e425 - Tamiya FF01 Transmission Housing Replacement

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Shapeways BOM:
ff0103-01_a1 FF01 Gearbox
shpws.me/TH89
ff0103-02 Tamiya FF01 Gearbox with Fan
shpws.me/TH8a
ff0105-01 FF01 Front Tower
shpws.me/TH8c
ff0106-01 FF01 Skid Plate
shpws.me/TH8b
ff0104-01 FF01 Gearbox Cover & Plug
shpws.me/TH8f
ff0107-01 FF01 Transmission Bumper
shpws.me/TH95
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Опубликовано:

15 фев 2024

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Комментарии : 59

@rushmatic 4 месяца назад

I ended up spending $500 bucks on rebuilding my FF01 during lockdown. Not that I have buyers remorse. It’s just become a shelf queen. Thanks for this update because now I can turn my spares into a useable FF01 😁

@AMPROEngineering 4 месяца назад

I almost did too. I was so mad at how much the parts were that I said screw it, im gonna fix it.

@EmreYurdakulOfficial 3 месяца назад

As i still love driving my FF01, many thanks for your efforts!

@AMPROEngineering 3 месяца назад

same here. Mine was just falling apart so I knew I needed to solve it.

@MarcLuethi Месяц назад

2 months later and I can say: Building that thing was awesome! It feels very solid and the parts fit together very well. 😀 A few holes needed a bit of drilling to 3mm to let an M3 screw through, or to 4mm (upper wishbone mount point, to allow the stepped screw to fit in*. Very nice: quite a number of he screw holes would allow for drilling through with 3mm and using an M3 screw, shim and M3 nut to tighten things down _properly_ Still, I M3-tapped all holes and used M3 cyl head screws all over the place - we'll have to see how they hold up. Another positive: The large heat sink (53177, another part made of unobtanium) is not actually needed - the motor can be mounted with that classic isolating shim (part MC11 in Set #58183, the Volvo BTCC) on the motor and with the dogbone-shaped part (MC10) on the outside. Well, At least mechanically, this works - only a few runs will show if the plastic can take whatever heat the motor will deliver. Small issue: the (not yet cut down) horn of tamiya's HiTorque Servo Saver will bind with it's corner, against the diagonal rear section. That'll be a quick fix, but any long servo horn mightt run into a bit of an issue there. * temporarily. Will change for M3 ballheads and turnbuckles.

@AMPROEngineering Месяц назад

Glad to hear it Marc. Is this the Shapeways part or on an FDM? I have run the heck out of mine and its a happy camper. Now for the rear end....

@MarcLuethi Месяц назад

Shapeways, it was.

@MrGreyZ 3 месяца назад

This makes me miss the days of my LHS track with touring cars - my TA02 and M03s did a lot of carpet time.

@AMPROEngineering 3 месяца назад

Me too. I used to go to a place with an awesome indoor track. Sometimes they made it a banked oval and it was so cool to run them in a big pack like that.

@RCeveryday 4 месяца назад

Man the SLS prints look so good, Im always happy to help further the hobby, and vintage tamiya stuff. Anytime you need my help I am there brother. Great job designing and I hope one day soon we can bang around some FF01's in person somewhere!

@AMPROEngineering 4 месяца назад

Seriously man, you were a huge help! SLS is always just amazing.

@MusicRCBicyclesCoffee 4 месяца назад

Well done! this video made me remember my first FF01 kit. Thanks for sharing!

@AMPROEngineering 4 месяца назад

Sure thing!

@longtalltexanrc3358 4 месяца назад

That’s a fantastic upgrade for more troublesome Tamiya parts. Job well done!

@AMPROEngineering 4 месяца назад

Thanks man. I need to do the rear now.

@longtalltexanrc3358 4 месяца назад

@@AMPROEngineering yes you do

@Paul__FC 4 месяца назад

Wow, man, every time I watch your videos, I'm simply amazed . Looks incredible.

@AMPROEngineering 4 месяца назад

Well thanks so much!

