We are happy to hear that you had great results with our kit! We hope you enjoy your DuraCoated shotgun! In regards to your concern, some of our kits do refer to being able to complete 2 rifles or 4 hanguns, but this kit does not. But, it does sound like you may have used too much on these items and should have had some leftover. There are many reasons why this may have occurred. If this is the case, your results will still be fantastic and the finish will still be durable and effective.
Thanks for putting out this kit for those of us not ready to buy an air compressor. I'm looking forward to give my Sig a lovely TacDesert frame and a dark TacBlack slide. You guys rawk!
Yes, you can DuraCoat a Blackhawk! SpecOps Gen II stock. The only areas of the stock we don't recommend coating are the rubber parts. Rubber can harden and crack if DuraCoated. One (1) DuraCoat Shake 'N Spray Finishing Kit comes with 4oz of DuraCoat and that is enough to coat your stock, receiver, and barrel.
Yes, 400-600 grit sandpaper will work for roughing up a stainless steel surface if you scuff very hard and really work at it for a while. To save time and effort, we always recommend blasting stainless surfaces whenvever possible with either sand or aluminum oxide. TruStrip is always recommended for cleaning/degreasing before applying DuraCoat as it is specifically formulated for that purpose. A very high quality Acetone can be used on stainless though as long as it does not leave a residue.
Yes, it does contain isocyanates. DuraCoat is a safe product as long as proper safety procedures are followed when applying. It is important to only spray in well ventilated areas. In your case, you may be rather sensitive and we would recommend using a high quality respirator when spraying.
Yes, you can DuraCoat over galvanized metal. The prep for galvanized metal is the standard prep for DuraCoat. First, simply degrease using our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser. Then, rough up the surface by either blasting with aluminum oxide or scuff sanding with either 400 to 600 grit sandpaper or a maroon 3M ScotchBrite pad. Then, blow off the dust with clean, shop air and proceed to DuraCoat.
We recommend either the Tactical Extreme Gray or Gray Wolf. They are both dark grays but they are definitely gray and not near the black end of the gray spectrum. The major difference between these two colors is the sheen. The Tactical Extreme Gray has no sheen and the Gray Wolf is a matte sheen, so it has a nice soft sheen to it.
Yes, you should prep a brand new blued barrel in the same manner as is presented in the video. While scuffing with the 3M ScotchBrite pad though, make sure to scuff in an even manner to ensure that the blued surface is evenly roughed up.
Yes, DuraCoat adheres very well to fabric! And when applied properly, DuraCoat will not negatively affect the movement of the bolt. You may feel free to DuraCoat the bolt and internals of the firearm. The only area that you cannot DuraCoat is the bolt face.
Yes, there is definitely enough product to DuraCoat a Mossberg 500A receiver and magazine tube and you will most likely have enough left over to do another project. If you don't want to mix it all up at once, so that you can save it for a future project, you can simply mix only half of the DuraCoat with half of the Hardener and then save the rest for use in the future. Just be sure to clean out the sprayer with the DuraCoat Reducer when you are done so that you can reuse that as well.
There is no need to oil your parts once they are coated in the DuraCoat SL. You must make sure to keep the parts clean though and the SL helps with this as dirt is very easy to wipe off when your parts have been coated in the Duracoat SL.
Once the DuraCoat is mixed with the DuraCoat Hardener you have approximately 6 hours to use it. You do not have to mix all of the DuraCoat at once though. The Duracoat and DuraCoat Hardener are pre-measured to a 1:1 ratio. So, if you want to only use half of the DuraCoat, simply mix half of the DuraCoat with half of the DuraCoat Hardener and store the unmixed Duracoat and DuraCoat Hardener in a cool, dark, dry place for use at a later time.
Yes, DuraCoat can be applied to aluminum. Parkerizing can vary in its color from a light gray to a deep, dark, gray green. Matte Black on the other hand is a true black with a nice, soft sheen. If you are looking for a Parkerizing color in DuraCoat, we do offer our color #6 - Parker which has a traditional gray, green Parkerizing look.
