. I pop the chuck off and use a MT dead center in the spindle when I drive a dog. I also cut an aluminum holder with a MT taper in it so I can use the dead center in the chuck.
@@nbrworks Why can't you re-install a compound, set your angle correctly and take a 0.005" cut from inside your spindle and correct the fault? 2nd possible solution, an MT-3 tapered clean-up reamer/cutting tap. I have seen them on EB for about $35. On this day 04-Jun-24, the auct number is 313252838129, it will be different or gone totally in a few days to weeks so look fast. There are other sellers that will pop-up, I'm not involved with this or any other sale.
@@nbrworks Tks for the reply. "The Hobby Machinist" users group has a thread on cleaning up damaged MT tapers. The thread is titled "Cleaning up MT2 and MT3 tapers?" and says "Hardened or not, the reamers should work" on the 2nd PAGE of users comments. Good luck with your decision/path... I can't find my original comment to stack this comment upon the top of....Thanks for making this video.
Well adapted from thought to thing. I have a feeling that its going to be extremely useful in future and well worth the video and the drawer space. Thanks for sharing
a great build, but in the past, they just used a faceplate (thats the reason for the holes in it!), this drives the 'dog' and holds the center, in the bore; just don't forget to wedge the dog, to stop backlash.
You can't trust your spindle's taper? I'm no machinist. I've only watched youtube videos. But can't you run a boring bar into the spindle taper to clean it up a couple of thousandths? Would that not work?
Hi! No, it needs to be reground (with a grinding stone). I'll have to make a tool post grinder for that, until then I'll use this tool shown in the video. My lathe's spindle taper doesn't the correct angle ground from the factory - hence the 'can't trust' part.
Hi Jarry. I can't work in a dirty environment, I just can't ☺️ I often spend time cleaning and organizing. The good part is that, most times, I can quickly find stuff I put away years ago - it's the benefit of having an organization (and mental) system. Merci pour ton commantaire et bienvenue sur la chaîne!
@@nbrworks Hello, I appreciate so much this style of philosophy, My machines are always super clean as my finger, the Dyson eat every thing at any moment fixed on the machines. Clean is precision as in my job of racing fine motor preparation, a part of dirt and you forget. In my little workshop, no grinding, I make it outside. At 72 years old my passion is my workshop. Go on to enjoy us with your talent. Bien cordialement l’artiste👍
@@jarrychicanaux5821 It's such a previlege having people like you on the channel. Truly appreciated. When you say a small particle can ruin an engine build, I know what you're saying. A little bit of grinding dust down the bores... and the engine's done. I think you'll like my next video (currently editing it) 🙂 I don't know if you had a look at my website, which is now a little bit outdated, but I have documented there my last engine build (actually it was my second, so "last" is a strong word). It's nothing fancy, just an old anchor, but I loved doing it. I finished it in 2019, I checked the oil pressure and it's still on the floor! I regularly turn it over... but I really need to find the time to fit it in the car. There are several posts about it, from conception to paintwork: www.nbrworks.com/category/60s-mini-stuff/ PS: Go easy on me 😃 I'm not a professional, just someone with a passion.
Hi. It's from Amadeal in the UK. I got it in 2019. "25" model (700x180 table). If you are in the US, look for the PM25MV by Precision Matthews, it's pretty much the same machine.
I was an apprentice in a machine shop for 4 years, and 30 yrs as an industrial mechanic, nothing like that was ever done like this, cost being the factor
By my abrasive wheel I have several thin pieces of aluminum, (0.100-0.250"), w/ various loose fit fastener holes drilled towards the edge. When I need to chamfer a fastener, I put it in the appro hole, then spin it w/ an allen socket or a 6-point socket, depending on whether it's a socket or hex head. I find the little piece of aluminum lets my fingernails get beyond the nail beds & keeps my fingerprints from being sanded off. Give it a try. If I need to taper or dog point a fastener, I use a cordless drill to spin it in the drilled plate; I get much more control than w/ a drill alone.
Can a 5C collet get to 30mm? Mine only has up to 29. For tall work on the mill it's strategic to have a set of Morse collets, these are cheap. Not sure about R8, that should not exist outside of North America in first place.
You know you can't have too many tools, jigs, fixtures and chucks but have you ever considered repairing your Morse Taper? This is a classic example of over engineering but I love it. I imagine that if I had many between centers jobs with a small square end I'd be happy I had this tool on hand. Let's face it. There's no greater satisfaction than digging out an old (had to have it back when) idea years later. As always, I thank you for letting me visit your shop. Wakodahatchee Chris
Hi Chris. That's a good question, thank you for asking. Yes, I have designed in Fusion 360 a complete toolpost grinder, including a second (longer) spindle for the morse taper job (because I don't think I can buy a grinder with an adequate size for my lathe). I ordered the stock to start with it, but then stuff got it in the way and I lost momentum - I haven't started yet, but I might revisit that in the next months. This tool in the video took some hours to make, that's true, but worked well and I can continue to use it until I got the taper fixed. Thanks!
why do people even bother with lathe dogs or other drivers? i never use them. as long as you put good pressure on the part it never fails. even on heavier cuts .100" at .008"/rev on 1.5" round bar, the friction alone still holds the piece in place. you should give it a try.
