I've already put a primary comment on here I'm responding to the content of the comment. However if you're reading this mr. Mechanic, I suggest you look at the first two pads that you show in this video. It clearly indicates that you're having caliper issues. You've had these things on your car for 4 months and yet the one side pad has three times to wear of the outside pad. And I will guess that your primary issue is with the right front brake because that's the one that does most of the work anyway. Get your calipers floating on their sides properly and then put new pads on the car.
I had the same issue with Duralast Gold Pads. I own a 2007 HOnda Odyssey and one of my pads chipped and was worn down to 10% only after 6 months, the other 3 were fine. My caliper pins were lubricated and sliding just fine, so I don't think that was the problem with me.
I had a very similar problem with the Duralast Gold break pads. I own a Honda Odyssey and installed Duralast GOLD pads. One of my pads chipped and was worn down to 10% in less than 6 months. The other 3 pads were in good condition!
If one pad is wearing down quicker then the other you have a sticking caliper. More common in the rust belt, but I live in California and if rust doesn't get it, square cut seals go bad and lose their flexibility causing brake drag.
@@JrSpitty I checked for that, but the caliper was fine. I lubricate the sliding pins every time I change pads. In my case the pad cracked and part of it fell off.
@@goru426 unlikely but possible. Report back in 6 months lol. Square cut seals going bad will cause brake drag. You can't "see them" or verify it other then a intermittently dragging because lateral run-out will eventually kick the pads off the rotor. Also collapsed flexible brake hoses will do it as well.... 6 months - year is about what you would get if one side is sticking. Jack the car up, put the vehicle in neutral and roll the wheels on each side. You are going to feel the drive train since it's FWD but both wheels should stop spinning at the same rate with the same force. Since it's an open diff both wheels will spin if there is no brake drag when you turn one. If there is brake drag you can identify this by trying to spin both wheels and seeing if the opposite wheel moves. If the behavior is biased (you try it on the other side and get a different result) you have a sticking brake.
i bought the regular autozone brake pads and they lasted me 40k miles and I do food delivery. Granted one side wore out while the otherside didn't and found out the caliper bolts needed greasing. Anyways put a new one in the other side and got another 10k. I was considering getting the gold ones but I also had a bad experience with those on my truck and they didn't last very long at all. I mean i was hearing scraping but i didn't physically look at them.
I suggest you look at those first two pads that you exhibited. The Piston side pad is severely worn for only being on the car for 4 months. And I'll bet you the pad that failed was the Piston side of the passenger front. Looks like you're having trouble with the sliders and that your calipers are not floating properly. That puts an awful lot of stress on the Piston side pad. Just so you know, the brake materials on brake pads is not welded to it. Ever.
Used those brake pads on my 2011 honda (front and back) about 2 years ago and have not had a problem but they could have been old stock and maybe the company that makes them now does not cut the mustard
@@NoneMechanic101 It is a gamble now buying parts I have had bad water pumps many times from same place. The quality control is for sure not what it used to be. It is who can make the cheapest part to supply the vendor :(
I had Duralast Golds on two cars. Front and back. They averaged around 12k - 15k tops but I had to replace rotors on both vehicles. After about 3 sets that I exchanged for lifetime warranty; I bought some Akebonos because I was tired of changing brakes so much. Not only do they last longer, they don't eat up my rotors like the Duralasts did.
thanks for the video my son had the same problem whit his mitsubishi mirage 2017 so is it bes to buy the duralast regular pads that the duralast gold pads
First pair of duralast gold lasted me 5 years. I bought a pair and they lasted 3 weeks before they broke. Very frustrating because I need new rotors now
Hey brother I am having issues with my honda accord aftermarket break pads I'm having a banging noise when going over bumps. Right after I changed the pads and rotors
Quick question, what make of car did you buy these pads for? I changed brake pads for 4 different cars in early November of 2020 and 2 of them are fine and the other 2 seem like they hitting metal to metal and they are both Nissan one an Altima the other Sentra so I wonder if they Nissan pads are faulty. Thanks
I hade Brembo's on my SRT they were built for race cars. Expensive but they never delaminated like that. It is because the inferior epoxy heats up and let's go. You wont see a Brembo brake system or a Brembo pad do that.
It depends on the brake pads and the way a person drives. Brake pads should last between 45,000 to 50,000 miles. But they should be check on any signs of noise. Here in New York every year we have to get the car inspected. This is one of things the mechanic would check
I have the Duralast Elite Brake Pad on the fear currently with the Duralast Gold Rotor and it seems to work properly for daily applications compared to the Duralast Gold Brake Pads which I have nothing but problems with and the don’t shred they fall right off the brake pad frame everything this guy is saying is true. Performance Brake Pads are catching my attention and there are not that many brands on the market, does anybody have any recommendations on break pads like Brembo or Akebono?
Purchased my first set of Akebono pads about a month ago for my Nissan. So far so good. Looking to get a pair to replace my front brakes for my 2013 Toyota Camry.
I bought the duralast gold pads and literally the sand day the right side of the pad broke off. Both my calipers were changed and hoses so I have been questioning buying from them again.
