Great meter... Not an ad but an informational for all my fellow spark junkies... I had Probe Master make 8"-12" custom leads for all my ESR meters. I ordered 3 custom sets and different tips for under $100..
Was that 8"-12" leads length your own choice or some recommendations? I am about to replace the original alligator clips with the Kelvin type clips and longer cables. But I haven't yet decided how long should I make those cables.
Nice. At >$800US, I figured I'd just use the LCR meter at work if I needed one, but the price tag on this one is actually pretty reasonable, even with the accessories (which are also pretty nicely priced). Actually I had just finished pulling the inductors off a dead motherboard just before I watched this video. Looking forward to the other LCR meter teardown/review videos.
I just got similar meter DER EE DE5000 today. It's very nice. But I have noticed right away that the input spring terminals are not nearly deep enough for components with long leads. My BK Precision 879B has much deeper and easier to use terminals. DE5000 has too narrow slots in plastic and the entrance into internal spring terminals is also too narrow..
@EEVblog I've seen some videos of people removing that epoxy by heating it with with a heat gun until it becomes brittle. A small blade can then be used to pry it clean off.
For RF components: up to how many pF can be measured and with what accuracy? For the inductance I would be interested to know if, at an extremely approximate level, it is possible to use it to easily build turns in the air for tens/hundreds of nH, and then weld them and definitively model them on the final circuit (with the VNA). If this is not possible, what would you recommend as a cheap bridge, perhaps (also Chinese) complete with Kelvin pliers? Thanks
Received my meter yesterday from Japan. Customs label said $62 US, paid $110 US (doesn't matter multimeters are duty free in Canada). I suspect $62 was the sellers cost. Ran tests against my older B&K Precision 878, almost identical (very small variances). A very well constructed and accurate meter with a great frequency range! It uses a custom pair chipset designed specifically to build an LCR meter.
Mathieu Riesling Great meter - very accurate. Get the power adapter. Only thing I don't like is the APO (Automatic Power Off) feature (?) which will turn it off after something like 5 minutes to save battery but as it takes about a minute to calibrate it's a pain in the ... ;) When on battery I just make sure I hit the back light on and off every few minutes to keep it running but if you are going to do any long term measurements use the power adapter (has an odd plug so order one from them) to keep it running (APO disabled when the adapter is in use). Other than that small annoyance it's a great meter and I've compared it to my B&K Precision meter and they have pretty much identical readings. The B&K of course has a better range of test frequencies etc...
@EEVblog Can't hear the echo but I can hear the aircon with my desktop speakers. Well, I could hear it at the start when you're looking at the camera but with the bench shots it's barely there. It falls into "vaguely audible PC fan" volumes so my brain autotunes it out :-) I actually don't care I can hear it, but you were wondering whether it'd be a problem in your last video.
Why there is another LCR meter with the same model number and similar appearance but a different brand name; DER EE DE-5000? Is it such that one of them is the replica of the other one or ... ?
I recently bought one new on ebay. I tested on a 2mH inductor at 100hz and it measured correctly at 2.0mH. I then switched the freq to 1000Hz and the measurement went to 3.88mH. I'm no expert on the effect of frequency on inductance measurement but that diff doesn't sound right.
Hi I like your DE-5000 LCR meter tear down video you explain well ,but I have two questions for you, on the bottom of the meter in the lower right corner there is the red (+) banana jack and the black(-) banana jack can those two jacks be used to take meter readings and if I buy after market kelvin clips can I plug it in in those to jacks on the bottom of the meter thanks
@hitachi088 Yep, that's how much it costs to make it outside of China. Making forms for custom plastic casing costs a fortune for small/medium series for example.
Dave I cannot hold a candle to your knowledge. But regarding lacking input protection: we cannot measure even resistance of a component wired within a circuit, let alone a live one. All these L, C, and R components need to be disconnected from anything else, and without any power so that this meter can apply its own 100khz signal and get a feedback. I agree that some shielding would be very good in any case, however, input protection devices are not really needed, and could actually skew the readings at different frequencies. I would appreciate if you could compare DER EE E-5000 to UNI-T UT 612, which seems to have the exact same internals, and readily available in my country, unlike DER EE. Mr. WytNucls from Germany made a rather positive review of UT 612 in EEVBlog in 2013.
