Great video. You are a born teacher! I have rooted in domes before, but had trouble with the transition out of the humidity dome. If possible, could you do a next step video from here. Thank you so much for your no nonsense, straight fact based teaching. I really appreaciate it and hope that your business flourishes!
Just found your channel after helping my grandma with clearing her back garden and discovering that 3 rose bushes my grandpa planted 35 years ago were still hanging on after not being fertilized for at least a decade, competing with weeds for sunlight, and a clear stint with some cane borers that must have wiggled in when grandma took a hedge trimmer to the whole kaboodle each fall (she was not the gardener of the two of them, and can't bend down to weed anymore). Two of them are in a pretty sorry state, only one skinny but luckily very healthy stem left. I'm hoping I can save them. They've got full sun now, I'll be stopping at the hardware store for some organic fertilizer tomorrow (I think I'll do a half-strength chemical fertilizer to give them an immediate boost and add a cup of manure or something to the base of each for the long-term). I'm a little nervous that I've found them too late to rescue them, but they've made it this long without me. And if nothing else, I think I'll be able to propagate some of them. Thank you so much for your advice; it's so hard to sort the hacks from the real help - I was so afraid I'd try something that'd kill them outright. You've got me feeling so much more confident that I can do this.
Thanks Rochelle. What a nice project to bring some of your grandpa's roses back to health! Sounds like you've done them some good already clearing away the competition to give them some light. Your feeding plan sounds cautious and reasonable. Other than that just stay consistent with watering while you see what it wants to do. Best of luck!
I made my own domes with used plastic bottles been great the past couple years. And now i am moving to a house with a yard can't wait to plant all my green babies
Impeccable timing Jason.😂 I was literally just getting ready to check my freshly flowered roses in the morning for possible cutting candidates. My current temperature at 10 pm is 16C/60F which will probably drop another 3-4 degrees by early morning. The sunny day highs are 25-28C/77-83F, about 5 degrees cooler in semi-shade. The plan is to capture as much of the warmer semi-shade temperature as possible and insulate the bottom of the dome to hold as much heat as possible until morning. The temperature is not ideal, but this is the real world at 1,400m/4,600ft elevation and fully off grid. I will wait for the afternoon clouds to provide cover at the warmer part of the day, take the cuttings, plant, and seal the dome wrapping towels around the base and top to hold the heat (careful not to cover the vents) until the sun warms the morning. I will also keep 5 gallon water jugs out in the sun and store that collected heat under the dome during the night. This method is try #1 here on the property, so it will be small and probably quite time consuming to monitor the light and temperature. As the weather and roses cooperate I will try more throughout the warmer months. Very primitive, but the anticipation is fun. I expect 20-30 percent success, maybe 50/50 at best, but only time will tell. The quick reminder was perfect.👌 Thanks🤙
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm That's my hope, just a little buffer for the colder mornings. It was 14C when the sun came up, but the cool breeze keeps the temperature down until about now which is about 9am. It's definitely close and well worth the time to clip and stick a few either way.😉
Thanks for the video. I am still struggling to propagate. I lost 100 lady banks rose cuttings because of damping off so this is a great reminder. Thanks
A different subject but just wanted to come on here and say thank you. Last year I had a climbing iceberg 1 of 3 planted at the same time that did not do well and I was about to dig it up thinking it had replant decease and you urged me to hang on and let it develop, well they were wise words ! It's throwing up lots of buds and doing really well this year so thanks again Jason - you were right :)
🌹Thank You for all your informational content 🌹I've always had a Love for Roses❤ I appreciate the knowledge you're providing, they are very helpful...I just started my beginner's rose collection. Gives me more reasons to continue to add more roses to the collect! Roses are so Classic. Thanks, Jason!!!🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹
Thank you for this very thorough explanations! I've been trying to propagate our rose bush from our garden, it smells beautifully. I've been watching so many videos and now realize that I was deceived, as you pointed out in your Expose video. Appreciate your honesty and your system looks wonderful! Wishing you much continued success!
