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Dy(e)ing to Use a 550-Year-Old Recipe From Ireland 

McNerdy Makes
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Hi, everyone! I'm so happy to finally bring this project to life. I just started my journey in the Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) and I am absolutely fascinated with medieval Ireland. I decided to use this 1566 historical recipe featuring poplar, arbutus bark and saffron to recreate the dye to the best of my ability. My eventual plan is to recreate a medieval Irish persona from the 15th century with several pieces of hand-sewn clothing to complete the look. This was my first time using a natural dye and I was definitely not expecting how well this came out. The eight yards of fabric dyed in this experiment will be used to create the iconic Irish leine, the base garment for the complete 15th century look.
Special thanks to ‪@SewBiased‬ and ‪@kieraoona‬ for their massive encouragement and love.
Link to my research paper: docs.google.com/document/d/12...
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Chapters:
Intro- 00:00-00:58
The Leine- 00:59-2:38
History of the Recipe- 2:39-4:26
Searching for the Original- 4:27-5:14
Starting the Recipe- 5:15-5:34
Poplar Bark- 5:35-7:02
Arbutus Bark- 7:03-8:12
Salt- 8:35-8:51
Saffron- 8:52-9:40
Test Swatch Methods- 9:41-11:34
Fixatives- 11:35-14:20
Test Results- 14:21-17:09
Main Fabric Dye- 17:10-22:00
Final Reveal- 22:01-22:08
Sneak Peek- 22:09-23:11
Music From Epidemic Sound

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25 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 52   
@kieraoona
@kieraoona Год назад
Glad to help out with the project! I still can't get over how YELLOW that turned out!
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
Thank you! It’s definitely a gorgeous color
@amelinabellemont2722
@amelinabellemont2722 Год назад
Didn't think I would feel so invested in some yellow fabric
@manatoa1
@manatoa1 Год назад
Congratulations! Saffron is really such a happy colour.
@dross24MA
@dross24MA Год назад
Runner up?!? First: Huzzah! Huzzah! Huzzah! Second: Why runner up - what could have been more original and thorough than this?! Third: Congratulations again and thanks for doing this!
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
Thanks! And the guy that won absolutely deserved his prize lol. He forged an axe with only hand tools and hand ground the edge onto it. It was a gorgeous and impressive piece 😊 but if I can finish the leine by April, maybe I have a shot this year!
@dross24MA
@dross24MA Год назад
@@McNerdyCostumesandProps GO FOR IT -- can hardly wait to see the results!!!!!
@ladybugdancer97
@ladybugdancer97 Год назад
The fabric turned out so amazing! I can't believe how yellow it is. Thank you for taking us with you down your rabbit hole of research. I'm looking forward to the next part in this project and to any other projects you make!
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
Thank you so much! I can hardly believe the color myself 😂
@cynthiasuhr9983
@cynthiasuhr9983 8 месяцев назад
Navajo blanket dye method studies direct one to longer dye pots under ground urine worth a new look back at how they did the fibers.
@SewBiased
@SewBiased Год назад
So glad it turned out so well!!!
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
Thanks, Melissa! You’re the best! 🥰
@NouriaDiallo
@NouriaDiallo Год назад
Arbutus unedo is not protected outside of Ireland, where its isolated population is a remnant of the warmer climate of early holocene. It is abundant around the western Mediterranean, on the northern coast of the eastern Mediterranean, and on the Atlantic shore from Britanny to Portugal. You can also buy it as an ornemental shrub (or small tree in the south), which I understand is quite popular in California and along the west coast. It deals well with pruning and even coppicing, so you may well be able to source some.
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
Wow that’s amazing! From my research I was understanding that the madroño or pacific madrone was the ornamental version and it was the menzeisii variety but maybe I’ll see if I can find something that works for here. Unfortunately I live in the most central state in the US and it’s many hours of driving to get to salt water and I gathered that arbutus needs the salty, sea air 😂 thanks for the tips!
@NouriaDiallo
@NouriaDiallo Год назад
@@McNerdyCostumesandProps I was hoping you could get help from a West Coast viewer. I have one in my courtyard here near Paris, from my grandparents' garden. The fruits don't mature, but otherwise it is pretty well acclimated. It was the one plant that looked thriving during the heat waves. I guess it wouldn't withstand hard continental winters. It withstand salt but doesn't require it, resist fires, or even appreciate them, which must be a plus for California. It is much more rustic than a citrus, as long as the soil is well drained. Mine has been in a big pot for nearly 20 years. Wikipedia says it does well in a hardiness zone of 7 or warmer if it means anything to you (USDA scale).
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
Wow thank you so much! I’d have to move it indoors or keep it on a sunporch. It would not tolerate my zone 4-5 climate. But now I know what to put on my Christmas list 😂
@DaisyViktoria
@DaisyViktoria Год назад
This is so cool! I'm very excited about the whole project!
