This is a pretty solid little workbench. While once you figure out how it comes together, it is physically Easy to assemble ru-vid.comUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh by yourself. But the diagrams explaining the steps are really pretty bad. I could not get the handle pins in all the way despite multiple attempts, so I just used a screw I had on hand for the 2nd handle. I could not get the first pin in further or pull it back out. You are supposed to hammer it in, but I had no leverage and the handle is plastic and I did not want to risk breaking it. I will get a lot of use out of the bench because of the convenient size and height. It does fold up nicely for storage. They even explain how to fold it so you don't get pinched...that is important!
Nice, yeah I love that tite bond ultra glue. Probably going to take this on tomorrow. Will try to find the clearest 2x's to avoid knots but yours turned out good 👍
I would recommend buying a 10 inch board and ripping that your self if you have a table saw or something. You would be able to get much straighter boards that way
Thank you for your video, so helpful! I am a beginner and want to build one for my kitchen. What types of wood could I use to add some variation in color? Would cherry add some pink into it? Also what size dimensions?
Great work, This is something I think I can do. I want to make a Caft tabletop so this would be perfect. Can you please tell me what is the size wood you use? I would truly appreciate.
I have disassembled glue joints glued on only one side "with plenty of glue.". You would be surprised at the lack of coverage. High stress applications like this should have plenty of glue on BOTH surfaces.
I have a question. I have 60"inch x 30"in butcher block, I used it as a desk top. I want to remove 2 boards (ei: to reduce the width from 30"inch down to 27". is this a fairly easy process? what basic tools would i need?
@@Ben.Builds. or you can just make sure its secured to a frame beneath the counter top. dowels are unnecessary unless you don't plan on putting any support underneath
Then you didn’t watch the entire video. He not only showed himself sanding, but told us the different grits he was using as well. Sanding starts at 3:50….
Hi, thank you for the video. Excuse my inexperience and lack of knowledge. If i use pine wood and do.all this in the video how can i make the finish look gray in color instead of poly urethane? Im attempting to do diy kitchen island countertop approx 5ftx 4ft area. I dont want to paint the wood. Is there a gray stain? If there is do you have a recomendation? Is Transparent the way to go or? Thank you thank you, Aaron
Thanks for watching! If you are using pine and you want to stain it gray. I would recommend two products. 1. MINWAX PRE-STAIN WOOD CONDITIONER for oil-based stains, this helps prepare the wood to take stain evenly. You apply it to the wood and wait about 10-15 minutes before applying stain. 2. Miniwax grey oil based stain. Now there are a lot of different shades of grey stains. Since you are staining pine, check out your local home store for pine stain charts, they usually have them hanging up near the stain sections.
Of course you can and should. I do a lot of wood refinishing and know my stains. Grey is tricky color. Be sure you know which grey you like and test out on a piece of wood first. If you want an aged wood look, don't only use grey. Buy your stains in very small quantity jars. They are concentrated and large cans last too long. I prefer Varathane Oil based. Do not buy Gel stains that are 'quick 1 hr drying' type. Utter rubbish!!! Always use oil stains. Yes, there is odor, and yes it takes longer to dry. So what? You want it looking good, right? My technique for aging wood. I use a crimped wire cup brush on an angle grinder. I wear an apron and eye goggles. The wires fly out and stick in clothes and DO NOT COME OFF, so wear rags and an apron. Even laundry does not take them out. Run this on your pine wood surface. It scrapes out the soft wood and leaves the harder grain to stand out, lovely. Especially around the edges and corners, they look authentically aged. Check for splinters and glue them or sand off. Do a very light sanding with 220 grit to ensure there are no rough spots. You want the wood to be grooved not flat, so super light sanding. Next, toast it with a propane torch to burn off any burrs from the gouging, and add a warm color tone. The tiny burrs from the wire brush will be burned off this way, as you cannot sand inside the grooves. Also adds warmth. Next, I use Boiled Linseed oil to condition the wood. Lather this on heavily and let wood soak it up. After 10 mins or so, wipe off excess with paper towels, all of it. Wood surface should be dry. Allow wood to dry 2 days. Stain with English Chestnut, and Dark Walnut or Provincial or Hickory for darker notes. When you are happy with the look, add a dark grey here and there with a brush, and rub in with a paper towel. This 'ages' the wood. Stain, wait, wipe off. Check. Repeat if necessary. Let dry for 1-2 days. Only 1 day in hot weather. If any gluing of splinters needs to be done, this is the time to do it. This way, the glue does not interfere with the staining. Use Varathane Oil based Clear Satin Interior Polyurethane. Cut 50:50 or more with Mineral Spirits separately in a jar. Do not shake!! Stir only. Apply generously to wood over the stain. Wait 10-15 mins, then smear it with paper towels, catching drips, and wiping off excess. Wood should not be wiped dry, but instead, smeared till a very light coating remains. Dry. Repeat for a total of 3 coats or more if desired. The end result is a hand rubbed finish, no thick plastic coating. Please don't use any water based Polyurethane. A table surface must be hard and resistant to everything. Use Oil based Poly only for best results. No shortcuts.
Rust-oleum. They make some good stain, can find most colors. Gray for sure. They usually sell it at Walmart or meiyer, usually anywhere with a hardware section.
4:02 - You should never sand that fast with a random orbit sander. It leaves swirl marks on the wood. Slowly sanding will eliminate the stretched out swirl marks. You are wasting your Poly by smearing it with a cloth. Wipe on Poly is simply regular poly mixed with Mineral Spirits in a 50:50 mix or even thinner. You can apply it thickly in diluted form, wait for the wood to soak it up, then smear /wipe it to a thin layer with a paper towel. Dry, and repeat 3 times. If you start out by smearing it, you are not letting it soak into the dry wood. You want that waterproofing from the soak. It also hardens the wood. You waste a lot if the cloth is soaking it up instead of the wood. Use a brush first. Wipe On Poly costs a lot more and you get a lot less. Make your own.
I'm not 100% sure but I think he has the speed turned up a bit so we can see the whole process. I'm not 100% but his legs looks unearthly moving that fast.
This is not true butcher block. It is a collection of boards glued together to form a panel. A butcher block is made with the end grain showing, not side grain.
With respect that's not entirely accurate. Butcher block is a very thick cutting board that butcher's used because they cleaved their meats. Hence the term "Butcher Block" but an end grain butcher block is more commonly popular amongst chefs because the fibers in wood long ways dull knives much quicker, making you have to work more. But the end grain isn't nearly as sturdy and the fibers separate much easier while also keeping its rigidity because of it's proximity to thew other boards and the glue up. Butcher block is just a very dense cutting board. But an end grain butcher block is by far the toughest to make, require the highest skill for cutting boards, better tools as you can't plane end grain but only sand it, but last the longest, hold your mineral oil the best, and IMO look fantastic.
