Very Good!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with us on video!! I believe this is going to help me greatly on my DC33 Full Floor Vacuum Cleaner!! My problem is that my vacuum cleaner brushroll is not engaging or spinning at all! I’ve been unable to figure out the reason for this problem. Since watching your videos I’m going to fully check out the Brushroll and all the parts within the area and surrounding it!! I appreciate your help and the detailed advice that you have provided here!! Sincerely Ray!!
Nice video. These are great vacs, Dysons best series as far as im concerned. Quick tip. I pull the entire canister out intact, and soak the whole thing in a mild citric acid and cool water solution overnight in a 5 gallon bucket. Rinse the next morning and air dry. Been working like a champ in a DC33 for years.
Got to love all the dust in the cyclones. I know many hate the bagless design for that factor. At least with Filter Queen when you dump it out all that goes with the cone.
@@ryanhawkins1235 Sebo are good but over 15 years you would spend well over £500 replacing the bags ..I have two old Dysons both over 15 years old and both together have only cost me £30 approx $ 40 plus new parts at £30
Good video - that is alot more in depth clean than some of the other vids ie washing out all the cyclones. TBH after 10-12 years of use, they deserv this level of maintenance. On another video, it does show you can change the belts separate to the clutch, which is a non-serviceable unit. Cleaning the hair out of the rollers is a grim job, at least washing the cyclone etc you can minimise the dust by keeping the units submerged. Its a well built and well designed machine IMHO. Cheers
Clutch is easily serviceable ..plus you can buy the white cog if that is worn out from Manchester Vacs in UK or eBay.same company under I.E .electronics .under $10 for cog plus two belts
Great video as always. You, compared to the other bench service guys on RU-vid are the very best. Could watch you all night working on vacs. I had a Dyson DC 25 ball and I hated it from the very first time I used it. Finally, I heard about Riccar and visited my local Riccar dealer in Warren, Ohio and he showed me a Riccar R40 P.6 and of course I fell in love with the Riccar. He took my Dyson in on trade and the rest is history. I have never been so happy than to have gotten rid of the Dyson for the Riccar. Pryor to the Dyson I had Hoover uprights from the 70s, but silly me I thought the Dyson would be better than the Hoovers. I WAS WRONG. I was always a Hoover guy since I lived so close to North Canton, Ohio Hoover plant. Sad what happened to Hoover over the years, but now we have Riccar and I am extremely happy with my Riccar. Thanks for another enjoyable video, Matt. John in Ohio.
Very helpful video, sometime figuring out how to get these apart is tricky. I regularly wash my cyclone canister out, I don’t take it apart, I just run water through it till it runs clear. Then let it air dry a day or two. When I took it apart just now it was very clean in there! I’m deeming that effective for fine dust 😊 (It’s been extremely dirty in the past.) I’m a little confused on the HEPA filter. The filter does say lifetime on it. Not sure it I should change it or not, it doesn’t looks terrible and it’s over 10 y/o old. I had a clog so maybe I will just leave it alone.
Thanks for the comment! The key with the cone rinsing is to dry it out like you do. I've seen so many people just slap it back together wet and that makes for trouble! Have you ever washed the HEPA before? If not, give that a try. If you have washed it frequently and you can see any deformities in the pleats, areas where the pleats are laying over, or spots in-between the pleats that you can't wash dirt out of it would probably be best just to replace it.
I am a Dyson service tech u can replace the clutch belt the skinny one on the clutch and if you have my skills u can replace both belts on the clutch makes a huge difference in brush performance
Ah, but I do have your skills and can replace the belts! But the issue there is my time. I charge $80/hr for repairs and at that rate, it is easier/cheaper to just replace the clutch pack.
@@David-vx5tk I guess it shows how long it's been since I replaced one! They aren't available directly from Dyson but are still readily available online. Cheers!
@@franzconstancio1127 it will definitely need new belt or belts ..they stretch and disintegrate and the white cog will wear out in the clutch.. Also a new brush head will be needed to ..
@@stuartchester6899 I actually had a vacuum repair person take care of it a couple years back. It's been working like a charm. He just unclogged a portion of the suction and cleaned the roller head.