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
Thanks, Daisy! I’m super stoked too! My poor fingers disagree from all of the hand sewing, though 😂
@elewysoffinchingefeld3066
@elewysoffinchingefeld3066 Год назад
So....a couple things. :D Saffron is notoriously light fugitive, so that gorgeous color might not last. :( I understand that birch leaves can make a lovely saffron-yellow dye. I'll have to look to see if I can find the info on that that I came across a couple years ago. Unfortunately, some fungus beetle is killing all the birch trees around here, so I don't know if I can do that experiment myself. :( Also, I *will* be in Rome but only for a day and with my family, so time is of the essence. If it's something I can just pick up and bring back, I'm your girl. If I have to spend hours in a museum taking 100 photos of a book, I might not have the ability to help.
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
Hi, Elewys! I’ve been pretty careful to keep it out of the sunlight for now but I’m expecting to have to redye it at some point. At least it fades cleanly 😊. And thanks! Unfortunately the archive doesn’t want to take 100 photos of a book either so that’s why they told me to do it lol. So it looks like you’ll just get to spend the day with your family lol. But I hope you have an amazing time!!!
@dross24MA
@dross24MA Год назад
Are the birch leaves in place of one of the bark/leaf species or both/all of them?
@inarticulateverbosity5599
@inarticulateverbosity5599 Год назад
Just a note, if you're not particular about your tannins, Tea is a good source and a lot easier to obtain. Also it should be noted that Tannins and Iron oxide (rust) make a deep black colour. I have soaked wood in tea and then in rusty water to stain the wood black.
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
Wow I would have never considered using tea as a wood stain, that’s cool!
@robintheparttimesewer6798
@robintheparttimesewer6798 Год назад
This is beautiful and brilliant. Also those trees are so very weird loosing the bark. First time I saw one after moving to British Columbia I was confused. I kept thinking the winter wasn’t that bad and how did the deer get the bark that high up?!? Being in the way back time before internet it took a while to figure out!
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
Oh, man! That would be so confusing! I was so happy to learn all I could about this tree. I could write a whole research paper just about arbutus 😂
@historical.isolde7918
@historical.isolde7918 Год назад
I shared this with my local SCA chapter and others were very impressed!
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
Thank you so much! Currently partway through construction and it’s nerve-wracking cutting into the most expensive fabric I’ve ever held in my life 😂
@Challis2070
@Challis2070 Год назад
Oooo! I've been wanting to get back into the SCA and my plan has been for an Irish persona, so this is some great stuff. (My Irish language skills are a bit bad, but I've been working on it, hopefully it'll help make the persona more real as a side effect!)
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
That’s wonderful to hear! I have lots of plans for Irish garments both masculine and feminine for my persona for the upcoming year 🥰
@williambailey8905
@williambailey8905 Год назад
Gardenia seed contains the same dye component as saffron - crocin and it’s a lot cheaper.
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
Wow thanks! I’ll have to look into that one. I have no desire to spend that much again lol
@williambailey8905
@williambailey8905 Год назад
You should take the ingredient list with a grain of salt. A modern recipe will give the best color. I’ve dyed medieval colors and some of the old ideas make sense and some are just ignorance. I am very impressed with your efforts.
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
You mean smearing pig fat all over someone’s face won’t *actually* cure their common cold? Madness! 😂 that is very true and I’m hoping to understand the science behind all of this. However, as you pointed out, maybe I should prepare myself for the possibility that there is no scientific answer. Darn. Lol
@williambailey8905
@williambailey8905 Год назад
There is a story from the medieval era of a dyer struggling to get the color he desired, in desperation, tossed in a dead cat. The cat was symbolic of his desperation and not an actual ingredient.
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
600 years later in a research paper: “cats were commonly used in dyeing recipes in the 15th century due to the high acidity of the animal. Also it was a religious relic.” 😂
@ramblingkern
@ramblingkern Год назад
Obair Iontach. This is superb and a clear example of why saffron was preffered. With the cost of saffron many people do not believe me when I talk about its popularity as you showed you can get other results but not to the same level. On a side note linen can react badly to acidic environments so possibly why some of the mixes did not do as well.
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
Thank you so much for the info! I’ve got a lot of information and theories about the sumptuary laws that I didn’t get a chance to go over. One of them being that Henry got sick of the English coming home broke from trying to keep up with the saffron fashion and went through the whole smear campaign with the popularity of it being used to “ward off lice.” 😂 acidity is a possibility but I wish I would have put the pieces in the containers with some of the actual dye bath. That might have helped and I could have played around with ratios. But I’m going to experiment more with the cottonwood and arbutus and see if I can get a base yellow color as well. I suspect I might not have used enough of either one.
