After re-grooving dozens of truck tires using the same machine and having learned the hard way, a few tips from me you guys! Firstly; wash the tyre with soapy water then rinse. Secondly; remove all embedded dirt and grit and stones from the area where cutting is to be done. Thirdly; use a spray bottle with a washing up liquid mix and spray on areas about to be cut and the whole job becomes much faster and controllable and you will not damage and or wear out so many cutting bits in the process! Fourthly; be patient and enjoy your masterpieces.
Back about 30 years ago a local PD had a milsurp WWII Dodge Weapons Carrier they turned into a Brush Truck. The original military tires were horrible on the road, especially when wet. They used a 4" grinder to cut grooves in the lugs to prevent water from being trapped and causing hydroplaning. Worked great.
Yep, back in the 1960's they made sand tires exactly this way, with the grooving iron/blade. Guys would set up the tires mounted on a spindle mock up and groove across GoodYear Blue Streak slicks until they got a symmetrical pattern and then, they used a round knife (lathe) and took a lot of the bulk out of the sidewalls. Dave Beckett was one of the well known Sand Tires Unlimited in El Monte, CA places to get them. Today, it's all done by tie makers on the assembly line. This is a great method to add some life to your old mudder plus, it lightens them up and makes them more flexible. Lots of fun it is.
The VanAlstine gv1000hl with the Otr head is the best groover for this type of tire cutting, they make thicker blades that hold up better than the standard blades, I’ve taken up to 55lbs of a 44 bogger
Wood chisels work amazing for grooving boggers with a bit of heat, way faster to do whole lugs just get it slightly wider the the lug so you can watch all around and not accidently dig in.
*EDIT: @chris97ranger did you just regroove, or put fresh grooves in with this method. I'm tied between waiting to buy the cheapo version or just torch and chisel. My project is grooving fresh 3/4" rubber mats for a case. @Bleepin Rose ANY ADVICE?????* Well, the fact that I own a chisel and torch and not a tire groover decides that for me. Remember to be very very careful with the chisel afterwards, the unintentional hardening will make it brittle. Ig it will just be a rubber chisel after this (kind of a shame, Stanley, good chisel.
Try this again... i use an Ideal tire groover with the blade inverted for siping ( ice traction and packed snow). A cheaper better option with the Ideal groover (for siping) is to use a single AB blade from an Olfa knife. Cheaper, faster, no bent blades and available everywhere.
I was going to comment something about the 30inch tire bit but then I seen about 50 other people already did so now I'm writing this bs! Lol great vid!
I had to groove my rally tires before a race this year, it was 30 degrees outside and I had that expensive cutter. It was a long process, but holy cow what a difference. Took about 45 mins a tire, but it ended up saving my weekend race.
I personally use the traditional iron, it helps keep me from getting too crazy with the cutting. Absolutely agree with marking prior to cutting, nothing like getting all the way around to find that you skipped a block of rubber in the middle. I would mention that cutting some simple lines in larger blocks will help your wet road traction without interfering with your off road performance. BTW no chain saw for me either.
It’s a km2 it’s not designed for snow. Forward traction is alright but lack of control is incredible. I know I have them on my Jeep and won’t take on the road in snow. Even in 4x4 it is super dangerous cause there is no sipes for side to side control. You want snow traction get ko2
Red Rock Crawlers rocks are great for them and I’ve had pretty good luck with mudding them. Never been stuck yet. Only traction aid I have is a locker in the back. I’m runnin 35x12.5x15
Hello awesome people and thanks for making great content! Happy new year ✌🏼😊 My question is about heat cycles. It's known that even if a road tire has thread depth, they go stiff and brittle as it goes through seasons in a couple of years. Would grooving it help be more sticky? The rubber beneath the groove marks looks fresh, can we assume those heat cycles didn't corrupt deep in to the rubber?
That's a good question. I would think it would be less compromised the deeper into the rubber you go. Obviously you can only go so far but I bet what you're saying is true to a point.
