I got this installed and works nicely. Regarding the app - that was a pig to set up. I didn't see a tutorial for setting that up but in retrospect it makes sense, you have to connect to the logger to set its wifi to your wifi (using their app) then it reboots and then you end up back on your wifi and hopefully it sees it. In my case I added the dongles number before that step so after it rebooted it was just there. With regard to setting inverter options I think you said it was a bit hit and miss. It works 100% of the time, the thing that makes it look like its not working is that the module only connects every 5 min. So if you make a change its up to 5 min to take effect as it sends the command on the next connection. In my case I have a small 8x12 pent garden office with a PC and air conditioning, some network switches and a few other birts and bobs and I have 6 265W Panels flat on the roof - so nothing about that setup is optimal - and yet, it comfortably powers the office even without sun. I use about 350W all day unless the AC is on which is another 900Wm but usually the sun is whats causing the problem when I need that and I have a glut of power at that time. During the night it has to use mains but I still consider that a win.
@dr_jaymz Great to hear you got it working after the fiddly dongle setup. The whole reboot process caught me out the first time, but really handy for connecting to other inverters as it's plug 'n' play with the comm port (similar inverters), just change the name in the app when it detects a different serial number. I got round the 5 min polling by moving to solar assistant (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DHHiSgIEdJE.html) which is now my favourite monitoring method. That's a nice setup, especially with AC too! Have you considered angling the panels as this might help during the colder months when the sun is lower? All the best, Adrian
@DADvinci yes, I thought about angling, but when it's cloudy in winter, I might be just as well with straight up. I was suprised on friday when it was generating 1.3KW which is more than I'd hoped for. In fact now I'm a bit annoyed that I can't export to the rest of the house to offset car charging or the damn tumble dryer. This system is overpowered so it works in winter, the AC is inverting so does heat quite well but unlikely there will be enough to power that outside of BST. But given the panels produce so much maybe Microinverters would be better. Still, I'll stick with as is for now.
@dr_jaymz I see what you mean now. Have you considered just running an extension lead (fully unwound, if one of the wind-up ones) and then running some of your household appliances, one at a time? My current setup is essentially off-grid using extension leads around the house until I can get the 2 x15kWh 48V batteries on-grid (trying to find an installer). I run my dishwasher, washing machine, portable induction hob, pretty much anything I can unplug from the wall which has really worked well over recent years.
@DADvinci I think heating the hot water cylinder is probably the best and easiest. The specific heat capacity of water is astronomical and we heat that with gas daily at 4pm. So it will just take less gas and will use exactly the surplus. For solar assistant do you know the pin out? I have plenty of patch cables and usb serial adapters I googled it and found 6 different possibilities, but it's better to find someone who already has it working. I don't even even know if its serial ttl or proper 232, then I can give solar assistant a go. Conventionaly could use the cable supplied, and it rs232 would normally be 2,3,5. But you never know.
I have an mpp. Pip 5648mt and the fans, or at least one of them seems to go full blast 24/7.. even with nothing happening.. no per in or out. Just standby. Isn't constipation is way too high. I'm ditching it for a transformer inverter and separate victron rs charge controller
@herbertvonsauerkrautunterh2513 I know what you mean (both my MPP units have their fans on constantly). It was a pleasant surprise with these cheap EASUN units, didn't expect much from them. Transformer based inverters have their advantages (longer lasting, better surge, etc), so if weight and cost isn't an issue they are a very good choice. Do you know what manufacturer you're going to use for the inverter? All the best, Adrian
Thanks for the review - great info! I am looking for an efficient inverter with very low stand-by consumption and low-noise fan or passive cooling. The pro here seems to be the variable fan speed and in the video the sound seems not too bad. At what power (in percent of nominal power) does the fan typically kick in? And can you confirm stand-by consumption of only 2W as claimed on the easun-website? Some comments here seem to have very different experience...