another excellent how to video, i've propagated using similar methods, 36-50-72 deep trays with tall tray domes , heat mat, fluorescent tubes. a tip to easily get cuttings from cells, I use a 6" landscape staple as forceps to lift the cell out of the tray i've been doing larger cuttings in square gal pots with 2 wire hoops supporting a clear produce bag. i will try your clear tote method this week with some rambling roses
Another great video, headed to Office Depot to get one of those file boxes. I take it (3) 1" Holes drilled in the bottom (top of the dome) are needed, a point which you added in post production. Question: I was told by a very well studied Rosarian that if you trim some of the leaves of a leaflet for rooting, (i.e., there are five leaves on a branch and you trim three of them such as in your video), those two remaining leaves will shut down and not be of any use to the stem. He said roses are somewhat unique in this as it does no harm to other kinds of plants. He mentioned a lot of scientific Latin after this which I am afraid I did not retain. He is the only one I have heard this from. He said if you are trimming for rooting cuttings, take all five leaves, if not, leave all five. As this is only one opinion you might want to research this point further to prove or disprove. I should add this fellow looks after 3,000+ vintage roses so not just "some guy." Thanks again for all your videos, very helpful.
Thanks. I'm afraid that without some starting point on the research he referenced, I can't make any sense of the idea that trimming leaflets shuts down the rest of the leaf tissue. It doesn't at first blush seem to make any biological sense or match my experience at all. I can always reconsider if I saw some evidence, but for now I'll file it with other odd one-off things I hear in passing.
Thank you very much Jason for suggesting gruss an teplitz in 1 of your videos.. i was lucky enough to buy it either for Trevor white or Peter Beatles.. pater beales had 20% off deal so i managed to replace my dying rose de rescht & got Grus an teplitz too .. R de rescht came with giant roots so hopefully won’t die on me .. i’m quiet chuffed with both of them thanks to you..London England 🏴
Thank you for all the details - this is so helpful! I'm inspired to try this today. Can you leave the domes in the sun, or should they be somewhat sheltered? Thanks again!
Thanks Katrina. Sheltered is better in my experience - in the sun those little domes trap heat quite quickly and that can badly stress out the cuttings (which have no real way to replenish lost moisture from their tissues)
Thank you for educating us on the how to. My issue with alot of plants is that while they are pretty, and some varieties have massive blooming, they are not fragrant. I want a fragrant garden.
I’ve watched so many of your videos and I’ve tried to propagate roses from cutting at least a dozen times. What happens is they always turn black and die. What am I doing wrong? They’re rotting… so is there too much water? I’d really like to be able to do this but it never works for me. Any advice? Thank you for sharing so much knowledge with us! Love your videos!
I'll encourage you to keep going of course - there's a lot of little choices you make along the way (especially in selecting the right maturity of the stems and the right humidity to ventilation ratio) and so it's only ongoing experience that can really guide your feel for it.
Excellent video Jason, very helpful and concise. In your videos you mention using 'bark based soil' for propagation. Can you clarify what you are using? Pine bark, triple ground hardwood bark, or something along those lines? Thank you!
Thank you for the videos! Since it is summer, can I place the domes outside? If so, do they need to be in full sun, partial sun? I don’t really have a set up in my house and would like to give it a shot outside. I’m in middle Tennessee so we definitely have the necessary humidity!
I see some others have asked similarly questions. Sounds like the shade may be best? I’ve not had any luck with propagating roses so I’m keeping my fingers crossed! Thank you!😊
Hi Jason. Thanks. Great video. One question: in a video 4 years ago "Complete Rose Cuttings" you preferred misting over domes. In this video I see many successful domes. Please: Which method is more effective for roses, azaleas, rhododendrons, camelias and small shrubs?
They both work fine, but for slower rooting plants the domes are a lot more manageable, as the mist takes a bit of fine-tuning to match temperature and humidity.
Thanks for this well explained video. Can you please tell how long it takes for roots to develop after this process before it’s safe to plant them outside.
Thanks! I’ve always heard not to use flowering shoots. It’s nice to know that’s not true. I assume you do remove the flowers from the cuttings though. I should try some cuttings from my lavender. Thanks! 👍
My pleasure. I do remove the flowers when I take the cuttings - and ideally I suppose I'd take it from something like dianthus or lavender when it's in its vegetative stage, but I'd never let it hang me up from an attempt.
Hi Jason. Thanks. What about the light? The domes are inside. How much light the room needs to have? Temperature is clear, moist is clear. Thanks again. Great videos. The best I have found in the net.
I do add supplemental light to move things along a bit, but natural indirect light is usually okay too. There's a little bit of trial and error in setting it up. Too much light will see the cuttings yellowing and dropping leaves unusually quickly. Too little light may see slow progress rooting.
I check every day to see if they need more moisture, but moreso it's misting than a true watering. Once the majority of the cuttings are "pulling back" to confirm rooting, I transition pretty quickly away from the domes to open growing, but still in a somewhat shaded spot.
