Man you saved me so much money. I followed your directions and fixed it and now it’s my claim to fame and my family thinks I’m a genius. This issue was so frustrating and I read all about all kinds of sensors and was sure I was in for thousands of dollars of diagnostics and troubleshooting. Thank you so much for posting this.
Thanks for posting. That was exactly what my 02 Escape was doing. Replace the part, and in less than an hour my car was running perfectly. Really, really appreciate you posting this!!
Same here, 02 Escape w same problem, question tho if u dont mind, did yours have a intermittent but consistent hissing that started and stopped seconds later coming from the "back" (Seemingly)? Idle REAL low then rev right back up to stay running(from IAC), seems a minor constant hiss is still there now, but the loud consistent/intermittent hiss is gone for me.. The hiss is **somewhere** but idk where, any of it was.. ive sealed EVERYTHING.. it is quite minor tho.-_- plastic intake maybe letting air out somewhere. -_- So far the dif IAC worked beautifully tho, I did an engine swap couple years ago bc the og blew up.. so I had a spare IAC off it, an old (less used) one that worked great.
I have a 2002 Ford Escape with 155 thousand miles on it. My car was performing the way that you described. So I went to Auto Zone and bought the part for 53 dollars. My install took about 15 to 20 minutes. The car now runs like its supposed to. Thanks for the information.
Well done.We have a Mazda Tribute ,which has the same motor as the escape.We have been having the same problems.We have spent a fortune at no avail.You have explained this in such a manner that is understandable and it is just common sense at the end of the day.The mechanics of today should be ashamed of there lack of skills set and reliance upon a diagnostic tool to tell them what is wrong.Well done again.Computers do not have the answer.
I sure hope it works out well for you, I also spent a fortune at a Buick dealer while on vacation 700 miles from home only to be told they could find nothing wrong with their "TECH 2000" computer after 2 hours. On a lark I pulled into a private repair shop and met a man with no voice box that motioned to me to start the car while he lifted the hood and pointed to the mass air sensor with his cane. 30 minutes later my vacation was saved.
Thank you for posting! We had the exact same issue with our 2002 Escape and replacing the idle control valve has worked so far. Our mechanic replaced a hose and a sensor, but the problem came back. We had been dealing with this intermittently for 6 or 7 months. It always seemed to happen after it rained or when it was humid out...
THANK YOU !!!! Unconscious Mechanic , for a year and a half I've had this same problem , have tried everything under the sun and nothing worked , it's amazing that with so many experts on RU-vid NONE and I say none had this answer , I tried Google, Dog pile , and nothing with the answer !!! But your advice did the trick , Thanks alot.
Thank you for watching! Super happy I could help. Check out my other videos. Meanwhile listen to some Beatnik Termites "Sweatin to the Termites" my son's new album here on RU-vid.
Mine did the same thing now in the summer time, but in this winter under cold weather (northeastern mexico upper 30's lower 40's) would need to step a little bit on the pedal just to open the throttle plate. Removed the IAC valce cleaned it with some carb & choke cleaner and a small brush and lubricated with some WD-40, and have it running like nothing ever happend! This video was so helpful, thanks!
Thank you for posting this video! My 2003 V6 Mazda Tribute has been having the same intermittent problem with no codes, so my mechanic couldn't fix it. It always happened when I was away from the shop, and was working before I could get it there. This has been MOST frustrating, and has made me lose some confidence in the car that we have owned since new.I am pretty sure that this is the problem, so I bought the valve tonight to install tomorrow. Thanks again for posting!
Thanks so much for your video posting... You have a great style - You should have your own show! I'm going to do this repair in the morning... I have replaced so many things on the Escape (that there are no codes for, and no tech seems to know how to fix), and I really appreciate your share of the symptoms, the process and the cost, and the fix. Nice work, Sir...!
Thanks Chris, this is the second time my 2000 Explorer has had this problem. First time was at about 70K and now today at 120K. Thanks for the video. Going to go buy one tomorrow.
thanks men my 1994 Ford E-250 Econoline Base 6 Cyl 4.9L was doing the same but my mechanic said that was the problem am happy to see these on youtube thanks again
My 02 Escape was idling all over the place. This is the 3rd IAC valve I've purchased from Advanced Auto. Some advise... get the Motorcraft part and NOT the whatever brand part. Once I went to Motorcraft, it's been running great (now at 238K miles!). I think the tolerances are different in the aftermarket ones or they just aren't made as well. This one has lasted over 50K now and still idling around 700-800.