@rilosvideos877 Thanks for your kind feedback, I'm glad it was useful 👍. With the inverter on and no-load the clamp meter measures around 1.3A from the battery cable. With power saving mode on it uses around 0.4A, so not 2W as claimed. I didn't get any amps registered on my plug monitor when connected to the grid (not charging the battery). It's difficult to say when the fan kicks in as it seems to be based on load and inverter temperature (heat builds slowly over time even in standby, no-load), but as shown, the fan response is much better than my MPP solar 24V equivalent. These cheaper inverters are not quiet, especially under higher load or when solar is generating a decent amount. If you are after passively cooled or inverters with extremely low standby, the cost goes up quite a bit. This was always a purchase of the cheapest I could find and I've been pleasantly surprised with how well it has performed and continues to do so. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
Hi i didn't succeed to connect the inverter with the app I connect it in hot spot mode but i didn't succeed to add it on the list of equipment. could you explain hosw you did it thanks
@arnaudmainil6414 Good day! I'm sorry to hear it didn't work for you. I added it as a new device whilst connected to my home Wi-Fi (making sure it was in good range) then scanned the datalogger QR code. From what I remember it took a couple of attempts and was slow to connect initially, but then worked. Is yours in good range of Wi-Fi via home broadband or mobile hotspot? I think it needs a 2.4Ghz channel on Wi-Fi. All the best, Adrian
@windyse860 Please can you let me know what you are referencing? I'm not sure what you mean. Fridge compressors do draw surge load when starting, but this inverter will handle it and the fans will increase for a short time until the compressor has started-up. Is that what you meant? All the best, Adrian
@@DADvinci once the compressor of the fridge has started the inverter will come off power saving for the duration of the functioning of the compressor. Fridge works fine with inverters that have power saving as long as the pulse the inverter emits has a high frequency. If the pulse is emitted not every second but every 2,3,5 seconds like I saw in several newer inverters such as Victron 12v1000w or Easun smx series or the low frequency RP series, then it might be a problem. I don't know this inverter from this RU-vid video, I never used it, but if the power saving impulse is every second it should be fine with the fridge
@user-pk5lc8rr6c I think I've answered this question on the EASUN 48V inverter for this. Please let me know if you have any other questions. All the best, Adrian
@hugobenjegard6772 Good day and thanks for your question. Yes, I've run the unit many times without the inverter being switched on, just charging the battery from solar. You can also do the same for charging from mains power. All the best, Adrian
@martinmooren9536 Good day and thanks for your question. Yes, I've run the unit many times without the inverter being switched on, just charging the battery from solar. You can also do the same for charging from mains power. All the best, Adrian
@hugobenjegard6772 Good day and thanks for your question. With the inverter on and no-load the clamp meter measures around 1.3A. With power saving mode on it uses around 0.4A. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
@andybiggs4374 Hey Andy! I've tested it for quite a while as my main system. I've since moved on to the 48V for my 30kWh system (only bought the 48V because the 24V worked well and it was also cheap) and neither of these cheap inverters have caused any problems at all, so far. I just use them as if they weren't there, regularly getting the load up high by running major appliances at the same time, while using an induction hob or microwave (48V version) to cook. The 24V is currently being used to charge batteries up when grid energy is cheap or I get paid to use it during negative pricing. I was very sceptical when I first ordered the 24V version as it seemed too good to be true, but so far so good. At the price, it's difficult to justify buying the separate components to charge batteries (via solar or grid) and an inverter to provide mains power, whereas this is in one box. Even if it lasts a few years, it's cheap enough for me to not really worry about. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
Thanks a lot for that review. I wonder vhy this is 10 times less expansive that Victron's ones. Have you any clues ? I am right if I say that you can put grid AC IN to load your batteries then display AC CURRENT if PV is not producing ?
@rebelion5051 Thank you! I'm hoping you found it useful. This is a budget model so the internal components will not be as expensive as those used on Victron (premium) inverters. When charging from the grid, you can see the number of amps that are charging the battery by selecting what gets displayed on the front panel. Does that answer your question? All the best, Adrian
Thank you for the video. What "Charger source priority" have you got on i.e, CSO, SNU or OSO. Which one is more efficient. Also for the wifi unit which model should we buy. Do you have a link for it? Cheers.
@SaurabhBohora No problem, I hope the video was useful for you. I use the default option (SNU) on charger default priority, as I'm either charging from solar (with no grid connected) or charging from the grid with no solar connected (for grid battery backup charging). Charging from solar is usually more efficient as the MPPT is already dealing with DC voltage, which is what the batteries are. Charging from mains would always be converting AC to DC voltage, so the losses would be more than direct from solar. The link is in the description for the model and the one I purchased was the ‘SMH-II-3.2K-Wifi’ version (it can be selected on the product page). I'm not sure why they have changed the image on the main description, but further down you can see the same version that I've got. Might be worth checking with the seller before purchase. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
I would like to ask you another question again after last reply. Just wondering if it works without battery in Utility setting in Program 01=UTI, just grid power and solar power (Day and night)? Thank you
Is the inverter still performing strongly? How many days have you had it on for constantly without it being switched off? Looking at my next inverter choice.
