Hello all, many people have asked about skipping the sanding step, which is the most painstaking and time consuming part of this whole process. Someone suggested using a razorblade and doing a light scrape on the fretboard. I found a very helpful video on how to do this and I wanted to share with you all. It saves A TON of time. You DO NOT have to sand and you get BETTER RESULTS! I don't want to do a whole new video, because all the other steps are the same, just watch how this guy cleans the fretboard with a razorblade (skip the teak oil part if you plan on staining). I hope this is helpful. Second link shows my results using the razorblade method. NO SANDING!!!! Video to "Razorblade Method": ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NnuUaof2Z0I.htmlsi=noYEXIULziMVQ2B5 My results using this method: photos.app.goo.gl/1xWmrid37VosA5tK7
I used 1500 grit sand paper, and gave me a super smooth fretboard and allowed me to go against the grain. I think anything under 300 grit you are walking on eggshells.
Ebony stain got very dark for me I stain my whole acoustic guitar in that color but I fucked up lol the prep work is definitely very important I stain My guitar and then redid it probably five times because I messed up so many times using the wrong sandpaper or the first couple times I forgot to wipe the access stain off so I was left with this gummy ass guitar lol I had no clue what I was doing but I learned from my mistakes. As much money as I put into that little project I could have just bought me a whole new Ebony stained guitar 🤦🏻♂️
Very nice. If you put enough oil coat then rub with steel wool (rinse and rebeat), eventually you will end up with an ebony feel since the grain won't be there.
Great video Bro definitely an alternative for darkening the fretboard your necks turned out sweet in my opinion a lot of guitars are coming standard with really light rosewood and some light ebony boards but that stain really made them look sick excellent job
Great questions. No issues at all. In fact, it seems like the stain has settled more. It's harder to pick out those areas I missed. As for maintenance, I just use Music Nomad fretboard oil when I change strings.
if anyone watching this wants to do this i would suggest to not use any grit of sand paper below 220 grit. i think 150 is a little too rough and you can see where he sanded good and where he didn't sand as good because the scratches are still there. its a little too aggressive in my opinion. you aren't trying to remove wood. you are just trying to scuff it up. i wouldn't sand it at all if there is no reason too meaning the fretboard is already smooth and not rough. just clean it with mineral spirits to remove any oils from your hands and whatever else that touches it. great video though. not trying to knock on the guy or anything i can just see someone who doesn't know anything really messing up there guitar by over sanding the wrong areas when they probably didnt need to in the first place. also, if you get it on the binding just scrape it with a razer blade but again this is easy to mess up lol.
Hello. The directions on the can said to start with 120. I did 150 then 220. But on a later fretboard I stained, I just did one thorough sanding at 220 and got great results. That fretboard was Laurel and not Rosewood, however. The purpose of sanding is to open the pores of the wood, from what I've read, so I would NOT recommend skipping that step. Maybe if you were using something else like India ink or leather dye, you could. But I wouldn't recommend straying too far from the manufacturer's directions. Unless, of course, you're speaking from experience and have your own work to share?
By far the best video I've seen on the subject of staining the neck. All pro. No goof balling or music dubs during instruction. This is how an instructional video should be. Sub'd. 🤘💀🤘
@@mikefrombloodofthewolf7076 I appreciate the video, I got a Stagg with an ugly ass fretboard I don't know what to do with? It doesn't even look like Rose Wood, yet its too dark to be Pauferro? This seems like the solution I'm looking for, as the crap I've seen used on other vids like shoe polish and India ink don't seem to be a permanent fix. Rawk on fren!
Great video.I never would have considered doing this...the results look great, your method makes sense.There are many times a lighter rosewood really takes away from the overall look.I like my guitars like my metal... Black.I see a project coming on.Thanks! Really dig your band as well.
@@mikefrombloodofthewolf7076 I've got two projects going right now, both black-on-black strats w/rosewood.. one is dark enough I can leave it alone, but the other for sure needs this to finish off the look. I've used that brand of stain before (walnut) and was pretty happy with my results so I'm gonna go for it.