WOW you really saved my ass with this one. I could NOT find the problem after all the gaskets, seals, hoses replaced new, and even adding Permatex in anything I thought COULD be a leak for good measure lol Though there weren't any as far as I can tell, bc the IAC Valve was the problem. Runs damn well now. I tell ya, I've torn in, out, up and down the whole upper half of the block so I could put it together as perfectly assembled and well sealed as I possibly could.. I cannot believe it was literally 2 bolts on top the intake, and a spritz of brake cleaner to clean it. BUT, it worked. Thank you good sir. I'm a beginning DIYer, with an obsessive mind for these things that detests unsolved challenges. lol ahh well, you live you learn. God Bless
thanks for the info I was able to clean mine it was stuck open sprayed with carb cleaner and used needle nose pliers to free up the shaft works great for now thanks again
Just got an estimate on my 2008 Escape limited from Mullinax Ford Lake Park. $275.00 plus tax. My car did exactly what you said and displayed yours doing. It happened about 6 months ago and went away the same day. Happened again this Saturday so I took it to Mullinax. They say they are "fixing a wire and reprogramming the computer". They did not mention this Idle control valve but I am guessing they unplugged it, sprayed some connection cleaner up in the socket and called it a day.
I have 2001 ford escape that was displaying similar problems, but finally threw code today.AUG 19/14 PCM code P1507, I didn't replace it. I just unbolted the unite like you did and flipped up side down. filled it up with Mineral Spirits and let it sit for 2-3 hours it seem to clean up fairly well. with a small brush i cleaned out residual carbon build up and sprayed WD40 let it sit for a few minuets. also checked see if the plunger moved freely it did. replaced IAC and reset Code. Car started up with AC on MAX with no issues, retested when the engine was Colder as it was removed while hot. Same result I use a USB OBD II link with my laptop to connect with Fordscan and the IAC showed normal operation...If it codes again I'll just replace the unit. I also posted this on another youtube Vid with similar issues.
Sticky air idle control valves are common all across the vehicle world. I pulled mine off my Taurus, cleaned it out, shot it full of WD-40, and it was like new again.
it helped that you mentioned that it wont throw a code was wondern why my 09 fusion check engine light wasnt on im a ford guy so subscribing to your channel
Hehe, we were down to one vehicle, unemployed, and pretty scared about our transportation options. I was so happy the repair worked I just had to cheer! I hope it helped you too!
clean with carb cleaner or co contact cleaner? cause i did both , internally... like inside the tube and not the e connections outside but the ones sticking inside.
big thanks. my 2001 Mazda tribute would not start. it would idle real low and then die. I removed the valve and sprayed some WD40 (all I had at the time) and the car started.
Doing this tomorrow morning with my '00 Mustang GT. I'm hoping cleaning it will solve it. My problem is really low idle especially when I come to a stop. With the AC running it will stall it sometimes. Also the car sat a long time, and since I started driving it again, it sounds like I have a turbocharger, from 1,500rpm to 2,000rpm it makes this loud sound, just like a big turbo, then sharply stops at around 2k. So strange, it has a hesitation to it also. WOT it runs perfect tho... I'm guessing I have a major vacuum leak, probably something dry rotted from sitting so much over the last few years. I haven't found it yet. I'm actually hoping what I'm hearing is just the IAC valve not working correctly, then correcting something at around 2k rpm, where it seems to run just fine.
Way back in the day mechanics would check for vacuum leaks with an unlit propane torch. When the fumes neared the problem the engine would run better because it was sucking the flammable gas instead of air. There are a few Ford vacuum leak videos on RU-vid also. Best of luck!
Thank you. Perfecto-munda! lol. Hoping this does it for me too. I have a Mazda Tribute and it's just starting to give me some idle issues when reaching normal operating temp.
Thanks, It turned out to be something else. Well, now it's my spring project and time to do a complete diagnostic. It was just too cold to be playing with it.
I want to let everyone know about these common problems. I have a 2002 Mustang GT and it had the same problems. Mine was sputtering and idling rough when I came to a stop. Replaced the IAC with an aftermarket from your local Oreyllis.... It worked fine for about 2 months then it came back with idling problems. I did all kinds of diagnostics and nothing worked. No check engine light or anything else. I also removed positive and negative cables and touch them to reset PCM.. NOTHING... I went back to pats store and got another new one and same problem. I did more diagnostics and nothing. Went back and got another new one at parts store and nothing. I I went to a local wrecking yard and grabbed a USED one and installed it and BAM,,,, it's back to normal. DON'T BUY AFTERMARKET on these sensors.
When the GEM Module goes bad you'll basically have the same symptoms accept your radio will go on and off and the dash indicator lights will go crazy and your AC won't work properly. It's a white box about 6 in by 4 in underneath your dash right in the middle in front of the center console
I'm going through that now. Got one coming through Amazon. Just changed an O2 sensor. And vacuum hose . But still has slow reaction time when I attempted to accelerate
Mine will run up to about 2000 and then stall out and die but if i hold my foot on the gas and hold it at 2k for about a minute itll drop down and idle below 1 thousand. Does that sound like it might be the same?
