If you've been trying to remove window glazing with various mechanical methods of scraping and grinding stop. Go buy a cheap steamer and you will be much happier.
My wife and I just bought a house from the 50s, and the inspectors told us to replace all the window putty. We were pretty nervous about it, but after watching this video we picked up a steamer on craigslist and can't wait to try!
I swear to god, this is the best youtube advice I've got. The wife and I acquired 5 windows, 6 panes each, commercial windows of steel frames with thick wired privacy glass. The wired glass was exactly what she has been looking for to do another project. I bought a used steamer on ebay and we have been steaming away. It takes some time, but then all of a sudden, the glass just falls out. Terrific! We are almost done removing all the individual lites. Well worth the $25 for a used steamer.
Well I INVENTED the method to remove a tub drain....put the grinding disc on the Dremel tool ....remove the drain screen....lower the dremel disc (At Horizontal) into the drain....and move the disc slowly around the drain tube...pressing further and further into the tube wall....then BING ! the pipe drops down and the collar lifts up....READY for Drain replacement :o)
I did this to wood frame windows made in 1956 that were part of the house when it was new. 64 year old spackle or glazing was hard as quartz rocks. I did this to 6 windows about the same size in the video and it took me 4 hours. No cracked glass!
I've watched dozens of DIY videos for re-glazing windows; this one is easily the most helpful. Thanks for saving me what would have been weeks of work re-glazing 14 wood sash windows with 56 total panes of glass. I do wish I'd known about this method when restoring the picture window in a nearly 100 year old house back in '99. It was 52 panes of glass, each about 12"H x 9"W in a 13Wx4H configuration. It was strikingly beautiful, but a real headache to re-glaze while on a step-ladder. I was heartbroken when the new owners tore it out and installed 3 vinyl sash windows in its place.
This totally worked! I took out the old cheap Wagner wallpaper stripper (that never really stripped wallpaper well once it all went to vinyl) and used it just exactly like this guy did. Just aimed the hose at the rock hard 40 year old putty, and "Voila"!!!!! I can't remember being more excited about a DIY video! Two days ago this job looked impossible! Thank you, Mr Whatever, Thank you RU-vid ........ and thank you to my wonderful sister-in-law, who lent us her wallpaper steamer about 25 years ago, and told my wife not to give it back. :) My suggestion to those of you who don't own a steamer. Buy one used. There are a whole lot of people who've had them in storage forever, and they'd be happy to sell it to you for five bucks or so. If you have lots of putty to soften, it would even be worth it to buy a cheap one new. This completely takes care of the problem!
Hey I'm glad you found this and it helped! And I agree if you don't on a steamer device it's worth it not just for this or wallpaper. I've used mine for over a decade to remove not just wallpaper but cleaning things, removing paint from odd items. It's simple but effective.
Absolutely Genius. I only have one double hung window with 102 year year old putty on my garage and I'm going to use this method. I did not want to use a heat gun and break the glass. THANKS
I wish I had seen this video BEFORE I removed glazing the hard way from 18 window frames! I'll definitely try it for the other 24! Thank you for sharing.
Great video. I used a heavy duty box cutter to cut into the meat of the window glaze first. It was just to let the steam get between the window glaze and window a bit faster.
This is a pretty good trick and was working ok but slow on my 14 pane window from 1921. After finishing one pane it gave me the idea to try a heat gun which worked even better for my window without all the drippy water mess.
This was so incredibly helpful. I just did a job for someone after watching this and it worked a charm. Three cracked panes removed from very old windows in just a few hours, unlike the many hours I've spent in the past chipping away with a chisel. Thank you.
I have a couple of antique doors that needed window panes replaced and after watching this video I ordered one of these units from Amazon for $60 and wow! Works exactly as you show here. Fast and clean removal of the old glazing with no cracking of the glass. Thanks for the tip!
I wish I would have seen this video before I removed the glazing from a window from the 1800's! I used a screwdriver and hammer to chip tiny pieces away. This looks like the perfect method!
Thank you so much.. I'm taking the putty out of a 1930's door. I've just stripped my house of chip paper with my wallpaper steamer..i''ve researched this before.. Never seen your video till now.. yep mine was about £20.00 from screwfix. Awsome peice of kit. Cheers mate. Kent.UK
I could not find my steam heater so I used my hot air soldering gun and just set it for 212 deg. Worked like a charm. Controlled heat is the key here. Thank you for the idea though!
Nice. Yes controlled heat is a very good way to put it. Those typical hot air guns can be a bit too....wild. I really want a hot air soldering gun for reflowing but I can't commit to such until I have a bit more space for more toys.
Johnp82 : I missed one little arrow shaped steel nib to hold the glass in place and when I used the quick drying (caulking gun type) it cracked right at that place where the nib was. The caulk gun glazing sucks ass.
I picked up a wallpaper steamer. Confirmed it works. Also, it appears that these wallpaper steamers are the same base unit that are used for wood steaming kits so I can easily use the same unit to wood bending!
