So... the pedal assist sensor... You remove the bottom bracket, slide the sensor over the drive side, then put the bottom bracket back into the frame to clamp it in place... The magnet ring then goes behind the chainring, if there's space for it. Quite often with these types of kits they just don't work well together, it's also why I argue that mid drive kits are actually easier to install than many hub motors. A more user friendly hub motor kit uses a two-piece magnet ring with a large circlip to hold the two halves around the BB axle, and the sensor itself is cable tied to a nearby tube on the frame, with some adjustment built into it.
@@get2zero Thanks for replying. Maybe I am misunderstanding the conversion process, but other videos I have watched indicated the the torque are/bracket attachment is to keep the rear hub motor from turning the wheel in reverse direction. Any thoughts on this?
@@ronoliveira8450 Hi Ron - That's not what that bracket is for as I understand it. There's no connection with the hub motor at all, it connects to the stationary part of the axle and the frame. One benefit of torque arm would be to distribute the sudden acceleration from stopped to rolling to another part of the frame. That's the time of highest torque. You could put one on and if I were doing a front fork hub I would definitely add one but the rear axle assembly is pretty rugged on a tailwind. All that being said, they are inexpensive and can easily be added as long as you have room for one. The new wheel is a bit wider (< 1/4") but there is still enough axle sticking out you could attach one. I haven't seen the need.
@@davidbell9051 I didn't like the idea of a front hub mostly because of the distribution of weight and it took me long enough to get used to the 'tiller' effect of the tailwind steering.
