professional Tailor style Trouser cutting method jo bohat asani sy ap ko batai jarhi hay .
Creating a medium-size ladies' trouser pattern involves several steps, from taking accurate measurements to drafting the pattern and cutting the fabric. Here’s a step-by-step method:
Materials Needed:
Measuring tape
Pattern paper
Ruler
Tailor's chalk or marker
Scissors
Fabric
Measurements Required:
Waist circumference
Hip circumference
Waist to hip length
Crotch depth
Thigh circumference
Knee circumference
Calf circumference
Ankle circumference
Inside leg length (inseam)
Outside leg length (from waist to ankle)
Step-by-Step Cutting Method:
1. Preparing the Pattern Paper
Take a large piece of pattern paper.
Draw a vertical line (the grainline) down the center of the paper.
2. Drafting the Front Piece
Waistline: Draw a horizontal line at the top of the paper for the waistline.
Hip Line: From the waistline, measure down the waist to hip length and draw a horizontal line (hip line).
Crotch Line: Measure down from the waist to the crotch depth and draw another horizontal line (crotch line).
Inseam: From the crotch line, measure down the inside leg length and draw a horizontal line for the ankle.
Waist: On the waistline, mark 1/4th of the waist circumference plus 1-2 cm for ease. Mark the center front.
Hip: On the hip line, mark 1/4th of the hip circumference plus 1-2 cm for ease.
Crotch: On the crotch line, mark 1/4th of the hip circumference plus 2 cm for ease. Extend this mark outwards by 2.5-3 cm for the crotch curve.
Shape the Sides: Connect the waist mark to the hip mark with a slight curve. Then connect the hip mark to the crotch mark.
Crotch Curve: Draw a smooth curve from the crotch mark to the center front.
Leg Width: On the ankle line, mark 1/4th of the ankle circumference plus 1-2 cm for ease. Connect this mark to the crotch line with a straight line for the inseam and to the hip line for the outer seam.
3. Drafting the Back Piece
Use the front piece as a reference.
Waist: On the waistline, mark 1/4th of the waist circumference plus 3-4 cm for ease.
Hip: On the hip line, mark 1/4th of the hip circumference plus 3-4 cm for ease.
Crotch: On the crotch line, mark 1/4th of the hip circumference plus 4-5 cm for ease. Extend this mark outwards by 4-5 cm for the crotch curve.
Shape the Sides: Connect the waist mark to the hip mark with a slight curve. Then connect the hip mark to the crotch mark.
Crotch Curve: Draw a smooth curve from the crotch mark to the center back. The back crotch curve is deeper and longer than the front.
Leg Width: On the ankle line, mark 1/4th of the ankle circumference plus 3-4 cm for ease. Connect this mark to the crotch line with a straight line for the inseam and to the hip line for the outer seam.
4. Adding Seam Allowances
Add seam allowances of about 1-1.5 cm all around the pattern pieces, except for the waistline where you'll add a 2-3 cm allowance for a waistband or facing.
5. Cutting the Fabric
Place the fabric on a flat surface, folded in half with the right sides facing each other.
Pin the pattern pieces onto the fabric, ensuring the grainline runs parallel to the selvage.
Carefully cut around the pattern pieces.
6. Marking and Notching
Use tailor's chalk or markers to transfer pattern markings onto the fabric, including darts, notches, and other construction marks.
Notch the fabric at key points like the waist, hip, crotch, and ankle for accurate sewing alignment.
Final Tips:
Ensure to pre-wash the fabric to avoid shrinkage after cutting.
Double-check measurements and fit by creating a muslin prototype before cutting the final fabric.
Adjust the pattern if necessary based on the fit of the muslin.
Following these steps should help you create a well-fitted medium-size ladies' trouser pattern and cut your fabric accurately.
7 июн 2024
