ShopJimmyO.com Support the build!! / jimmyoakes / jimmyoakes Send some sub mail!! Jimmy Oakes PMB 169 61 N. Plains Industrial Rd. Wallingford, CT 06492
For starters, the exhaust rubbing on the dyno roller WILL affect the results. Your power picking up on every run is probably due to the exhaust clearance itself as metal gets rubbed away and the rollers get easier to turn.
Pronounce it like the word noisy but instead of "s" use "z" letter Noizy, and can be written like you already did.... So i like your name idea for the Noi-Z 🙂
@@brokeblasian You don’t really notice chatter when you’re driving around. It is annoying in a drive-thru or at a red light because people think your car is about to blow up. Mine is also in a MK6 GTI.
@@brokeblasian you only hear the chatter really when your sitting at idle in traffic or something i have a stage 3 6 puck and 17 pound flywheel with full interior and and exhaust i cant hear it unless i have my door open worth a little noise forsure
simplistic garage LLC dual throttle bodies upgrade, upgrade couplers and sai tubes to fit, and two hx-n2 MAF Sensors and you're set. did this to mine, this year!
When you first started it was dragging the exhaust really bad which was causing lag on the pull that made it look like you had less power each time you made another run it freed it up more and caused it to show more power each time
A stock HR makes like 250 torque. So if your logic is correct it should have been making like 170 while the exhaust was scrubbing and then as it wore down it moved up to a max of 250 torque. But it didn't, it kept moving up and up to what, like 320 torque? I agree that problem was most likely the exhaust scrubbing, but there has to be more going on with the dyno and false readings not just that the exhaust wore down and the Zs true numbers came out.
You have the intakes installed backwards. with aftermarket intakes, the MAF sensor is supposed to be on the bottom. That should help with the clearance.
Hrs/vhr have good manifolds from the factory because they hold heat well, my car doesn’t actually run good until I drive it 20-30mins give or take. They like running in a sweet hot spot. Stock tune 07 HR
I was born in Road Island but raised in Norwich/Groton Connecticut. Got to salty and tired of the 1 to 3 feet of snow every year and had to moved to Virginia Beach, Virginia. The only thing I miss is foxwoods and papa Gino's.
There is a good theory pointed out many others that the exhaust rubbing away is creating less resistance, thus reading more HP/TQ. Correct me if I’m wrong on this. Another theory I have is the Main Base Timing (MBT) is increasing on its own due to less knock threshold each run. Then relieving the airflow restrictions with the aftermarket intake leads to less knock threshold, therefore more timing automatically added for more power. I’m not totally familiar with tuning this platform, but from my (very) small experience with tuning Nissan/Infiniti, this is a viable theory.
Get a roll of sticky backed 1/8 in. "hard" rubber for any contact points on the new intake. You can cut to size and the hard rubber will last for a while. I get it from Nashville rubber and gasket here and I'll bet there's some place similar in Conn. Z-bois about to ride!
Damn jimmy you got the tiny boys should have went 3inch intakes tbh but at the end of the day like you said they was your only option and your drifting not looking for crazy horse pups!
I rewatched the beginning of the video and found the Frenchie finishing his doo-doo on camera @ 0:17 🤣 I have 2 French bull dogs and they dump everywhere. Especially inside if it’s raining lol
There is a german channel that dyno tests A LOT of stock cars and they always make more power on the second pull. Working theory on that channel is, that its because of the fan that keeps running between runs and therefore the engine gets a lot of cooling doesnt pull any timing at all
Back in 2003 I bought a 350 when they first hit the US. Went to a dyno day that weekend. Made 237 wheel… (287 flywheel from factory I think is what Nissan reports/non hr) how tf are you seeing 300 and saying “yea it’s stock”. Factory the “hr” comes with 306 flywheel hp… how are you getting those numbers with zero drivetrain loss? I mean it’s cool 😎 just doesn’t compute. Thx for the content. ❤️
Diy twin turbo kit for the z , Johnny pipes can make headers or you can weld them yourself, and learn to weld , do something to make it quite, turbo charger , air to water intercooler and custom ecu, so the z will be quite with good power
I've a engineered cold air plenum under the front rail of my R33 GTR. It then runs into a cold air ram to a cold air box surrounding the pod. When the weather is cold it increases intake noticeably. 👊
I think you're getting more power each run because you're wearing further through the exhaust and it doesn't have to work as hard to grind out the exhaust
YOOOO What if the exhaust rubbing was slowing it down and the more you guys ran it and grinded through the less it restricted the rollers and therefore resulted in the slow increase in power XD
I suggest a: Clutch Lightened flywheel Jim Wolf Cam Gears Jim Wolf Springs and Retainers Z1 Plenum Spacer Z1 Valve Guides Z1 Power Intake Mani Z1 Ported Lower Intake Mani
On my g37 I did a slightly custom exhaust that in my opinion(and a few others) was one of the better sounding VQ exhaust set ups. I did Megan Y pipe(cheap-o I know lol), mated to Greddy Revolution Single Exit and had a pretty nice quality 6” resonator welded in between the resonator that comes on the Greddy and the y-pipe. It created a decently deep tone and didn’t have that typical VQ trumpet noise at higher RPM with very little rasp and the best part of all… NO DRONE. I think that whole set up with labor ran me about 900 tops
Hahahah jimmy out here dragging the coast with the z on the dyno, Jimmy you also can cut up a bicycle tube and slide a small piece in between the hard pipe and the strut bar!! It won't rub through it
TIP OF THE DAY:What you need to do is go down to a couple of your local firestations and ask if you can have their expired 2.5 inch firehoses and cut off the end couplers and you got yourself some of the best line insulation and wrap for around metal pieces to keep from rubbing.
