Thanks for the information provided, especially for people starting from scratch like me. I have a Jetson bolt pro e-bike has been o.k. over a year until recently this motor will run on its own without touching the twist throttle, sometimes for a second, sometime over few seconds, if i left the bike standing on the ground while it is staying on, once i touch the throttle, after few seconds the motor will runs by itself, I have to run to grab the bike before it hit on something!! I have opened the cover, checking all the wiring, and while it is not acting up i perform a wiggle test all around including the throttle to see if i could make it act up, but nothing is relevant, however, there is one thing i have notice is the controller has a very strong burn and fry smelling and a bit warm to the touch which i suspicious this might be the culprit. There is one more thing i want to mention is this bike sometime is completely dead, i can't even turn the led light on (the power light is good, and the battery is showing full charge), if i wait for few hours this thing will start working, but of course with those weird issues. any thought? thanks
FFM, that was an excellent break down and run through of components and what they do.. I'm not sure how I got here, but, stayed for 3 reasons.. 1: Your voice sounds almost identical to the voice of George Knapp. [He's a living legend] 2: I attempted to compare the constrollers you mention to those I've used in the past.. [Before RC "drones" where a known/popular thing I used to design/buld them] [Flight Control Boards usually have digital Cumpasses, Gyros, and Magnetometers] [E-bike/scooter/unicycle CBs apparently only utilize the Gyro] Interesting.. 3: Your demonstrations/explanations where Awesome. [Valuable to those learning] I just have one slight issue.. As someone w/ 30ish years experience in professionally wiring, painting, photo&editing... I'm Colorblind! Talk about a pain.. Especially when they use multicolors on a single wire housing.. 😁
Whats the problem, you can't turn it on at all. Battery is new and checks out with good voltage, on, not hooked up . Hook it up to the controller, turn on the battery, The battery makes a sound like it turns the battery off, maybe?. Press the button that tells you how much battery you got left. Doesn't even lights up one bar. Like it's completely dead. Turn off the battery, unhook the battery from the bike and it works great. Voltage is good and all the battery lights light up. Is the problem in the controller? Its a e-bike kit. Says it's 3,000 to 5,000 watts hub. Says it works on 48v 60v and 72v. It's a sine wave 100a controller, Battery is 48v. What do you thinks wrong?
I have an electric bike but I'm skeptical about the battery connection because I have a 48V 13ah and a 48V 21ah extended-range battery. The standard battery will last from 4-6 hours, and the extended-range battery will last from 16 + hours based on the 50 - 90 miles of range. What battery connection would I need to reconnect to get a normal battery reading from the display?
it could depend on your controllers features, 0 power setting by default will not allow throttle input so do you have a display that allows power settings?
Good Morning. I have a problem with the display on my Hover E 1 electric scooter. I need information connecting unlabled connectors on the bottom of the scooter can I get some help
anyway to bypass DYU V8 governess of speed 28mph (limitations) that this bike has, caps out, any way to remove this restriction? if not what would be an alternative, replace the controller?
Happened to have an extra 400 amp brushless motor controller with cosine encoder or just straight drive with no hall effect or encoder pen out? Basically 90% in on a project and now I'm going through a divorce and can't afford a darn controller so if you had an extra one I would be tickled to death. You didn't mind sharing it with me
Testing the wires in each of the connectors for either battery voltage or signal voltage can tell you a lot, also helps that there are many trends among different controller manuf so most of it just becomes obvious after a while.