Yes. DuraCoat can have bad reactions due to silicone, but in this case you should have no problems as long you as get the barrel completely cleaned/degreased and rough up the surface.
As long as you are scuffing with either 400 to 600 grit sandpaper or a maroon 3M ScotchBrite fine pad then the texture on your polymer grips should be fine. You should be able to scuff the texture sufficiently for preparation for DuraCoat without worrying about damaging it.
i ordered the multi-color camo set from you guys, i have striped my AK down to the bare metal, sanded it with 300/400 grit and steel wool, cleaned it with acetone, and used 400 grit on all the plastic/polymer parts then cleaned them, is there any other prep you recommend?
Before DuraCoating, the surface needs to be properly prepared by cleaning/degreasing and then roughing up the surface in some way. The Shake 'N Spray Finishing Kit comes with a 3M ScotchBrite pad to aid in the roughing up part of preparation. But, sanding with 400-600 grit sandpaper is also an option. Blasting with 60 to 120 grit aluminum oxide also works very well. So, you don't need to sand it as long as you utilize one of the other options for roughing up the surface.
The more DuraCoat Flattening Agent that you use the flatter the sheen will be. But, DuraCoat Flattening Agent can only be used at up to 10% of volume. This means that if you are going to be adding it to an entire 4oz bottle then you can add any amount up to about 4/5 (or 80%) of the 1/2oz bottle of Flattening Agent. Or, if you are only going to use half of the 4oz bottle then you can add up to 40% of the 1/2oz bottle.
Yes, DuraCoat can be used on copper tubing. You shouldn't prime the copper tubing before DuraCoating though. You should simply clean/degrease the tubing, scuff sand with either 400-600 grit sandpaper or a maroon 3M ScotchBrite pad, and proceed to spray with DuraCoat.
@BassmanSW Exactly, the DuraCoat and DuraCoat Hardener in the Shake 'N Spray Finishing Kit is pre-measured to a 1 to 1 ratio, so half the DuraCoat to half the Hardener is correct. Once the two are mixed you have 6-8 hours to spray it. The remaining unmixed DuraCoat and Hardener can be stored for future use.
I have a two part question. 1) Can this product be used on copper tubing? 2) Assuming that I can, should I prime the copper tubing before applying your product?
Great video man. Me and a buddy of mine are strongly considering buying this to use on his Chinese SKS and the frame of my Bersa Thunder 380 but first I have some questions. 1.) do we need to COMPLETELY disassemble each gun with respect to the parts we do and don't want coated? 2.) is it an issue if we get some inside of the barrel? 3.) how thorough must our oil removal be before spraying?
The small ScotchBrite pad included in the kit should be sufficient to complete your project. But, if you'd prefer to have more, we recommend the maroon 3M ScotchBrite Fine pad or 400 to 600 grit sandpaper that can be purchased at your local hardware store.
DuraCoat is a rather thin coating when applied properly and therefore typically does not fill in markings. But, if the engravings on your knife are not deep enough then you will unfortunately lose them.
In this situation, all of the rust will need to be completely removed and then the rest of the blued surface should be roughed up by sanding. 400-600 grit sandpaper will work great for the roughing up of the bluing. The bluing does not need to be removed, just roughed up. Once this is complete, blow off the sanding dust with clean, shop air and then proceed with spraying with DuraCoat.
@BassmanSW The shelf life of DuraCoat is 18 months and the Hardener is 6 months if stored in a cool, dark, and dry place. The shelf life of both can be extended by storing inside a zip lock bag in a refrigerator. Make sure that the refrigerator is one that is not used to store food.
@DaytonaRoadster It sounds like you have sufficiently prepared your firearm for DuraCoating. The process we recommend is to first clean/degrease the parts and then rough up the surface. And if steel wool is used for roughing up the surface, make sure the steel wool is degreased prior to using it.