This just happened to my vehicle. I was getting off the highway i heard kaplunk and banging barely stopped then the next day screaching I just took them off to replacd and the pad fell off like yours.
I installed these on a 2013 corolla & 2017 camry each time had noticed the dust that these pads created for only being on the cars for less then a month & made squeeling noises they claim these pads are ceramic that I really doubt being ceramics are not suppose to creat much dust at all & looking at the pads there is much metal shavings in the pads that shouldnt be if they truely are ceramic.. when I went back to factory oem toyota pads didnt have any problems at all, they are 28$ more per set but had no problems whatsoever as saying goes you get what you pay for...
Watch "What Are The Best Brake Pads?" on here there's a red hot rotor showing on the cover picture. They do a test for what happened to your pad. I've never seen that happen and was thinking about buying these but will avoid them based on your video, thanks!
@@NoneMechanic101 I've heard that also, Scotty on here swears by them. I've used Raybestos ceramic Element3 for many years and find them to be excellent except for a bit of dust on 3 different cars they stop really well. I put Akebonos on my sons car and I don't recall seeing much dust, they stop really well, I like how they grab. Also, in the test that I pointed out the only ones that were zinc plated were the very expensive brand being promoted AND the OEM pads. OEM is usually quite excellent because they want to give the impression of a good car and avoid lawsuits if something goes wrong.
I'll get the old one's together and try at add a photo for you. I've had them fall apart from the box and when I was changing them just thaught it was the heat
Let me get this straight. You been having this problem for 2 years and 4 months ago you changed your brakes with the same brakes that you been having problems with? Wow sounds like my dad....yells at the computer on why it's so slow but yet doesn't go buy a new one that's different and better. If that really happened, that could have happened to any pad because they are all made the same way because all these manufacturers share the same specs and I'm sure there is a 1 in a million chances someone might have faulty brake pads just like when SOME people have a recall on their car but not everyone.
@5 minutes alone -- Curious what your thoughts would be about why the 2UZ-FE Toyota Tundra has a free warranty for the Secondary Air Injection system -- but yet the exact same engine, Secondary Air Injection System & parts are actively *rejected* by all Toyota Corporate officers, for the Toyota 4Runner? Based on your response, I am assuming that your expectation is that all people who own Toyota 4Runners with 2UZ-FE motors should immediately buy a different car?
yea, I agree It's like throwing parts at a problem before knowing what the problem really is. I would have tried anothe brand or had a second opinion first. It's like my old man putting brand new parts on a 20 year old lawnmower with NO compression! I told him it was that muffler bearing ;)
I'm hoping this helps you, as I've had a lot of experience using both cheap and expensive brake pads, & rotors. Your failure looks straight forward as a manufacturing defect. I am assuming that since the pad material (the ceramic "cake") fell out while you were driving -- that when you pushed the brakes, the metal barbs *that should be* there to provide a mechanical lock for the ceramic cake during manufacturing -- were destroyed when you continued to drive the car and applied your brakes (metal on metal contact at that point), in order to reach AutoZone. This itself is a fairly rare defect, one which occurs very infrequently. There are people out there who have this happen to them, as you've unfortunately had to experience -- but I am unaware of enough people who have had this happen to them with all manufacturers brake pads, much less this particular brand. I don't believe you have a plausible cause of action for a class action lawsuit. Even if you buy some of the most aggressive street brake pads for your car, (such as Hawk HPS) -- they are manufactured the same way, and unlike Duralast Gold pads; those HPS pads *DID* have the ceramic cake *CRACK* from the amount of heat they generated after only 4 months of usage. They did not separate from the backing though. My recommendation to you, is two-fold. First, I empathize with you and your daughter for the stressful and fear-inducing situation you experienced; but unfortunately this is real life. Manufacturers and engineers are not able to provide you with 100% perfect products, so things like this can, and in your case -- *do* -- happen. Secondly, I would not pursue "better" or other brake pads/rotors -- you will not find your solution there. My personal recommendation, after having bought everything far and in-between -- is to just buy the brake pads from the car manufacturer. *YES -- YOU READ THAT CORRECTLY: BUY THE PADS YOUR CAR MANUFACTURER PRODUCED THE CAR WITH* . First off -- I have found that the cost of brake pads from an online retailer for the manufacturer, is the same, or *EVEN LESS* than the cost of aftermarket brake pads from AutoZone. Second -- the OEM pad is designed to provide your ABS system with the best performance. I have bought amazing brake pads that improved my stopping distance, only to find out in the winter that my car could not stop because the ABS system was unable to work with that brake setup. Overall: stick to OEM. Best peace of mind knowing you are buying a product designed for your particular car, which the manufacturer's engineers chose during their multi-million dollar R&D endeavor to produce your car.
Sounds like what happens to my car, brake pad on inside was missing. I assumed I drove over something entering the driveway, the next day, I went 1 block heard the metal.
NASCAR isn't anything to be proud of for brakes. How many times do you see them use their brakes making left hand turns? Hardly ever... Mostly full throttle on slanted tracks. lol
