Damp Sam has had 10 bags of Safeguards Dryzone Damp-Resistant Plaster sent to him to try out at a customers property. See how he gets on with it and what he thinks.
Using this dryzone plaster straight to brickwork. I know most people paint SBR onto the brickwork first, can that also be used along with the dry zone cream, before using this type of plaster you're using.
Hi Sam , would be nice to know you opinion on British Gypsums DRI COAT backing plaster as a component of damp proofing , and also the use of dry shield liquid , ive done a few damp proofing projects over the years , and where salting is evident ive always used Dryzones dry shield cream for the salt neutraliser , then applied the Dri coat backing plaster thereafter , and ive got to say ive never had a problem with any future damp or salts [ I did also install a new injection too] the dilemma ive got is that NOW safe guard Europe are saying that the dry shield cream shouldn't be able to accept any backing plaster as its also a water repellent and the plaster wouldn't stick ! news to me as ive been using this process for years , they then went on to try and sell me the dry grip adhesive for the dot and dab system , this seems like a bit of a sales ploy to me , as I told them I was using a british Gypsum product , sorry for the long drawn out explanation , any advice /opinion would be greatly appreciated Dan
Dan Atherton hi Dan, thank you for watching and commenting on the films. I’m no scientist but I do know that the Dry Shield cream was made as pard of the express system. They sell a salt neutraliser that can be spayed on the wall in a blue 5ltr bottle but I’m not sure if it’s name. We always use that when applying wet backing plaster. Iv not used the dry coat plaster as the companies we use have there own plasters but in the British Gypsum White book it says it’s a cement based plaster suitable after dampproofing. So it’s not gypsum based. Soveriegn used Renderlite and now they advise to mix it with SBR. The amount is unreal though. I was always taught ( by the lecturers at the PCA) to use a cap full in renders but Soveriegn are saying loads. The SBR helps bond the backing to the masonry and has a waterproof element. Hope this helps
Hi. Is using the renderguard gold, to do first coat of render. The cheapest way? Are there any probs doing it this way? It says using the renderguard system, you do the rods. Then liquid dpm. Then one coat of sand cement with renderguard in it. Then layer of just sand cement. Then plaster. And paint
BIG MIK3 hi, sand cement render and renderguard gold was the system we used for years and is a great product done correctly. The issue with renders is hairline cracks and cold thermal bridging on external walls. Cement renders have to have the background prepped correctly and each coat weaker up to the top coat. It’s not cheaper than safeguards express system either. Render has to be left 1-3 days before it’s skimmed if done correctly too.
Dan Atherton yes it’s a backing plaster, they do a quicker setting one to and a high lime for heritage work. It’s ideal for solid stone walls, cottages, barns, etc and used with dry rods or damp check rods. It’s an expensive system though.
