I got 2 of the 52v aniioki a8 max pros. I did 124 miles on one charge throttle only. Im 5'8" 230 lbs. And had no issues at all. It kept speed around 35 to 37 mph. Did alot of off road and uphill. I live in vegas and windy to. This bike has power and the range is absolutely perfect.
It is exciting to see these larger capacity batteries. I have an e-bike with 2 20ah batteries and it can be a hassle to charge both batteries. My next e-bike will likely be one of these larger battery bikes. Now if only they would use mag wheels instead of spokes on these already heavy bikes...
If you have them wired in parallel when you charge one it will self balance with the other battery. Unless you're talking about charging them off the bike.
I have the Aniioki AQ177 pro Max. Step-thru . It also has the 60ah battery. They use automotive grade plane technology battery. I love the bike. It definitely will do 100 miles. On a single charge.
I bought this bike 2 months ago. After driving for a long time, the battery gets very hot. Nowadays, it does not charge to the end and I turned to help the manufacturer aniioki. Believe it or not, they started extorting money or buying a new battery from this aniioki. I said that I still have a warranty on the battery, but they refused to help me. Please don't buy or waste your money on this piece of garbage
I bought the Aniioki AQ177 Pro Max off of Amazon and it also has a 48v 60ah battery on a 750w motor (wish i had held out for the 52v 1000w version, though). The frame looks better than the Juliet, imo, though the Juliet appears to be slightly better specced out. I can attest that it DOES go 90+ miles, while pedaling at 20 mph. I haven't tested it on throttle only yet, as i like to use the bike for exercise. It topped out at 26 mph on the stock 20 PSI tires, but i recently changed to some 30 PSI tires and I can push it to 28 mph now. The bike and the battery are both heavy, though.
For those who are good with shifting, and don't over load the bike in low gears, a mid-drive ebike with normal bicycle tires is likely to provide the longest travel time. Sadly there are few economical selections available and most are too large for short people ie: 28" or less in leg inseam length. Mid-drives also tend to provide the strongest motors as well. (In combination with gearing and light weight) The down side is that poor shifting and/or heavy application of power in the wrong gear (Low gears) can break chains and ruin sprockets.
only thing about huge batteries is the additional weight will warrant a more powerful motor and controller. And this thing has a basic 1000w motor, 28amp controller. It will probably feel sluggish from the weight
That's not the impression I'm getting as I watch the two main channels of guys who have the Juliett model doing food delivery's all over New York City,
I love it, got an ebike, claimed to do 45km on a single charge, happened to do maybe 35km... Also, the big advantage of dual battery is you theoretically double the amps.
Have a "next gen" bike on order that comes with the CYC X1 PRO Gen 3 mid-drive (3500w nominal 4500w peak) and a single 52v 30A (1560wh) battery. It's advertise as 100m with PA and 45m throttle only. That estimate is based on a class 3 28mph pace. So we have to keep in mind that future motors will become more power efficient too so we may not always have to keep increasing battery size to get more mileage. Great vid!
@@AaronSmith-mn2hu I agree and hope to. I say hope as I have to see how they have the battery connecting, looks proprietary and not sure if they have the firmware locked or not. It's a CYC display that comes with the mid-drive but tailored firmware.
48 volt battery just don't have the punch if you live in areas that have hills the 48 volt battery just don't do it you struggle up hills and battery sag compared to a 52 or 60 volt is noticeable now if you live in areas that are flat then a 48 volt is fine i had bikes with 48 volt batteries and had trouble then i bought the freedom and what a difference I'm from western pa and flat ground is scarce i just went 40 miles on the freedom and still had half my battery with little sag so for me based on my area 48 volts is out again npl nice review
I bought this bike 2 months ago. After driving for a long time, the battery gets very hot. Nowadays, it does not charge to the end and I turned to help the manufacturer aniioki. Believe it or not, they started extorting money or buying a new battery from this aniioki. I said that I still have a warranty on the battery, but they refused to help me. Please don't buy or waste your money on this piece of garbage
@@romavillamiguel9845 I spoke with manager this fraud company. After 2 months the battery aniioki is not fully charging and when I spoke this fraud manager about battery they ask me money. Forget about battery's guarantee
It looks like both the aniioki and the eahorae are using the same battery supplier. it looks like blade cells / pouch lithium. i am curious about this battery more than the bikes. if it is compact enough you could probably use it for other bikes / custom projects. very interesting. about time the ebike industry made some progress.
I just got a Talaria XXX (X3) Concept from China for about $3k, excited because it’s 40AH 5500W, should get a good range. One day I’ll increase the battery size maybe 60-80Ah when they release more.