I got one for cheap and could not resist. Its a better meter than my Agilent, I guess that's why he never reviewed it, might have lost him another equipment sponsor. So sad that this is the way the world works today.
"Full reviews take some time..." Indeed, seeing your video was uploaded in late 2011 and it is now Feb. 25, 2018! Is this meter still the cream of the crop in 2018?
yes. for the money. there is real pro-spec gear in an entirely different price range - stuff with readings that might even mean something, too! But who's got the money for that equipment? Or the SPACE!
@banjax66 I have no association with the company. What's so crap about it? Apart form a few small things, I think the design and build quality is pretty good, it generally looks like and feels like a solid professional instrument.
the stupid thing is stuck in auto mode. I change it to capacitance and put the probes on the capacitor and its scanning between all the modes hunting to figure out what i connected to it. I want the thing to check the freakin capacitor but it will not leave its auto detect what i connected mode. My other cap checker tested this cap as good but this meter doesnt seem to want to check it as a capacitor and insists on trying to figure out what it is but cant.
Nothing can. Don't let anyone tell you different. Best bet is to use your signal generator / oscilloscope / RF probe to locate and prove the leakers if you don't want to desolder suspects. Thermal cameras that attach to your smart phone may help locate suspects.
@@skeggjoldgunnr3167 I don't have an oscilloscope yet.. but you are right on every word you said.. I just didn't know about the thermal cameras for smart phone...would you mind explaining more about it to a beginner ? I know the ohms law.. lol joking.. I know over current ( owing to shorts ) produce heat but the doubt is about the necessary amount of heat for the sensor to " sense " it...
@@TeacherBrunoOneil I own a SEEK Compact $199 thermal imager camera that attaches to my iPhone 7+. I use it first the instant I get the shields off of a phone board that I am to diagnose. It will find the easy fixes right away. But only the easy ones! 40% of them are fixed this way. It sometimes points out the culprit like a big glowing neon sign. Other times - I gotta think. Invariably it is a failed capacitor that it finds right away. ALWAYS. It is sensitive to tenths of a degree in temperature difference. The optics are a bit of a problem; not made for up-close work. I had to buy a ZnSe CO2 laser collimating lens, glue it a correct focal distance from imager lens to act as a macro lens, allows close-up work focus. I chill the board, get camera focused and aimed at suspect area wideview...apply power, have a look-see... If you're not getting enough heat for the known short to show itself - pump up the volume pump up the volume (more AMPS!) My 0-36VDC power supply can deliver 45 Amps...I bet that little 0204 mlcc SMD cap will glow sooner or later. (somebody has to be in control of this diagnostic process and I hope it's not a little mean-ol' capacitor pickin' on ya. If you're not careful, it can make you look like a fool if you let it.) Also of interest in locating a leaky capacitor is a near-field probe w/ GasFET pre-amp attached to a spectrum analyzer. Just wave it around the powered net looking for a little radio station broadcasting it's troll signal of leakage spark gap noise.
@@skeggjoldgunnr3167 interesting but I am still beginning in this field. For example. I still have problems to read schematics and if I have to inject power on a specific net of the circuit, I may find it really hard to know where I just add it. The truth is, I need to keep studying. Maybe you should do a video explaining how you do it. I wish I could have friends like you who share equal interest and understand I am a beginning, which doesn't mean I will be a beginner forever. Especially because I do repairs for a living so yes the better and faster I become, more money I put in my pocket. I'm from Brazil...Rio de janeiro. It's hard to find certain tools here and components. Geez, components are so damn hard to be found here.
Why would made in Taiwan or made in China be any different, considering that the very fine video camera computer you used to make this RU-vid content likely comes out of China? Gone are the days for old school remarks like this, not befitting of the fine content you put out.
Most expensive (feels like it) meter I've ever bought - and it blighted me with DHL so it is really unforgivable - what I don't get is why it is sold as contraband!!!!!
What a waste of hard earned money! If I had paid more then £40 UK pounds for that crap I would of sent it back to my retailer and asked for a refund. It looks so cheap on the outside and looking on the inside, it looks even cheaper! Dave, I have to ask.... Did you design this crap or you have shares in the company?