@ramblingkern
@ramblingkern Год назад
@@McNerdyCostumesandProps you will find a lot of the English sources need to be taken with a lot of scepticism as they are an invading colonial force trying to make the locals into the savage or Wilde Irish as they called them. I am very excited to see how your project goes as I wanted to do this myself in the new year so this gets a lot of the legwork done for me haha.
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
😂 glad to be of service! Unfortunately I’ve had to take a lot of the sources ‘with a grain of salt.’ But hopefully I’ve gathered everything into a representation that makes sense. Fair warning, for some of it I have nothing other than descriptions in the Tain and other earlier sources for my design, along with things being done in areas nearby. But hopefully I can do Ireland proud with a proper, pretty garment 🥰
@ramblingkern
@ramblingkern Год назад
@@McNerdyCostumesandProps I am sure it will turn out superb at least with the Leine we have a ton of artistic references for them.
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
I’m still deciding whether to make mine hooded or not 😂
@catherinejustcatherine1778
@catherinejustcatherine1778 Год назад
Some of the reasons why people who aren't compatible with intensive research still want to watch a historical dyeing video (Extant) Issues with the language &/or delivery of "lecture"-style talking Visual &/or experiential learners Can't afford to go to recreational events &/or can't afford the time, supplies, physical movements, to do the work themselves, so, want to at least watch them done (may) already have researched on their own, perhaps written a dissertation or more on the subject (and/or have done the experiments themselves) And are enthusiastic about seeing someone (else) do the experiment
@erincoyle1637
@erincoyle1637 Год назад
I would love to learn more about how the whole outfit is constructed. It's absolutely beautiful. Will you be selling the "how to construct" and patterns for it?
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
That’s the goal! Just need to figure out how to digitize the pattern and make it available for everyone and technology is not my strong suit! Lol
@cadileigh9948
@cadileigh9948 Год назад
re amonia, most product containing amonia come from urine collected in Chineese mens prisons. Given the unethical factor involved surely it's more sensible to use your own and not outsource your squemishness. I save most of my urine to use on my compost heap and grow healthy vegetables
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
I wasn’t aware of the unethical behavior surrounding ammonia, thank you! I have been looking into using it in the future and have seen the really interesting videos on processing human waste for closed loop gardening. It’s absolutely fascinating!
@wnvelslucas2794
@wnvelslucas2794 Год назад
On Cottonwood: It's even better than an "acceptable substitute" for "Poplar." What we call Poplar is fully "Tulip Poplar" and has the scientific name of Liriodendron tulipfera and doesn't grow in Europe. Genus Populus includes P. sergentii (Great Plains Cottonwood), P. deltoides (Eastern Cottonwood), and P. nigra (Black or Lombardy Poplar). This last being the "Poplar" referred to in Medieval European contexts, and the only species native to Europe. Correcting the confusion between "American Tulip Poplar" with the referenced "European Poplar" has become something of a personal crusade. There was a rather heated discussion with a curator at the Philadelphia Museum of Art some years back that started it off.
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
Such great info, thanks! P. nigra would have been ideal of course but P. deltoides was the choice I made specifically for tannin content. I wasn’t aware until I started this research that black poplar was the only one available. Since I know you’ll know the answer: what would be an acceptable local woodworking substitute for texts referencing poplar? I suppose it would probably depend on the application but it’s specifically mentioned in my chariot work for its flexibility.
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
Also on personal crusades: I’ve been waiting to drop knowledge bombs on anyone that insists that saffron wasn’t grown in Ireland or that the same color can be achieved with a variety of other herbs. I may still make a video out of that 😂
@wnvelslucas2794
@wnvelslucas2794 Год назад
​@@McNerdyCostumesandProps Eastern or Great Plains Cottonwood are both good choices as far as structure and flexibility are concerned. The grain structure and effective strength vs flexibility of the wood is rather consistent across the entire genus. The largest obstacle is that Cottonwood is largely considered "trash wood" and isn't cultivated for lumber in the US. It's wonderfully light and tough, but doesn't take on a good surface finish and reeks of ammonia when cut or burned. When it is found, it'll be from some tree that was felled and milled out by a small local mill operator. It is available though. I've a couple sources in the KC area and have worked in it quite a bit.
@emiliotorres-roseberry6575
@emiliotorres-roseberry6575 Год назад
I mean........ you don't necessarily have to pee in a bucket for a few weeks. According to some 18th century recipes I've read cow urine works pretty well (there's another obscure expense for ya. Lol)
@McNerdyCostumesandProps
@McNerdyCostumesandProps Год назад
Trying to imagine standing behind a cow, figuring out when to jump forward with a bucket 😂 but that’s a really cool bit of information that I’d have never thought of, thank you! My future plans are to study some more of the chemical analysis of the components of stale urine and find a more accurate substitute. If anyone ever peruses my Google search history they’d probably be supremely concerned for my mental state 😂
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