ON THE TIGHT SPOTS NEAR THE FRETS USE A FINGER NAIL SANDING STICK YOU CAN GET THEM AT THE BEAUTY SALON OR NAIL CARE SECTION AT YOUR LOCAL CVS,RITE AID,WALGREENS ETC.
Awesome! Enjoy it! I have a guitar coming in that I thought was going to be ebony and I got some updated photos that I can see it’s rosewood. I’ll will follow what you did. Thanks!!!
@@mikefrombloodofthewolf7076 Yeah I got on a kick and started replacing the built on's.. (still have a few but I don't play them really) So the ones I do play are all set. I got darkening oil.. but then read you shouldn't oil too much or frets can loosen and to be effective I think if have to be daily lol Very tempting!
I'm no expert on wood staining, but it is my understanding that a light sanding opens up the pores of the wood to accept the stain. It also removes any finish or sealer on the fretboard that the manufacturer might apply. Thanks for commenting!
Hi Are you using oil based stain Or water Based Stain ? Do it Last for ever or maybe fade away with Playing many times ? Dose it accept Fret lemon oil conditioner after applying the stain ? Dose it Color the Fingers After Dry and play the guitar ?
Nice work! Looks beautiful. I wonder if it would be a good idea to use a fine steel wool AFTER staining to sort of smooth it out? Also, a you might be able to tape the frets with painters tape or cover them with hot glue or something to protect them to sand better near the fret. Just thinking out loud here. Take care!
Thanks for the video. I have an epi explorer 84 It's all black with black hardware, black emg pick ups. The thing that really spoils the look of the guitar is the light brown shade rosewood type finger board. I really want to stain it as you have done but was really scared of destroying the guitar. This video really helped me decide to give it a go Wish me luck
@@mikefrombloodofthewolf7076 appreciate it mate. If I grow the balls to do it I'll let you know how I go. The process seems easy enough. The execution scares me. Especially since I really love the guitar.
Great video! It's important that you pointed out in the beginning that PATIENCE is one of the tools you'll need. That's for sure. As far as being able to sand closer to the frets, I found that small sanding blocks did the trick. The stain looks awesome. After oiling it at the end, and stringing it, did you wait to play it? And if not, over the course of playing it for a few weeks, did any of the stain wear away, or get on your fingers at all?
These are great questions! I did a follow up video which should answer all of your questions. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OyY2HYFaURQ.html
I’m actually thinking about doing this to my main guitars to “match” the ebony on my seven string Soloist. Only problem is that both of them are neck through Kellys. Were there any issues with dead notes or fret buzz after the job was completed?
It's been a few years since you made this video but, after using this process, did you ever have the stain come off on your fingers from playing? After watching more than a few videos, your process seems like the most work but gets the best results. Thanks for making it!
Great question. The stain will not come off through normal play. If you use any kind of abrasive on the fingerboard like steel wool, it will take some of the stain off. Recently, I stained a Soloist with a Laurel fretboard. I sanded it with 220 grit only and then stained. I got great results and saved a bit of time during the sanding process.
Wow that looks awesome I gotta try this on my soloist! "Four hours of sanding..." Ah good ol' rosewood. Nothing beats a classic! Seriously really nice work man. It looks great.
3 days now. Round 4-5 hours each day to sand down the entirety of a classical acoustic guitar by HAND, JUST so i can stain the entire thing black. I still have the sides of the body but holy fuck is it a job. I love it.
Nicely done, you have much more patience than I! I have a few Steinbergers, many more over the years including the original graphite L models. One of my favorite features are the phenolic fretboards, other makers call it richlite. The Steinberger fretboards are pure black, very smooth; I recall Epiphone did a Dethklok signature with a pure artic white phenolic fretboard. Very dense, no deadspots, very smooth finish. I wish Jackson and others offered color phenolic fretboards as an option. Purists might disagree, but for the rest of us technology is just fine.
