EEVblog  

So enthusiastic it seems, I lost my balls.

It's OK Dave, Louis is always misplacing his balls :)

@@EEVblog balls... oh - balls!!! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iwrzK0nX1bg.html

couple days ago i removed south bridge from PC motherboard just using cheap HAG but with help of my kitchen electric stove as pre-heater - it was really simple but mobo now screwed like propeller blade :) :) :) ru.aliexpress.com/item/220V-240V-450W-450-Degree-LCD-Adjustable-Electronic-Heat-Hot-Air-Gun-Desoldering-Soldering-Station-IC/32272327737.html

Hey Louis and Dave, I own a rework/solder station and have the same issue with flickering (fluorescent) lights in my workshop. I did some investigating with a power meter and in my case at least it is caused by the logic board modulating the heating element on/off in short pulses once it is up to temperature to keep it at temp. Taking the heater off the stand also causes my lights to dim, placing it back in the holder fixes that issue immediately (while the fan is still cooling it down). The entire workshop is on one breaker, separating the lighting from the outlets at the breaker panel should solve the issue.

Dave and Louis joining in a rant would be interesting to see :)

Bigclivedotcom will show up to keep them in line. Well, probably will make it worse! :)

Actually, I think it would be quite comical. Have you ever seen Louis and Jessa before? Bloody hilarious.

As long as he is bringing the bubbly wine I think all will be well!

yea right they would do all talk no work like always... these dudes everyone look up to need to learn better soldering skills they are both horrible with soldering iron imho.

Life lessons learned from repairing branded pricey crap, yeah :D

Misty Moo Not everybody likes to beat around the bush (even when it's completely unnecessary, useless and even counterproductive) all their lives you know....

Misty Moo I like him. I don't think he'd be my friend in a hurry but I respect what he does and how he gets things across.

zivizivi he calls bullshit when he sees it, shame you all can't deal with it. Then again, you're hardly worth it.

Ollie B why do you care so much if we are not worth. too much drama and nothing real to learn or gain from his content. just a guy loves to listen to his own voice. and the real bullshit is trying to sell crap from youtube.

sycophant

Exactly! Brushless motors are everywhere now...

mikeselectricstuff Exactly, I have much weaker hot air station which does the same. It uses a TRIAC in leading edge phase fired controller circuit, which is the source of that flicker.

yea, 110v sucks

Yes, Louis needs to not run that on the same circuit as the lights. When I'm down in some old cellars doing my work with a 2kW hot air gun, the lights flicker like crazy. Old wimpy wiring and long runs from the breaker panel tends to do that to you.

Induction does strange things :P

It could be, but a JBC JT-A at full power causes zero flickering. Maybe the Quick is more powerful, but I don't think it is *that* more powerful. As much as I love my Quick I have to acknowledge that the $1200+ price difference comes from cheaping out on the power supply.

Boffin A typical 120V US circuit may be either 15A (1800W, #14 copper minimum) or 20A (2400W, #12 copper minimum), both are quite common though in very old structures the 15A circuit was much more typical since in the first half of the 20th century a typical household load consisted of lights, a radio, later a TV, and the occasional clothes iron or vacuum and that was about it outside of the kitchen. However, the tendency towards flicker really depends a lot upon where in the AC cycle the heating element is being powered on. I would imagine they are using a random phase triac driver, which means you can be switching on a high powered heating element right at the AC peaks with fair regularity and if your circuit is already loaded down or has a fairly long run back to the mains panel then you can get noticeable flicker, particularly with fluorescent and LED lighting. You might well be able to get away with swapping the random phase triac driver for a zero-crossover driver and resolve the flicker issue so long as long as the temperature regulation loop is not adversely altered.

>cheaping out on the power supply there is no power supply, heating element is directly switched to the mains

rasz exactly

Boffin Also it is an old NYC piece of shit building, probably just like 3 breakers for the whole place and 16awg wire

its mianzi, aka lying in your face being more polite than bringing bad news, classic chinese

Same with cheap chinese scales. They're good value for the price, but absolutely not in the professional instruments league. I can't imagine that someone would seriously suggest this as equipment in real lab :-)

Thought the same. "classic Dave, puts the word "quick" in a 30+min video" :D

Hey, at least 3! :p I switched over to the B&K for the ability to see it on screen :)

Which one: the 121GW or the other one? 'Cause the 121GW has Bluetooth Data Logging, it would be a good substitute of the B&K

I doubt it would integrate with Louis' Open Broadcaster software as tidily as his usual DMM does, and Louis is many things but I don't think he's got the patience to program a connector :-)

PhilfreezeCH with an Open Broadcaster plug-in?

what reflow station do you have? do you recommend it for hobbyist? i dont have the 300$ to spend

Man my laser printer does! I can't believe how much current that thing sucks down when it's warming up. I'm surprised it doesn't trip a breaker.

I have one of the youyue 858D reflow stations. It works fine for hobby use. Just be sure to check that the ground and the fuse is wired correctly if you get one.

Check the optocoupler that drives the triac of AC heating element to see if is a zero cross type rather than a random phase that placed by mistake and causes the room light flickering.

KAPTON TAPE FTW!

Kriss Olshaq I use Kapton tape as well, but I also rather like the idea of using silicone sheets, so I may have to give that a try one of these days.

I use piles of Kapton tape as well. The silicon, in many cases, is easier to just flop a strip or donut shaped piece on top.

Don't really need flux for a hot air removal; heat transfer is through a large volume of hot moving air, rather than a small stationary contact point with a soldering iron. Flux _could_ be useful (very slightly anyway) for thermally connecting parts that would otherwise by physically insulated by a small air gap that the flux could fill. However, in practice I doubt most technicians bother all that often for a straight removal, though I notice Louis often does as a sort of tell for when the chip is up to temperature. With all that said, I'm looong out of the industry, maybe we're all meant to be using flux all the time now.

I have the sparkfun station & use it for repairs. Gets you there, cost me 200 plus COD charges in Canada.

861DW has 120l/min, Atten I think only has 24l/min.

Attempt to prevent them from working loose

This doesn't work on my 881D

@@mitchcm that's a bummer! I've never used the 881d. I only have the 861d model. (Also I wrote my original comment wrong; it is ch1 and ch2 to toggle sound)

I’ve seen one clone with a handle on top, and the air handle rests on the side. Some eBay seller do sell the real thing. eBay should also protect you from fakes for refunds. But you can can contact the global site and see if any locals are authorized sellers. They are looking for more distributors now and branching out. www.quick-global.com/2-lead-free-rework-2.html

Gadget Review Videos I was looking at this one www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fast-QUICK861DW-lead-Free-hot-1000W-High-Power-Hot-air-Disassembly-Station-A/122960673452 tho a bit skeptical because of price. There are three available in ebay Australia - one for 270, 370 and 470. The price variation is worrying!