Easy Way to Straighten Out Warped Twisted Crooked Cupped Lumber.

Подписаться 49 тыс.

Просмотров 568 тыс.

50% 1

I had some Ponderosa pine lumber that was ridiculously warped and twisted. Someone told me an easy way to straighten wood is to get it wet. Leave it out in the rain, under a sprinkler, or submerged in water. He said that would straighten it right out. A few weeks ago, I left these boards out in the rain to see what would happen. I show the surprising results in the video. These boards were cut on my Woodmizer LT15 sawmill.
I posted another video showing what happened after they dried. We continue the experiment and see if we can get them to dry straight. You can watch that here. • Easy Way to Straighten...

Опубликовано:

28 сен 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 600

@WilsonForestLands 11 месяцев назад

I posted an updated video showing what happens after they dry again. We continue the experiment to see if we can get them to dry straight. You can watch that video here. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xheZf-4VYVo.html

@thatsawesomethankyou9582 11 месяцев назад

think about making furniture that has the natural twists when its dry. people will say "how did you do that?"

@JB-fh1bb 11 месяцев назад

Have they dried since that video?

@KeithOlson 11 месяцев назад

Thank you for giving your video a straight-forward title *THAT PEOPLE CAN ACTUALLY SEARCH FOR!* I don't know how many times I've wanted to pass on a video that I remembered watching months before, but all of the titles were tricksy clickbait and so I never did find it. This is a perfect title. Bravo.

@abitoffblacksmithing9985 11 месяцев назад

Ya... don't do the dumb thumbnail bs....

@lhpl 11 месяцев назад

So you talk and talk, and then it turn out you are showing wet planks. Duh, very likely that will make them straight again. Wet wood is useless. Waste of time watching this. Gives you a down arrow.

@bradowen9418 11 месяцев назад

thank you for being classy and not doing the shock value click bait thumbnail - it is refreshing

@robertober2905 11 месяцев назад

I am 71 years old and I was shown by father in law when I was in my 20's to , what he called, strip stacking wet lumber. He would take scrap lumber and cut 1/4" thick strips about 1/2 to 1" wide and place the strips between each board as you stack it for storage. I have used boards that had been stacked this way for years and is was usually as straighy as when is was stacked. I still use this today.

@williamkreth 11 месяцев назад

Yes lumber stays straighter by using stickers between it keeps yhe boards drying evenly and prevents moisturebuild up which causes warping. I work at a saw mill all lumber we store is stored with stickers until it gets shipped out

@bobheiss 11 месяцев назад

Having worked years ago at a sawmill and planer mill, I know this method well, the lumber, once cut, is stacked with sticks between each layer then the slings are sent to the Dry Kiln. This dries the lumber quickly while the weight of the strapped slings on top of one another keep the boards from warping, cupping or bowing. Admittedly, the top boards on the very top do get partially misshapen but the straps mitigate this to some extent. I’d love to hear from anyone out there who may have found a way to scale down this method for use by hobbyists.

@michaelw7115 11 месяцев назад

I have been doing this with low and medium quality wet and semi-wet pine and oak wood and gotten pretty good results. The trick is to use adjustable straps (any cheap nylon straps for furniture transport or strapping things in car boots will do, you don’t need ratchet jobs to force anything) to retighten during “shrinkage” so there is never room for movement. Obviously this works better with a neat regular pile than with messily stacked wood that is given lateral space. Advantage - you can also loosen straps to remove some pieces for use before tightening the left overs. Boxing in the stack circumference with plank scraps screwed together is another alternative. The biggest problem with stacking is the staining of the wood where there is contact. Depending on the choice of wood for spacing (which the. Depends on the wood being dried) this can lead to terrible problems, so if in doubt try to find non-staining spacers not made of wood, like plastic or metal tubing. @@bobheiss

@ChimeraActual 10 месяцев назад

Yes, that's the traditional way, I sticker all my boards and it works well -- until you have to use it. When unsupported, most boards still have internal unbalanced forces which will warp it when its moisture content changes. The trick is keeping the shape after use.

@thomasfrench2012 11 месяцев назад

I'm not sure how interested in your channel I am going to be, but your disdain for sensationalism has won you a new subscriber. 🙂

@zinc470 10 месяцев назад

Same here

@davidasmith33 9 месяцев назад

YES

@hannahdivic28 4 месяца назад

Same

@owensomers8572 11 месяцев назад

My Austrian grandfather had a love-hate relationship with a local lumber yard. After WWII, when cash was in short supply, the lumber yard owner would barter. If you brought him two logs, he would saw both, give you the lumber from one, and keep the other lumber to sell. My grandfather insisted that the lumber yard owner would always keep the straighter lumber, because he could tell before sawing it which log's lumber would warp more, something my grandfather never figured out. 😄

@orowoodworks5413 11 месяцев назад

You can sometimes see a bit of the overall grain structure in the bark and outer layers of the wood. If the grain lines or bark twist up the trunk, you'll often get twisted boards. If there's a ton of knots, you'll get warping in various directions, especially when air drying. You can also see curl and some other figuring, if it exists, before milling if the bark is gone -- the outer layer of the sapwood will have ridges/waves all over it. If the trunk you are milling has a natural curve in it you'll also see more warping since you are milling flat boards out of a natural bow. Then there's the most basic element -- what species is it? Some stay a lot flatter than others.

