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I was hoping you'd do a Hioki review! I've been using a DT4252 for a few years and I've been very happy with it. These meters deserve more recognition.

Dave, at 10:07, the buttons are crooked because they are representative of the actual buttons on the front of the meter.

I have one Hioki DT4256 myself. It is a great quality Japanese product, in the same league of (the best of) Fluke. I have also seen another video around of a barbaric torture test of it and HIOKI did a great job sustaining abuse. People used to Fluke will not get disappointed with this beast.

Yes! Very helpful product review! Please more product reviews like this, esp aimed at the hobbyist market (sub-$200 kit). It is also very awesome to get an honest look at a brand many don't know about. It is very helpful to introduce other brands available like this, besides just Fluke. I'm sure many viewers pass up great deals on meters and other decent equipment because they've never heard of the brand before.

Gotta say, or repeat, this is the world best for electronic equipment review. Seriously. What makes RU-vid special. Thanks Dave.

Bought a Hioki DT4282 recently and I love it!

Doing the Hioki pokey.

Doesn't a little flex in the case mean it's less likely to break when it bounces? Need to drop this one off the bridge like you do the others.

The labels on the back are angled to match the angle of the buttons on the front. Probably just copied and pasted from the cad.

as a sparky in AUS (Sydney) I bought that clamp meter (the older model) 4 years ago at the start of my electrical apprenticeship.. and I'll vouch for how tough it is.. I said to myself when I kill it I'll buy a fluke.. still can't kill it. even dropped it off a 2 story house testing AC units... love it. and now after seeing this video I just purchased the multimeter you just tore down! thanks for the videos mate, love them.

In relation to your question at the end... I appreciate review videos and look forward to future ones :)

I've owned the DT4282 meter for a few years and it's top quality, the only issue is 4 AA's only last about 100 hours, but performance costs!

Product reviews done well and comprehensively are welcome. Nice to see and hear a no B.S. review of equipment before I make purchases. I wish it were so with all electronic gear.

Hello Dave, thanks for all your comprehensive and informative videos! I'm glad to finally see a clamp meter being reviewed. Suggestion - you have many good videos on how multimeters are designed and how they work. Would it be a good idea to perhaps do one on how clamp meters work? Also, teardowns on more clampmeters like the popular UNI-T UT210E would be interesting too :-)

Yes, more reviews please, I like your methods and value your opinions

Just picked up the DT4282, it addresses every single one of the flaws you pointed out in this video. Granted, its about $200 more! Such a great meter.

thanks for the review have been looking at these recently as an upgrade

16:20 the manual says the open probes voltage is up to 5V, but the max it will display is 1.5V, so it will light up any led.

Wow, a good old-fashioned multimeter review!!! Good stuff :)

Hioki just introduced an all new handheld DMM model DT 4261-90. Good stuff!

I like that they actually supply the Rogowski coil as standard, instead of making you buy it separately. That's a win in my book

25:30 Yes, there is a very good reason for that crystal - as your integrating A/D converter needs precise timing for precise integration.

yeah more product reviews Dave - love em!

There is a very good design reason as to why the clamp meter input terminals were not pcb mounting (as mentioned at 24:58). If the socket was soldered directly to the pcb the flexing caused by plugging in the probes will eventually cause cracking on the solder joints. Having the wire links provides mechanical isolation.

More reviews! I've never heard of Hioki, but now I know they aren't half bad! lol

Keep the reviews coming!

Hioki made great meters back in the day. I found a 1985 Hioki 3200-50 at Goodwill for 5 bucks. Fixed a couple of micro-switches and it was good as new. With case and original leads. Probably the only handheld multi meter to have a 20 micro-amp range (10nA resolution) and a 10A range (through the leads). Resistance, continuity, vac, vdc and current is all it does but it does those jobs very well. Keep your eyes open at those dollar store for those rare deals.

Def go with more reviews. Love having things to drool over lol

Never heard of Hioki before. They look decent build quality. If they are not to expensive I might get one.

Multimeter reviews, I've missed them. More please :-)

1V dropout? Looks like you could whack a couple of Batterisers in there!

Yes, more product reviews!

Thanks. Had a good laugh on beeper tests :D.

Brilliant review - as usual, but still brilliant.

Yes ! More product reviews please!!