@sun-sea-solar G'Day! I had it on for months before switching over to my 48V setup and it's currently charging my 24V dump battery as I'm being paid to grid-charge today (up to 8.82p per kWh used!). Are you going for 24V or 48V? Cheers, Adrian
@adamganjaman2275 That's no typo, it's the Agile tariff from Octopus Energy. The prices are split into 30min chunks throughout the day and when there's too much energy on the grid (usually from wind during storms), the wholesale price of electricity can go negative as they want to balance the grid, so pay customers to use it. It's not all the time, but generally the prices for me have been lower on Agile (since I joined in Jan 2024) than what I used to pay on their fixed price standard tariff. As long as you limit the usage during peak time 16:00-19:00 when it usually goes in excess of 25-30p kWh (capped at £1 kWh). I'm trying to find a way to get my batteries on the grid so I can, in effect, trade energy to reduce my costs especially during the winter months when solar isn't generating enough. The standing charge as it stands today is ridiculous and in May my standing charge (£14.88) was almost double the cost of the actual electricity (£7.97) I used for the whole month! All the best, Adrian
Thank you for a great video! I am interested in the no load power consumption from the battery (clampmeter or shunt?) and also, verey important, the power consumption from the grid wiythout charging the battery from the grid (AC plug with a meter?)
@adrianr2740 Thanks for your kind feedback👍. With the inverter on and no-load the clamp meter measures around 1.3A. With power saving mode on it uses around 0.4A. I didn't get any amps registered on my plug monitor when connected to the grid (not charging the battery). I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
Hi. I have the same model. With battery full, allot of sollar, no load on inverter, it still consume 80w from the grid. This means 700kw every year jusr if you keep it connected to the grid. Very bad design. I took another invertor and I'm using this one as charger. Later edit: it looks that not all the time it is consuming 80w. I added a smart plug to monitor the standby consumtion from the grid and that 80w peak occure from time to time. So, in the end, it is not that bad.
Without load the consumption is very the voltage of battery is decreasing a lot and the economic mode is working only if the load is up tban 100 w than mean that it is not possible to run a fridge on economic mode🤬🤬
@@draghicicosmin8861 Are you sure? 80W from the grid for what? Just for heating? This would be an absolute no-go! They claim stand-by consumption is 2W on their website!
@sun-sea-solar I found it useful while out and about (+ config changes) and is reasonable in cost terms. I'm now a convert to Solar Assistant. It costs more upfront, but the refresh rate (almost instant vs 5 ish mins for dongle) and general usability is superior for me. I do use SA for battery monitoring too. Did you see the SA video? Cheers, Adrian
@LRDefender1968 Hey Tony! I usually run an all-in-one system (AC200P) attached to about 600-700 watts of 'moveable' panels in the garden. The main system, at the moment, is my 24V LiFePO4 shopping cart battery hooked up to my MPP 24V solar inverter, with the 4 x 360W panels (static) in the garden. I've got my MPP 12V solar station build as backup, which I can charge from the all-in-one or 24V shopping cart system (direct from solar if needed) when things are running low. I give priority to my fridge freezer and only hook-up to the grid for it when everything (including other portable power) is used up. I plan the usage of my washing machine, dishwasher and cooking around the weather where possible. Things are going to change though, as my 48V battery kit has turned up from China and it's a beast. Depending on tested capacity, it could be a 15kWh (expandable) system which is a game changer for winter and beyond. If I can find a way and installer to connect me up to the grid (correctly), this new battery could be the first step to grid integration, but I'm getting way ahead of the game at the moment. I hope this helps? Cheers, Adrian
I am planning to purchase 4.2 kw, would u plz confirm how much inverter support solar pv input current? Or Either it supports 550 watt pv panels ( 50 volt and 13 amps each) Looking forward for your early response plz.