@NikoMoraKamu 10 месяцев назад

well probably is bit of both of cases

@garymcmullin2292 Год назад

I chainsaw milled quite a bit and did wood work 40+ years, never found a method to stop the movement or wood. We have all seen images of wood grain orientation in a log and how the wood reacts when cut depending on where it is in the log. The wood is going to do what it does, shrinkage is going to happen and the accompanying stresses will continue to cause you problems when you cut and work it. The only thing that works for me is to saw through the stress areas, rip the boards or otherwise physically cut through the lines of stress. It is the way of wood, gotta live with it. Nice video, enjoyed it much.

@WilsonForestLands Год назад

Sounds like good information from real experience. Thanks for the comment.

@Davegbuf 11 месяцев назад

I'm sure there is a good reason, but couldn't logs be left to dry first before milling them? Maybe all the tension would be gone then and the logs can be cut into boards that will be perfectly straight and stay that way.

@Lumberbuds1 Год назад

I think it may be a species related thing because I used to work at a building supply store and I bought a lot of kull lumber that was twisted like this. We picked this out and re-banded it very tightly and over the period of about six months it would straighten out, as it was set out in the weather. I was able to purchase it at a pretty good employee discounted rate. I used this material in my home for replacing floor joists, ceiling joist, and even walls. I would say I got about an 85% recovery rate from the material. I did not notice any twisting or warping later on. This was all spruce.

@joeprimal2044 12 дней назад

Thanks.

@malcolmking7926 Месяц назад

Your delivery was very good. I have come here to learn something about wood and that's all you need to talk about. Thanks for educating us !

@charlescoates6661 2 месяца назад

I don't cut my boards thin until after they dry. I never cut 2x4s or 1bys until after the wood dries. This has always helped me keep them from warping

@michaellane1316 Месяц назад

I would seem to agree with this method. Not knowing wood characteristics very well, it would make sense to allow the wood to naturally dry in a more robust state before taking the best out of it. All of this is very interesting. I am also wondering how they dry wood in other parts of the world.

@mgm2008 11 месяцев назад

Thank for no mindless babbling! 😁 AND thanks for making this video! I will be searching for a follow-up to this experiment!!!

@jamesanderson2176 11 месяцев назад

Many years ago, in shop class, a had created a 3-foot diameter glue-up and finished the top and outer edge. We were letting it dry over a long weekend, before finishing the bottom. Unfortunately, a huge rain partially flooded the shop. While my project was out of the water, the humidity turned it into the world's largest potato chip. We clamped it to a bench and covered it in wet rags for a couple of days, then let it dry thoroughly. It came out almost perfectly flat and has remained so for about 45 years.

@doug18d50 11 месяцев назад

You might consider how traditional wood boat builders routinely and deliberately wetted or steamed planks to fit twisted and bent spaces on the hull. Where the bends and twists were most pronounced, good screws/bolts kept the planks in place, even when the boats spent a lot of time on land drying out. Always be conscious of your planks’ intended usage and it’s exposure to atmospheric moisture or bulk water. Planks bend toward the dry and away from the wet.

@barrelfish8106 Год назад

would like to see a follow up on these boards

@2centsam927 11 месяцев назад

So.....when they re-dry, will they re-warp ?

@garygolfer3243 11 месяцев назад

Same her, but everyone wood be board.

@brandonk1502 17 дней назад

@@2centsam927 Unless you use them to construct something and have fasteners holding them into place most likely and even then, they will probably try to re-warp to the way they were before. That is maybe unless you have them strapped together tightly with straps until they dry out of you have them in a flat area with a lot of weight on them.

@MartinMaat 3 месяца назад

He absolutely HUMILIATED those boards by DESTROYING all their warps!

@HansHartman Год назад

Pine will move with the humidity for years. But, pine is also easy to lock into place. If you want them to dry and be straight, you should weight them and put them in a hot house or drying shed. They will stay mostly straight until they have humidity to start the bending again. You are fortunate to have ponderosa pine where you are. It is superior to most other pine/soft wood building material.

@robertboykin1828 11 месяцев назад

din"t no that.

@rbm6184 11 месяцев назад

@HansHartman "If you want them to dry and be straight, you should weight them and put them in a hot house or drying shed. They will stay mostly straight until they have humidity to start the bending again." Archery bowmen have been doing this for ages. Using green staves and tying them down so they dry/cure straight before taking them down to cut and tiller into bows. Shaping curved bows is done by applying water, straightening, and holding over heat or a fire to dry while being or holding them straight. They will take the set and remain straight until wet again. Its the same with wood arrow shafts. The trick is to not scorch the wood with heat that will weaken it in that area. I use the term archery bowmen here so you will know what I mean but bowmen aren't always bow makers. Bow makers are known as bowyers.

@HansHartman 11 месяцев назад

@@rbm6184you saw that I said, “Weight them.”