Since all the programmable controllers have wiring diagrams somewhere online, it’s these little generic controllers that are a headache. Lol The basic electric scooter controller are normally pretty easy because they have the bigger connectors and very few wires. Only the basics needed to run, plus brake, 3-speed, and display signal. The label on the controller will tell you some things to expect. It’s daunting at first but eventually it starts to make sense. Lol Once you get the obvious ones connected: Thick Red and Black: battery input Thick Blue Green Yellow: phase wires thin red green black in 3-pin connector (throttle) Ignition wire (if no remote start its thin, but with remote start its thicker than a signal wire because it backfeeds the accessories from the controller. With no remote it just sends a signal, no current, so its thin. With these connected the controller can run the motor if it’s paired correctly. In some of these controllers, it still leaves enough wires. Since its not designed for user programming, some features have a selection switch, but instead of a normal switch, it’s two little wires you connect together. This is where you also read the words on the label to help you know what to be looking for. If your controller says “48v/60v LVP 42v/52v”, you will have a pair of wires to select one or the other. If the bike is 48v and it looses power at 52v, these wires are in the wrong condition (connected or disconnected). These are not auto-sensing because there is a voltage overlap between 48/60/72 volt systems. A fully charged 48v is 54ish volts, and the low voltage of 60v is 52v, so if it were auto sensing and you have 53v battery voltage it has no idea if its a 48v or 60v battery. Of your controller says “self learning”, it will have a set of wires to enable/disable self learning. Sometimes this same type of selection if used to turn on speed limit. Using a multimeter, with the controller turned on, check the voltage of each remaining wire, looking for 3-4v “signal” wires. These are also switches like the sets of wires above, but they are activated while riding by pulling them to zero usually. If you have a 3-speed controller, you will have two signal wires, often with its own ground wire, and when you connect one wire to ground, it tells the controller to run low speed, when you disconnect that wire and connect the other wire it tells the controller to run high speed. When none are connected it is in default medium speed. Once you identified them connect them to your 3-speed switch or jumper it for the desired single speed. You will also have high brake, low brake or both. Normally it’s stated on the label. If you find a signal wire and you pull connect it to ground and the motor stops running when throttle is trying to run it, thats “low brake”, and is connected to both brake sensors in parallel so that either brake level connects it to ground. Of your controller is high brake, there will be a signal wire that if you connect battery voltage (12v up to battery voltage) it will activate the brake function. This may be simply motor safety cutoff, but also on some controllers turns on mild regen. High brake is normally easier to wire a brake light to because you just connect both brake lever sensors in parallel, connector battery voltage to one wire, and send the other wire to HIGH BRAKE on the controller and the brake light positive. You will also have a display wire. This signals will normally change if you speed up the motor. It’s typically a single wire with a bullet connector, but if it’s a tiny bicycle controller it may be bundled with others. If the controller says “PAS” it will have a pedal assist connector. Just slowly and methodically identify each wire. But make sure the rear wheel is off the ground and if you have a chain drive you need to disconnect it because if the motor spins backwards, the freewheel will engage, the pedals will move, potentially kicking itself off the stand, and now your bike is running around in reverse. Lol Of you do have self learning, its so easy. Just connect the wire and with the rear wheel free to spin in either direction, turn on the key, it will pair the phase and hall sensor and set the hall shift angle. If it’s running the wrong way, with the motor still running, disconnect the learning wire, the motor will stop, then reconnect and the motor will run opposite direction. Then turn off the controller and unplug the learning wire.
@@FlipFlopMechanicdear sir please could you help me find a controller and display for my bike it's 48v 250w 17.5a fat bike 20 inch wheel I'm trying to change the pedal assist percentage 0-5 ie 1=35% 2=45% 3=60 and so on if you could point me to the right controler and display.
@@FlipFlopMechanic Hey there, I'm having horrible time with ebike componant compatibility.... My 1st motor was bafang front hub and before I ever got it going, something fried when I put a universal throttle on... it set a throttle code and would only work w PA. I bough a new Bafang throttle and it fried (i fried the throttle from my Bafang mid drive too) I discovered all Kunteng componants are compatible got it running w that but the last thing you see before the display fries is the bike going 40MPH pushing it along (It's fried 3 displays) but I got it going with an LED no spedometer display, and works fine. So on the rear I put a Jauopay 1000... been sticking with Kunteng stuff having good luck(I got 2 Carbon Speed Cycle 250/500watt motors) they work Great !(all Kunteng) I just upgraded my Jauopay to the 1500watt that comes with a wider wheel that's all black and matches the front Bafang and this one came with Colourful LCD Meter (UKC1). The wheel had some bent spokes and I returned it but I tried the display/controller on the 1000watt motor and used the universal thumb throttle....... and it FRIED either the display or controller set code and quit working😡 So the next day after I got my refund, the 1500watt one went on sale 25$off and It should be here Monday. I really love the display But if a throttle or something goes bad I'm worried about getting replacements. Jauopay never gave me any product customization info on the 1000 and on this one all they say you have to use a "Rotary throttle"🙄 (not thumb) but NO INFO on replacements. Do you have any idea where to get replacement componants for this UKC1 color display (i had one kit come with a bad throttle) , or a way to figure out what's compatible with what? I'm thinking they intentionally design these things to fry out if you hook up the wrong stuff
@@FlipFlopMechanicwhat do you mean jump at so you don't need a display. I want to see you do it so I don't blow myself up after just taking your word for it
I do not have PAS after installing the 35A KT controller onto a Radrunner 2. The factory PAS wired are Red White Black. The controller wires for PAS are Black Brown Yellow. Does anyone know which goes to which? Also my bike hall sensor has 6 wires but the controller only has 5. I have a white wire left. What do I connect it to?
I'm trying to convert my whole ebike system to an electric motor from an e scooter but the motor is brushed and only a red and black wire. how or is it possible to do that?
