The first time I ever changed brake pads I was surprised how easy it was. At the same time I was annoyed at just how much shops charge for such a simple job.
1. Its not always simple 2. Theres a lot more maintance that goes into but yes easy cheap way to just get it done without taking the extra steps will get you by.
@@lobasboyfriend8073he didn't show the part where you have to pump the brakes or he would've been rolling down the street unable to stop 😂😂cant fit everything in a 30 second video 🤡
He tried his best he doesn’t seem like he knows a lot didn’t do the thing right and didn’t tighten the wheel in start pattern man needs post stuff that’s correct
Cant describe how bad it is for the caliper piston to have direct pressure on the inside of it. ALWAYS use the inner pad as a back stop to compress the piston.
Why is no one saying this? OPEN YOUR BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR! Where do you think that air is going when you compress the pistons? Into your damn brake lines, let that air escape
All done and not a torque wrench in sight... 😂 You also didn't inspect the rotors, piston, guide pins or replace the pad guides, lubricate anything or put anti-seize or thread locker on. But other than that, yeah...
No not yet. You need to pump the brakes to make the caliper piston stick out. Otherwise the brakes won't be applied. Also loosen the brake master cylinder cap to vent off the pressure when compressing the piston and make sure no brake fluid spills out
This is not the right way but I like he was showing it’s not rocket science. I would say this is for emergencies if you were steel to steel and had very little money to keep your car going so you can do the full brake job later
With all due respect, This video is all bad!! Terrible removal and installation.... especially saftey..... everything has specific torque specifications and sequence....this is why you shouldn't trust these videos.
This guy is setting you up for failure. Replace your rotors, grease your guide pins, some caliper pistons require you to turn the piston, please don’t install your lug nuts without seating the wheel especially on a Toyota
Torque specifications for lugs and bolts, when pushing piston back open bleeder valve then close with torque specifications , wire brush and clean wheel hub and caliper bracket and lubricante bolts and hardware and back of the brake pads as well. White lithium is good.
The rotor will need to be replaced or resurfaced before the pads wear out. Most manufacturers have engineered the brakes to be replace all components of worn. He didn’t grease or clean the slide pins. I can go on?
Didn't lube the slides didn't change the clips and didn't do the star pattern to put the wheel on evenly. If the tire was rough coming off it might not seat right putting em back on tightening the way he did.
grease the slides pins whenever you take the caliper off, and tighten to wheel in a star pattern, also when you change the pads you usually want to change the rotors too. the rotors surface will cause uneven pad wear.
You don’t have to change the rotors every time you swap pads, for each car it varies because you must measure rotor thickness and taper. I work at an auto shop and we usually recommend a rotor change due to if the rotor is out of round of 3 thousands, this is because it causes a big pulsation on the brake pedal, a dial gauge helps with the out of round process check, and we use micrometers to measure the rotor on 8 different areas around the rotor. If the rotor is not out of round and is in specifications it doesn’t require replacement, if it falls out of specs it does. I also did see a comment on resurfacing as well, some shops do it while others don’t. Mostly today it’s kinda rare to find a resurfacing shop out there, but they still do exist. The reason why shops don’t do it is labor costs, each rotor to resurface takes about 15 minutes to having to do a rough cut and slow cut. That’s why so many shops stopped because we lose our shop efficiency, plus resurfacing causes the rotor to be thinner (obvious) but it makes it more prone to warp if the rotor is hot and gets splashed with water causing many customers to come back. It just becomes a big hassle, but hey, if you have a perfectly thick rotor that is newer by all means get it machined!
@@mynamedoesntsayanything4318 if theres a significant lip its worth it to turn your rotors down yeah. But 99% of cases removing a used rotor and putting it back on is waste of time.
@@mynamedoesntsayanything4318 Resurfacing a rotor is not worth it anymore. better to replace it with the pads. Fresh Pads, Fresh rotors is the best way to go.
Forgot to bleed and replace the clips. Also before you put your pads on use brake grease on pads and anit seaze on caliper pins. Same with back of rotor. Just put new rotors on everytime you change the pads too.
Forgot to grease up guide pins and to resurface the rotors and measure if they are within specification. That is how you do it right. Not to mention tightening the lug nuts to the right torque spec with a torque wrench. No wonder those mechanics charge hundreds of dollars but do it right.
I mean, if you do it right it’s not complicated enough to pay these mechanics all that money for a job well done. If you care about your car (and your wallet) you’ll look into all the details of how to do it, if you’re not already aware, and do it right the first time 👍🏻
This is what landed me here. I didn't think it was this simple, of course, just wanting to get the gist of what I'm getting into. But I kind of thought some impnt steps were missing. There was good advice, but yours is the best! That's what I'll do, and Thanks! 👍
@@MattGuzman-ng2yx You and me both. Got a 2000 camry, and she's squealing like a stuck pig. She's my daily, so learning how to do this will not only teach me how to work on my car (as a man), but save me money as well. I'm an avid believer in "you get what you pay for," well, I'm not paying some schmuck all my hard earned dough (I'm a mailman) to do something I can do and should be doing myself. I love learning. So, yeah, thanks for coming to my Ted Talk.
you did not inspect the rotor nor check the rotor thickness you did not regrease the pins you did not check to see if there was even wear on the pads as that is a Sign of uneven pressure that could be related to your brake booster or abs or a couple other things ..this is why Real mechanics charge what we charge as we do the job Right and properly
Stfu. The video literally says change break pads, not any of that other shit. You don’t need to be a “real mechanic “ to do any of the shit you named either.
What if car has electric parking brakes. What tool are you going to use for those type calipers. What if the rear caliper pistons need to be turned in, what tool then?
So funny all these people seem to to be professional but they’re still watching this video if you guys know to do it right why don’t you make your own videos and show us step by step how to get it done ..
Forget to use a torque wrench on the wheels wouldn’t recommend following this guy, most people don’t know how to jack up a car ether if show them how to do that first before anything else
First, lift vehicle with correctly rated jack on proper lift points, then use floor jacks with locking pins to be extra careful and safe, then proceed with removing the wheel
Show a video of those electronic brakes and show how they're done and you'll see the difference in how hard it is to do them and why stops can charge a lot of money it's not that expensive to do but it is a little bit of everything to do and you got to have special tools.