@nyctoya 11 месяцев назад

Two things: First - I love your background. I honestly thought it was a green screen because the colors from the image looks so vivid and crisp. If I'm wrong, you have a beautiful yard. Second - This is the best video I've come across on dealing with bent/crooked lumber. I asked my boss to get me a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 plywood for a project and the Home Depot worker decided to give us a board so crooked that you could make boomerangs out of them. It's still in the shop collecting dust, 6 months later, because I hadn't figured out how to straighten it back. I'm going to try this method.

@wessfrederick5270 Год назад

It’s called clickbait. In order for content creators (RU-vidrs) to get clicks is with the thumbnails and headlines to be “Shocking”. It’s RU-vid’ s algorithm :( Thanks for being real and not misleading 😊

@WilsonForestLands Год назад

I always appreciate when other creators don’t use clickbait. The problem with not using clickbait is we just don’t get the views that those who do use it get.

@idahahs 11 месяцев назад

Your video was refreshing. No 'shocking' or 'your not gonna believe!' hype. Plainly stated the issue, what was suggested, & the result. Subscribed.

@kenwebster5053 11 месяцев назад

Well, timber shrinks most around the growth rings and least radially from the center of the log. This means that as timber dries, there is compression towards the centre and tension around the rings. This Tension is why logs split perpenducular to the growth rings. It is also the reason that logs are milled before they begin to dry out. Soaking the timber simply re-hydrates it, which is why it returns to the flat & straight condition of the fresh sawn timber. However, as it dries and seasons, it will undergo the same stresses that caused it to warp the 1st time. If you use the timber before then, or hold it very firmly, this resists & limits the warping, but it won't eliminate it, because stress will always be generated within the timber as it dries. You can however alleviate the stress with heat, because this softens the Lignans that bind the fibers together. This is why you can bend timber for applications like ship & boat building, fishing net construction, bent wood furniture etc. The Ancient Egyptians did this to make their light weight fast war chariots. Bent wood is usually done with steam, because that is an easy way to control heat without burning the timber, but it is really the heat that is important, not the steam. It should be noted that it is more important to heat the inside surface of a bend as the fibers themselves are not elastic & will not stretch on the outside of the bend but compress on the inside of the bend.

@brendanboon9062 11 месяцев назад

Thank you for this lovely explanation

@IgorFitz 11 месяцев назад

Thanks a lot!

@michaelw7115 11 месяцев назад

Logs are milled according to commercial needs which are generally contradictory to best practice. In many cases they are submerged or kept humid to avoid excessive drying. Timber contains water in two forms, intra and extracellular, removal of extracellular humidity doesn’t stess or dimensionally affect timber but once this humidity is gone, further drying will start stressing, i.e. cracking, deforming, shrinking etc. the wood. Initial sprinkling avoids the start of cracks at extremities where intracellular humidity would drop easily without humidification. Before worrying too much about humidity, deformation etc. reflect upon the end use, if it is to be outside, there is little point in seeking or paying for well dried timber except that as far as pine is concerned, sanding dried untreated timber is an extremely efficient way of suspending the growth of moulds and removing the staining that causes

@vidalott 7 месяцев назад

Hall of Fame comment. Now, record it, and post it.

@hannahdivic28 4 месяца назад

Fascinating!! Thank you so much for this beautiful explanation!

@Doubius 11 месяцев назад

I very much like the non-sensationalist style of video. Thank you for that, on top of the information. You're a credit to humanity as far as I'm concerned.

@williamdyer3999 11 месяцев назад

Thanks for sharing your experience! I lived in Oregon and never had warped boards ever but they did get moldy . Now I’m down in the desert of Arizona and no more mold . However I have such a problem with the warping . Every which way you can imagine kinda humerus if if weren’t so expensive. I found out use them right away. Better quality wood isn’t so much of a problem . An issue here is keeping them wet or damp once the warping occurs and then keeping them from drying out again. So back to my first conclusion about using them right away. Thanks again for sharing .

@MyLifecraft Год назад

Wow, if someone told me they would straighten out by wetting them, I would not have believed them! I usually use the creep deformation method which is clamping some warped and twisted pieces to something els that is straight, and eventually the stress would straighten them back out. But it can take several days or even weeks, and it doesn’t get rid of the twist 100%

@siamsasean 11 месяцев назад

That's fun. And thanks for not doing that silly click-bait stuff. You're right good as you are.

@orowoodworks5413 11 месяцев назад

Proper stickering and stacking with extra mass above helps a lot, but definitely isn't gonna stop everything. 4/4 material is always the hardest to keep flat, and knotty wood is also much more likely to warp in drying since the grain structure has so many changes. It's much easier to deal with bow than any other form of warping. Twist is nearly impossible to remove without further milling. Essentially what you have to do to "permanently" flatten the piece is bend it in the opposite direction of its natural warp while it goes through it's entire drying process -- so for a piece that's twisted, you'd have to stack it twisted in the opposite direction and then let it dry. This will cause the compression shrinkage of the fibers to reach a new equilibrium and the board should come out much flatter. But it's a lot of work for very little reward, especially in pine. You can also do this with dry wood that is bowed. Place it on a pair of sawhorses or something so that the bow faces upward. Place weight on the center until it bows in the opposite direction about half as far as the natural bow. Let it sit overnight, remove the weight and check it. This will slowly compress the fibers on the convex side and help pull it back to flat.

