@ 6:57 it looks like it is in A/C mode (snowflake symbol) above the set point temp at the top but when he cuts back the light is pulsating orange which should indicate heat mode so I am not sure. Wave 2 manual: cdn.solarpowersupply.eu/files/(EN)%20Manual%20Ecoflow%20wave2-20230419.pdf The only theory I can come up with is the hose is a tight L behind the curtain and it throttles it which could explain the lower Wattage with the hose connected? Heat Pumps do work even in negative degrees Fahrenheit
I kinda agree with you, but I feel like for the price he paid for it himself without it being sent to him/with a sponsor, he probably read the instructions. Nobody would actually do that and play dumb when they're playing with $2000 basically. But then again we're talking about Tyler here...
This video is pretty much proof that Tyler's "dummy act" is just that...an act. If he can spit out heat exchange numbers like that, I guarantee you he can pronounce zucchini, merlot, chardonnay and filet mignon.
Literally was about to put a comment along the lines of "heat pumps are more efficient" when you went right on and acknowledged it yourself lol... dammit Tyler, with your Jalapenos and electric hammers and whatnots
Tyler, I love you bro but sometimes I think you mess up on your experiments.. 😅 I’m relatively certain that the hoses are for the AC function side of things. Why would you pull in 20 degree air from outside to heat and warm the indoors?
They are for the AC yes. A traditional heat pump uses refrigerant to move BTUs in or out of spaces. You can literally make your own version of this thing by getting a 150 dollar window unit and just flipping it around in the window lol. Or a portable unit; duct tape some cheap insulated tubing to the intake and the supply air side and leave the vent tube for the hot side off.
Yeah since when does a heater need to be hooked up outside. Keep it in the room and all heat is in the room. He is sending heat outside lol. The hoses only need to be connected outside when you are trying to cool the room like every other AC.
@@nevernever2002 Sure you could flip a window unit around if you want all the humidity from outside to be dripped all over your floor. AC units not only remove heat but they remove water from the air.
I am glad someone finally tested it without the intake hose on video. Just as I thought, it heats better without it at cold temps. It also helps to insulate those hoses. That is a lot for an AC and I would not be willing to pay that for it. I would save a bunch and just get a window unit.
Straight from the first page of the manual: Ambient Temperature for Operation: 41F - 122F... Tell me you didn't read the manual without telling me you didn't read the manual
I think everyone here is watching technology connections, auto shenanigans, tylertube, post 10 etc... this is the web we caught ourselves in on youtube 😂
@fluffehgamer4712 I don't care if it can file my taxes for me. If I'm buying it for its main purpose of heating and cooling than it better be good at that.
The reason why it can get more BTUs than the capacity of the battery is because it is most likely a heat pump. They can get up to 5x the efficiency of a regular resistive heater because it is just transferring the existing energy in the environment instead of adding additional energy. Edit: Probably the reason why the heater didn't work in the first part was because it wasn't vented. If it is a heat pump it will blow hot air out the front and cold air out the back creating an environment that is the same as what you started with. If you can vent the waste air to the outside you would get better results.
I have this and I already had an anker solix power bank with solar panels. Just letting everyone know the solix panels do charge the eco flow as well and it works fine with the anker products. You don’t have to buy the eco flow products to go with it
Never use outside air . Only plus to this is it’s not sticking out when stealth camping . But not sure its worth $1000 more than a inverter window unit
The reason for it using less energy with the rear inatke out the window, is down to the lower temperatures decreasing the suction pressure of the compressor which means it requires less power to "compress". As soon as the inatke is room temperature, the pressures starts to increase, it becomes harder to compress and will increase power consumption👍
I came to the comments hoping I wasn't the only one that understands HVAC! You have slightly restored my faith in humanity. To be honest I was sad to see Tyler obviously researched BTU but didn't do the same for heat pumps and was so confident in the limited understanding he had. I'm not bad mouthing him, I understand we and he can't be experts on everything. I still love the channel and will continue to watch but I was genuinely excited for this video and sadly let down by he's presentation.