Thank you for this video - its been very helpful. I have a DC33, and its generally fairly clean inside, the vortex's are ok, and the filters are washed regualrly - the problem that I have is that the washable (cloth) filter gets clogged with dust and hair *immediately* after being cleaned and reinserted on first use! The suction significantly reduces as soon as the filter becomes this clogged and dirty. Therefore, I have to remove and wash the filter after every single vacuum use... I just don't understand why this filter is becomming this clogged with crud immediately and so quickly? Before anyone suggests it, I don't live on a farm, and don't have a dirty house with dirty carpets!
@richarddavis1988 what you describe is not something that anyone should put up with. It isn’t functioning properly. The only suggestion I can make is a question: have you ever replaced that filter to see if the old one is the problem? That machine doesn’t require washing the pre-filter each time you use it. Good luck!
I have a question. The first filter you show being removed (the one on the side) that must be filter number 3, yet everywhere seems to say they have 2 filters. I have even seen other videos saying this. I have a dc14 that im just about to take apart. I'll let you know 😂
Hey um i have a dc04 and got a pen sucked into it throught the hose that you use, is there anyway to get it out or know where it wouldve ended up because i cant find it anywhere?
Got a DC07 and a T15 torx screwdriver to remove cylinder cover but apparently the screws are tamper prove with a raised star in the middle any idea what screwdriver enjoyed the video
I have a DC33 and when installed the bottom of the cannister seems loose. It snaps in and the gaskets seems to line up but the bottom of the cannister can move around and seems not to be tight and/or secure and the suction is low. Any ideas on what to look for will be appreciated.
Thanks for the comment! Double check that the bottom dirt door has both seals on it. It should have one around the outer ring to seal against the clear bin and one on the inside to seal to the lower cone pack. It sounds like if you are seeing one the other might be missing.
The clutch is replaceable... Servicing it maybe not, but had to replace mine( done without special tools) . Replaced it 15 years ago. That the beater bar bearings and power switch is all i have done in 20 years. Don't use them on your wet dirty car/truck floors.
Very good video -/ I borrowed a friends dyson14 after cleaning it pretty good it worked good BUT I DUDNT GET INSTRUCTIONS -the canister is not staying in/ on HOW or what is the right way to take out canister & does it snap back in place??(no more borrowing )
Hi there! The dust bin has a red button on the top and that must be facing the handle. Drop the dust cups bottom on the motor then swing the top of the canister toward the handle until it latches. If it still won't latch, you may have a broken latch assembly. Thanks!
I do hope you're still getting comments. Turns out that first filter you removed is the filter my husband threw out. What is it called so I can buy a replacement?
Have a dc33 that was not picking up all of the bits off a carpet. Did all the things in the video but nothing worked. Eventually I came to the conclusion that the brushes were not making contact with the carpet. I discovered that the last time I cleaned the belt I misfitted the plastic brush cover. When I correctly fittedthe cover the brushes were back in contact with the carpet and the DC33 was back up and running. We all make mistakes, might save someone pulling their hair out.
Thank you for your video. I took apart my DC14 and there was no filter in the first compartment you showed. It seems smaller than the canister filter. Any chance you know the model number to order a new filter for that side compartment?
Glad that you found the video helpful! The pre-motor filter can be hard to find, Dyson's website doesn't even list it anymore. Instead, Google "EnviroCare F993". The F993 is a good quality replacement filter. Hope that helps!
Great video. We have a DC14 Animal that seems to be low on suction. There’s a lot of fabric stuck in the holes on the cylinder surrounding the cyclonic chamber, so I’ll start by cleaning that out. I’ve disassembled and cleaned it before, so it shouldn’t be too difficult. Some questions/comments: …1… There is no pre-motor filter to be found in the side chamber, even though it clearly looks like there should be one there. I don’t recall ever seeing one. There is a washable DC33 filter found in the top of the cyclone chamber, so perhaps the earlier ones had the pre-motor filter there. …2… The HEPA filter has these tabs that have to be pressed in with a slotted screwdriver, and, the filter within is a “lifetime” one. It is still rather clean after a dozen years, so who knows… maybe it is. …3… Does it help to wax the cyclone chamber (spray wax or wax paste)? I’m thinking that it will keep the dust off of it. Thoughts?