@MercurialTorpor 11 месяцев назад

Right now I'm working with treated pine palings. They are supplied wet and flat but they dry out in the most warped and crooked shapes imaginable. What works for me is to weight them down on a flat surface and let them dry out flat. Once dry, they stay flat for installation. However, to keep them flat over time they have to be fastened at regular intervals and they stay flat even when exposed to burning sun and 40 degree Celsius (104 degrees F). Thicker wood like decking timber, you have to throw into the swimming pool or pond for a few days to rehydrate, then dry them out constrained into a straight plank. They actually stay straight as the microfibrils and lignin are stretched and compressed to form the straightened lumber. Conversely, you can shape wood into curves etc using hot water or steam to soften it, then bend it to the desired shape.

@RawFitChris 4 месяца назад

Wow. Perfect. We should always remember that Nature always is the best helper! Thanks for the reminder. These deck boards that you used for the experiment should be used not for fine furniture (like you said) but for deck boards where they're screwed down every few feet or so.

@donaldgarmon7368 Год назад

Good Content, and Thank You for NOT buying into the RU-vid Silly-ness! Keep Up The Good Work!

@WilsonForestLands Год назад

Thank you, I appreciate your comment.

@TheOldManAndTheSaw Год назад

VERY good information. Glad you didn't need any wine this time. I'd try stickering the boards every 16"-18" and then weight them down. Guaranteed to work. Or not.

@WilsonForestLands Год назад

I like your noncommittal guarantee.

@darrellsomers5427 Год назад

That didn't work 4 me

@davidswanson5669 Год назад

@@darrellsomers5427as guaranteed.

@notbraindead7298 11 месяцев назад

Very interesting and informative video. Thank you for posting. I'll keep watch for any follow up to this video.

@waskele.wabbit717 9 месяцев назад

We always used a board stretcher to straighten them out. Also came in handy if your cut was a little short. 🤫

@robertpage2023 11 месяцев назад

Build a wood steamer and then when you can bend them, put them in a press or a multiple clamping jig. There are many YT videos on building a wood steamer and press jig. Pine steams pretty quick. Hardwoods take longer as Oak and Walnut and Maple the longest. Thickness and the wood's porosity are a factor as well. For a long time but not always, wooden ship's ribs and parts were steam bent. It's the Lignin that's made pliable from the steam. I've soaked sheet rock in a plastic sheet pool so that I could bend it in architectural curved walls before.

@sextonblake4258 11 месяцев назад

I agree with you about the way some channels use hyperbole in their titles. I block them because they seldom provide useful content. You, on the other hand are different. Subscribed

@Susan-zk7ne Год назад

Loved all the comments. Sounded just like the ladies in the quilting circle.

@WilsonForestLands Год назад

I think these comments are mostly men. Maybe we .aren’t as different as we like to think think we are. 😁

@therealdesidaru Год назад

@@WilsonForestLands Some of usemight have shown up just because "straight" and "wood" 😆

@RedPillSurvival 11 месяцев назад

Good points in the comments. Sealing the ends should help also. Anchor Seal is used by many, but I understand that house paint works too.

@markniblett4857 11 месяцев назад

I had a new pair of work boots many years ago and they where awful. Blisters on blisters I was almost ready to give up. Then spoke with a old cobbler and he told me to soak them in water (inside and out) for a day. Then drain and slather the outside of the boot in oil (mink or good boot oil) I don't remember. Set boots outside (not in direct sun) for a couple days. Boots can only get rid of water from inside (which pulls the oil in). Ended up being the best feeling / fitting boots I ever owned (logger and construction worker). You might try the idea on wood.

@onemoremisfit 11 месяцев назад

I had a few treated lumber planks on my deck I built 20 years ago that just didn't want to be a deck plank. I think they wanted to be a hockey stick or something like that. They were straight enough when I screwed them down with stainless steel deck screws, but over a couple years they curled up on one end and snapped the screws. When I refastened them with more heavier screws, nails etc, the ends of the boards would just pop up and snap those too. Also I made all the gaps and joints tight and perfect when I built the thing and today all the gaps and joints across the entire deck are completely out the window. Keep in mind this deck was built with all straight good looking lumber when I made the cuts and put it together. I rejected any board that looked warped when I purchased the lumber. But a few years of sun and weather made everything go crazy. Next time I will use plastic planks.

@konradcomrade4845 11 месяцев назад

If You could try doing this: The ancients and I think the Indians, too, submerged whole trunks of trees under water for a decade before they took them out and used them. This way the complete trunk wouldn't tear and splinter (or warp) because it very slowly dried/converted in the water! I am not sure how exactly they did it, maybe they did the drying only in the wet and cold months of the year, so that the rim perimeter didn't dry faster than the center. Possibly they put the trunk back into the water in summer. From that they could fabricate dug-out canoes, water-tight and sturdy! Another advice I got from an old farmer: cut the wood in winter at/around the new-moon days! (that is probably when the tree has the least water in it)

@code3responsevideos872 3 месяца назад

Love the anti clickbait, and also half to see 500k views on this video! Maybe we have turned a corner in society!

@Kilroy72 Год назад

The wood is going to do what it wants to do. The force of it warping and twisting is very powerful. It should have been allowed to dry more before milling.

