Carbon builds up inside the VGT. Freezing the control arms inside. Dissamble VGT very easy. Soak control arms and VGT vanes in diesel. They will free up. Assemble when done.
Another win with some logical troubleshooting and experience, great job... One more from the herd will go on to serve someone well thanks to your diligence !!
interesting that they chose to use the DPF light instead of the CEL. And I am surprised that manually freeing it up worked. I would have assumed it would need R&R and manual cleaning and damage inspection. Often a thing like that would be replaced like the EGR valves often are. I learned something new for the toolbox today, thankyou
That’s great buddy. Glad you didn’t have to pay someone to bake the DPF. I heard that sound in your other videos and thought it sounded weird but figured it was a “diesel thing” and of course I don’t know much about diesels. Hell I don’t know much about gas motors lol
Great video thanks brother. Glad you got it to work. Question do you like the DT engine?? I know they have been around a long time. DT466 I always had trouble with them getting air in the fuel system. The company I worked for had a few of them. They ran great for awhile would let you know when it was time for a oil change. They had one was good then just get air in the fuel. Could have been the driver but you would think being it's in his service truck he would fix it. He didn't last long he said it was junk to the wrong person and he wasn't a truck mechanic. The next one had the same issue with it. Took about a year but he fixed it then they sold it. I just didn't like to service them. Fuel filter lasts and you would still have to crack a line loose. I'm done rambling on great job keep up the great work see you in the next video thanks again brother.
i do like a dt engine. i prefer the 2007 and older ones over the maxxforce series due to all the emissions garbage that can be problematic. i have never had a fuel problem like that on any of the ones i have owned.
The VGTs are nice technology that upped the boost over old turbo tech as needed. I remember there was a little hiccup out of some of them on the F series maybe the fist year but for the life of me I can't remember what we did to take care it. I want to think the part that varied the boost would stick similar to yours and I 'm thinking they replaced them with updated units back then. Nice seeing you free one up hope all's well with you and yours. Has the baby made it yet?
I was really beginning to wonder why you'd put the dump box on a truck with low gvw and no air brakes. I dunno, I dont like driving big trucks with hydraulic brakes and I personally feel that pulling a heavy ass trailer or putting a heavy load on the 550 or 5500 is pushing the limits of hydraulic brakes. I guess its just me though. Im looking into purchasing a used penske 4300 for like 23,000 or so with a Cummins ISB6.7 under the hood, air brakes, air ride suspension, air ride seats, just to shorten the frame like this, just to haul different types of trailers for a living.
i would check the rear axle ratio on any of the rental / lease company trucks before i bought them. many are geared for local driving and not 70+ mph. i use to haul trailers from the manufacturers to the dealers....i have used 1 tons, medium duties and heavy duty trucks.....the semi trucks are usually the best fit. they are built to run well over a million miles and they have all the power / brakes you could ask for. when reduce to a single rear axle...9-10 mpg hauling those light loads is not unusual.
J.C. SMITH PROJECTS True true. Ive thought about getting a semi tractor and using that for when I do go in that business. As of right now, I'm still tryin to get me an actual cdl B, I'm sittin on my clp class B. Since DMVs have stopped doing the tests, I have to go third party. Now that I have found one, I just gotta get the money to go to him.
J.C. SMITH PROJECTS And yes, I'll be sure to check the gear ratios on them. I plan on going through McCandless Truck Center out here to get my first international.
I put a 2013 international cab on my 2000 international dt466e had a stroke been recovering for two years and am bout ready to button it up could use a ride back fresher being I don't really remember other than wire up the cab ant help u could give me ve appreciated a lot thanks mike
@@j.c.smithprojects ya I kept old harness together for most part o managed to get it running after I got out of hospital to put roolback up and now I tryed it the other day and resister just clicks I. The old fuse box one that was under steering wheel the thing I'm understanding is my old cab the 2000 is nothing like the 2013 the 2013 cab runs off of a brain box by left foot to power everything in cab I don't care if instrument gauges work I can always use gps to see how fast am going and what not were are you from by the way
You again proved that common sense will go a long way towards fixing a vehicle. Your diagnosis was on the money and your repair was nothing more than time. A pro would have replaced that turbo believing the variable vane system was seized. You just fixed it. Backyarder with common sense > pro mechanic who's job is to make $ for his employer.
i could have replaced the turbo but it could end up the same way if the truck just sits around. it has been working very well so far. if it gives me any trouble...then, i will change it out.
i would start with disconnecting the head light switch. it may be the problem. without looking at a wiring diagram, i would suspect that. the 4300 trucks use a body control module to turn on and off. no more heavy gauge wiring to the headlight switch and then out to the lights...its all from the module.
@@j.c.smithprojects Thank you! How involved is that do I have to pull the dash? And if Im following you right, just replacing the switch COULD make a difference. Thank u again!
Hey man i have a 2010 durastar 4300 my truck showed the same light . Eventually they truck wouldnt get over 1500 rpms max speed 40mph with out turning off an showing that light as well as the warn engine light . I replaced the turbo and actuator. I drove the truck around when i got on the highway around 2000 rpms 60mph it died out and the Exhaust light came on again . If i turn the key on and off works fine and light gose away untill the truck gets up to 2000 rpm Or if i floor it real fast once it past 1700 it dies out . Can you help please ?
first check the codes through your dash monitor using your cruise control switches. push the left upper and the right lower at the same time. then wait for the message center to give you the fault codes. find out what they are and go from there.
sweetheart, your vnt is stuck. pull the turbo, clean or replace it. it could be the servo as well. no hammers clown boy. odd, you never said it had a lack of power. ready for this? was the engine over fueling for your dpf and in turn carbon up your turbo? probly
it ran and drove great. it still does today. if it ends up needing a turbo, i will replace it but not until then. many people like to fire off the parts cannon at someone else cost. thanks for the clown boy remark....your comment could have been useful and instructional instead of ridiculous and classless. remember this....for all that you think you know....there is always someone in the world or watching that has forgotten far more than you will ever know. chin up little buddy we are all pulling for you!!