This is a great video! Very helpful. I have a few questions though. How many holes do you drill into the dome? What if I use a smaller dome for fewer plants, then how many holes will I need in the dome ? Do you leave the dome on the cuttings the whole time?
Hi Jason, could I put semi-hardwood cuttings in the shade outside in the summer rather than under domes? I'm guessing it wouldn't be as reliable but do you think some might root? I'm in North-West England.
It depends on your humidity. I wouldn't be surprised if you could, considering England can be pretty foggy. I live in the mountains of the eastern US, and I only use a humidity dome indoors. It's stays so humid outside here for most of the year, that some trees will sprout new branches from a cut log sitting on the ground.
I am so glad I found your channel. Saskatchewanite here retiring soon and looking forward to having the time to learn this skill. When you quote ideal temperatures, are you referring to air or soil temp?
Air temp in the area of propagation (under the domes, this is in a basement room). In the very most ideal setup there would be bottom heat to a little higher than the air temperature, but during the heat of the growing season that would be tricky to do without tipping over into too warm.
Your video is great. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Question for you is when you pot up these cuttings do you fertilize (heavily) to help them grow faster? What is that schedule like?
Yes, I start on a dilute liquid feed as soon as they've rooted. It takes me about a year and a couple of repotting steps to get the roses into saleable or planting size.
Thank you for sharing. I followed your advice and now I have retired Prospero by David Austin started on May 23, 2024. It’s August 3, 2024 and one rose has produced a rose bud. Should I cut bud OR allow to bloom? I’m I. The mild climate of the San Francisco Bay Area in Alameda County.
Great video Jason! Do you propagate chrysanthemums? I like to change out the flowerbeds in front of my house with seasonal color, but buying that many mums can get pricey. How long does it take for mum cuttings to be ready to plant out and bloom early fall? Thanks!
I've grown them from cuttings and they're quite easy. There's loads of free info on scheduling them as a crop or for the garden, and here's a good resource I found pretty quickly: www.ballseed.com/PDF/GardenMum-CultureGuide.pdf
If your region experiences a shorter growing season, would it still be possible to plant these perennial cuttings outdoors and allow them to thrive before the end of the season?
Hi Jason, is the size of the pot important for propagating cuttings? Shd the small cell type, like yours, be used or could 4 inch pots be used? I was wondering if 2 or 3 cuttings could be put in a 4 inch pot as I have quite a few of those I'd like to repurpose. Thanks for your informative and helpful videos!
That would be fine. Pot size doesn't matter. The cutting just needs the right environmental conditions, and as long as it gets that, it will usually root. I remember many years ago, before I understood much about plants, a big storm came through my area and knocked down a bunch of branches and whole trees. Somehow, a sugar maple branch about 3 feet long and slightly bigger around than a pencil, fell and stuck into the ground (skinny side down, so it was technically a cutting that got planted upside down) underneath the tree, where it had shade. By the time I got around to pulling it out of the ground, it had rooted and made some new leaves, and had me a little confused lol.
Thanks Sandy. You can choose between the pot and tray sizes and be successful either way. For a long time I was doing 9cm pots with 2 cuttings per pot and it worked fine. The cell trays are easier to fill and I fit more cells (especially the 72s) into the same space, so it's working for my scale of production but there's loads of flexibility on it.
Thanks for this video, it is super helpful. I just propagated 4 rose cuttings, my very first doing them, I am using the good old coke bottle method. I see mist on the inside so that seems like good news. My question how often should I water these cuttings. They all all under one coke bottle. Question regarding soil that I used, I have potting mix, compost, and sand mixture, is that ok? I saw that combination in some videos. The cuttings plants day 4 today, can I change out the soil or is it too late? Thanks appreciate you input.
I mist more than water - just to keep the humidity up. There are no roots to take up proper irrigation. Coke bottle or milk jug is just fine of course, just a different size of humidity dome. I usually don't add compost to the potting mix, but go with what works for you - it's just a matter of having loads of microbes in the mix can sometimes turn to rot.
Thanks Sheila. That amount of ventilation seems to be about right for the amount I want to mist the cuttings. If you found it was difficult to establish or maintain condensation on the inside of the domes you could cover for a bit, but air circulation & venting is also key to success.