Sounds more like starving for fuel, change fuel filter and go from there. That is a cheap try. Yes it does sound like a similar problem, and it very well could be your IAC, also try unplugging it and see if it runs different. If after it warms up you can drive it at highway speeds it's not the filter.
I had the same problem it was stuck at a high idle and if I put it in drive the escape would get too much fuel and speed up so fast which would almost cause me to wreck. Couldn't slow down unless I stomped the breaks. I replaced everything and cleaned everything that I could having to do with the throttle and throttle body. Ended up being something so dumb. The throttle cable was starting to splinter on the inside of the plastic sheathing. A small splinter of wire would catch and hang on this plastic sheathing from the inside and cause the throttle to stick open. After replacing the throttle cable everything was fine. Now I have a problem of the escape wanting to stall out when first started if I give it a bit of fuel (using the pedal) it runs fine but as soon as I release it then it started to stall a bit and wants to shut off. What is very odd is that it runs fine after it warms up and it does not stall at all. Never seen this problem before and not getting any codes. Seen people say it could be the EGR valve or the IAC valve but I am not sure myself. Anyone else have any ideas?????
Wow, hard for me to remember but I Googled it! perfectamundo was from Fonzi on Happy Days. The phrase just popped out when the car worked, really don't use it that often..lol
Did the OEM idle control part last, or have you replaced the part since this video was filmed? I was wondering if I should use a Ford Motorcraft valve instead of an OEM valve?
You look like your left handed to me because you kept adjusting to your left hand to make it do things That's my favorite part because I'm a southpaw and it was like I was doing the work
Mine revs low about 400to750 ish rpm and sometimes it cut out but there's a higher chance of it cutting out with ac on. Will try this and see. Ford Explorer 05
I've changed that part on my 2001 Escape, however the idle rate still drops off to almost stalling. Replaced all the spark plugs and coils, throttle body. Any ideas?
If it runs at 60MPH that eliminates a fuel issue, most likely you have another bad Idle air control valve. They sell a lot of crap Chinese ones. Or the electric connection is corroded and not getting signals to the valve. Other issues could be the mass air sensor or air filter. The sensor can be cleaned but ONLY.... ONLY with mass air sensor cleaner! Watch Scotty Kilmer mass air sensor video.
+Dominique Williams If it is shutting off because the idle speed is too low then it can be this problem. Test it by repeating the same test I show in the video in the safety of a parking spot or lot. Shutting off can be many things, but shutting off due to low idle speed ( RPM ) is usually this. Good luck!
Happens to my 2001 Ford Escape idles fast at times? Took it to the VoTech program at my local BOE, but they replaced something and it didn't work. $250 in parts later. Basically this is what I have to do is shut the motor down. Sometimes I can feel it idling fast as I am slowing down at stop lights. Not good when my kids are in the car with me. I believe the fast idle comes on whether or not the idiot light is on. Help!
+MarylandGOP This is the unit that controls the idle, hence the name. I would plunk down the $50 or try the carb cleaner sprays others have recommended below before returning to a repair facility.
Replaced the IAC on Mazda Tribute V6, same as Escape, started the engine and the RPM was about 4000 and it wasn't dropping down. Put back the old one and everything is alright. Is that normal?
Wow thats still low mileage my mom's escape is having trouble staying running came across your video it's got 93000 miles on it it will stay running if you press on the gas and it will die when you let off the gas so I figured the fuel pump is still good went to napa and got a new idle air control valve for it it will be installed probably tomorrow.
So I have a 2001 ford escape and it pretty much starts everyday but some days it won't start at all but then u wait 30 mins and then it will start it sounds like sometimes it's not getting gas
Waiting 30 minutes will not help an electrical problem, or fuel starvation issue. I would suspect something that causes flooding when parked which likely would be dirty stuck open fuel injectors. Add a good fuel system cleaner in the tank (2 bottles at once) and fill tank. And change the fuel filter for kicks (easy & cheap)
Try disconnecting the wire while it is shut off, then start it and see if it stays high if it acts different then that would isolate it to the IAC, you might have a hung throttle pedal or cable also make sure it works freely and returns to idle position when you take your foot off.
Pittsburgh Pap started it up today same problem. took it on the highway about 5 miles got off and it stopped. maybe it was the throttle or peddle no idea? Thanks for your help sr.
In other comments below some have replaced these with aftermarket units that simply do not work. You might trying cleaning your original really well and trying it again.
You are describing signs of a restricted catalytic converter that is blocking the flow of exhaust once the load increases and the rpm increases. Remove both upstream O2 sensors and take it for a short road test to see if the power is back. If so install one and retest, then remove that one and install the other and retest. Doing this will tell you if its the rear converter or the converter on bank one or two that is restricted.