@WilsonForestLands Год назад

You might be right. We will see.

@gantz4u Год назад

@@WilsonForestLands Thats home depot. They will sell you big old hand fulls of trash for a pound of flesh.

@mattdg1981 Месяц назад

As a deck builder i concur. When a get a framing package delivered i want that stuff as wet and heavy as possible. Especially my stair framing materials. Once that stuff start to dry it moves like crazy.

@camerondavis2872 Год назад

Thank you for not patronizing us with silly sensational influencer crap

@paulgauthier7531 11 месяцев назад

I subscribed because there is no mindless sensationalism. Just information, which very welcome

@jeffbachmann7161 Год назад

I immediatly liked and subscribed when you stated you wouldn't do the silly Click bait nonsense. I think that makes you a great RU-vidr. Thanks

@WilsonForestLands Год назад

Thank you and welcome to the channel.

@JamesOakley-h6q Год назад

Really enjoyed the video. Ive been trying to deal with this same issue myself, although only with one strip of wood which I’ve cut into smaller pieces. I found after clamping pieces together to keep them straight it began to warp again as it wasn’t dry enough. I’ve wet them again and I’m keeping them clamped together for 48 hours this time to see what impact it has. Hopefully it makes a difference but regardless it’s always interesting to see.

@WilsonForestLands Год назад

Someone else made a comment on this video of some ways to keep them straight. You might find what they had to say interesting.

@azdustinb89 11 месяцев назад

When you Said, I like it here in reality...love it two thumbs up for that line

@WilsonForestLands 11 месяцев назад

It’s good to know we have a few other fans of reality out there.

@joey-cn6mt 10 месяцев назад

Good job man!!! Thanks for getting back to me!. I like where you live. I live in the red woods and that is so nice wood to work with. I have a friend that mills it I get ruff sowed 6 1/4" x2 1/2 hart it is butful and nice to work with!!. I hold all kinds of stuff out of it. My name is joey I am 63 and gong strong I don't know any other way!!

@Tinnitussss Год назад

Yes there is one, instead of soaking the timber fully at one go you should do it slowly, target the warp, place a wet cloth, until it gets straighten, once it is straight, then add 20% pva into watrr solution, and wet the same area with this, and do this 3 to 4 rounds, the time between rounds depends on the environment and temperature, so while wood looses moisture contnent, pva absorbed by the timber, then you let it dry, and it will stay straight eternally and never warp again.

@WilsonForestLands Год назад

I have never heard of this but it sounds like you know what you are talking about. Maybe after they dry and warp again I will come back and revisit this.

@LFC4LIFEJEDI Год назад

Would straighten out long pieces of 2b2 and 2b4?

@Tinnitussss Год назад

@@WilsonForestLands Haha, yes I have done this multiple times, it works, the very first experiences didn't work well, and later i did understood why, I was adding too much pva at once, and the wood wasn't absorbing it deep enough, one disclaimer though, it might not work for hardwood species, i once tried it with white oak, unfortunately didn't work, besides pva generally doesn't go well with oak, changes color of the wood, because of some pigments in oak that interacts with pva. In case you want to do this for hardwood, then my suggestion would be lacquer thinned with whatever the basis is, the key point here, any solution you want to soak your wood with, has to be thin enough which can work deep into the warped area and absorbed by the fibers, once the basis evaporates, then the fiber left with the lacquer, PVA, shellac, wood stabilizer, borax etc. which locks the fiber in its position, so that is why it is important to first straighten it, and if your solution basis is the water then the technique will work, if your basis isn't water but something else, then you should soak the timber with that first and let it straighten up. Generally the rationale behind it, because wood isn't homogeneous, and pores are not in the same density in everywhere, and also because of some other factors as well, so wood is in constant trade of moisture within the environment that is in, and based on the wood species once wood loses its moisture up to a point, then it cannot tolerate anymore but starts to shrink and since it isn't homogeneous, some parts loses more moisture content than other parts, and the different shrinkage rates all around, so the way you did, just washing it, soaking fully would basically introduce maximum moisture content, but then when you add your stabilizer solution, the wood cannot absorb because it is already filled up, so that is why doing it slowly is the key, you can start a bit quicker, just brush some water to the area quickly in the beginning then wait some hours observe, and then go slowly, once it is flatten or giving you the signal it will get flatten after several more water application, you can already start with pva/water, when you soak water slowly you already observed your cycle of applying water to it, let's say every 2 hours, then do the same with pva/water solution, I cannot tell how many cycles that is going to take, different for each piece, because the rate of warp is different, so you will find it with try and fails. One more suggestion, if you want to go a bit quicker, then start with water high in temperature, then pva with warm water(not too warm, that corrupts pva).

@Tinnitussss Год назад

@@LFC4LIFEJEDI check my reply to Wilson, I tried to explain in detail, it would work as long as you can put some time and help with the absorption, i might suggest applying with heat, so very warm water but not boiling water, so absorption rate of warm water is much higher than cold water, washing your face with warm water vs cold water, so skin is porous as well. you know the feeling. Unfortunately PVA is not the ideal solution to penetrate deep, so perhaps try with borax solution first, put at least 200 grams to 5 liters of water. I haven't tried pva, borax, water together, but it could work too. Besides you might also clamp the wood while it is drying. Then most probably it will work out.