Thanks for watching and for the comment! Yes, if you have already checked for a clog and still have poor suction you likely are experiencing occluded cyclones above the cup. I would certainly start there if you can see debris. Depending on model/manufacturer date the pre-motor filter can either be located in the upper portion of the cup or in the chamber just prior to the motor intake. It doesn't really make a difference from a user experience or performance standpoint which location it is located. The lifetime HEPA is still designed to be washed. If you look at the documentation in the owners manual I think it will recommend every 3-6 months. If yours is in good condition, I would recommend washing it like you do your pre-motor filter. Even though particulate may not look bad, it is meant to eliminate super fine particles so it may be restricted without a major dirt buildup. As to the wax/spray... I've tried everything in dump cups including Pledge, synthetic auto wax, natural auto wax, and vacuum polish. Nothing at this point has helped keep the cups clean. They get dirty pretty much the moment you start vacuuming and stay that way. I don't know if that is because of static electricity buildup with the friction of the moving debris against the plastic... all I know is I haven't found something that works yet. Thanks!
@@HouseOfVacuums *Sucks!* After disassembling the bin and cyclone unit, it was obvious that loads of caked on detritus was basically making cyclonic action a pure fantasy. A garden hose removed most of the mess. That was followed by a good scrub with a toothbrush in warm water and dish detergent. Shook as much water out after another garden hose rinse and I let the whole assembly air dry over half a day. Treated all the rubber to a nice rubbing of plumber’s silicone. That seemed to restore it to the same suppleness it had when new (or at least what I imagine it to have been like. Result? Sucks so hard that I fear putting my hand too close to the nozzle in accessory mode. I love the design of the DC14. All the parts are “intuitively” oriented and logically placed. My only criticism is the choice of material. Then again, there is enough elastomer in the polymer that it is still rather supple after about 15 years. However, even LEGO gets brittle after 30 years… then again, if it was made of aluminum with screw on connections, it would be a $3,000 vacuum… *Disassembly woes.* I have never been able to separate the lower cone from the perforated basket. I could try a hair dryer to warm up the ABS, but as the connection points are turning white they are very stressed and I don’t want to break them. I can see inside and get it rather clean anyways. I’ve seen people resting the cylinder on a solid surface while striking the cone with a rubber mallet… I might try that next time. The other part is the lid on the bin. It is suggested to “hug” the bin to deform it and pull the lid off. I still think there is risk of the lid joint breaking, and I can clean it just as well with the lid on (just have to be more careful). *HEPA* It didn’t look washable, but it probably is. I’ll do that in the coming weeks. I need to be careful removing the lid as I have already broken one of the tabs. “Welded” it back on with some ABS solvent and the repair is strong, but probably should warm it up with a hair dryer first next time. *Wax on / Wax off.* Good to know. I didn’t think wax would do much. Once the very fine particulate matter adheres, it tends to snowball. *Next…* Time to look at your carpet cleaner recommendations.
@@farkinarkin5099disassembly woes: Using a rubber mallet to whack the cone seems to be an easy way to separate it, but the Brit who has a RU-vid complete disassembly and wash video did it in a similar way; but using his hand to push the cone in a down direction. It easily came apart that way. Using a screw driver inserted at the catch points seems to me the most dangerous, because it deforms the plastic the most. That cone really has to come off to get it clean inside. As to the bin release at the bottom, I got scared attempting to lever the clear plastic piece, as the Brit seemed to do so easily (but successfully), so I removed the rubber seal and washed the clear plastic bin without removing the bottom opening piece. Cleaned up pretty easily with soapy water. Then the problem was putting the rubber seal back on. That was a bugger, until I took a look at another DC33 and found that I was installing that gasket upside-down. Once I realized that, it was fairly easy to reinstall that gasket, so from now on I intend to do it this way and never chance breaking the attachment points, which means “go buy a new bin.”