Do you know what size the battery wires are ? Im ordering the 120p watt voilamart kit. They said its a 2.5 mm bullet but from what ive seen most are 4 mm. Arent they? I think regular mp3 headphones are 3.5 i can see my 48 v 1000watt 25ah battery going through a 2.5mm maybe im wrong
Awesome video man! Got a ? if you don't mind. I have the ienyrid es10 2000w 48v electric scooter with dual 1000w brushless motors and I'm needing to replace the controller. Do you know what type I would work? there's so many different options!😬
Please, help: I connected my hub motor to a 60A controller of voltage range 48-72v. But the motor will not spin at 48v (and the motor is rated 48v), until at around 64v then it will spin slowly. Anyone with tips on what to do?
Hi, my name is Sam. I recently purchased electric bicycle 60 volt 1500 watt motor, 26 inch fat tire. My first right didn't go so well after riding for 5 miles when I stopt the bicycle starts moving on its own Without me touching throttle. I was losing also pedal assistant when I was driving. There is no sensors for Pedal assistant it works different way. The bicycle was also increasing speed without me controlling speed I didn't touch the throttle and I wasn't pedaling. Since the owners of the company are located in Chicago, they picked the bicycle after I report the problem. But they are telling me that they cannot find any issue with the bicycle. I present them three different videos with the problem. After I did my research including watching your video I realize that controller is responsible for all the problems that I was having with the bicycle riding for the first time. Any tots, what could possibly happen or what is happening? Thank you. Sam
this helped me a lot!! thank you. my only issue is that my bike gets top speed 10mph and then shuts down. any help here? southern california, went from 36v to 48v (like originally should be)
To reverse a brush less motor, swap over any 2 of the 3 power / phase wires. This trick is used in model aircraft. My problem is connecting the display screen, the wires match the 5 signal wires from the motor but I don't have anything to connect to? This is not complicated and I'm not dumb but I'm really puzzled by not being able to see the correct wires. I have 2 controller boxes, 2 displays and one wheel. 😂
Hello, nice vid. Do you know if you can hook up a sinewave KT controller through the 3 phase-wires and the pass sensor only, no Hall? Regards
28 дней назад
are there cables adapters for this to put this on waterproof julet connectors ? and display - nc81f ? or are there adapter cables for the fardriver? to julet waterproofed cable?
So my problem is definitely the battery. Ecotric Seagull that won't power on. It has a tail light built in that works and it took a charge, just the red n black don't pop, it does when I hook my diy battery to it. I think it works but the connection is busted internally. Time for disassembly I guess.
I need to replace my controller. Its Output power 200w, rated voltage 48/60A, max current 30+(-) 1A, speed set 1-4V.. but I can’t find exactly the same. Can someone suggest me what to do. Thanks
Great video ! Very useful. What is the match setting between the controller and the hub motor! I replace the controller of my scooter. The hub motor is a QS 72v 2000w; the new controller is 36 to 84 Volts, 45 - 50 Amp 2500w power. With the motor lifted works fine but when put on field it makes a loud electrical noice from the hub motor. Any advice is very welcome!
I added a tail/head/turn signal kit to my eBike conversion. I have everything plugged in except for power. There is a molex with a red and black coming from the controller. From the light kit there is a small molex with a yellow and black wire. I want to change the molex on the controller and the light kit to match and then plug them in. Question is, are these indeed the power wires and how would I match up the controller red/black to the light kit yellow/black? I have a voltmeter but not sure how to check voltage.
If im seeing an error 10 code and my bike won't work. And neither will my headlight but at one point the bike worked for a brief time then back to nothing. I also have jacked up breaks and a broken pedal assistant thing. What do you think is the problem.
I was hooking up a brake light to my display wires and heard a pop when I turned the key on. Now can’t figure out if I blew up the controller or the throttle because now I have no power at all. Any advice??
A have a question. I have a e bike scooter 500w motor 48v with 4 battery pack 12v 20ah. Can I add an extra battery In series? The controller can handle 60 v without burnout. Thanks
For drivers in my opinion are the best they are the best controllers and most easiest to program to get your system running together and talking him together as one no matter what you have great content.
Heya, so see that big battery with the usb diagnosed port. Are you able to put them in any scooter. Mine is a kirkin m4 and goes 48 max. Only on a nice day with no wind but gets slower much quicker than i thought it would. Is there any way i could make it faster or could you advise me on battery that would make that model faster
This is the most confusing thing ever sometimes blue sometimes white sometimes it grey sometimes it's this sometimes it's that ,,, you have to make sure your motor has the right connections to even go to this damn thing even the controller..
in my bafang the orange or red is not getting 5v ..so it's not turning on... .what can I do.. when I press power display is on n error 30 movement I release power everything is gone
Do you possibly have a wire diagram for a UD3-UL controller? I got a new throttle with led with key and trying to connect wires that aren’t the same color.
Thanks for this. I have a golf skateboard and one of the controllers is just making a beeping sound. I think it has a power related issue from the smaller throttle lines. I’ll connect it all up and try to cross the yellow to the red and see if I can get it working. Then I’ll know what to do next.