I would say you're right! That would make sense but keep in mind Leverage is a lot of what makes a tire soft if you understand what I'm saying! So if the lug is 3" tall you'll be able to move it a lot easier than if it's 1 inch tall! But that is definitely a cool way of looking at a tire the way you did! Good comment
Go to my Instagram LOL they did good I was impressed I was happy with them I could definitely tell a difference on the second day of Wheeling of them we really got in some good stuff!
I do plan to resell the tires so I didn't go crazy on them because once you take the rubber off you can't put it back on and the next guy may not want that!
You guys didn't talk about carcass thickness. How do you tell how thick a tire is, and how deeply you can groove them before you get down to the belts? I can see where it would be really easy to go too deep, or not go as deep as possible and leave some performance on the shelf.
Well with these tires I didn't go any lower than the bottom of the tread if you know what I mean! So I didn't go any deeper then they were already made from Factory
Fair enough. If you make a follow up video about grooving, maybe add in some knowledge on how to find the carcass thickness of the tires, measuring tread depth, and maybe some real world performance comparisons of cut tires vs worn tires? You could go all Mythbusters-style and do some true experiments for legit results, or at least fake it and make a parody of it, which would likely be hilarious if you do it well. Or tragically cringe-worthy if you don't. Either way, Bleepin Jeep is my favorite channel. Keep up the great work!
I've used this method... It works phenomenally well... Very easily controlled... Get a good fan behind you though, it's SMOKEY & you'll need to see what you're doin'... Also leaves fine rubber shavings everywhere... If I do it again (Prb'ly will) I'll do it in the yard to avoid the clean-up later... The oscillating tool with the saw blade turned 90* to the handle makes awesome sipes (much more easily than a razor or a groover with the blade inverted)... Used this combo to groove & sipe my 38" TSL sno-shoe tires...
Jonathan I think you're talking about the little multi-tool! And they were phenomenal! I think TheKajunkat is talking about the angle grinder attachment that looks like a chainsaw!! Certain death LOL LOL LOL but I will be giving that a shot here soon wait and see!!!
@@jonaathansimons7938 Just to clarify..are you using a grinder wheel or a cut off wheel? I think the previous comment was suggesting a chainsaw like attachment on a grinder.
Used a wood carving tool on a 4" angle grinder (chainsaw chain on a disk.) Also used the oscillating tool saw blade with the teeth in tact to do siping, didn't shave it off to a knife edge. Hope this helps.
Hey guys. You keep referring to Instagram to see the tires and action. I have a feeling that, like me, we would prefer to see it on RU-vid. Maybe Choppa tire right in half to give us all perspective. Thanks
Jeremy, I just think it’s time to retire those tires. I can’t imagine those things are gonna be all that effective in the type of terrain you’re wheeling down there?
Man that's the first time I've ever grooved a tire that hard and was totally shocked on how much bite they had! Yeah sure a brand new set of tires would be better but I was actually impressed!
I would be the guinea pig for the video but if I came home with some swampers and told my girlfriend I was going to cut them up I would get kicked out of my house lol. Especially since I have a tj and zj project going on.
@@fire-mz2mb intersting cause i am a Mechanic and i say you can but shouldn't for safety. IE if it's not regroovable you just made the tire vulnerable to blowouts. Also if one causes an accident on public roads that makes it all the persons fault who had the tires regrooved when there not regrooveable. Many offroad tires are Regroovable though I'm just saying check first.
Well I'm a chainsaw guy 👷 my son-in-law was supposed to bring me some kind of a hot knife but the little shit ass never brought it over so I'm down to the wire for the best mud bog around in Moyie springs Idaho👊 mother's Day weekend
A bit late but I have used an electric chain saw to groove solid tires on our skidloader. Best advice I can give is to shave the rakers almost all the way down. It cuts awesome but there are tons of rubber shavings. Also there is no burning rubber smell.
