Basement subfloor is one of our most requested features in our basement renovations. We use the Barricade Subfloor system from Rona. Here's a little video going through what it is, why we use it and why you can use it too.
Question I can't seem to find. When laying the subflooring panels do you lay them under the bathroom floor/tub or do you leave and opening for the tub/shower?
Definitely under the tub but you want to screw it down to the slab. We install it under the walls. Check out the video I have up on my Basement Coach channel. It goes over how we lay it down in more detail. I made a separate channel just for basements.
When you put a rigid foam against your foundation wall do you put it on top of the subfloor and frame after or can you just butt it against the frame with an expansion gap?
You said leave gap between dricore and concrete wall for expansion but then you tapcon the outside wall bottom plate to concrete. How can the dricore expand?
Hi - what do you do regarding the stairs? By putting in the subfloor raises it about 1". This will change the last rise of the stairs and may not be to code. Do you remove the stairs or have new ones built?
We've never had an issue with the city when it comes to basement subfloors and the change in rise of the stairs. Where it is a concern is with height under bulkheads. You need minimum finish of 6'5" from finish floor to finish ceiling for Ontario building code. Here in Guelph they haven't always been forgiving if you put in a subfloor but don't meet height under bulkheads. I once had to raise a bulkhead 1/4" to get final inspection passed.
@@speedrivercontracting6484 The height under my bulkheads should be fine after framing not to exceed 6'5". I do have one spot near the furnace where a vent is going under the main support beam. With a subfloor, it will not meet the 6'5" requirement and this is not even framed in. What would you suggest I do in this case? Make this part of the furnace room/storage which would not be finished. Or, because there is no other way around this would it be possible the inspector would let this one section go? I wish I could send you a picture.
How about the seams?? They are not insulate , can the mold grow and spread to the top of the panel? Should I lay down a underlayment first and after the panels?
There are channels on the underside of the panel to allow for air and or water to move and circulate on both the dricor and barricade options. because of the tongue and groove assembly it does create a barrier to the concrete. But if you have excessive moisture it would be wise to consult a local professional to figure out the source. Running a dehumidifier can help.
Unfortunately, I already have walls in the basement. I am a bit anxious about the uneven walls. Any tips for planning for uneven walls or cutting the panels?
@@timprince you're going to have some wiggle room since the drywall isn't on. You need a gap for expansion between the bottom plate and the subfloor. That gap will be covered by the drywall. Then you have the thickness of your baseboard. Keep in mind, you won't be stepping on the floor at the edges. I've got another video on a channel called basement coach that goes a bit more in depth.
@@speedrivercontracting6484 Sorry, I did answer your last question badly. I do have drywall, but I did realize I can make the gap a little bigger or use the jigsaw to cut at a slight angle. Good advice, that I will not be using the space at the side of the wall for anything and the molding will cover a lot of the space. I guess I could use quarter round if the gap is too big.
@@timprince You can have your flooring overhand the subfloor by a 1\4 so it slides under your baseboard. If it's going to be carpet, the installer can get it over the tack strip a bit. If it's luxury vinyl plank or laminate it's strong enough. Then, you can drop the baseboard right onto with no need for Quarter round. Thanks for watching.
@@jc2367 It's never been an issue on any of the projects we've used it for over the years. The system does have a vapour barrier component as well as cannels to let water drain using the slope of your slab to the floor drain. If you're already seeing signs of water before putting it down I'd address that first. Does that help?
@@speedrivercontracting6484 yes. i have an old house with no drainage system or vapor barrier under the concrete slab. only an sump in the shed. I dont have the money to install a perimeter drainage system. But assuming no flooding do you think this will handle any moisture issue i get?