Thanks for this quick and easy to follow video. Will this work for peonies as well? Do you have any propagation videos on plants that will root only in water? Also, would it be possible to take a cutting like you’re doing and just pop it in the soil outside? I ask this because, I have a random peony popping up on the opposite side of my garden and I think what I did was just stuck a stem in the soil and walked away. I betcha that last year I thought “let’s just stick it in the ground and see what happens” and it actually worked but it’s terrible that I just don’t recall. I’m still gonna try and see what happens this year. Thx from Nova Scotia
Herbaceous peonies are basal in growth, so they're more propagated by division. I've done a little with water propagation, but generally find it quicker and easier in soi. No problem trying in the garden - some people swear by it! I generally go under domes in trays because I'm doing larger batches and like the predictable results.
Hi Jason, I'm getting ready to propagate my floribunda iceberg rose . Am I supposed to use a sterilized medium .I have a pro mix from a big box store. And Coco pet, I got online. Which one should I use. I have been watching your videos and getting quite an education. Thank you, Steve
Jason what did you use to make the holes in the dome? I tried drilling into the "dome" and it and after the drill entered the plastic it just cracked away from the drill bit. Any ideas? Please help!
I live in Central Florida. Temperatures here are never 72 for 3 weeks. Can you share ideas on how I can start rose cuttings using the dome & not get excessive rot.
It's okay if you're a little above the ideal temp for prop - there are loads of rose growers and propagators in Florida. Your humidity is high enough perhaps to skip or reduce the dome requirements, but I suppose you'd have to give some attention to a shady location with as favorable a temperature as you can manage. I go indoors for best temp control, but even in a carport or on the shady side of a house may be doable.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm OK, I can work that in. I grow tomatoes all summer long in the afternoon shade of a big birch tree. Everyone say it won't work but it's been 6 years so far. Thank you. I'm going to give it a try and your tips will give me something to monitor for.
I read to do lavender cuttings before they put up flowers. Do you find this to be the case? Because if not I'm about to go lavender cutting crazy. Haha!
Hi Kenneth. I've added a couple of trays to my propagation ideas list on Amazon amzn.to/3CkHSt9 and I should also say that if it's easier for you to source, a 50-cell tray isn't all that different for spacing and might be a good compromise between small and larger rose cuttings.
Yes, I've played with the amount of foliage quite a lot. Trimming makes it a lot easier to fit more plants into a tight growing area without having the leaves overlap each other. Overlap of foliage has often led to rot, so I try to strike a balance.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I see; very interesting. Thanks! I'd always presumed that leaf trimming was to reduce water loss, or to get closer to the plant's natural foliage:root ratio.
I started doing it for the first reason you mentioned: reducing water loss (and because that's the way I was taught!) But I've experimented with leaving more on, and so long as humidity is managed, I never saw any issues with desiccation from too much foliage area. I have definitely seen issues with tight/overlapping foliage turning to mush with the high moisture under the dome though.
It's not the best idea - higher than necessary rates can actually slow down healthy roots. What I've seen is excess callus formation that just doesn't seem to want to develop further.
It's not really a gimmick, but it's not necessary either. I prefer the stability of the solid plastic, and just transplant before the plants become rootbound, like most people. Air pruning helps to prevent plants from becoming rootbound by killing off roots (by drying them out) that would run around the outside of the pot. IMO air pruning just gives you a slightly prettier rootball and a slightly more stressed plant, but people grow in air pruning pots successsfully all the time.
I think I'd agree with Christine's reply on this: I usually use standard plug trays but it wouldn't surprise me if I have some air-pruning plastic in my rotation somewhere
I have a floribunda rose in my garden I want to propagate. If it is hot out (summer time) can I propagate right in my garden bed or do I need to do a dome as you showed in this video?
Do you think you can grow roses like this from cuttings from a florist? I've taken some cuttings from my roses as well as tried to chop up cut stems from a florist to no avail. They do grow new leaves sometimes, but when I've pulled them out to check for roots (because I've been assuming new leaves mean new roots) they have never had roots and then die quickly afterwards. Thank you for your helpful video and any advice you can offer!!
Okay, thank you@@FraserValleyRoseFarm ! I took four cuttings from the florist roses and one is growing new leaves (one of the two that didn't have leaves on the cutting) and the two with leaves still have leaves, so I'm hopeful to see something happen, maybe in a couple weeks!
Hey im pretty new to prepagating cuttings inside. Im trying to prepagate some butterfly bush cuttings, but what is best with the humidity dome? Direct sunlight for a couple of hours a day or does it have to be indirect sunlight?
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm ah okay, if the butterfly bush cutting rooted can i then put in into direct sunlight? Sorry for asking many questions, but im basically new to all of this 🙂
I got the roses to root but what do I do with it over the winter? Right now they are in a little pot under a little dome outside. They only started rooting about a month ago. I do have a grow tent inside should I move them in or plant them?