That's exactly what I was going to say in addition to the higher discharge pressure with a warmer inlet air temperature. AC units behave the same way drawing more power as either the inside or the outside air temperature increases for the same reason. Inverter driven systems are a little different because they may run the compressor at less than full speed in heat mode when the outside temperature is higher and then run the compressor faster as the outside temperature drops to maintain (or at least try to maintain) the setpoint.
Well, inverter systems are more benefical energy wise as well. While being able to maintain a tighter differential, they dont have to kick in and out on full power all the time. They'll just hum away using next to no power. I did find the companys heat output calculations strange though, but thinking about it a little more. In the video, the heat energy thats being added to the room is also being used as the inlet air to boil off refrigerant, and then exhaust outside. So i guess the figures would match up in perfect conditions🤔
Im working on a build for a plug in heater furnace box. It has a heat exchanger built in and a filter you can change. The heater runs on a thermostat plug and the fresh air fans run 24/7. Brings in fresh air, exchanges it across the exit air and is heated before being fan forced and directed to the floor. I hope to make a prototype soon and begin testing. 👍 I also have a cool idea I’m way too busy to even look at where you take a small iron stove and make it so you can burn multiple fuels. Attachments to burn propane, diesel, oil, wood, pellets etc. all you gotta do is let it cool down and change the attached pieces.
Thumbs up for being honest I almost instantly click off a video if they are sponsored by the company. You know how many videos review eco flow products that are bought out from them vs not paid reviews is crazy! Keep up the great work!!!!
I love that you didn’t accept a free unit. Ecoflow literally sends free product to everyone… good job keeping it real!! They would be drooling at the mouth to send you free stuff…
The website does list the lowest operating temperature as 41°F. Which is still useful in certain places (Where I live it only gets to freezing a few times a year but is 40s-50s most of the time), but definitely not in harsher climates. There are cold weather heat pumps that can operate well under freezing temperatures but idk what they do to make them capable of that.
I thought I heard you say this is a heat pump, is that right? If so, heat pumps heat very slowly. It takes time to get a room up to temp and the heat you feel from the unit feels cool, but they can heat a room. In a heat pump heated home, the amount of air flow makes a huge difference in the temperature change. When Mine was installed, they told me to open all the air vents, because the more air flow you have, the better it can heat your space.
I have a heat pump bc I am in the south in the states but it's been down to 28 a few nights the past two winters and not once did my furnace run stage 1 and 2 which is heat pump with heat strips. Heat pumps run a lot better these days than older heat pumps.
I don't understand the 2 tube thing. So one pulls from outside, and the other exhausts hot air. Wouldn't it be better to pull in the air from inside the house/room that is going to be probably 10-20 degrees cooler than the outside air?
I bought a refurbished one and never had a problem and way cheaper. Got mine off there Ebay store. On the display it will tell you the temperature of the air comes out also. Max is fan speed that is to fast for heat.
So...he didn't read the directions. NO heating system is going to be able to heat 20 degree air to 70 degrees in one go. The whole point is recirculating the air. So every pass through the machine, it is heating slightly warmer air. Air conditioners do the same thing. They RECIRCULATE the air. They don't take the 90 degree outside air and magically cool it through the freon coils in one pass.
Eh...actually, most heat pumps and air conditioners can. My central system heat pump is almost 20 years old and has a 28-33F degree temperature drop across the inside coil in cooling, 35-40F rise in temperature in heating mode. I can vouch for 20F as the coldest we ever had here was 24F, but at 24F it was able to maintain 72F inside.
I would agree with you, however you said heating system… a 400,000 btu propane furnace can absolutely heat a 4000 sq foot shop to “un-livable” in no time lol
That’s not how it works. It’s physics and pressure. Air, however hot, can be compressed enough to lower the kinetic energy and slow the air molecules, cooking the air. All air conditioning systems like this operate on these fundamental principles, and which is why they have Freon and compression systems
For heating, I get the impression this product is more for camping trips in November, not for 20 degree winter days. If it gets a little chilly at night, this can bring it up to comfortable. But not for winter time
They tested that thing in all kinds of temps. The best it got for 1 sec out of all that testing time is probably the numbers they used, but then they doubled it arbitrarily. I was thinking about one of these. I'm so glad I saw this 1st!
i think you're supposed to have a small camp fire outside and use the ducts to pull in that heated air... if you have ppl that spent $1200 for this then they'll believe that line to justify that they didn't get scammed...