@muhammadyaseen6318 Good day and thanks for your question. This 24V solar inverter (Model - iSolar-SMH-II-3.2K) has Max. Solar Voltage (Voc) 450VDC and the MPPT Voltage range is 55-450VDC. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
Hello Adrian, Posting my question under this video since the model is close to the one I'm getting. A) Can you (fairly easy) manually control on/off charging from grid? B) Can you think of any way to control the time to have the AC charger kick on? I.e. 1am to 5 am? Cheers and thanks John
@jbjensen11 Hey John! I use smart plugs for all mains charging of batteries now (exploiting cheap rates with Octopus Energy in the UK). Using the Smart Life app you can schedule switch on/off times or more recently with Solar & Home Assistant. Here's the piece where I've started smart charging automation on Home Assistant ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DHHiSgIEdJE.htmlsi=rJT9Wd-kpfaXrrG8&t=1538, set a price and then it charges once it falls below that price (30 min price changes). I hope this helps 😊👍. Cheers, Adrian
@@DADvinci Thanks a lot for your answers Adrian! Thats what I do, except I (still) have not autmated pulling the rates online somewhere, but Ill get into that and will check out what you do with home assistant, which i dont know anything about yet. -So let me now rephrase my question: using the smart plug, you can obviously time that any way you like - so you the EASUN will just start charging once the smartplug kicks on the AC input power to it? (No need to click anything extra - just supply AC power and it starts charging?)
@jbjensen11 Yes, that's correct John. Once I connect the grid it provides pass-through power to the AC output on the inverter and also charges the battery. I only use grid to charge the battery on cheap rate, otherwise it's battery with solar running the loads. I hope this answers your question?
@@DADvinci Thanks a lot. I will primarely use the unit as a charger, but need a way to program it to only charge when grid rates are cheap(like you) and the seller doesen't understand my question or answers something else... Looks like, if I just hook up AC input (through a smart plug) and connect to battery, then by programming the smart plug the unit will charge when the smart plug is powered. Correct? Any settings (besides LiFePo4 charging specs) I should beware of? Later I may utilize the inverter and passthrough options, also. For now I'm happy with my Victron Solar Controlllers and will not use the EASUNS MPPT controllers. It's actually good value, only as a charger - and I like the rest of the functions to play around with later and to have as backup in case any of my current hardware fails.
@jbjensen11 No problem at all. On this 24V inverter, other than changing the LiFePO4 settings as you’ve said, I've got the Output Source Priority (Menu 01 Option) on the default setting SUB. On the Charger Source Priority (Menu 16 Option) again on the default SNU. I don't currently have solar connected to this 24V setup, but it works fine for grid charging (same as 48V version) using the smart plug as control. Like you, I'm also looking to find and review another cheap solar inverter (48V this time) to act as a 'cheap rate' charger for another DIY (not battery box) build. They do offer good value, especially when compared to dedicated LiFePO4 chargers!
Hello, could you please advise if you know regarding charging voltage from solar? I have got easun smh-II-2.2k with lifepo4 12v battery connected and it seems that inverter cannot charge it full, only till 13.5v. Settings are user with bulk and float charge at 14.4v. I also noticed on the side of the unit there's a sticker and it says that AC Charger mode gives only 13.5v DC output. Thanks
@captainpacific6796 Good day and thanks for your question. I've not got the 12V version of this EASUN inverter range, (only 24V & 48V) but I bulk charge at double yours (for 24V) at 28.8V and I set my float to 27.2V (equivalent to 13.6V for your 12V system). Not much point going above this as only a small amount left. When I've tested using the AC charger on my 24V system, I've managed to get it into the 28V range (when setting the float higher) but it's usually the BMS on the battery that stops the charging as one cell hits 3.65V first. Is your battery balanced and it's not the BMS preventing it from going higher? In addition, you should find the solar and/or AC charging disconnects when the voltage gets to target voltage (as per setup) on the inverter or the BMS prevents charging due to high voltage disconnect. The AC charger spec appears to be a reference voltage (27V for my 24V inverter) as I can set mine higher, but don't see the need personally. All the best, Adrian.
@MYMUSICCHANNEL-db4ky Thanks for your question. The solar charger is rated at 3000W (Max charging 80A). The main point to note is not exceeding the Max Solar Voltage (VOC - Open Circuit Voltage) 450VDC. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
Hi. Could you please check if the inverter has USB (Utility first) as an available output source priority (parameter 01, in the manual only appear SUB and SBU)? Thanks!