@unloveableandre 4 месяца назад

Just learned about SLS printers. I always thought it was the same as SLA (resin). Man, the day those printers start to get affordable, it will be a revolution. I have a small Prusa Mini FDM 3D printer and I have a lot of fun with it. But SLS is the future.

@AMPROEngineering 4 месяца назад

I totally agree, they are amazing.

@paulmcnamara2908 4 месяца назад

Awesome never had this tamiya but as side note had a real mondeo with the 2ltr pinto engine was a very nice car especially with the heated windshield in the winter! 🙂👍

@AMPROEngineering 4 месяца назад

Yeah i have had this for 30 years lol! I love the 2.0 pinto. I have two 2.3 Lima motors.

@ronniecreason7870 4 месяца назад

Very nice work

@AMPROEngineering 4 месяца назад

Thanks!

@jakewang243 4 месяца назад

fantastic job !

@AMPROEngineering 4 месяца назад

Thanks Jake!

@RCeveryday 4 месяца назад

I judge all rc from the AMPRO sidewalk jump!

@AMPROEngineering 4 месяца назад

As you should!

@geff.ludovic 9 часов назад

Hi, I'm coming back to this post because I have just ordered the motor cell and I am going to make it brushless, up to what winding level has it been tested?

@Paul__FC 4 месяца назад

Thanks!

@AMPROEngineering 4 месяца назад

You are way too kind!

@MarcLuethi 4 месяца назад

oh... I can see this for the my Volvo 850 BTCC (58183), it's going to get some life breathed into it again! yay! Question: Is the hop up heatsink (53177) absolutely needed, or can the gearbox & motor be assembled using the original dogbone like "MC10" part, with one or two "MC11" plates to get proper pinion/spur alignment?

@AMPROEngineering 3 месяца назад

Glad to hear it! No it isnt but I would use the factory heat isolator that it came with. It will also work with the factory dog bones. I am not familiar with the mc10/11 parts and when I search them, springs come up. email me at amproengineering@gmail.com

@blue3549 4 месяца назад

Great job on a complete front end. How about the rear shock tower and brace?😊

@AMPROEngineering 4 месяца назад

That's already done. Now to test!

@blue3549 4 месяца назад

@@AMPROEngineering Nice 👍

@PankoPengwingo 4 месяца назад

Is it better to use the original self-tapping screws to mount the shocks? Or a set of ball joins like on newer Tamiyas? I figured that the ball joints would be easier on the plastic, at the expense of the shocks needing to be snapped on and off each adjustment.

@AMPROEngineering 4 месяца назад

Well on original plastic, do not self tap anything. use an M3 tap and then machine ball studs. On this, either will work fine.

@lanah5487 11 дней назад

Nice video and nice work! My beloved ff01's gearbox is also decomposing. Do you offer these parts ready to go printed and finished ? No printer and no access to one. Thx

@AMPROEngineering 11 дней назад

Yup! There is a link in the description to the parts on Shapeways. Those are the parts you see in my video.

@jakewang243 4 месяца назад

Recently Tamiya came out with new Front drive car, the BT01, are you going to give it a try?

@AMPROEngineering 4 месяца назад

Oh i had not seen that. Ill take a look! Thanks for letting me know!

@rushmatic 4 месяца назад

Hey AMP! Question on your steering/servo linkage… is that from a DF01? Also can I order tour parts in black instead of white? Thanks!!!!

@AMPROEngineering 4 месяца назад

Great questions. 1. Check episode 315. It is a TA02 part and its awesome. 2. The black parts are dyed, cost more and are unpolished so they are very rough. So you pay more for a part that looks worse. Mine was painted in a matte black and works awesome. You want to always paint nylon SLS or MJF parts as they are very porous and suck up dirt and will not come clean. Hope this helps.

@rushmatic 4 месяца назад

Thanks so much! Just watched and put in the order for all your FF01 stuff on shapeways. I really appreciate all your hardwork and quick response. You are such a huge help to the vintage RC community 👍🏽