Mine keeps making a loud squeal when turned on. Sounds like a belt slipping. Haven't been able to find any information about it, or any manuals showing how to open it up to find out what is squealing. Any ideas?
Question...Since this is electric, why not remove the exhaust hose? Would that not also help with the heat and then put it on when you turn it to the A/C?
Bro you do understand that it's basically an air conditioner that works in Reverse right the only way for it to properly work it's for you to keep the inside air and keep recirculating that and as far as bringing it up to 70° or 68° at 500 w that's one third of what a space heater would use which is excellent not to mention you were trying to eat a room bigger than it was capable of and it still did it
Hey mate cooling/heating capacity in aircon/refrig is measured differently. You need input capacity kW. It's a totally different calculation. Love the channel bro
The heat pump in your garage has an electric back up, and that is what’s putting out 120 degrees. Heat pumps alone will only put out about 80 degrees as long as the outside temp is above 32 degrees. 5 years HVAC experience for anyone wondering plus 2 years trade school.
Thanks for the great video! I think from your video, it'll struggle to heat a room, however if you attach the exhaust tube inside your sleeping bag or duvet it's going to be rather warm? So really this is a personal heater / cooler?
This is just my opinion. I feel how it is set up is the correct way but it is too cold outside. This unit basically puts the outdoor and indoor unit together if you compare it to a regular heat pump that has half the unit outside and the other inside on your wall or part of your furnace. The hoses venting outside are keeping what would be the outdoor part of the unit outside. If you disconnect the intake you will just be throwing your heated air back outdoors through the exhaust and creating negative pressure. Now your unit will be pulling cooler air from under the door, around windows, etc.. and be throwing your heated air out. Myself I wouldn't disconnect the intake hose and would set it up just like in the video and like it shows in the instructions. JMO
I think it pulls in air through one hose; sucks the heat out of it and concentrates it to exchange with the air flow going through it in your room, and spits out that now-cooler outside air through the other outside hose. The cold outside air doesn't get into the room (principally). With so many hoses it does get a bit confusing. :) The theory is good - but this particular unit is hyped-up a bit from the looks of it and isn't the most efficient type and isn't rated for the outside temperature tested. I'd love to have a 500W similarly dimensioned device with those hose attachments that was rated for those temperatures and that could run continuously, and was good for A/C up to at least 104. I'm not sure they're available anywhere. :( My interest in this was piqued by those additional hose attachments ... for a moment I was fooled into thinking this might be a contender. :)
nb: for more extreme temperatures and such small amounts of power as 500W, I suppose seeing uninsulated hoses are a red flag lol. With large deltas between temperatures, then all that surface area presented by long hoses sitting between the big temperature difference is going to introduce some considerable efficiency loss. Those hoses effectively become something of a heat exchanger. You can buy similar hoses but with insulated cladding that will surely make some significant positive difference to the efficiency under those circumstances.
The math is easy. Heat pumps don't create the heat like a space heater does. They move it from one place to another. Some can move upwards of 2.5 times as much energy (in the form of heat) as they take to operate. So basically, for ever watt they consume they can move 2.5 watts of heat.
Heat pumps lose efficiency once outside temps fall below 40 degrees F down to 25 degrees F. Below 25 degrees F, they become ineffective as there is not enough residual heat in the air for it to pull, hence why when installing a heat pump, the tech will install an auxiliary heater indoors in order to heat the space once temps become too low. There is an actual thermal switch in the external heat pump that will switch the unit over to aux heat once temps fall below the threshold. Auxiliary Heat will turn on automatically when heat can no longer efficiently transfer heat from the outside air to the heat pump.
This thing is awesome in a small space like tent or vehicle. I found that it is recycling the air sucked through the front. So at initial heating/cooling of your space if you feed it cold/hot air it will will help it get your space to your temp way faster, then you can stop feeding the air and it will do fine maintaining the space temp.