You can use that steamer for all sorts of stuff is what I've found. The best tools are the ones you use for many different completely unrelated things.
This was gold! I didn't have a steamer, so I made do with hot water from my coffee maker. For the top edge, I folded a washcloth rag into a long strip, and laid that across a piece of wood and wet it and pushed it against the glazing. I did this twice and the putty just softened right up!
You can use a wet towel and a clothing iron if you do not have a steamer at hand. This consentrates the heat and steam to the putty area only. But as you say, this is the way to go.
Thank you for sharing this! I am glazing for the first time and without the wallpaper steamer, I would have surely broken glass by now since it was rock hard! Took much less time also! May be able to finish (starting in September in Midwest!)!
Very helpful. Red Devil and Fletcher used to make a plug in hand held device called a putty softener. The closest thing I’ve found to it is a charcoal starter for the bbq, Just hold on glazing 20 seconds and it melts putty back to a semi plastic state where it can be removed.I would never use it indoors. Brian Manne
Awesome video thanks! Someone was trying to tell me to get new windows but honestly there’s nothing wrong with my windows except the glazing. They are not letting draft in at all so I’m just gonna do it myself. Again thanks!!!
God bless you!!!! I've been having such a hard time trying to get this done. In new to this kind of work and I was literally struggling and crying because it was so difficult and long. But you just helped me out a ton. Blessings to you.
Is it the heat or the moisture or both that effect the easy removal of old glaze? What is the temperature of the water vapor at the outlet? Does the glazing have to rock hard for this method to work? I’ve always used a heat shield to keep heat from a propane torch from over heating the glass and if careful that seems to work but takes much longer on rock hard glaze than it does on glaze that is still serviceable.
I accidentally filled all the knot holes in the lumber I bought for a new bed with Glazo, a window glazing used to fill holes .I learned the hard way this stuff isn't wood filler it's putty and it DOESN'T HARDEN! Not sure what to do.
I gotta try that... I wonder if they rent those? Didn't have a steamer but I did have a tea kettle. Since the window is laying on my bench, I just poured hot water on it and let it soak, so much easier. I wish I had seen this first.
Now how long do you have to let the wood dry using this process vs mechanical removal? I have a McCulloch steamer that would be perfect for this, but now is my primer going to stick?
I mean it dries out fairly quick. A day perhaps maybe two depending on the humidity? It doesn't really soak the wood so much it just provides enough heat and steam to break the bond.
It works great. Let the steam do the work. Don't bend or pry or push on the caulk until it's nice and hot. Tackle small section at one time, run the putty knife blade from corner to corner, that way you will not apply any bending stresses to the glass and cause it to break (it is supported by the rabbet cut in the frame, supporting the glass). Hold the steam end within an inch of the caulk/glazing compound. Watch out, the steam will burn you it you have any bare skin! DO NOT GET IN A HURRY! DO NOT BECOME IMPATIENT TO SEE THE GLAZING COMPOUND/CAULK BREAK AWAY FROM THE FRAME, IT ONLY LEADS TO BROKEN GLASS! DON'T FIGHT THE GLAZER'S POINTS OR SMALL NAILS BURRIED UNDERNEATH, JUST REMOVE THE SPAKLE/GLAZING COMPOUND AROUND THEM AND REMOVE THEM LATER! WORK SAFE, WORK SMART! Update: after all the spackle is removed run the square corner of the putty knife blade down the lip, corner to corner. Where you feel a bump is where the glazier’s points are holding the glass in the window frame. Concentrate the heat/steam on that spot and dig a little with a small sharp knife or screwdriver to expose the glazier’s point. Grab the point with a needle nose pliers and pull put the point. This step is if you have to remove the glass which I did because it was broken. Be sure to put multiple layers of tape on the glass beforehand to control where the broken glass goes and not everywhere.
Super grateful for this tip & all your work posting. I clocked you @ 85 seconds (1:25-2:50) on a 23" section? Is this real time or did U edit out some footage? Our 1924 house has a lot of windows with rock hard cracked glazing, so we'll be trying your method with the warming of Wisconsin soon. Many thanks. FYI readers, Sarco window putties come very highly recommended for the replacement.
It is a good idea but I’d still do it quicker and neater with a hammer and chisel, maybe because I’ve been glazing since I was 17 now I’m 34 lol , but great vid for the beginners out there 👍🏼
Neater? Doubt that. I’ve been glazing for 32 years. The lead paint alone is reason enough to steam it! Not one person mentioned how toxic lead paint, lead dust is. And a lot of people use a torch to heat puddy. Now u have toxic fumes too inhale along with breathing lead dust. The steam is the safest, easiest way to do it. Especially when in a customers house.
$$$ & super messy, also most strippers have temperature, wind & sun exposure limitations that are quite specific. Been doing this for months, trust me.
Hey... anyone here? I'm down in New Orleans and I'm going to attempt to deglaze and reglaze windows on our 1920's Craftsman home and then prime and paint them. Any suggestions if the wood is a bit worn?