Checking out the page for it, and also shows that the Romeo will have a cargo rack for the back as well. So that could be quite a big thing for it, personally realllly hoping to see more about the Romeo. Seems about just my style
The batteries that come on these bikes are misleading. While we always seek the higher amp hour batteries, the bike manufactures do not indicate to the consumers if they are 21700 or 18650 cells. Even if the advertisements claim lithium batteries, it is difficult to verify if that is the case once we buy the ebikes because the manufacturers can easily place fake labels the batteries such as being LG, Samsung, lithium phosphate or UL rated without any way for us consumers to verify the facts.
So are your saying it's much harder if not impossible for a UL listed battery to be falsified? There are a handful of suppliers that do provide UL listed batteries in case your wondering,
Ariel Rider Grizzly has been around for a long time with 52 volts and two batteries that total 35 amp hours. It isn't at these price points though. 60 amp hour battery sounds great though.
Battery prices will continue to fall as technology improves and the EV car market scales. The energy density will increase and the cost will decrease over time. Fast charging may eliminate the need for ever larger capacity. I’d like to see more bikes come pre wired for an additional battery. The high power 60v systems seems to have so many advantages, besides cost, I can’t think of any negatives.
Well, sorry to burst your bubble, but I'm learning from comments left here and there, and one comment was left with the owner of the Juliett confirming that the front brakes don't support the weight of the battery that well, and the bike wobbles terribly when using the front brakes, so it seems it's safer only to use the back brakes, (I'de never thought of that) I hope it makes sense,
Probably won't recieve a reply but did you ever get an Eahora? I'm trying to find a good well rounded review on the Juliet or the Romeo and I keep coming up short. And if anyone else has any expirence on either of these bikes I would really apperciate so insight.
The Eahora Juliet is basically the same bike as the Aniioki but with slightly better specs and, imo, looks. I have one, it's a great upgrade from my Lectric XP 2.0. 🙂
Can you offer any opinion about the front brakes not supporting the bike that well, due to the heavy weight of the battery, another Juliett owner said this, (said there is really bad wobble at times because of the weight of the battery, )
@@flolou8496 I haven't noticed any wobble caused by the brakes on mine. They do rub a bit without any pressure applied but in operation they're smooth. My guess is the owner 'bedded' the brakes improperly causing an uneveness on the brake disc surface. Either that or the tire isn't mounted perfectly to the rim. Could be a number of factors. I also need to remove the spoke reflectors as they vibrate at certain speeds.
@@flolou8496 It's surprisingly good considering the seat post isn't suspension. It's a wide area that contours to the rump, but my personal comfort limit is around 2 hours whether it's on this seat or on my XP 2.0 with a Cloud9 Cruiser sadle and suspension seat post. I'd like to swap the seat posts but a suspension post on the Juliet makes it too tall for my liking (~5'11").
Please tell me I have nothing to worry about, if I only plan on using either of there 60 AMP models to make delivery's on city streets for about 5 hours a day doing 75 miles , 5 days a week:
Hmm, I'm not sure why ebike batteries are so behind. On my electric skateboard, I have a 12s8p that is 1450Wh. Not at all a bulky board either. It's about half the thickness of the battery capacity of the bikes you're showing in this video.
Rider weight & cargo weight affect the range of the battery, there is no way to estimate battery range without knowing the weight of rider & cargo on any ebike.
How do you lock this bike? What lock do you use? I’m thinking of the Hiplock D1000, but looking at the size of the wheels and frame shape I’m not sure? Thanks?
I'm looking into the Fabulous big dual motor X2 bike .. It's using a 24ah 60 volt. That's not bad at all. You figure you don't really need dual motor mode full time and it should last 35 miles in normal rear motor, throttle only mode. Peppy bike with 200 Nm of torque using dual motors. Nice jump from a regular 48V motor maybe producing 80Nm of torque. A 100 lb bike with no rear suspension but it's got a torque sensor and cadence system. Very interested in it. Bafang 160 Nm mid drive "Eat your heart out Biaatch"!😁
You are correct that Volts x Amps = Power (Watts), but that is NOT Ohm's law. Ohm's law is Volts = Amps x Resistance; it has nothing to do with power (watts). Not the first RU-vidr to make that mistake.
Many don't understand or know that battery quality will dictate how soon batteries will start to degrade. So that initial mileage you get from these batteries will be like 70-80% in literally a few months. I wish content creators would mention this when they do their reviews and educated people. Good comment!
@@ashegam Agree 100%. Moreover, the more powerful the bike, the better the battery required. Hi discharge rates kill batteries quickly. Have heard many people with the Ariel Rider cannot achieve the same top speed after just a few cycles. Low quality cell + heavy use and neglect = Risk of thermal runaway. We need UL certification of battery packs as e bikes grow in popularity.