@LFC4LIFEJEDI Год назад

@@Tinnitussss appreciate the advice, many thanks 👍👍

@AllNighterHeider 11 месяцев назад

I imagine the moisture reintroduced allowed the fibers to relax to where they were originally. Where I fish in Naknek Alaska theres steam boxes in the rafters of the cannery wareouses that were used to repair the old wooden boats. They would staem a lap board and run it into place and fasten them really quick while they were plyable.

@ggrimm79 Месяц назад

Wow, that is surprising! Thanks.

@clivewilliams3661 11 месяцев назад

It stands to reason that warped and twisted timber will return to the same shape it was cut in when it returns to that moisture content. Timber is full of fibres that are misaligned as a result of the growing process and when cut those fibres are full of moisture, as the timber fibres dry out they push and pull, which causes the timber defects. This is why timber for construction/joinery work should be seasoned to get it down to a moisture content where it will be stable in normal atmospheric conditions and then cut to the shape needed. In recent times we have seen timber being kiln dried to a specific moisture content to speed up the seasoning process that normally takes a few years. However kiln dried timber can be troublesome since it is usually dried below the natural state for the atmospheric conditions is then cut and gradually absorbs moisture to stabilise, which causes further defects.

@luvverboy93 11 месяцев назад

Usto work in a lumber yard. When we had some really warped 2x4s I'd set them outside on some stickers with any bows up and weighted the ends to take out twists. The moisture from rain softens the wood and the sun dies the side facing up faster than the underside. Some had to be rotated a few times to keep them decently straight before being put back into stock. Wider stock would usually split and would have to be cut down to thinner stock to make it usable again.

@imqqmi 3 месяца назад

I used heat and bending some boards a bit the other way and clamp it down. Then cool it and it sprung back straighter. I think the resin content in pine boards make this possible. I used a heat gun for heating up to about 100 to 150 deg C, at least without burning them. As for twists I used a thinner piece of wood at an opposing angle to the twist the clamp two corners down sticking up the highest. If it starts cracking, heat it up some more and slowly clamp it down more. It's a bit of a hassle and may not be worth your time and effort but who knows someone might come up with a contraption to automate it.

@speway 7 месяцев назад

lol I can appreciate that you like it here in reality. Damn refreshing.

@WideCutSawmill Год назад

I think a small amount of hype….wood have been justified 😁 I think stack weight and dry half and screw down the others and see what happens I’m honestly impressed how simple and effective that was!

@WilsonForestLands Год назад

I will work on a little hype. 😁 I was wondering what I’m going to screw them down to but someone said to screw them to each other in opposite ways that they are bending so they work against each other.

@Old52Guy 11 месяцев назад

This is great! Given that the big box stores seem to specialize in warped boards for premium prices. Thanks!

@brandonk1502 17 дней назад

Yup, most of the wood they get is crap.

@adunacamilo9863 10 месяцев назад

I used this method one time and it works

@bnerbas 11 месяцев назад

A number of years ago, working on construction, I was tearing down a wall of rough 2+" x 14", maybe 16" wide spruce planks, at least 16' long, maybe more. These planks were stacked flat, held in place by I-beams, stacked to about 15' high - so about 80-90 pces to a stack, and about 8 of these stacks in the wall. They were holding back piles of granular potash in a mine storage barn - potash is KCl, a salt, so very drying. These planks were bone dry, straight as an arrow, and weighed probably no more than 10 lbs each. Beautiful lumber - wished I could have taken some home. So, if you have a way to dry them and pressed flat over the full length, it would seem that any twist, cup, warpage should come out. Maybe adding a ton of salt wouldn't hurt either.

@aex-blacksmithuk2111 Год назад

Damn I wish I had watched your video 24 hours ago! lol We live and learn! Cheers.

@WilsonForestLands Год назад

Thanks for the comment. Now you know for next time.

@ceedaddy 11 месяцев назад

Thats why manufactures steam the boards to straighten or make curves. Afterwards, letting the boards dry to maintain that same shape.

@victoroneill7924 11 месяцев назад

I bought 18' treated 2x8's to replace the rotted out boards in my utility trailer. I picked out straight boards but by the time I started replacing them all got real crooked. The guy at the lumber yard said that if I wetted them down real good they would straighten back out. He was right but you have to work fast before they dry out again🙂.

@vaughnslavin9784 3 месяца назад

Birds Eye Ponderosa pine! Some call it leaf scar. It is considered a defect grading wise and won't be any better than a #3 common. All of the wood trim and some of my furniture is made from this beautiful lumber.

@adamgreenizer 11 месяцев назад

Quarter sawn lumber is the best.

@andnowi 3 месяца назад

Yep, amazing ... reminds me of Russian icons, slats in the back ... you could try to stop the planks from warping again just by nailing cut-offs across the ends and middle

@Drygon54 5 месяцев назад

Do want you do brother, your doing great!

@dsterry74 11 месяцев назад

Wow. That wood was as straight as a board. 😂 My brother told me this would work . But I never tried it. I had bought some 2x6 boards for a porch. Several warped but I tried to force them in place and screw them down. That worked, but so did I, way too much. And the result isn't great.

