Head up folks, I bought a OEM spec Diamond D1 off the DVO website. There was definitely blue loctite on the airspring cartridge nut, the one that requires the pin spanners.
FYI Bobby at DVO advises (May 2023) to use a THICK grease on the OTT/NEG springs, not Slickoleum/Slick Honey. He says a thicker grease resists washout by bath oil better, and keeps the springs working smoother. Maxima Waterproof grease is a solid recommendation. Note: this is one Maxima product actually recommended for DVO products; the suspension oils contain seal conditioners that mess with DVO seal happiness. Bobby also says "You are going to want to put a pretty liberal amount of it on the spring." If you've noticed they're coming with more grease on them from new, that's probably because DVO has found that to work better and changed the factory spec. This isn't one of those "came from the factory with way too much grease in the air spring" situations-- there's no equalization port or air negative spring to clog up with grease-- metal springs like grease.
@@jesseleachman7801 D2 has OTT, but it's internal and 3 steps instead of many turns. Haven't had a D2 airspring open so not sure what the internal layout looks like. Give DVO a call-- I've found them very helpful!
Thanks for the tutorial. Fixin to do this myself, it does not look too difficult at all. I was thinking you should have more subscribers for such a well done vid. So I subbed...
does the Axel to crown reduce along with the travel when adding in the spacers? I can't seem to fine this information and numbers associated with travel adjustment, Thanks
Is this a similar process for the Beryl d2? Tech sheet on dvo for setting up sag states (diamond/beryl) and on the OTT and travel adjust sheet it states to move a pin rather than adding or removing clip on spacers so not entirely sure without opening them up!
Torque for Top Cap is actually 15 Nm and if all oil is drained from lowers add back in 25cc to each side of 7.5wt oil, from approved DVO manufacturers only!
hey bud, good content. I just have a question, correct me if I'm wrong but to my understanding these are travel reducers, meaning that they would reduce our overall travel, the overall size of stanchion (length) will remain the same. So what is the purpose of the these ravel reduction pins, they wont change the length of the fork so the geometry will stay the same, there wont be any benefit of smaller forks for example better pedaling, wouldn't then these be pointless and make you just bottom out on the descent ?
The spacers actually reduce the height of the topout i.e. how far the lowers can drop out of the stanchions, so they reduce A2C height of the fork and affect bike geometry as you'd want them to. They move the little topout spring further away, so each spacer reduces the point where the topout spring starts to engage (and the final topout point) by 10mm. It's a little hard to visualize, but if you play with the air spring out of the fork it starts to make sense.
Excellent video. I haven't done this yet but is there a reason you don't screw the adjuster in at 4:00 ? - Would have thought just hitting while not engaged may damage the thread ?
Oh FFS why don't DVO use this as the video on their website? I swore at that lockring on my brand new fork for hours, tried 150psi in the fork etc etc. and still haven't got it off, and am just about ready to return the air shaft for a replacement as I've already worn the flats trying in vain to get it off. I was reluctant to insert anything in those holes as it's clearly soft alloy and will get damaged pretty easily. Same for the oil, just like you say I followed their video and was just a little faster than you removing the cartridge, so I got a wave of oil coming out everywhere which they don't warn you of. I should have known never to trust official tech videos 😔
Also, they say 15cc of oil to replace! I'm pretty sure I caught more than 15cc in a jar, lost about 10cc on the bench and there's still more in the fork. 25cc must be right.
Hello Chris, Sorry to hear you've had issues... I have definitely been there before so I completely understand. The guys at DVO are pros and as we know, pros make it look easy! My Hope's with this video were to do it from an average Joe perspective and list all the tools you'll need so you dont end up stuck in the middle. I also confirmed with DVO on the oil amount for the lowers and they confirmed 25cc.
@@MrDjindian Cheers, and a great idea to do this video. Unfortunately for whatever reason me using a pin spanner didn't work, perhaps mine is even tighter than yours was, and by the time I'm getting any decent force on it the green end cap starts deforming, so now I have a damaged air cartridge. I am a professional bike mechanic and while fork servicing isn't something I do that regularly, I know how to apply force carefully, have good tools etc etc. I'm just disappointed that DVO clearly market their forks on the average Joe taking them apart and tuning them, and the fact the travel spacers come in the box and they provide a "how to" leads people into a false sense of security. So now I'm completely stuck, can't get it off, can't run the fork on my bike, probably can't get a new air cartridge (distribution is shocking in the UK).
Worst bit is, a few days after I bought mine from the UK, (non-returnsble due to Covid-19) DVO started a sale on their site and I could have bought the same fork ready adjusted for $50 less even with import duty. 😤
I feel your pain. Same thing happened when I went to change travel on my new Diamond this year. I somewhat mangled the slots in the green cap, and broke a pin on a snap ring plier. Eventually got it off, only to find that the black ring had been loctited at the factory! Try a hair dryer to soften the loctite, and rather than a wimpy snap ring plier with replaceable tips, use a forged 90 degree needlenose plier.