@Samurai8989 DuraCoat is a two-part urethane and you should use a respirator that will filter those chemicals. Charcoal filters are best. Latex gloves are a good idea as well. Steve Lauer did not wear a respirator during the making of this video so that he could speak while demonstrating the kit.
DuraCoat is flammable and must be shipped Hazmat. Unfortunately, this means we cannot ship directly to Brazil. We can ship to Brazil via a freight forwarder though and we would be happy to help you with this process.
Once the DuraCoat is mixed with the DuraCoat Hardener there is only a 6-8 hour pot life. After that the DuraCoat will no longer be usable. The DuraCoat and DuraCoat Hardener that comes in the Shake 'N Spray Finishing Kit is already measured out at a 1:1 ratio though, so you don't have to use it all at one time. You can simply use half the DuraCoat with half of the DuraCoat Hardener and store the rest in a cold, dark place for use later.
Yes, 4 ounces of DuraCoat is more than enough to complete your Marlin stock. Typically, 4 ounces of DuraCoat will finish an entire rifle plus you'll have plenty leftover for other projects.
thanks for the reply. Safe to say though these are much lower isocyanates than industrial epoxys that are so dangerous? In other words, does breathing in (indirectly) one kit of shake n spray do permanent damage to you?
Once DuraCoat is mixed with the DuraCoat Hardener you only have about 4-6 hours to spray it before it will begin to harden. Therefore, if you do not want to use it all at one time, we recommend only using a portion of the DuraCoat and Hardener and then storing the rest in a cool, dark, dry place for use at a later time. So if you only want to use 1/2 of the DuraCoat, pour 1/2 of the DuraCoat and 1/2 of the Hardener into the sprayer. Or 1/4 of the DuraCoat and 1/4 of the Hardener and so forth.
So in your opinion, which is going to be the better product as far as durability goes? Also, just a probably stupid question, but how does this effect the operation of your firearm between say, the slide and the lower frame on a semi-automatic pistol? Years ago saw a guy bring a firearm into a gun shop and his pistol was just riddled with debrie from his home done duracoat job. Some say you don't need to worry about your internal parts, but..I just want to do a good job. Thanks.
1) We always recommend disassembling the firearm completely or as far as you feel comfortable. The further you can disassemble it the better. 2) Yes, the one place you never want to get DuraCoat is inside of the barrel. Always plug your barrel before coating. 3) Cleaning and degreasing is the most important step in prep for DuraCoat. Getting rid of all grease, oil, dirt, and gunk is essential to acheiving quality and lasting results.
Yes, DuraCoat will work great on your parkerized 1911 after cleaning the surfaces completely. The only material we do not recommend DuraCoating is rubber.
Thanks for your comment! We do manufacture a bake on product called DuraBake and it is very popular. The only difference between our DuraCoat and DuraBake is the fact that the DuraBake must be baked and is therefore cured once it is out of the oven. They are equal in their durability and effectiveness. DuraCoat and DuraBake are both extremely durable and, once cured, won't scratch or peel and are chemical resistant and corrosion proof. They are both much more effective than factory finishes.
I recently purchased your Shake 'N Spray™ DuraCoat® Finishing Kit. I only need to paint the barrel of my rifle right now. I would like to paint the accessories at a later time. If I mix the entire contents of the kit, how long will it stay useable in the sealed spray bottle?
Yes, you will need to clean and rough up the surface of both of those materials before DuraCoating. To prepare the surface of these materials, simply follow the standard prep procedure for DuraCoat. First, simply degrease using our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser. Then, rough up the surface by either blasting with aluminum oxide or scuff sanding with either 400 to 600 grit sandpaper or a maroon 3M ScotchBrite pad. Then, blow off the dust with clean, shop air and proceed to DuraCoat.