I tend to get between 25-30 miles out of a 20ah battery, but that's while limiting myself to 20-25 mph, on throttle. I have 3 bikes (52v, 52v, 48v) with that capacity.
I have 48v 30 AH bike. 1400w peak power. It only does 20 miles or so full speed off its own battery. You have to remember theze batteries are " empty" around 50% discharge level to protect the cells from damage. So all these watt hour calculations are misleading and need halved.
You can substantially increase range and speed by pedaling. A 26" wheel bike with a seatpost is much better to pedal then a 20" wheel moped style bike with a motorcycle seat. Also, because of the 20" wheels it's impossible to have gearing high enough to do meaningful pedaling above 20mph. It's much nicer to throttle the bike with the pedals than with the throttle.
That's you opinion in the end though. A lot of people only use throttle, some only pas and some use both. It depends on the person and use case scenario but yeah those style bikes do suck ass to pedal.
I agree 100%. Anyone who likes to pedal, or is tall or over 30 will much prefer a bike like a Wired Freedom over a kid style motorcycle with pegs or an e-moped bike with a single gear. Nothing wrong with throttle only but it is a little bit of rationalization since those “bikes” really can’t be pedaled. Also, I have both a 20x4 and a 26x4 and find the stability at speed MUCH better on 26x4. Anything over 25mph on the smaller wheels is unstable in comparison.
@@jfly2249 yeah the small wheels are good for acceleration but everyone these days wants to go over 30mph and most bike have like 20in rims so it's terrible lol. I have an aventon level that's modified to 1200w and I love it. 27.5 wheels 52t chainring and 11 to 40t cassette so I can still pedal comfortably even at 30mph and it's stable. Honestly if it was possible I'd go to 29in wheels. Another thing that annoys me is all the typical 20 or 26in fat tire ebikes that are so popular and so many people purchase, just to ride it on pavement 24/7 lol.
@@Nalladolla32 I have a Troxus Explorer 26" wheel fat bike. I modified it with a 52t chainring, 11-28 cassette, and 26x3" slicks. I'm thinking of going up to a 60t chainring, there's plenty of clearance for it. The diameter of the 26x3" slick is about the same as a 29er. The Troxus accelerates very well and I can get to 33mph fairly easily with pedaling. I only ride it on pavement for transportation. I'd want a full suspension bike if I were to ride on dirt.
Adding another 1000 watt geared hub motor in the front, and bumping the peak to 2000+ each would make these much better when needed with switch of a literal switch. If they are offering a 52V version Why not a 72V? That would “murk” the 48/52 versions. We are finally heading in the right direction. Also there needs to be a plethora of lighter full size e-bikes that out out far more power than what is currently on the market. And the 36-48Volt versions need to be upped to 72 to get true climbing prowess. That is probably the main reason people buy e-bikes to begin with especially the full size lighter ones.
They keep the voltage and power low for legal reasons thats why most dont market 72v 5kw bikes since they need to be registered as mopeds or motorcycles. Front wheel motor output should always be lower than rear motor output for safety and if this bike was a mid drive it would climb much better
Our new Trek E bikes advertise “Up to 60 miles in eco mode”. We ride full boost all the time and only get 15, or 45 minutes of riding. Oh well. They’re fabulous bikes.
I bought this bike 2 months ago. After driving for a long time, the battery gets very hot. Nowadays, it does not charge to the end and I turned to help the manufacturer aniioki. Believe it or not, they started extorting money or buying a new battery from this aniioki. I said that I still have a warranty on the battery, but they refused to help me. Please don't buy or waste your money on this piece of garbage🤢🤢🤢🤮🤮🤮🤮💩💩💩💩
A ebike that cheap and a big battery like that. Something sure as hell don’t add up. I bet if you stripped that battery out half the batterys are fake and filled with sand or something.
My response as well. By a 20amp-hr bike like the blue model shown with dual suspension. If you need 40 amp-hr, mount a second shark battery on the rear rack. Benefit of this is weight. Most 20 amp hour bikes will do 40-50 miles depending on how much the rider pedals. Most rides are less than that so only need 20 amp-hrs or so. Meanwhile save the extra 10 lbs...about 10 lbs = 1 kw. Btw, great video and great content for ebikers to consider.
@@lukewalker1051ideally, I'd like to not care how far I "can" ride off a single charge (range anxiety), and just ride. Whether I NEED the extra range isn't the point. I can't really do that with just a 20ah battery
Limited range and small batteries aren't a problem with eBIKES, it's a problem with eMOPEDS. They should just take the pedals off of them and be done with it already.
And if you get stuck somewhere with a low/dead battery, then what do you do with no pedals? Besides legal technicalities, that's kinda what the pedals are there for. You always have that emergency backup.