I'd definitely like more review videos. EEVBlog style, of course

I liked the review + teardown !

maybe using a more flexible case actually helps it absorb impact better tho

Just ordered a hioki cm4371 clamp meter can't wait till I get it.

Hello, I have the Hioki clamp meter 3280-10. Good and light. Just miss the diode check function. Please do a review more detailed of these and other hioki products.

Nice meter and cool review. Thanks. 😉👌

These are very useful for us small business owners who have to spend wisely

"I want my lily gilded!" Haha :))) The best one Dave! @14:28

Thanks for that Dave. I only wish they would have sent you the 4282 top of the line meter. It really is a beauty!

At 10:20 I cannot miss the rotary switch (the white plastic) which looks very similar with the Fluke ones. High quality and resilient rotary switch which will last many years of work! Nice!

More product reviews? Yes please.

Even an electrical DMM should have low capacitance, for finding the position of breaks in cables.

Cmon it almost ended up that Brymen is better brand than Hioki :) since Dave got that re branded meter no more reliable multimeter reviews... Big problem is that you need two hands to flex the meter... really?? :) Dave also was not impressed with selector switch and Fluke 87 his favorite uses exactly the same one... if it was Brymen I am sure it would pass that test right away :)

Thanks Dave. The reason the button images on the back of the kick stand look skewed is that they mimic the actual buttons which are slightly tilted either side below the display. Technically correct but visually odd.

I have one question about that clamp meter. What type of wire are the four leads going between the PCB and the clamp? As there are a huge difference in quality between single stranded PVC coated wire and tinned multi-stranded silicone coated wire.

Nice, I want to know the reference of the discharge tube

10:15 It matches the button shape on the keypad :)

I can see on the clamp meter over time the wire attachment on the clamps is going to fracture the solder joint, should have used strain reliefs through the PCB.

Field electricians like to have some way to tell the difference between a transient short from a full contact short. Hence, the latching alarm and dead short LED. It helps them trouble shoot what they don't understand. The custom plug on the leads prevent onsite bogus lead extensions made from Romex. Happens all the time. Nobody likes ladders. The wireless from Fluke is the real solution.

I think the case is little softer in nature because to add more protection against physical tortures. Its rather add on quality I guess. It would be nice if you do comparison drop test on all the brands you have including EEVblog one.

I'd like to see a SANWA teardown. I'm quite happy with mine, but not seen the more recent ones like the PC7000.

yes.. there should be a review dayyyyyyy!!!!!

The moving wires in the clampmeter (as you open and close the clamp) soldered directly to the PCB looks like it wont last long.

Nice test equipment

I have a pocket multimeter and a clamp meter of this brand for the last five years. Good quality.

Hi Dave! It would be cool if you could manage to compare different multimeters rms capability with difficult ac signals.

I found that with multimeters the speed of response (autoranging as well as continuity and many others) is somewhat proportional to the power consumption. Maybe that is a tradeoff they make and for an industrial meter speed was more important than battery life?

The silkscreen next to the discharge tube says Z1 01. Doesnt that mean that it is a zener diode?

one purple and/or pink button is 100% Japenese spec

9:37: The user manual stated IEC 61326-1 Portable Compliance. See Joe Smith's excellent RU-vid presentations of how he applied high voltage impulses to different models of multimeter, some were dead after just one 'low level' impulse. ? Want protection against high voltage surges, then look for a meter that complies with IEC 61326-1 Portable.

21:21 Looks like a normal IEC C7 will fit, so DIY/replacement leads are an option.

The clamp meter is ideal for the person going around the shop floor setting up the spot welders, no high voltage to test but large currents.

dave check out the kyoritsu kew 2200 clamp meter! now that can definitely fit in your pocket I've got one its great for getting into tight spots in switchboards (sparky) also more product review vids sounds great.

i usually hold a cigarette lighter to my gas discharge tube as party trick.

Maybe there's some sort of cap or too high resistor between the leads and continuity LED? Maybe you could remove it.

Very well product from Japan.

I thought the Z101 designator might point to a zener diode, but still cool nonetheless.

..Some years ago I bought one of these 3280-10 units.....after replacing the battery....readings are now not consistant/accurate...AC volts reads around 138...should be 120...You have any clues? I also have 2 small bicycle headlights that use coin cells...both quit working properly after replacing the battery...