@@billcowhig5739 Great timing, my friend. Yesterday was disassemble-and-wash the DC14 bin day! The areas around the female attachment of the bottom cone are a little too white and I fear that they may fracture with any additional stress. Fortunately, I’ve been quite successful in cleaning with a good dose of dish detergent. There is still some fine silty film inside but a good paint brush should loosen it up (and it reaches inside). Other than that, it looks rather clean inside. Re-assembly is tonight, so I have a rather sunny day to attempt some additional cleaning (for that 100% functionality). Yeah, that bin’s bottom lid is a bit of a leap of faith. Every year that passes, some polymer chains will break so the material gets more and more brittle. I may elect to do as you have, and, just remove the gasket without removing the lid. I wonder if LEGO would have designed that hinge with a less stressed snap-on insert like they do for their rotating shafts? *Re-assembly Mysteries* To make things easier, I usually take a bunch of photos during disassembly (usually to avoid the, “what the heck is this “spare” part scenario). I usually don’t need it, but sometimes it comes in handy when parts seem to fit in different ways. Dyson designs are rather good in that they make their parts only fit one way (check out the gaskets, their little slots are always a bit asymmetric). I like how they color-code their materials too. = = = = = 😁
@@farkinarkin5099 that’s something I usually do as well, the photos. Not this time, however, because I was following the Brit doing his complete tear down. My problems were where he did something a little fast, or didn’t fully explain something. Basically, he did quite well. When finished, there was one remaining seal. I looked in every obvious place. But could not find where it should go. So, I watched every second of his video where he showed disassembly of the main machine (not the vortex). Then I saw it as he took apart the pre-filter. At the very end of that segment, the last thing he took off was a seal. My leftover seal had the words “This Side Up” and “Do Not Remove” embossed on one side. The other was smooth. Then I figured that the smooth side should be facing the filter. But then, the words could not be read, which defeats their purpose. I agree with you that Dyson did a good job in their design of this machine. I understand that this one was their last upright prior to the “ball,” and that the ball is harder to disassemble, plus their earlier designs were of higher quality, so IMO, I am happy with my DC33. I’ve been puzzling out how the air flows inside the machine, so I can troubleshoot any suction problems. Am down to the region between the pre-filter and the exhaust (the holes around the HEPA filter lid). It seems to me that the Dyson design uses the space between the motor and its plastic outside body to channel the airflow, but maybe I am wrong. My main problem now is sourcing quality filters. There was one vendor on Amazon that advertised a more efficient HEPA filter, and showed a soft rubber seal like what was on the Dyson original, but showed it pasted to the wrong side. There was a reviewer who commented that he was mad because that gasket was glued to the wrong side, so I know something was wrong. I sent the seller a message asking about that problem, and had to go around twice before he told me that there is no gasket on the filters they currently sell. Dyson still has the pre-filter in stock, but not the HEPA. I recommend either replacing or repacking the two bearings in the beater bar (brush) when cleaning the machine. It is simple to open them up and finger pack grease in them to get them to roll again, but if something is not done to them the brush will struggle, causing the belts to slip, possibly, but surely putting extra stress on the motor.
@@margaretmartinez1398 I think that is the point the OP is making. Bagless machines are sold on convenience, but they are actually more work and more time consuming if you want to keep them cleaning properly.
Question ,how do you rate a vacuum cleaner on their ability to suck ,is it the wattage of the motor or is it a suction rating? And how do you tell what is what? When you are looking for a new vacuum cleaner?
That is a really complicated answer. There are so many ways to measure it... sealed suction, airflow/cfm, airwatts, working air flow. People get too caught up on power ratings like amperage and wattage. Ultimately, what I look for is a machine that uses the most efficient air pathway with a well matched motor. The issue with Dysons is that their air pathways are perhaps the most complex in the industry. Any kind of mild issue within it like slightly occluded filters, dirt in the cyclones or leaking seals (again, there are a lot of them) can drastically impact performance. Something simple like a Sebo X7, Sebo Felix, Riccar R25, etc are dead simple in their pathways and maintain their performance over time. A Dyson or Shark may beat them on performance numbers straight out of the box... but give it a year and that equation will be flipped on it's head. I'll try to make a video at some point delving into this further. Thanks for the question... I hope that helped!
@@HouseOfVacuums over 15 years of a Sebo life you would end up spending at least double what their Vacs cost ..using on average 10 bags a year ..800$ on bags maybe ..that's the economics of them
When you cleaned the beater bar, you did not remove it from the machine. If you had done that, and removed the end pieces, you would have seen hair and other debris tightly packed around the shaft. That gets tighter with time and puts resistance against the bar turning freely. And, while the shaft is out, there are cheap bearings at either end that can come out. Once out, take a very sharp or pointed tool and you can easily remove the grease caps. Once off, a finger full of grease can be packed into the ball bearing space (all grease was gone in my 10+year DC33) and then the bearings will begin to turn properly. Use a socket the size of the hole to seat the bearings back into place. My point is that when the machine ages a little, the two rubber belts stretch to the point where they can begin to slip, which should be considered normal. So any small additional resistance against the beater bar turning will likely cause the belts to slip. Conversely, any way to make the rotation of the beater bar easier is sometimes going to let existing belts do their work. You know, a job worth doing. . .
