Hi there, thanks for your very detailed tutorial. I Flocked my Skywatcher quattro 150p, but instead of dealing with the sticky flocking sheet, I made my one with 2 big X-ray plys joined them with masking tape, then I cut the holes for focuser and bolts using templates previously made. try on a couples of times to verify the perfect fit and once I was satisfied I applied the flocking sheets to the X-ray. Easy to work and if you need to take out just remove it. Greetings from BelloCielo-Chile Jaime
The inside of the two baffle tubes are prime candidates for flocking. In fact, on cloudynights forums, the consensus of a very lengthy thread started in 2012 is that the very most critical and efficacious use of your time improving a Mak is to flock the inside of the primary baffle. Then, the secondary, or consider removing it entirely because its flare expands outward and increases the central obstruction. Flocking the inside of the main optical tube is a distant fourth behind getting a dew cap that is at least as long as the aperture of the corrector.
Thanks for your video on flocking a small telescope. I just finished half and taking a break before I finish. I'm doing my C6N Newtonian telescope. So far so good. Like how you explain things and what you find works. Keep up the good work Micheal Preston
Wow, yet another awesome, practical and useful upgrade video for just $20 worth of stuff and some labor that’s worth anything else more expensive you possibly could. This should improve the contrast so much.
Since you are using wood for your dovetail rails you could tape a piece of sandpaper to the tube and sand the dovetail rails to match the tube diameter. Would make for a tighter more supported mounting.
Have seen videos of people struggle to coat (paint) even small objects with that stuff, let alone to try and paint the inside of a tricky telescope tube.
Thanks for the video. Just about to flock the top of my 8" dob. ScopeStuff flocking is highly recommended by many. Much easier than flat paint & sawdust used by some.
Agreed. The ScopeStuff flocking is the best. I recently used it on an 8" Newtonian and had the chance to look a Saturn under transparent skies. A rarity in western South Dakota. At 186x, Saturn was rock solid! The image contrast was through the roof, like a refactor, despite the larger secondary of the f4 imaging Newt.
@@Sharpless2 Thanks for the suggestion, but my ScopeStuff flocking order arrived 3 hours before your comment! I chose ScopeStuff flocking because it is a known quantity for telescopes with numerous positive reviews and my good experience with other ScopeStuff products. Yes, there may be "blacker" flocking options but ScopeStuff's flocking absorbs enough light for remarkably improved observing and astrophotography. Let's say the OEM's flat black paint absorbs 50% of the incident light and ScopeStuff's stuff absorbs 90% of that light. Then a scope flocked with ScopeStuff flocking has 80% less stray light than the out-of-the-box scope. Another flocking that absorbs at 95% only removes 90% of out-of-the-box stray light. Yet another flocking that absorbs at 98% only removes 96% of out-of-the-box stray light. Will I see a dramatic improvement by going from 80% to 90% or 96% better than out-of-the-box? Maybe, but those other flockings may be less proven, more expensive or harder to come by (i.e. ProtoStar). Some concerns reported about other flocking material are: water resistance (from dew), adhesive strength (some Amazon jewelry velvet can be removed and reused several times suggesting the adhesive is not as strong as ScopeStuff's), shedding fuzz on to the primary mirror, outgassing of adhesive that condenses on optics, and tolerance to both low and high temperatures.
Perhaps...give it a try and see if you notice a 'real' difference. The discussion on cloudynights suggests that the inside of the primary baffle tube is the most important, and then either removing, shortening, or flocking the inside of, the secondary baffle.
Done this years ago with Newtonian scope, you forgot to cut longitudinal cuts every 3 to 4 inches with a razor knife, because the flocked paper will expend and contract with temperature changes more then the tube itself, without these cuts the paper will shrink in cool temperature, did scope stuff not send installation tips, Protostar flocking paper is called. try this paint Kokushoku Musou Black Water-based Acrylic Paint (25ml) Made in Japan. clear skies.
Wouldn't a T-square be better than a marble for establishing a perpendicular line inside the optical tube? And what about using flat black paint in a rattle can instead of flocking?
Hey Mike, Sure a T-square would work fine. But not everybody has one of those. For those who don't have a carpenter's square, the marble was suggested but it's a bit more touchy trying to get it right. As far as flat black paint... Most all telescopes come painted with flat black paint on the inside. The flocking absorbs reflective light due to its texture surface, unlike a painted surface.
@@DakotaStarryNights Not too hard to make a simple T-square. The black paint inside the scope you were modifying was terrible. There is better out there, but I agree that the texture of flocking is perfect. BTW, I like your presentation style. And thanks for taking the time to reply.
Probably not, Robert. Refractors typically have baffles built in and without a secondary obstruction have better contrast than mirror telescopes to start with. Look inside your scope and you should see the baffle rings. 🪐
@@DakotaStarryNights I flocked the inside focuser draw tube, because is was shiny gloss black, and aftermarket camera spacers to, i even do the inside of eyepieces, and flocked the front hood near the main mirror, cause factory black not good. clear skies
@@DakotaStarryNights Good idea to darken or flock any surfaces that are not already dulled/painted flat black. This means eyepieces, focuser tube, and some even reposition one or more of the internal donut baffles. Some paint the outside circumference of all lense, oculars and primary.