Man i want to do this to my neck soo bad but i dont have the supplies or patience lol The rosewood on my Schecter will just have to stay for now Nice video man
Thanks! Yes, it was very tedious and time consuming, the sanding. I could only 30 minutes max at a time. But yeah, I think it looks great! Totally worth it.
There's this company called Nick illusions in they make guitar inlays I got some for my acoustic and they look badass you can put whatever you can think of on the inlays and as long as you send the right measurements it will look awesome. They have a catalog of inlays but when you talk to the guy his name is Mark he will do anything for you, and they actually did two things as they make your guitar look cool and protect your frets
Yes, they sell Higgin's India Ink. I tried it out. It's not waterproof and a small amount of water causes the ink to rub off on your fingers. I do NOT recommend using it. About the sanding, is this something you've personally tried?
I highly recommend the Varathane Classic Black. If you want to see how it holds up against other products, watch this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QfN91ZDmULA.html
Nice video! I'm going to use my first guitar as a practice, its a rosewood LTD, similar to that V. So would you recommend just going to the local hardware store and buying some Black Wood Stain? I've heard of people using 'Fiebings Black Leather Dye' too.
I've heard of that too. Don't know how well it works. I would recommend the black stain I used. I can't imagine that the prep work would be any different.
@mikefrombloodofthewolf7076 Yeah, if you use a new blade and scrape lightly, NOT DIG, it works great! I've done it more than once, and it hasn't hurt anything. It actually kinda make the fretboard feel even better.
@mikefrombloodofthewolf7076 I don't have any videos... at all lol. It's pretty easy, however. Hold the fresh blade parallel with the fret at about a 45° angle (top to you), and lightly (as if gently scraping sticker residue) pull the blade until you touch the next fret, or nut at the first fret. 3-5 times over each section usually works, and 3-5 times in the opposite direction. Or, really, make it as smooth as you like. I do it just enough to take the fuzziness off. Once you've done that, 0000SW, and re-oil it. It should be good to! 🤘😎😁🤘!
im on my 3rd fretboard now. at first i had a hard time with the amount of oil had soaked in over years of lemon oil treatment. also had mixed results using ebony tinted Min Wax gel style as well as poly blends. classic black is absolutely the way to go!
Ultimately, the best way to get that area consistently covered is to pull your frets. I used a dremel on a low speed setting with a nylon finishing tip to get that area exposed enough to take on the black top classic satin. 3 coats as well
Hi! I'm doing this to my guitar , I'm just playing the shit out of the frets , and as soon as they wear out I will change them, and Stain the neck , it would be easier without the frets, now what is that name of the brand of the Paint you used ?
Hey dude! Great vid man. I noticed in your x2n vs hot rails video you mentioned might do a x2n vs emg 81 vid at the end I believe. I am currently wondering if I should switch out my EMG 81 and go passive with an x2n. There’s like no vids out I can find comparing (surprisingly) so would be so awesome and just a suggestion if you were to make that comparison video, which I know you’d do justice as well. I’ve been subscribed, look forward to seeing and hearing more of what’s in store!
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll have to think it over. I love the EMG 81 and wouldn't replace it with an X2N, even though it is a great passive pickup.
@@mikefrombloodofthewolf7076 Yes bro I think the same. EMG 81 is "THE PICKUP" nothing to do is the undisputed king for high gain, and not to mention Drop tuning, nothing even comes close. Many are fooled into the Fishman fluence hype, but nahhh EMG forever. 🤘🔥🔥🔥
@@butcher_0392 I agree with you. The EMG 81 is the standard. There's a reason we all compare other active pickups to it (or passives that emulate actives like the D-Activators). I do have a set of Fishman's, and I like them, but they do NOT "crush" the 81. Far from it.
My only thing with staining guitar fretboards is the (potentially harmful) chemicals that are in that stuff. I mean wouldn't that stuff leach a bit and then penetrate the skin and end up in the blood stream? I love me some heavy metal, but not those kinds of heavy metals! Hehe. Get it? Mmmyeah. Maybe not.
