i used this initially in 2017. but then it leaked. then the supplier made a e46 purple rack. this is the best so far. significantly better feel and feedback than the e36 rack. i dont go back to e36 rack anymore. if you have not had the 46 rack, you should. the best on e30!
Thank you so much for turning me on to this kit. I got myself a z4 rack and have been putting off the install because i did not want to deal with bending those lines. worth every penny to me.
Exactly my feeling and the reason I got the CBs kit. After going through all the effort there is nothing better than finishing off the easy and fancy way with brand new AN fittings and SS lines.
I did a rack swap twice.... The used one I got leaked worse than the one I was replacing. So I bought a rebuilt one. And works great. I was much quicker the second time.
@@NoGaragE30 I ordered an original E30 rack from a local suplier here on Vancouver Island who sourced it from Edmonton Alberta, I did not have to bend the tabs but it was a tight fit. I used a dime to open the steering spline to get that loose. And now I have a clutch fluid leak somewhere to fix. ( Not due to the rack swaps.) I wish the brake and clutch reservoir were separate.
Great video but for those doing the chase bays swap, make sure you read the chase bay install guide. This video added a few extra steps as I blindly followed the placement on his rack / pump.
Parts are in the video description. Chase Bays kit is optional but highly recommended if you want to upgrade and dont want to modify your power steering hoses. Thanks!
Awesome. You cant go wrong with the swap as far as upgrades go on this car. One of those things even a purist would value. Hope the video helps out. Assuming you have airbag on your 91, you will need to modify the firewall a bit to get everything aligned without binding of the steering knuckle.
That is a cheap product found at most auto parts stores. www.autozone.com/interior-organization-and-cargo-management/cup-holder-and-mugs/proelite-auto-cup-holder/363863_0_0
The rack attaches to the steering knuckle. No mark that I could see. You just need to center the rack and steering wheel as best as you can. Any final adjustments will be taken care of during wheel alignment.
Nice video. The only comment I have is with all the trouble you went through to pull the rack and then the steering knuckle to shorten it, you failed to upgrade the rubber flex disk on the other side of the knuckle (it’s around a $30.00 part from Garagistic) while you had it right there in your hand. Maybe you didn’t know about it?
Thanks! I did know about it but didnt really care for a solid disk to be honest. In fact, I had a new OEM disk I bought for this project but found that the original was in perfect condition so ended up not replacing it. I would have had to grind off the rivets on that as well and I didnt want to spend more time on it unless necessary.
by the way bending the tabs to remove and install the rack is not wise as this can weaken the tabs. do it a few more times would destroy this. you forgot to mention you can remove the oil pan first to do the rack removal/install. this is a lot neater.
You can certainly remove the oil pan, but I dont think that makes a lot of sense as it would add significant effort to the job. As I mentioned in 3:58 , raising the engine would be a lot easier. In any case, bending these steel tabs is commonly done and doesnt cause any issues as long as you are not doing it many times.
@@NoGaragE30 you obviously do not know this. how hard is it to remove the oil pan? it is so easy with just a few bolts. it is easiest to do. and you do not need any special tools just wrench. the easiest. why do you want to do the hard way of lifting the engine? lol when you bend tabs you weaken the structure. this is the lazy way out. the rack leaks oil easily. i am on my 2nd e46 replacement.
@@selespeed3 Have you actually done this before? You would have the same problem removing the oil pan. You would need to raise the engine in order to clear the rack, and if you have to do that then... I will let you think about that one. There is a reason no e30 rack removal tutorial includes removing the oil pan as a step.
@@NoGaragE30 i have changed e30 rack to e36 rack to e46. what do you think? you dont need to raise engine. as you also said the oil pan is in the way, right? so since the car is hoisted up, removing the oil pan is a breeze, isnt it? why do you need tutorial to remove the oil pan? many use the hammer in and bending tab as a quick fix solution. because removing the oil pan many consider messy i think. well, if you want to preserve the structure of the axle subframe, then dont hammer bend the tabs.
@@selespeed3 I said you wont see any e30 rack removal or swap tutorial recommending you remove the oil pan, because it is not necessary. What I show in this video is the standard and most common way to do this job. Removing the oil pan is not as easy as you make it sound and it will require to either raise the engine, drop the oil pump, or remove the subframe. Not to mention reinstalling, dealing with the gasket, the mess you point out, etc. The subframe is made of steel and the tabs are soft enough to manipulate without braking them, within reason of course.
This was a concrete paver driveway and to be honest I didnt do anything special for cleaning. Just pressure wash and bleach sometimes. Keeping the pavers sealed helps as well. Metal trays under the cars when dealing with leaks is also a must.
Just want to make sure before I order... does the year of the tie rods matter ? I’m doing the e36 tie rods on a Z3 rack as well... can’t find any forums on this topic
My understanding is they are all the same for E36 and Z3 92-98 models. Just make sure you get one for each side, marked left and right. Contrary to the ones on the E30 that are the same for both sides.