Replace the belts on the clutch and the white cog if it's worn out..the clutch is easily serviceable ..RU-vid vid how to do it .white cog is only available from Manchester Vacs UK or I E .electronics on eBay for £6.25 with the two belts needed ..easy job with the belt removal tool from eBay as well
@@khartleyfletcher2129 A vacuum cleaner that is located in either your garage or your basement and then it has tubes to go to outlets that you plug the hose into
@@VacMaster2020 now if it just shoots it straight outside, it'd be convenient. 😉 Just that the neighbors would know when you're vacuuming when they see the plumes of dust wafting over.
I found your instructional video very informative, but I've done everything on your video, even replaced the clutch and I still can't get any suction out of it. My 33 has never been very dirty because I cleaned it often. I know this vac real well but it really has me stumped. Ant help would be very much appreciated. Thank you.
Hi James! If you have ensure that there is airflow getting to the floor and the filters are clean, there are a couple other things to check. The first is to make sure that the nozzle base is sitting flat against the carpet. It sounds simple, but older Dysons can sometimes leave the nozzle base rakes about 30 degrees off the carpet. It is hard to see when you are standing behind it. The second thing to check is that the brush is not slowing down when it is engaging the carpet. If you hear an audible slowdown on carpet, your belt is slipping which can impact the cleaning on carpet a great deal. The only fix in that case is new clutch. I hope that helps!
Sorry I missed that! Did you check to make sure that the nozzle is laying flat on the carpet and not canted at an angle. On worn DC33 housings it is not common for them to hold the nozzle proud of the floor.
Correct, if fine dust makes it past the cyclones it will almost certainly make it past the foam filter and into the motor. In dusty areas it isn't really a matter of if but when.
Is it normal for warm air to leak (a lot) between the top of the HEPA filter housing and the bottom of the canister? (Sorry if that's a real dumb question!)
My DC 14 Animal has broken bin retainer catch/release handle part. Only see buying expensive entire bin assy offered. On my newer DC65 I was able to find just the red plastic release handle to replace. Might you have or can steer me to similar replacement release mechanism/handle parts for DC 14?? I'd be in your debt : )
Hey David! Unfortunately, the latch is only sold as part of the bin assembly. You could look for a used one on eBay, but otherwise you'll be buying the whole thing. Thanks!
Is there a vacuum you would recommend that handles the fine dust as well as larger debris such as whole cheerios or goldfish well? This mom of 3 is really curious lol
Good question! I have 5 year old twins and a 3 year old, so I can identify! Also, my Sebo E3 handles all those with no problem. From a budget side, Sebo also make the Dart upright which is affordable and can also easily handle that kind of debris. Let me know if you have any other questions!
i justbought a recondtioned one off ebay.through the hose the suction is very strong.but through the main bottom of vaccum is low suction.Looks like all the hoses etc connected so i dont get it.cant see any blockagages either.
Is it having trouble picking up on carpet? If that is the case, the belt on the clutch may be slipping. Listen to see if the RPM of the brush drops drastically when moving the vac from bare floor to carpet. Hope that helps!
@@HouseOfVacuums i figured out what the issue was.the lower hose is supposed to act as a spring and keep the sole plate flush with the floor .it wasnt doing this so it was always up at an angle.i changed the orientation and now it springs back.I think this could be common cause of suction issues.
@@ianpearson8976 My DC14 Animal has little or no suction using either the bare floor or carpet feature; fine through the hose. Would this perhaps be my issue, or do you only have the problem with carpeting? How do you change the orientation?
@@eltink53 you simply look underneath the bottom of the vaccum and twist the hose a little at the end until the footplate bounces back up when you press on it. It needs this to form a connection with the carpet. The hose is small one with wire inside it.
My really old and well-used DC14 Animal sucks GREAT at the hose, but little to no suction using as a floor vac. Off and on, it will work correctly. Have been through the whole thing, cleaned everything I possibly could (thank God for RU-vid videos!); the ONLY thing that seems "off" is the "pipe valve" (part number 904246-23); doesn't seem to fit as snugly as it should. Ordered a new one, so hoping that's the issue. Any ideas?
I have rebuilt them before as well. The problem is they are so labor intensive it is the same price to just pop in a new replacement clutch instead of folks paying me for my time.
I find that an air compressor or some other high power air blower can get them pretty clean and cut down on having to wash them significantly. Just slap on your respirator, wait for a breezy dayand get to blowing.
