I tried a set of these in a dab/FM/Internet radio hoping they would last longer than Eneloops. I live in a very strong dab signal area but the noise from the internal circuitry in these batteries interfered with the dab reception so much that I could not use them. They were ok on FM and internet though.
Well thanks to my electricity principals class back in my first semester, I actually understand everything lol. Thank you for running the test. I was just looking at the two AA options from xtar. Guess I'll do some further research. Of course I know better than to trust manufacturer specs.
@DubiousEngineering OH yeah lol. I've been into car audio also and their are some cheaper brands that make ridiculous claims. Glad we have content creators with Amp dynos to show real world power. Would be nice if these companies would just be honest.
I have tested two brands. One claims 3600 mWh produces less than 1800 mAh another claims 3500 mWh and produces over 2200 mAhs. Both needed to be cycled a couple times to give a good reading. The first had two dead batteries out of 12 after three charge cycles (at 500 mA) Good investigation about noise. I have not noticed a problem in my trail cameras but other people have. You can not judge the batteries by the claimed mWh.
L4 uses CVSA tech to charge Ni-MH which results in faster charging and less heat build-up on cells. BC4 can be used as a powerbank and flashlight, but does not use CVSA tech. Also, the L4 is hollowed out for better ventilation of heat build-up on cells. The BC4 is completely covered up and does not let heat dissipate as good. I have the L4, and it is an amazing Ni-MH charger. It charges my Ni-MH cells better than my Dragon VP4 Plus, SV2 Rocket, and FC2. Probably because of the CVSA tech.
4:05 It looks like the slide switch on the probe is set to X10, not X1? Found your video while looking for someone putting these XTAR batteries through a proper discharge test. Testing inside electronic devices is neat and all, but actually testing the capacity and comparing against the claims is really the only way to rate a product like this, especially in a market rife with bogus claims. Thank you very much!
thank you for measuring the noise as well. I bought some Hixon recently and wanted to use them in my weather station capable of receiving the DC77 time and weather data over terrestrial broadcast at 77 kHz - and it didn't work anymore with these batteries. Are there any batteries of that type without that noise? Can I shield them somehow?
I would have thought because they were lithium they would deliver the full 1.5 not 1.38. 1.38 would be expected for Nicad or metal hydride. I would buy them if I was sure I was getting 1.5 but now not so sure. Could your tester be wrong since it doesn’t recognize it as lithium. Just curious
Is it possible to wrap the battery bay with shielding, directly ground it to the batteries negative to isolate the device in use from those emi? I really want to use this in my multimeter as it couldnt take freshly charged eneloop @ 1.2v without low voltage warning. Lithium energizer is good but I dont like disposable battery.
@@DubiousEngineering It doesn't have wifi! Thanks I'll give them a try. Very curious how they'll compare to Eneloop Pros when used in a GBA handheld console.
Hello, does this charger work with USB-C PD power sources? I mean, it takes 5V all right, but what I want to make sure of is that would it work correctly and take 5v with 100W PD charges and cables (that power macbooks etc.). I want to buy the item but want to make sure before buying because I don't want to invest for a new brick and charger just for this. Thanks in advance!
@@DubiousEngineering Of course, I'm okay with that, as long as it works. Some items that hav USB-C ports just refuse to work with PD chargers and cables even with 5v only, that's what I wanted to ensure of. Does it work with PD chargers and cables, even only 5v?
@DubiousEngineering Catch-up: Confirmed by xtar themselves on Reddit and bought it, and it does work indeed. You plug a PD adapter and cable, it works and charges with 5v, but the voltage was not my problem, it working at all was.The USB-C Standards require the manufacturers to add 5.1k resistors if the device inners are built like usb 2.0, and some manufacturers don't do this. This results of the devices not being charged when plugged to a PD charger.
Take it apart and give it a clean, and it will work again, I had a leak on one of mine so took it apart and cleaned it so it is now back outside working again, they cost too much to throw away.
Not good news on the camera, can we see inside, find the extent of the damage, you're handy with a soldering iron. I recognise that plastic cup on the bench at the end!
