I am lefty, goofy foot also, 71 years old, I have a 9’3”. Thank you for explaining this. I have a couple of questions. As a left handed person, do put the board on the right side of your chest like you did in the video? Or, hold it to your left chest while pushing the board down? Thank you
I rail slice duck dive, works great. Doesn't work for me if the white water is over six feet though and I'm 195lbs on a 9'0". Once the white water is pushing 8' and above I go on rail and keep it there, unless I'm tired then I just go full turtle and hold tight about 18~24"" from the nose(and hold on!). When I stay "on rail" I usually just get the first half to two thirds of the board under water, I also then go sideways with the board and hook my top back foot on the upward rail with my top hand on the upward rail as well. I keep my head next to the board so I don't get axed by it and use my bottom hand for that last powerful stroke to get down and out. I usually pop up earlier from the force of the bigger waves, top arm fully extends as the float of the board pulls me up, usually only half or two thirds the way through the turbulence. This also works excellent if I'm going through the face of a hollow wave up to 10' and mostly hollow 12'. After that I'm SOL and waiting for the lull!
I used to Turtle, one time the wave pulled my board and threw me onto the face of it. I was shocked and ended up catching the wave. Now that I am older I think it would really mess me up. Turtling isn't very safe compared to duck diving.
Throw your board ! But when you're under and you feel that tension getting stronger and stronger on your leg rope and you hear that ping under the water and no more tension. It's a long swim to shore.
Never use your knee! I can understand an unscrupulous shaper recommending using your knee to duck-dive...because it will delaminate your deck real quick (you'll need a new board sooner). Always push with your foot to duck-dive a shortboard! However, i just got my first LB and rail-slice is a good tip. Turning turtle is fine in warmer water, but filling your wetsuit arms with freezing water is worse than just bailing the board.