@vdub5030 11 месяцев назад

I have a bunch of warpped 12' 2x4's left over from another project. I need a bunch of straight 4x4's for a new project. My plan is to get the 2x4's wet, then bolt them together to make 4x4's. Hopefully the twisting and curling of each one will work against the other to keep them straight.

@francoislamontagne6986 4 месяца назад

respect even if you are threathed never curtail to anyone who would have you adpot behavior that is unatural to and your life long morals. . thanks for the tip!

@MoAndAye 11 месяцев назад

I always thought that the problem was from relocating the lumber, as the wood moves to a place with different temperature and different humidity. I don't do finish carpentry, so I just make sure that I paint them as soon as I get them home and seal them to their current moisture level. Then I am safe to store in my own garage for as long as ever. When it comes time to use, if my project requires that I remove the paint, that's what my planer is for.

@edder7157 11 месяцев назад

Those look like pretty nice propellers.

@leeSouthend Месяц назад

On your plans to dry the wood again without warping it. I used to work in a wood yard many years ago now and it wasn't a particually good one. All the sawn wood was left out in the weather and would get wet in the rain then when the sun came out the top few boards on every stack would bananna up to the sun. It seemed to me that it was just that the wood was drying out faster on the top than the bottom that made it warp so if it was under cover and allowed to dry more evenly perhaps with a spacer between each board then the air could blow through and dry the boards evenly on all sides. I think it would stay straight. yep I had alot of time to think about these things working there, cant imagine why ;-)

@Beastt17 10 месяцев назад

I suspect the reason they warped to begin with has to do with the varied density of the wood and the disparity of water content in those areas. Dark grains have a higher percentage of resin, while the light grain areas have a higher water content. The water content drops when the board dries. The resin content remains pretty close to the same. That's what causes them to bend and twist as they dry. Leaving them in the rain restores the water content, expanding the more water-based fibers to their previous dimensions. And when that dries again, I would fully expect the distortion to return.

@DamianoftheRyans 9 месяцев назад

You're HILARIOUS! Love the video! 🤣🤗😇

@no_handle_required 4 месяца назад

Thank you for not selling out to the clickbait crowd.

@radicalrick9587 11 месяцев назад

*You might want to ask a Snowboard or skateboard manufacturer being they shape and mod all kinds of woods into many different shapes, and they do it rather quickly.* *So they might have a trick or two up their sleeve.*

@oybeutu 2 месяца назад

You nailed it with the phony expressions people use for thumbnails. The mouth open in shock one is really too much. I could swear there is someone out there teaching youtubers to do weird gimmicks that are guaranteed to get millions of views.

@JamesMasterPlaster 11 месяцев назад

Wow very cool I had no idea that was possible 🏋️‍♀️👍⚡️

@chrisschulz2607 9 месяцев назад

Hot steam and clamping is the best !

@WiIdbiII 11 месяцев назад

Many years ago when I would work with wood very seldom, ( beings i was a welder) , i would use a airplane propeller straightening table, which i still have, to straighten wood.

@stillwater62 11 месяцев назад

Very interesting information. Thank you for sharing.

@coachkesey 11 месяцев назад

I clamp them to a perfectly flat surface inside. They will dry straight. But will start to curve everytime you cut it or plane it, so evertime it needs to be clamped flat till it cures.

@vernevens1598 11 месяцев назад

In Canada, that lumber is called premium at the lumber yards.

@santiagosurt-li9zx 3 месяца назад

That is amazing man! Thanks for sharing

@jamesbenham2249 11 месяцев назад

Dude, strap then down with strap clamps! If you sticker them and put them next to the radiator, the strap clamps will keep them from bending as they dry 👍👍

@WilsonForestLands 11 месяцев назад

In the follow up videos I just used weight instead of clamps or straps.

@jamesbenham2249 11 месяцев назад

@@WilsonForestLands fair enough. I learned the strap clamp idea when I was dying out some eucalyptus. It's naturally twisted, so it takes a lot of pressure to keep them straight. Best method I've found 👍

@davidswanson5669 Год назад

It just seems logical to me to first examine the degree of the twist, and then insert a counter force to it after resetting it. For example, yours looked to be warped roughly 25° counterclockwise, from front to end. So once you’ve got the wood wet again, and it’s flat, then bind one end down horizontally (perhaps on a table), while causing the other end to twist 25° clockwise. Then let it dry. I realize it’s probably not feasible to achieve 25° opposite of the natural desires of the wood, but maybe the wood needs to be submerged for a day, rather than just rained on. Or maybe you can get away with just 10 or 15° to achieve good results.

@WilsonForestLands Год назад

That is an interesting idea. I made a follow up video where we are trying to hold them down flat while they dry. That is in the process, we will find out how that works. Your idea could be another interesting thing to try.

@rayh72 11 месяцев назад

I was told this procedure by a retired joiner in Scotland. He referred to it as "putting them in purgatory".

@c_b5060 11 месяцев назад

1:28 This attitude get's my thumbs up.