This method does not work on ancient, sun baked, glazing. The glass pane will crack before the glazing softens enough. Sheilding a heat gun with a larger size gypsum knife works better
My handyman spent 12 hours scraping glazing off metal window with 20 panes. For which he will go be paid. Will this work for metal windows? I have another window that needs doing.
It should. You're not going to melt the frames with the level of heat that is produced. Just soften the caulk or glazing so the glass can be removed or the caulk replaced.
A heat gun works a little faster in my experience. But like he says, it's more likely to break the glass. The risk of starting a fire is higher too. You want to keep a spritz bottle and an extinguisher on hand.
hmmm so ur telling me my glass installer wasted me hundreds of dollars by scraping it dry. gotta add it was on windows that could be up to 150yr old, maybe it was hardened more, idk.
What is happening is that everybody and his/her brother are now connoisseurs of window restoration. Please watch the real professionals of Historic Window preservation and restoration like John Leeke or others if you really want to know how to take care of your windows and preserve your beautiful wavy panes of antique glass and restore your windows professionally.
Nice job if you got the hot air gun to work. As I'm sure you've read in the comments a lot of people have trouble with that route. Hence why so many have seemed to like this option. If it works....do that is my thought.
A hot air gun might be faster but when it's a 110 year old window with un-replaceable textured glass, one moment of over-heating and it's ruined. When working with un-replaceable things slow and gentle wins every time.
Thanks! Good information. But I'm amazed how many people refer to the putty as "glazing." Glazing is "transparent material (such as glass) used for windows." And the putty is specifically "glazing putty."
Honestly I don't see why it wouldn't it's just steam coming out the end nothing special about it. I think perhaps having it as direct and not too spread out as possible would be ideal. Or if it is fanned out it might just take a bit longer in some places to get things hot. If the head of the unit comes off like this one does and leaves you with just single orifice I would certainly do that. Those small hand held clothes steamers may not be up for the task as they don't hold much water, might be a paint having to refill and wait to warm up so much, but I have no doubt the larger units with the tank on the ground and the longer hose running from it would work.
@@WhateverUnique I used this technique and its amazing, but I cracked a glass. This because I was silly and did not released that you need to do when outer temperature is not too low or you have to detach the window and bring inside. Then I used to heat the window homogeneously. This is why glazers uses those chamber, to avoid not homogeneous expansion. At he end was a minor crack and replacing was well within the cost of the refurbishment of 9, 150 years old, frames. So worth the experience , but I would like to share this in order to avoid the bad feeling of the terrible "crack" sound :P. Thank you for your share.
Good comment and good point thanks for sharing that about the thermal shocking of the glass. Something folks should probably consider certainly if thinking about doing this in cold months.
Well that's actually a great aspect of this method of removal unlike the others where you are grinding and scraping breaking it down and producing dust. This is basically breaking it out in chunks and it's likely all going to be wet and keep anything from becoming airborne.
I think it's a bit more iffy in potentially cracking the glass based on what I've read and my other experiences with heat and glass. This seemed almost full proof. The biggest danger in cracking the glass with the steamer I think is in the use of the metal putty knife and apply too much pressure too soon in the wrong place.
@@WhateverUnique Awesome thanks for the reply, that makes sense that the heat gun would put the glass at risk. We are slowly upgrading a house from 1870 and all the windows need attention.
A heat gun is a brilliant gadget, I've just restored an old pitch pine door and window frame set up (floor to celing glass panels set in fixed pitch pine frames with door in the centre 11ft 6ins wide, last painted badly 20 years ago). Dry scraping was taking forever, electric sanding was burying the whole district in dust, then I remembered the heat gun stored in the attic. Using the gun I did the final 3/4's of the job in less time than the first quarter took, AND it did a better job of getting back down to the actual wood, making a better job possible, AND it was less effort. BUT I did find I'd put a small crack in the outer glass of two of the eight double glazed units, both in corners, where the heat built up on the glass. Six panes did not crack, so you maybe can do it, but be VERY careful!!! I think the steamer sounds a good idea, maybe a gentler heat, with the steam protecting the glass from shock? If you have vintage/crown glass I wouldn't risk it...
I am in the middle of restoring my windows from 1900. Some of the panes have been replaced with new glass, which seems to crack easier as it's thinner, but I've learned my lesson. I'm having to strip the whole sash, inside and out, because all the layers of paint won't allow them to freely move about, and Im using the heat gun to strip the paint, but nothing close to about a half in from the glass, and that is with a heat reflector being used. If you have an old window laying around, practice on it.
Starts by saying how he doesn’t get “specialty tools”. Proceeds by using a wallpaper steamer to remove glazing. Because everyone has a wallpaper steamer lying around 🤦♂️🤦♂️😂
LoL I had it from 15 years ago when I removed some wallpaper from this same house inside the bathroom. The steam wallpaper remover is better than any other method I've ever tried. Incidentally I've used the steamer over the years for other things, cleaning for instance, paint removal on other items etc. They're actually quite handy.