The measurement of BTUs is mote applicable to how much energy is transferred from the intake air to the output air. If you are taking 20deg air and heating it to 60deg that is a considerable heat input. Tyler is being overly simplistic. Not reading the manual to find out the operating parameters of the device is also dodgy in my opinion... At least he tried it with the more logical approach of using one hose to exhaust the cold air. At least you would be able to sit in front of the unit in your camper and feel warmer... These are not really "space heaters". They are small portable units to make small spaces more comfortable. We are thinking about buying one, but understand its limitations. The advantage for us is that ONE device will do 2 things, which is a space and cost saving. We have a slide on camper shell that goes on a tray top 4WD.
19:07 - With air source heat pumps this phenomenon is called COP degradation. This occurs when the temperature difference between outdoors and indoors decreases it becomes harder for the heat pump to extract heat from the outside air. To compensate for this the unit has to work harder, increasing the energy input to maintain the same heating capacity. I am not implying this particular AC/heat pump is efficient or perfect. The input power increase as the heat source temperature rises is normal for any air source heat pump.
500 watts for ~3,000 BTU seems like a better bang for your buck instead of 1,500 watts for 5,100 BTU. But if you want heat, you're not really caring about energy consumption.
Heat pumps don't create any heat. They move heat found in the environment, thermal energy already there. They expend energy moving the heat. I am curious as to the volume of the room and insulation rating. That would be useful information
Regarding the heatpump, older units worked good only down to about 37 degrees. Although this is a new unit, it's probably operating at the same efficiency. Point being, it's a cheap unit with horrible efficiency. Newer heat pumps can go down to 20 degrees with little efficiency loss. And if you want to get really fancy, some inverter drive units can utilize heat pump mode into sub 0 temps!
feel like its a great way to increase and maintain your viewer engagement score. Do things wrong and have people come to comment on how you messed up. good or bad its still a comment
RTFM. Test 1: Temperature is out of range. Needs to be 41F to 122F outside with two hoses. Test 2: In range, but crippled using one hose and pulling vacuum, causing cold air to creep in. The resistance heater test wasn't pulling a vacuum so it had a clear advantage. Test 3: Yet again, out of range, but better conditions. Amazing it actually worked at all. All of the tests were designed to make this unit fail, which is disappointing... not of the product, but of the integrity of the reviewer, who I think was smart enough to know better, as he was rattling off specs through the review.
It’s a heat pump. They’re all basically useless at heating when the outside air goes below freezing. The fact that it’s even putting out 60° air without an auxiliary coil (which is what your home unit you referenced is doing) is pretty remarkable.
This is not true at all. Many units can function All the way down to 17°F without struggling. They just become less efficient at those cold temperatures because they have to go through a Defrost cycle
It's only rated down to 41*, that's why it didn't work when the temp was 20*. Your heat pump in your garage heats at that 20* because it also has a heating element in it which the wave 2 doesn't have. This is more a fair weather heat/ac device. Think, you want to just warm up or cool down a room that may have bad airflow from your normal HVAC system or just to warm up or cool down a tent. It's not an end all be all device even though they sort of claim it is.
Look at the way your central air system works pulls air Though the return in the house blowes air out the supply in the house. Cycles the same air. So what your doing venting both ways is pulling in cold air blowing out your warm air.
You described clearly what the hoses did before testing!!! Then you forgot what you said! lol Sorry man, but if you can't laugh with me/us, I'm sorry! So, you explained that the 2 hoses on the back are the heat pump function... And you explained in a tent, the front should be vented outside!!! Good Job, now you are now realizing your error I think in the video, but you still have outside air being sucked in instead of the room air! Both hoses for heat are designed to be in the room, the front hose should be outside! :\ I'm pretty sure, I've never messed with one of these, but they are supposed to be super efficient! I definitely could see how it could be misleading or confusing!