@HDMann292 DuraCoat will hold up and work great on the bolt action. In this situation we would recommend using our DuraCoat SL because of its self-lubricating properties. You should experience excellent results with this. We don't recommend DuraCoating the bolt face though, because you may run into headspace problems.
@LCWDuraCoat thanks, hopefully it goes well, Mutli-cam/color looks like a complicated pattern, hopefully you guys have dumbed it down enough that amateurs like me can handle it :)
@sniper4usmc You only have to mix up enough to do your current project though. The Hardener that is included in the Shake 'N Spray Kit is already measured to the proper ratio, so it makes using only part of it very simple. You can mix up half the DuraCoat with half the Hardener or however much you need to complete the project. Then you can store the rest in a cool, dark place for use later.
Will duracoat stick to fabric like a packpack, sling, mag pouch, etc also if you put it on the bolt of a mosin nagant will it be thick where it will affect how smoothly the bolt works.
I used this stuff in my garage with a mask and still got nauseated for days and nearly threw up. Does Duracoat contain icocyianates? A great product, just wondering on its safety. thanks.
Our suggestions for medium gray colors are: Snow Gray, Mortar, and German Flecktarn Gray. The Snow Gray is the darkest of these medium gray colors and German Flecktarn Gray is the lightest.
You can purchase DuraCoat direct from us, Lauer Custom Weaponry, the manufacturers of DuraCoat Firearm Finishes. You may place an order either online or over the phone. Our website and toll-free number is located in the video description.
@pray4chicken It sounds like there may have been some sort of surface contamination or other issue that led to the adhesion problem. Prep is the most important step in the DuraCoat process. Be sure to always start by degreasing the parts with our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser and then proceed to rough up the surface. You can do this by either sanding blasting with aluminum oxide or scuff sanding with 400-600 grit sandpaper or a maroon 3M ScotchBrite pad. Then you are ready to DuraCoat.
@WildManMN The Preval Aerosol Sprayer will spray up to 12oz of DuraCoat. Simply clean out the sprayer by running some DuraCoat Reducer or laquer thinner through the sprayer. The sprayer can then be stored for future use. Any leftover DuraCoat, that has not been catalyzed by mixing it with the DuraCoat Hardener, can also be stored by keeping it in a cool, dry, dark place. A refrigerator is the best place to store DuraCoat, but make sure it is not one in which food is stored also.
The standard preparation procedure for DuraCoat is to first disassemble the firearm as far as you feel comfortable. Then degrease the parts using TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser. Next, rough up the surface by either blasting with aluminum oxide or scuff sanding with 400-600 grit sandpaper. You are then ready to DuraCoat. If the parts are polished, you'll want to rough up the surface as much as possible to provide profile for the DuraCoat to adhere to.
@torchss The DuraCoat that you do mix up with the Hardener only has a pot life of around 6 hours though, so make sure to use the amount you mix together within that time frame or else it will become unusable.
@WildManMN The best route to go, as far as choosing between the Shake 'N Spray or an airbrush set-up, really depends on your needs and preferences. If you're looking for the simplest way to DuraCoat, then the Shake 'N Spray would be the choice. If you'd prefer the functionality and longevity of an airbrush, then you'd want to purchase an airbrush and individual DuraCoat colors.
As was stated before DuraCoat is a safe product. It is designed to be used by the general public as well as professionals. If you got nauseous you may have failed to implement common safety practices like proper ventilation and protective gear. Use DuraCoat with confidence but in the future be sure to be safe.
@gunfighterzero Yes, when DuraCoating a barrel you should use plugs to prevent any DuraCoat from getting sprayed inside the barrel. We are currently working on Camo Specific DVDs that demonstrate how to DuraCoat a firearm in each of our over 45 different camo patterns. These Camo Specific DVDs are included in your purchase of a DuraCoat CamoPak Plus or EZ Camo Kit in the camo pattern of your choice.