@East7West9 11 месяцев назад

Try using them to bend a curve in them, let them dry in that shape. Can use as an archway or more decorative garden bed or fascia for a curved deck type project. Once screwed down and allowed to dry, should be good. Japanese have some feature where they microwave a log for about 12 hrs and then compress it into half the size to make super strong timbers. Worst case, make a giant crossbow/ballista

@WilsonForestLands 11 месяцев назад

That actually may be a good idea. Use the wood that doesn’t want to be straight for bent wood projects.

@jason-hh6lu 4 месяца назад

Nice video mate.👍🏻

@kellif298 Год назад

I am shocked 😮 Thanks for the video! I did not believe this method actually worked and worked well! Enjoyed!

@WilsonForestLands Год назад

It’s true, shocking results. Thanks for the comment.

@jeffbrewer8810 10 месяцев назад

One possible method is to seal the ends of the boards while uniformly air drying. I Timber Frame and for us the challenge is to slow, NOT STOP, but slow the moisture evaporating from the wood which escapes fastest from the end grain. Again, I’m speaking of 7x8 timbers but it seems the principle would be the same.

@noway905 11 месяцев назад

Yup, straightens them out until they dry out again, even if they are weighted down. Tried that.

@alexlindekugel8727 10 месяцев назад

to minimize lumber moving i waight the hell out of it during drying and normlazation. they hold shap alot better. but steam heat can also be used. as another one commented thats how you can bend wood to shap you want.

@WilsonForestLands 10 месяцев назад

I used weight to dry them in the follow up videos in this series.

@Mike-yl6hs 11 месяцев назад

WELL DONE!!!!

@countmorbid3187 11 месяцев назад

Thank you for not going moronic sensational. There's too much of that around already.

@jamiwilliams5885 11 месяцев назад

Try stacking them on several round pvc pipes so they can breath. Put a weight on the top row of pvc

@carterscustomrods 5 месяцев назад

Id assume they'd rewarp after drying? Ill have to see the next video you posted.

@picklesnoutpenobscott3165 11 месяцев назад

If you want it to stay straight, weight them with a flat object while they dry again…. Wood expands and contracts as it collects water. It moves for it’s whole existence…You plane them after, and that is as good as it gets.

@robertblahnik7685 8 месяцев назад

Wood warps when its cut wet and then it dries. Get it wet again and it will straighten out but it will be crooked again when it dries... I like to get my wood as dry as a tumbleweed rolling through Death Valley in August. It will be as expected, a corkscrewed banana. Then I straighten all of them with my joiner, planer, and table saw. Then 99% of my boards will usually end up under the required thickness and width. So I simply add more wood using wood glue, high pressure steel I-beams and clamps. Then I shoot in panel nails every foot.

@Bushman9 11 месяцев назад

Shed or barn cladding is their best use.

@alexs3119 11 месяцев назад

Dunk'em in the water, push'em down with some weight and leave covered with water at least one inch above top board and keep that level of water for six to eight weeks (minimum) denser timber for three to six months and after some time you'll see sap on top of the water. Scoop that sap regularly and top the water level up. That way water breaks into the sap cells and pushes the sap out of the timber. After that process leave timber to dry the water out properly and leave on dry place for 6 months per inch thickness of the timber so water have some time to evaporate, preferably NOT on draft or windy place and timber should' not warp, twist or cup. I've tried with radiata pine and some local Australian timber and never had any problems. I know it is a long process but pays off

@jeffrichards5008 11 месяцев назад

I did not know. Thanks

@NecroCandy-r9n Год назад

If the wood is dried straight it will remain straight. If you look at all the furniture that's made by using wood that's been soaked/steamed and put under pressure with water to bend it int a shape like a rocker or S shape or whatever (Even the sides of barrels), they stay that way once they dry that way.

@WilsonForestLands Год назад

You bring up a very good point. As crooked as they were, I didn’t have a lot of faith in them, but what you say makes a lot of sense.

@shellilogan771 Год назад

That is what I thought too until uh oh!!! I have been working on two small live Edge i do believe Knotty Pine pieces of wood. they came perfectly flat completely dried as well as about 20 other pieces i got with them, all different thickness lengths and types of wood. I've been working on these two for about a week now about half inch thick sanded both sides of each and resined one side of a piece As of two days ago they were still flat as a board hahaha But today started working on them And oh no! both pieces are cupped Seriously bowed from center to outer edges! in the same shape ! Any advice on what I should do now lol I'm going to be making a resin end table? ps. i live in the hot dry california desert but we had alot of rain last week woods been covered but the humitidy has been high even though its hitting 102, 103 out if i lay it flat leaving it out will it dry straight again? omg! so scared to look at all my other beautiful pieces ! lol

@NecroCandy-r9n Год назад

@@shellilogan771 Wet the cupped side (cup up) and strap it with pressure to flatten it.

@shellilogan771 Год назад

@@NecroCandy-r9n okay! thank you so much! cup up then? i did the opposite, cupside down weighted at center of bow and no water , ive had the pieces in the hot sun 3 days now and no change yet . but we are experiencing unusual higher humidity than normal last couple weeks

@NecroCandy-r9n Год назад

@@shellilogan771 The water causes the wood to swell. The cup side has shrunk, so wetting it will cause it to expand. There's no guarantee it'll ever become perfectly flat again, but it should get much closer.