@adb8478 Thanks for your question. The manual matches what's available on the inverter itself (no USB). The default option (as below) will offer the closest to what you are requesting, as long as solar isn't available. All the best, Adrian Default Option (SUB - Solar Utility Battery) Solar energy provides power to the loads as first priority. If solar energy is not sufficient to power all connected loads, utility will supply power to the loads at the same time. Battery provides power to the loads only when any one condition happens: - Solar energy and utility is not available. - Solar energy is not sufficient and utility is not available.
@@DADvinci That's a problem, because it means that when there is solar, AC charging is not available (it shares circuitry with inverter, so both functions cannot work at the same time), so it doesn't fit my purpose, which is feeding the hybrid with the surplus production of a grid inverter (and putting just a few panels on the hybrid). Fortunately, I've found that Y&H SP-2200W-12V (24V also available), which shares design, has USB priority available. Thanks for confirming my suspicion.
@NoiseSHome I'm sorry to hear things aren't working for you. I've added the SmartESS app links to the description (I'm using the Android version). I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
hello, I also have a 3.8kw SMH II, but I have a problem, at the PV input without connected panels, I have a constant 7-8v, can you measure at your place, please tell me if you also have PV voltage with are they disconnected?
mine is input 56V with no PV connected and output 3kva with no output connected. Brand new inverter connected only on batter first time. EASUNPOWER refused to accept my return reguest 4 months pass and no suport evento fix issue at a brand new inverter. Very bad company ran away or loss you money
@@FruitHealthyReceipts I have asked electricians who have repaired something like this and they told me that the inverter is electrically non-isolated and has voltage on all the outputs and inputs when it is working, but on the PV side they told me that I must have somewhere under 20v, that's how they are everything from what I understood, now it seems to me that you have a bigger problem
@@StefanMarianmine is brand new never wired work. An inverter connected to only battery wires it must have PV 0v input and 10-20w output for self consumption. Mine have pv1 0v pv2 56v and output 3kva just batteries wired on inverter. EASUNPOWER reply to me after a video request that it is the first time they see that... but no action to solve any problem of a brand new machine instead after 4 months i still have a band new broken inverter. Very bad company do not buy.
@StefanMarian Good day! To clarify, you've got no PV wiring connected to the PV input on the inverter and you'd like me to test the voltage at the PV input without wiring connected? Are you not using PV on your inverter? Please let m know. All the best, Adrian
@@DADvinci yes, that means the inverter works on batteries or grid, but the panels are not connected, I have 7-8vdc in their port, I understood that this is normal because these inverters are not isolated, I wanted to see if this happens to you too, because there aren't many on youtube, thanks :)
@secuadrian5419 Good day! May I ask what the Voc (open-circuit voltage) is for each panel? I assume you want to connect in series and you won't have any problems with shading where they will be installed? All the best, Adrian
Hello sir , i have a question : is this inverter combines the load output if the solar is not enough ? For example if i have a 1kw solar array and i ask 1.4kw from the inverter will add the rest 400w from the grid or it will cut the panels and switch to grid all the load ?
@ghk84 Thanks for your question. You can change the 'output source priority' (main menu option 01) with the following two options. Default Option (SUB - Solar Utility Battery) Solar energy provides power to the loads as first priority. If solar energy is not sufficient to power all connected loads, utility will supply power to the loads at the same time. Battery provides power to the loads only when any one condition happens: - Solar energy and utility is not available. - Solar energy is not sufficient and utility is not available. 2nd Option (SBU - Solar Battery Utility) Solar energy provides power to the loads as first priority. If solar energy is not sufficient to power all connected loads, battery energy will supply power to the loads at the same time. Utility provides power to the loads only when battery voltage drops to either low-level warning voltage or the setting point in main menu option 12. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
@janitrajkov5280 Good day and thanks for your question. The model specification for my unit has a Max. Solar Voltage (VOC) 450VDC. If your model is exactly the same as mine and based on what you've said for your 6 panels connected in series, it would be 6 x 49V (VOC) = 294V (Total VOC) which is lower than the max of 450VDC, meaning it's within the range of the inverter specs. I hope this helps. All the best, Adrian
@mobro2030 Hey! Thanks for your question. It's the ISolar-SMH-II-3.2K (230V AC) model. Please let me know if you have any other questions. All the best, Adrian
@ferdm9646 Water (depending on the comparative volume) should take the same amount of energy to boil it. It's how efficient the process of boiling the water is where the differences in energy consumption are. The 3kW is fast boil, hence the rating. I did a video on kettles some time ago (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-m_nNhqO1Nmc.html) and the comments section covers the amount of energy (kWh) used in my test boiling 1L of water in the kettles I have. The results were surprisingly close.