That depends a lot on your climate. My area is (relatively) so I continue to grow out in the unheated greenhouses and just shelter them there. In a harsher winter climate you may have to decide whether to grow them (active) indoors with supplemental light usually, or to put them into a cooler sheltered location to hold them dormant. Planting them this small seems a little risky to me, and I'd rather grow them into a 6 or 8" pot before putting into the ground.
@FraserValleyRoseFarm I am in alberta so we get cold even I think the garage would get to cold in a pot because it's not heated. Will it do anything to them if they don't go dormant for the winter if I keep then in a tent? I am just so excited they rooted at all I just want to go around and take cuttings of every rose I see next year
I tried this with Alberta wild rose in late May, made sure the soil was not soggy (drops were not squeezing out), 72c tray, domed it, in the shade under a chair on the deck (maybe it was too dark there) and they all rotted, 100%. Not sure what I did wrong. Maybe some varieties cannot propagate by tip cuttings past a certain date? I am in Alberta and wanting to try propagating some of my Manitoba Morden roses (very few varieties can overwinter here in zone 3a) - do you think it's possible? There are no rose propagators in Alberta (that I know of), so I am thinking probably not, as this seems to be pretty much semi-desert country and we have a problem with water/rain as I have recently found out. For some odd reason most of the operations here just get their plugs in from BC, I am thinking it's the desert-like climate. Backyard propagators are few and far between here.
Thanks Maisie. Wild roses might be one of the cases when seed propagation makes a lot of sense - you can get loads of seedlings with minimal effort. Yes, the Morden series propagates relatively well from cuttings. It's true that BC supplies a lot of the horticulture industry in Alberta because we're not too far away to ship in and have a more favorable climate (here on the coast) to get a faster start on things with less heat to add.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I will try seeds, thank you. I bought a couple Morden roses, will try a couple cuttings (they are pretty small and not much material there, lol)! They cost a pretty penny in Alberta ($23 per gal pot), and can't find rose plug producer here! I used to live in Agassiz, zone 8B round 20 years ago, I could grow anything there. I sure miss BC, it is so very hard to grow anything here! Up here things like 2nd year Nanking cherry sell well rurally from backyards (people need a good reason to travel for a plant), but I would like to try some hardy unpatented roses, see if they draw the trips to my place and sell.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Partly retired here - winding down, so just want to grow the stuff that will really draw on their own, without having to have a couple thousand plants to water in this desert, lol. We haven't had a drop of water in over 2 months here since snowmelt, not sure the well could handle the water needs anyhow for a huge inventory. Sure thinking though a few hardy roses might be a great addition to Nanking and some of the nicer fruit bushes that overwinter here. I'll try some cuttings off the Mordens I got and see if they overwinter with such a short window to try to root them here. Love seeing your work - it's always good to see Canadians do well at this!
I won't say all, but many. If it has a stem (some plants are more "basal") it works easily on many annuals & perennials especially. Trees and shrubs too, but usually taking a longer rotting period and sometimes a specific timing.
@FraserValleyRoseFarm I did manage to find some at a store. Thank you so much for your reply! I followed your instructions, and hopefully, I'll have some new roses soon!
Yes. It's been my practice to use 3-4 nodes, but 2 would be fine. I've even heard from people doing single node cuttings! Come to think of it, that's make a pretty neat video...
It's situational to your climate, but yes my best results come in late spring/early summer when there's loads of fresh semi-hardwood growth and there's still time to root before winter. Longer topic about grafted roses. Here's my video on it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ztNP_52of9c.html
Thanks for the helpful video! What percent humidity are you trying to keep plants at under the domes? I'm propagating rose cuttings using the cookie jar method and I'm getting 99% humidity when I keep the tops on. When I put them on an angle for ventilation, they get down to 75%. I'm just not sure what's ideal.
In general rot is going to be because of too much moisture around the cuttings or contamination of microbes in the soil, tools or carried in on the cuttings themselves. Some people treat with a disinfectant to reduce the risk, but I find that I get a good rate of success just controlling the moisture and using clean tools and a clean potting soil.
Minimal intensity. You could even get away with using an old t5 flourescent light. A light that's too intense will kill your cutting just like direct sunlight.
Lower than seedlings in general, but not zero. You may have to play with the height and schedule to see what gives you the best results. Ours are 2-3ft above the cuttings and run 6-8 hours total (morning and evening, when there's less window light)