1) Trying to make a piece of equipment do something do what it wasn’t designed to do and then saying it doesn’t work is dumb. 2) Not following the instructions and complaining about it is also dumb. 3) comparing to a purpose designed electric space heater is an unfair comparison. If you have full time access to 110v power, buying the EcoFlow to heat (not its primary purpose) is not a wise decision. If you are running in an of grid environment, like an RV or vanliving, and you need battery/solar powered AC, this is the perfect solution, and you get the added benefit of heating if needed, but most of those customers would know that there are much better solutions for just heating. Bottom line is that nobody that knows anything about what the need is buying this for heat.
Why would it need cold air from outside if it is heating up the air from inside? Sounds like you are just supposed to keep the hose inside so that it can keep circulating inside air.
But if your using it in a tent or a small building that is not insulated you would get the same results as he did with the tubes out the window so iam glade he did it that way even though you would get more heat from not useing the tubes
@@raycenewswanger4974If it is a proper heat pump, yes it is. That's how they work, they move energy around (heat = energy) look up heat pumps real ones. Technology connections makes a great video on how they work. If it is however just a resistive heater it's probably trash, but Tyler isn't exactly known for his experimental rigor there is a room size and insulation ratio that will simply prevent a heat pump of this size from doing it's job. And there is a temperature outside where it will simply not be possible for it to extract latent heat from the air outside. (Just before freezing is basically when they fall off a cliff and he clearly states it is below freezing outside)
That's not exactly how Heat pumps work. Heat pumps have reversing valves that change the direction of refrigerant compared to a regular AC system. Think of a Heat pump turning the inside AC coil into the outdoor coil and vice versa, depending on the heating/cooling load. So, the exhaust tube Tyler was using was blowing cold air outside.
I think it is more intended for environments that dont get below like 50, thats not a comfortable temperature to sleep at for some people so they would appreciate being able to get like 72 out of 50 degree ambient, Its not really intended for environments like ours that actually get cold
I think when the air is too cold, it can't use very much energy because it's not able to extract very much energy from the cold air. So it's just a product of physics since the amount of energy the unit consumes is proportionally related to the amount of energy it can extract from the intake.
its getting hotter each passing yr....& when pwr is dwn from weather...alot of old ppl dealing w/the humidty....which could turn out 2b dangerous for em....& ppl dont have the money to blow on stuff that dont wrk....when they rlly need something like this but greed gets n the way of making something that could of been a great product....ur vid is a must...cuz....stuff like this is a necessity now....but it needs to rlly wrk...
40F differential isn't that big of a deal. I normally run a 28F-35F split across the Inside coil on my home heat pump in cooling mode. In my car I've had 55F splits. But n th are non-standard ACs running my special sauce.
Why is it hooked up to the window if you're heating the room? Wouldn't you want to heat the air that's already in the room? I believe those attachments are purely for the air conditioning part not the heating part. Try this heater just sitting in room by itself with no hoses.
Duh ! IT'S A HEAT PUMP. The instructions say not use the exterior heat exchanger air inlet if below 40 deg F. Efficiency drops to the point it is nearly non-functional. Just use interior air to supply the heat exchanger and only connect the exhaust hose outside. Just have to address the negative air pressure with some other conditioned air source. Then it will work fine (within its design limitations).......
I would try running it on ac mode with the pipes running from the front out the window because the heat that comes of the back gets toasty give it a shot we use our portable air conditioning units to help heat our kitchen in the winter
I know you acknoledged that heat pumps are more efficient, but I wanted to expand on that a bit. Heat pumps move already existing heat around. They don't have to create it. The space heater you referenced has to create every bit of heat you get out of it. Edit: I want to add that a heat pump is going to struggle any time its cold side is below freezing as water will freeze to the fins and prevent airflow. It isn't as much of a big deal with your house unit as the there are a lot more fins and there is generally an electric emergency heat that kicks in conventional heating elements when the heat pump can't keep up.
Not defending the product but you don't need ventilation to the outside for an electric space heater. I believe using the heating option without ventilation to the outside would work way better. With a.c. you need the ventilation to transfer the heat out of the house.
Now that it's getting warmer can you test the ac side of this unit that's is what I am interested in I never thought it would be much of a heater in the first place that was just a waste of time on ecoflow to ad it to drive up the cost but I want to know how does it cool