@@DADvinci that's a very good and informative video indeed. However I'm wondering if it's fair enough to boil the water in a matter of second or wait 1-2 minutes to finish the task. Does this make any difference or efficiency issues with the inverter? Slow boiling and low power boilers are might be a good options cause you don't want your mighty inverter overloaded while you're working something important on your desktop pc! Let it boil slowly while I'm using powers for other important tasks. Maybe it makes sense to me but might not make sense to others. But thank you for your reply
@ferdm9646 Thanks for your kind feedback 👍. I guess it's all about options for what individuals need. I was demonstrating the inverter at close to full load to test if it really goes up to 3kW output as stated in the specs. You're correct that running additional loads while off-grid (with this fast boil kettle) could tip this inverter over the max load and result in a shutdown. I've now got the 48V version of this inverter and it can handle 6.2kW max load, so I run the kettle with other large loads at the same time.
@dominIKhs Good day! It's definitely a MPPT model (link also in the description). Please can you let me know where you think I mentioned it wasn't in the video? Many thanks, Adrian
I m not agree with you about the fan. They could be more quiet because they are not linked to the temperature of the cabinet they are working even if the cabinet is in a room at 15 degrees. Also in low charge battery condition the values of current and power are wrong. The economic mode is bad it s not possible to run a fridge in this mode .In normal mode the unit use 40 W to run with 0 load so during the night the battery is discharged.
@arnaudmainil6414 It's fine to disagree with me. I've shared my experience compared with my MPP Solar inverter and the fan control is better on the EASUN (for me) when it comes to input and output load change, I didn't mention about temperature. I agree about the power saving mode (economic mode as you reference) and I don't use it myself due to the pulse method used. I've not had a problem with any of the settings I've used and the battery will discharge while the inverter is on, most inverters have a standby load unless you buy very expensive makes like Victron that have very low consumption when left on all the time. All the best, Adrian
@triplextriplexxx8225 No problem. I’m afraid not. This inverter can be connected to the grid and used for battery charging/pass-through purposes, but not feed-in like grid-tie inverters. Please shout if you have any other questions. Cheers, Adrian
@@DADvinci thanks alot i found powmr 6.2kw for 350usd it has ability to feed back to grid . When it becomes availoble to feed back to grid i want to have it ready
I have issue with this inverter when i switch it off with the side button with only battery attached it keeps switching back on while beeping and then off again and keep repeating this cycle. It worked fine before i had system off fir few months and now it developed this odd behavior. Doeas anyone have idea what could thos be. It still works and provides ac i just cant switch it off manually
@DADvinci hi Adrian I'm using it purely as inverter and nothing else. I have victron solar controllers to handle battery charging and this inverter is only connected to my battery and no ac input. There is no fault codes as soon as I switch it off the screen dimm a bit and the buzzing sound come then it just start to turn itself on and off all the time. I know that two days ago I unplugged the battery supply but I forgot to turn victron first so my victron instead of feeding the battery start apply power to inverter. I think that could damage sorting internally in the inverter. Never had this problem before and I put thos inverter into lot of work in the past charging nissan leaf and it was spotless but now I'm experiencing this
@greg23842384 I'm sorry to hear you're having issues and thanks for the additional info. Have you been able to check the inverter settings as I'm wondering if running it with the battery temporarily disconnected managed to reset the core settings? Is the battery itself ok (running at the right voltage) and are you able to test with another battery? I'm hoping the inverter isn't damaged and it's just settings, but it doesn't sound right with the buzzing sound. It does work ok with the inverter switched on? Cheers, Adrian
@@DADvinci i check all settings and everything is same as it was before. Battery is healthy and at the right voltage i must of burn something internally in the inverter
My EASUNPOWER 8kva inverter arrived damaged 4months ago. NO PV conected but inverter output 60v and no AC output connected and inverter uses 3kva output. I have claim a return request that is never been accepted. 4 months pass EASUNPOEWR support is not here issue still here at a brand new inverter. Anybody need evidence I have video unpacking and connect to battery only. EASUN very bad company