Just a suggestion: you should make the instructions clearer on the package. Specifically using the degreaser & the scotch brite together. The package makes it sound like you do one then the other. If you do this (using the scotch brite dry) it will leave dust & scotch brite particles all over the item you’re going to coat.
The DuraCoat Shake 'N Spray Finishing Kit comes with 4 oz of DuraCoat, but the Preval Aerosol Sprayer that comes in the kit can spray up to 12 oz of DuraCoat. So, if you want to spray another color, all you'd have to purchase is the second color and some DuraCoat Reducer to clean the sprayer. You may also need to purchase some more TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser but that will depend on how big the projects are that you are DuraCoating.
@rookieshooter1 Yes, you'll need to rough up the surface of the stock thoroughly before DuraCoating. Mossberg stocks can tend to need more roughing up of the surface than others, so using sandpaper or blasting to prepare the surface is highly recommended. Use a 400-600 grit sandpaper to scuff sand or blast with 60-120 grit aluminum oxide to achieve the best possible surface. Doing either one of those after degreasing will ensure proper adhesion of the DuraCoat on your Mossberg.
I am prepped, taped and ready to spray tomorrow on a pistol project. Details. Can't wait to spray Stainless Steel and Satin clear on my lady's s&w air weight 638.
In order for us to help you as best as possible, please clarify what you are referring to as the receiver. Then we will be able to assist you in prepping your firearm for DuraCoat.
With all DuraCoat projects, the most important step is the preparation of the parts for coating. Therefore, with all projects, we recommend degreasing with our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser and then roughing up the surface by either blasting with aluminum oxide or scuff sanding with 400-600 grit sandpaper or a maroon 3M Scotch-Brite pad. With plastics, which includes Glock frames, it is very important to degrease and rough up the surface as much as possible as plastics tend to hold a lot of oil.
wsh i had got seen this kit before lol , i got the duracoat tactical black ...used an airbrush to apply . I didnt prep it right and it just ended up flaking off my taurus pt92. Thinking of doing it right this time.
Just get some 320 grit sand paper and start on the slide and work around. Then you can Dura coat it like the video. I had to do the same thing with a polished stainless barrel that I had. If you don't use the 320 grit like I did at first it just runs off and doesn't stick or anything.
My 1911 is parkerized with some scratches showing the metal underneath will duracoat work on this after i use the cleaning stuff in the packaging? Are there any matierals that the paint should not be used on?
Thanks. I had founf the answer to that on your website shortly after I asked! One more question though; your website lists instructions for blued metal in new condition and says the surface doesn't need to be sanded but it doesn't list what needs to be done with blued metal that isn't in new condition. My blued barrel has a bit of rust and scratches so does it need to be 600 sanded?
@GuitarCrazy12100 Yes, DuraCoat would work on a golf putter. Just be sure to follow the DuraCoat directions just as you would if you were coating a firearm. Also, be sure to let the putter cure the full 3-4 weeks before using it.
@heedless619 Yes, you can DuraCoat your Mosin Nagant stock but it does require extra prep. Most Mosin Nagant stocks have been treated in cosmoline and therefore require extra degreasing. We recommend soaking the stock in lacquer thinner for at least a few hours and then proceed to further clean the stock using TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser. Then, rough up the stock by sanding with 400-600 grit sandpaper. Finally, blow off the sanding dust with clean shop air and proceed to DuraCoat.
@BassmanSW Yes, the Shake 'N Spray Finishing Kit can be ordered in one of our sheens of Clear by ordering over the phone at 1-800-830-6677. The kit cannot be ordered in Clear via our website though.
I bought a kit (hk semigloss) and i used the whole 4 oz for painting a shotgun, barrel, receiver and the beat up trigger assembly (not the inside moving parts , only the trigger guard), forend and stock were brand new so i didnt touched them,instructions however say that one kit is enough for 4 firearms, i am sure i didnt overspray, i got very good results and the serial is visible, did i do something wrong or is it that the instructions refer to handguns?.