Rather than washing the filters, is there any value to using an air hose to clear out the dust? I work at an auto shop, and the shop's air hose is starting to look like a viable option for getting rid of the dust. 🙂
Hi Rachel! You can absolutely used compressed air! It will work great as long as it isn't strong enough to rip the filter media. Eventually you will still to wash it, but that can help you go long in-between.
@@HouseOfVacuums Good to know. That poor ol' thing looked like it was on its last legs! Dyson is a workhorse, for sure, especially in that environment.
Probably good to use a wet paper towel to clean up all the surface dust as a preliminary instead of sending it all airborne. Compressed air is the best to really get it all clean, should be a requirement for maintenance 👍
I was really enjoying this video until like most videos uploaded on here, you felt the need to add music, which then drowned you out and that's what killed it for me. You don't get music in the classroom, lectures or university, so why is it needed in an information / educational video? Best wishes
Well, I think it's kinda unfair making Dysons/ bagless cleaners looking bad as they need cleaning etc. In my opinion, person who let their vacuum look like this Dyson, would trash SEBO or Miele in the same way, not chaning the bag or filters.
Thanks for the comment! In this particular case, I do not think the criticism is unwarranted since the main problem area, the cyclone assembly, is not user serviceable. So if you are in a dusty environment it will create buildup regardless of how it is treated or maintained. That is the design flaw, as this machine may have been slightly neglected, but not abused. Cheers!
@@HouseOfVacuums you obviously don't know how cyclones work? They don't need to be user serviceable as they would get dirty after first use. Besides people don't wash fitlers. Do you think they would bother with cleaning cyclones? With normal use, they build up does not affect performance. I know people who still use DC07 or DC14 without any problems and they've had them since they were released.
Yes, I am completely aware of how the root cyclones in the Dysons work, I've been working on them since the first DC07s came to the States. The issue is buildup in the negative space of the lower cavity of the cyclone system. This happens regardless of how a Dyson is maintained, although maintenance can keep it from becoming overtly problematic. I guarantee if your friends who are using DC07 and DC14 models took their cyclones apart there would be buildup in the lower assembly. Again, the amount will vary on environment and how airflow has been maintained. This vacuum was actually a relatively mild example of the buildup your are likely to see. I've seen root cyclones completely occluded many times before. If you are ok with that funky, constantly festering dirt hanging out for years in your vac, more power to you. The fact remains, there is no way to clean it without a completely disassembly. Cheers!
@@HouseOfVacuums It doesn't affect performance in any way so I can't see it being a problem. Someone could say the same about keeping the bag in the vacuum for 2 months or so. I'd say it's even worse as there's only dust in cyclones. Bag contains all sorts of debris. When I had a Sebo Felix couldn't fill the bag even after 3 months but had to change it as it started to smell.
Ah, I think you just proved my point. Your Felix bag started to smell after 3 months so you changed it. What do you do when your cyclones smell funky? I know the dust in this video's Dyson smelled like a foot wrapped in mold. Therein lies the problem with the dust. The other debris is really a non-issue as it is equally disposed of in bagged and bagless machines. Only the bagless, particularly the Dyson, retains fine dust after emptying. And if you can smell a stale smell from your vacuum, you've got nasties flying back out in the room. For as good as Dyson cyclones are, that is a design flaw. Almost every other bagless from Miele to Shark allows you to clean the entire dust capture system. Dyson does not. Cheers!
Rubbish..of course the clutch is servicable ..I ve just done two this month out of Dc04 and Dc 14..the belts badly needed changing and on one the white cog the main belt runs from was worn out.. Available from Ebay Uk for £6 .25 from IE electronics ( Manchester Vacs ) ..with a new white cog plus two belts and a new circlip. ...belt removal tool is handy..the white cogs are only sold by this outlet . Job is straightforward .need very small circlip.pliers or grind down bigger ones to fit ..i did the job in half an hour with no vacuum servicing skills
Like I said, for all intents and purposes it is not serviceable. Why? Because the 1/2 hour you spent replacing the belts would be $50 labor for my customer. For that price, it would make far more sense to buy a new clutch. It's simple economics. It's not worth someone paying me to rebuild it.
@@HouseOfVacuums but it's certainly economical for others to do it because it is very serviceable ,just not economical for you and are happy to buy them in . I see hundreds of these old Dysons with clutches so in future I will remove the clutches and replace belts and white cog and sell them online
