I installed this 6000xp about a year ago. I have had absolutely no issues with it. I use it to power my shop. I use 30kw eg4 batteries with a single 4k array. I prefer to monitor it on my phone via web browser vs the app because I can zoom in to see better and you have more options using the web interface.
That is an outstanding "professional" looking installation! Wondering if you are an electrician, it's beautiful work. Thanks for the great vid. I've got the same system sitting in my shop in crate and boxes waiting to be set up. Nice vid, thanks! Looking forward to the next in your series.
Great video I have this paired with the EG4 wall mount battery. For my off grid summer cabin. Any advice before I do this? I will not have grid or generator. I also have no WiFi
I would install it with a 100amp or 70 amp load center breaker panel. Add a couple thousand watts of solar on a simple ground mount. Like the EG4 britemount rack. But I would still look at getting a small generator to charge batteries as a backup. As far as no wifi. The default setting work fine. But you'll just have to get used to the screen if you want to change anything.
Great video Evan, looking to do something very similar with the XP6000. Can you tell me what circuits you have in your critical panel, and the amps. Trying to get a rough idea as to how many I could possibly convert the same way or if I should go to the EG4 12K. Thanks
I have all my lights for the inside of the house. Microwave, Fridge, Deep Freeze, Propane hot water heater, Propane Furnace & HVAC Controls, outlets for living room, kitchen, bedroom, bathroom, & my Fireplace air circulation fan. I usually am using between 500 and 1200 watts. If I use the microwave or other devices the watts will hit just above 3000 watts. So I don't use the full output of the 6000 XP.
I know it's not solar, but it is for off-grid/power down situations - at some point could you do one or two video's on personal wind turbines? We live in the sad, dark, wet PNW and only see the sun 3 months of the year. Solar still works, but isn't as efficient as most places. We do however get a crazy amount of wind. It's also nice to be able to pull some power at night when solar is done for the day. (For the people getting ready to tell me wind isn't very efficient - I know. But it's more efficient than solar at night, or on extremely cloudy days, when there is a very good wind. So basically 9 months out of the year here.) I'm looking at adding a VAWT to our system and would like to see other people's set ups that aren't "duct taped" together like a lot of wind turbine set ups.
I ran 180 watts on one leg and 3250 watts on the other leg, unbalanced and over loaded on second phase. It ran for over 6 minutes, then I stopped the test. Seemed to run unbalanced fine. When I pushed the second phase to 3600 watts it switched to grid, as it should.
@@CountryViewSolar-DIYProjects well you have to keep us posted on how it works, I did about 6 months of research on all aspects, and finally gave up due to the lack of knowing how it affects your home insurance etc. ul listings being legit on panels, batteries, inverters, hard telling over the internet
Really enjoying your new channel. I’m looking at purchasing the Eg4 wall mount battery with the 6000xp inverter. Eg4 does make a wall mount with a 18 kWh inverter. Saw it on the Signature Solar website. John
love the video beautiful setup. i have my 6000xp paired with 3 Orient Power powerwall batteries a bit over 15kwh of back up power plus 10 bifacial solar panels up to 506 watts each . running for 8 months now, and i haven't had any problems with it. running 24/7 nonstop. here in puerto Rico we just had a tropical storm a couple of weeks back where the grid went down for 9 days, and the 6000xp worked flawless!! never lost power
@stopdrpnro I bought the inverter at signature solar and the batteries at orient power and they where ship to me. the solar panels I bought here in puerto rico and I diy.
Really like the new channel. One thing I would like to see is both systems diagrammed out on a white board so I can understand how everything works together. Does one battery system have to run out before the other kicks on, or are they powering different loads?
Evan, Thanks for the new channel. I am installing an xp600 myself. I sure would like you to explain the grounding/ neutral wiring. I think alot of folks would like this.
Neutral is a current carrying conductor that the current returns back to the source on. A ground wire is considered a non- current carrying conductor. No electrical current should be on it in normal conditions. It only carries in current during a fault or failure, which gives a safe path for the electricity to ground. So the neutral and grounds always stay separated, so there is no chance of normal current traveling on a ground wire. Neutral and ground are only bonded together at the first breaker panel, or first means of disconnect from the electrical service. After that, the grounds and neutrals are separated.
Another Excellent Video!! I wondered if you are planning on using the generator port? My understanding is that you can use a 30 amp generator to charge the batteries with a two wire start or a grid-tie inverter. I'm currently running on two grid tie inverters and would love to see an integration of grid-tie inverters into hybrid inverters.