More lenght and smaller diameter tube affect air velocity and usually generate more mid range torque. As long as the air is nice and cool should make more but if air gets hot propably makes less than on stock intakes
that vq needs the extra air flow for sure. the small pipe size is for response of a na engine. the bigger pipes would have lost power without a tune. not un common from a factory very restrictive box to reduce noise. not a fluke
I had a G37s and had both stillen and takeda intakes and only spot that was an issue is on driver side a/c line from the vibrations wore a hole thru my ac line but they worked great, im surprised it doesnt come with a bracket to hold the filters still, the stillen ones where definitely stiller because it has the one long filter
@Chris W epa fucking w everything. I was lucky and got one right before they stopped making them. Might be easier to get a one used at this point. Not sure when they’ll start making them again :/
@Chris W I definitely got lucky. Sorry to hear you won’t be able to experience the shockwave though. Whatever’s next for you will be better I’m sure 🤙🏼
I have the Dual Injen CAI, and I'll admit, they seemed crammed near the radiator. I wasn't a fan of them, but they sound good when I push it to 6000 RPM or higher. The car seems to get a nice push around that area.
If it has test pipes on it already without a CEL, it was more than likely tuned as they normally disable the post-cat O2 sensor in the tune. VQ's normally will do better with stock airboxes than the short ram intakes, but there is typically another bump when you make the jump from air boxes to long tube intakes so it sort of makes sense. If temp in the shop dropped too that would help the numbers too in my mind.
@@AudibleVisibIe you do realize the sun set in the time they installed the intakes right? Northern climates during the winter you’ll get a fairly drastic temp change once the sun sets but IAT’s directly effect timing so if it dropped 5-10 degrees, it could completely lead to better numbers.
You wouldn't believe the amount of quiet you can get on a loud car by putting on a reduction down turn on the end of the muffler, and you could always remove it later when you get a proper exhaust. If you get an adapter to go from whatever the exhaust is 3" or 2.5" and bring it down to 2" and put a down turn on it, it's like 90% quieter its crazy. I have evidence on my own channel of doing this with a straight pipe car that was driving me crazy. It took away all the drone and the majority of the annoying noise.
Trust me tune makes a major difference on VQs 340 AEM fuel pump better injectors headers and you should of done 3inch intakes and you'd be a happy camper also you can adjust the limiter on UpRev
A cold air intake can make a big power improvement IF you have a totally free flowing unrestricted exhaust. That's where a lot of people get confused in the debate. On a stock car a CAI will only make so much difference because the exhaust is still bottlenecked. Well when you have a straight flow exhaust, now the intake is the bottleneck, so when you put on a CAI *then* you will see surprisingly big power gains. I had a toyota matrix and I had it straight piped. When I unclipped the airbox (as a quick and dirty way to increase airflow in the intake) it made so much difference that I could chirp the tires in first and second gear, and also felt significantly more power in the higher rev ranges (where there is the most airflow and so airflow mods make the biggest difference at high rpm). And as soon as I clipped the airbox back together it no longer would chirp first and second and it felt like a dog above 3k rpm xD It really can make a huge difference but like I said the exhaust and intake both have to match with good flow, if you do one or the other you still get some bottlenecking going on.
Yeah so I got test pipes and catback put on my HR and it felt like it made ridiculous gains with the butt dyno but then full throttle higher revs it would miss. Got a service and they just found one of the air ducts was loose, they clipped it back in and instantly the power dropped. I figured it was getting more air making more power but at full throttle it got too much air for the ecu to adapt and started missing. Just means the intake is necessary for me now, wasn't planning on it! Aha