@@mikefrombloodofthewolf7076 Cool. But what about your subscribers? ....or any one else who watches this video? Maybe they should be aware of any potential dangers associated with following the methods you post on your channel? I'm just trying to be helpful Mike. Peace.
@@mikefrombloodofthewolf7076 Good question. Actually I do have proof. Go the the manufacturer's website and pull up the Safety Data Sheet. There are quite a few gnarly chemicals in that stuff. It's flammable as a liquid and vapour (that means petrol-chemicals). It can cause Germ Cell Mutagenicity and may cause genetic defects. It has Carcinogens. It may cause cancer and causes damage to organs through "prolonged or repeated exposure". It may cause an allergic skin reaction. It does also say to use gloves to prevent "prolonged" skin contact. However, it's not exactly clear in the way in which you are using it that could be an issue. Maybe not. As a precaution, I myself would not use it. I would use a non-toxic stain or some other "natural" alternative. Maybe Sumi Ink would work? By the way, I did not write that it is harmful. I wrote it may be "potentially harmful". But at least now we're both better informed to make the decision that seems right to each. That's a good thing right? Take care Mike.
Great video thanks. Does the Varathane product dry to a completely matt finish? Does it depend on number of coats? I think you used 2 coats in your video. I have e tried water based stain and failed in that after a period of playing black dye stains your fingers. I guess it must be perspiration causing this.
Those are great questions. I would say yes, the Varathane dries to a completely matt finish-there is virtually no gloss to it. It is definitely on the satin/matt/flat side for sure. I'm not sure how the number of coats affects the sheen (if at all). I did do two coats. That was just because the prep took a few hours and so I figured I might as well do a second coat while I had the chance. There was no real justification other than that.
@@mikefrombloodofthewolf7076 Thanks for your reply. I am unable to find the product you have used in the UK and so will have to resort to other methods, possibly ferric acetate.
Man this is beautiful, I have my eyes on a black and grey camp Jackson and the only thing that spoils it is the brown fret board, I wish I had someone local who I could just pay to do this as I don't trust myself haha
Will this work with bock inlays?like jaguar necks?im not a fan of block inlays and rather than bind another neck id rather get rid of the block inlays for dots..any help?
I think it would, but removing the blocks for dots is the bigger problem. Have you looked at decals like Neck Illusions? That might be more appropriate for you.
So essentially, sand everything down with about 400 grit, color in the rosewood with the minwax pen, and then use isopropyl alcohol or paint thinner after it dries to get the excess dye out?
@@chadigholam Generally, rosewood is a very oily (internally wet) wood. This internal oil and moisture stops the fretboard from being able to "draw" in any additional pigment containing liquid. Lighter fluid (naphtha) removes a bunch of the oil and dries out the rosewood somewhat, allowing more of whatever liquid your pigment is suspended in to flow (deeper) beneath the surface. Because rosewood is often stubborn to accept ink and/or dyes, you want to do everything you can do to get it as deep in there as possible so it doesn't come off on your fingers so easily, or fade so fast. This is just another one of those things.
No, just be very careful not to sand the inlays or binding, as the stain may settle in the grooves you will inadvertently create. If you watch the whole video you'll see.
@@mikefrombloodofthewolf7076 4 -5 coats works best let dry between coats approx 10 min or so. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083XXTLBV/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A38YPY9A96OZAK&psc=1 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MOTBjxr50ok.html
@@Nate_Sanity yeah and I did damage the fretboard a bit even though I was extremely careful. Plus, it's permanent. I think I'd recommend decals. At least you can go back to the original look.
@@mikefrombloodofthewolf7076 Can't link, but go to; Nathan Dallas Chad channel "Guitar Build Pt. 8 - Dyeing the fingerboard". Seems to work well, I'll try it on my Firefly 338 first to make sure there's no staining worries 👍
Heat the wood up first , let the warmth suck in the stain , if you do the rear to , mix 50/50 white spirit with polyeurathene varnish dip finger in white spirit and finger rub it in its glaze up with fantastic finish (glazed) try on a scrap piece of hardwood