You had such a great video years back for a $100 mulimeter showdown. Reall miss it. Is that tied to the fact that the EEVBlog BM235 is out?

I have to get myself one of those EEVBlog multi-meters.

UL etc. testing costs bug bucks. And full retesting after any changes in design or components.

Just FYI, Fluke clamp meters continuity are slow like that as well. I haven't seen a clamp meter with a proper continuity speed.

Can you put the products in your own price/quality bar?

Was that a 5.1 MHz crystal?! Or is that simply KHz? Does it need a high speed crystal for the frequency?

wonder if the voltage detect was a voltage number .. of just the presents of ?

I own both the DT4256 and the DT4282. The 4256 is great in the toolbelt and for the price in NZ you get considerably more functions versus similar priced fluke and has better ratings compared to kyoritsu counterparts. As expected the 4282 totally smashes the 56 but it does cost more than double! I wouldn't however carry it around as it is heavy and better on the work bench.

Hi Dave, please do a review of the Mooshimeter.

Just loved.!!!!

I am nitpicking, but 4:05 "quite thin" ? It's as thick as it normally gets for the functionality. I feel cheated though, that you should have mentioned the cost at the start so we had a context for the rest. Your flex test of the case was a waste of our time. Who cares if it makes a little noise when you do that? Either slam it to the ground to see what it survives, or stay home, don't guess. If I did that to you, you'd make a noise too. ;)

You need narrow clamp amp meter to fit into modern dense electrical box. Big and bulky clamp amp meter are even dangerour to work due to possible loose wire. Next you need wide frequence range for measuring inverter control motors.

I notice that on the packaging is states that this device is 'drop proof'. Does that mean that it's weightless?

Aleluia!!, esperava a tempos uma review desda marca por você a tempos Dave Hallelujah !!, I was hoping to see a review of this brand by the time Dave

As a hobbyist on a fairly tight budget, I needed a meter that would do the critical functions without breaking the bank. I actually ended up going for the uni-t ut58d (goes for ~30-40 USD, I got it for 25 on ebay). Overall I would highly recommend it. It's no Fluke, but it can measure capacitance, volts/amps ac/dc, diodes, ohms (normal stuff), and the real seller for me was inductance (it's not extremely accurate, but it gets fair accuracy, measured against the fluke we have in our lab)

Dave, how do you feel about the layout at the fuse holder here on the first multimeter? What I find slightly disturbing is that a fuse holder terminal, a corner of it, is right on top of the PCB trace for the opposite fuse terminal, separated only by the solder mask, at least that's what it looks like on video. Now it isn't too bad per se, obviously the two ends are at the same potential and it won't ark or spark over as long as fuse is conductive, but what if the fuse died, could this become a hazard? Is it possible for the corner of the fuse holder to work its way through the solder mask, due to mechanical load or vibration or with age, and effectively short out and disable the fuse? Is this layout trait intentional and good, or irrelevant, or somewhat unfortunate? As an aside, from the footage it looks like the body was much more rigid before it was taken apart and screwed back together; then again it does tell us how it would possibly feel in a few years.

Think I may have mentioned it, This part of your repertoire is so good, manufacturers ought to be forcing you (with kindness and cash) to concentrate here. A special channel? I will buy some shares if you do.

What does the eevblog meter go for? (If it is currently for sale)

you gonna test that 4200A capacity?

i sense a lot of simmilar design features to my fluke 115 are those companys related?

You don't want the backlight to be overly bright it would make it harder to nightvision

Dear Dave: it's pronounced ‘hee-oh-key’, kthxbai.

+EEVblog do u know any meters on the market that can measure watts RMS from a amplifier with different impedances thanks

Can you review the Aneng ST201 clamp meter?

The gap between the upper main fuse clip and the input jack pcb trace seems to be very small isn't it?

i think that giant ceramic "cap" is a PTC in the clamp meter also missed an opportunity to plug your ucurrent ;P

I know this is really off topic, but what is the UK mains plug Amp rating? I always thought (Dependent on RCD and Gauge wiring) it was 32Amp Ring Mains with each socket having a rating of 13Amps or 20Amps if its a duel socket So other than overloading the rating of the socket, thats clearly not advised, what is actually stopping something drawing the full 32Amps from a UK Socket?