@@CountryViewSolar-DIYProjects FYI on page 20 of the installation manual it says that you can use the generator port as a 30 amp pass through or to create a micro grid as it will send AC power to grid tie inverters to turn them on and get them to send up to 30amp of power to this port. This comes from the latest version of the installation manual and the latest version of the firmware. It appears this is a new feature.
I may down the road use a couple of these to take some of my "on grid" loads to an off grid setup, a phase 2 if you will. After I install my 2 Growatt SPH 10000TL-HU-US setup as a grid-tie install.
At this rate you may convince me to install something similar, though not nearly as large, for our home, Evan. The system you’ve designed is definitely well thought out and at first blush bulletproof. Great video. I still think these outfits should be paying you for representing their products. You’re a natural.
Wait! You said it’s the largest inverter EG4 makes, but that’s NOT true! (They make the 18 Kpv Inverter, and they just came out with the EG4 12Kw Inverter!) Why you say that?!
I'm surprised that it doesn't seem to be using transiant power tech like super capacitor (or the battery tech like those 10KWh induction cooktop use) to handle those power source loss flickering. Still its really cool to see this sort of all-in-one inverter that basically supports just about any type of power source. I'm not sure how to ask this because I don't know the technical terms for it but does it handle inconsistent power sources like wind or hydro? It would be amazing if you had some sort of elevation changing waterflow in your property and got hydropower up. I'm sort of assuming solar is the same way but I'm not sure.
I have 2 Off Grid. The only issue is Generator Connection. Must use 1 Generator connected to All 6000XP's due to phase match. Generator must be at stable RPM or be Inverter Generator. You know how much a Generator like that can cost especially if you have a large system with 4 or more because it must be able to handle the load plus! Solution: All In One's Should have a True Charger built in like the ChargeVerter, Not use the Inverter in reverse. It is time for EG4 to really be the leader and Make the Change! Yes, you can get a bunch of ChargeVerter's at an additional cost. Make sure you start the generator and apply power to the ChargeVerter before switching on the ChargeVerter or it will trip your 6000XP's shutting them down momentarily causing all kind of issues off grid. It is much cheaper to be able to use multiple 6000watt minimum continuous inverter generators hooked up individually to All-In-One's if they had a true charging feature. Cheaper to replace, cheaper to run because you can run 1, 2, 3 etc according to need at that time. I purchased 2 ChargeVerter's because I had no choice. Oh, forgot, if you run a generator that does not have less then 3% distortion, it will damage the 6000XP. Just don't use the Generator Feature At ALL and let EG4 know how you feel about that.
Are you running the same panels for your two different inverters? Or did you install did you install some new strings? I ended up going with the 10k GroWatt for my DIY. In MA we have full net metering up 10 kw, so $/kw you just can't beat it. Had a little starting growing pains but so far she's been pretty rock solid.
Mine has a internal communication fault. It won't accept the pv. Tier 1 tech at signature solar couldn't fix it. We'll see what tier 2 support says on Monday. I've had it installed for 3 weeks. 😢
The charge current is likely hitting a limit set by the battery BMS or the battery is asking for the current level from the charge controller. Wouldn't think that the panel is just coming up short that much. You'd have to get into the battery configuration if that's possible? I've got six battery packs connected to three controllers and have the charge and discharge current crowbarred at 50 amps on each battery. So my DC bus basically has a 300 amp limit. Your system is probably working as it's supposed to.
the battery has a max charging current of 200 Amps. I could easily see the difference between AC charging only and AC plus solar, by turning off and on the solar disconnnect. Charging increased when solar of introduced. and charging decreased back to 101 amps when solar was shut off.
I am new to the idea of solar batteries and inverters etc. That being said, about how long would a system like yours Evan run a 3 ton heat pump some lights and a fridge before having to recharge the batteries. Can the batteries be charged using a portable generator? Thanks for any feedback!
My 3 ton AC unit is the largest power consumer in my house. Just the heat pump, not the air circulation unit uses 11 to 18kW Hours in a day depending on outside temperature. So maybe 12 to 16 hours without any solar charging. You would need more battery to run a AC unit longer. You can charge the batteries using a EG4 chargeverter and a generator. I am not sure if the generator input on the 6000XP charges the batteries or run loads, or both.
Good video. I’m wondering when does the switch from grid to battery is there a way in the software to delay the switch back to the grid? Reason I’m asking our power company will switch on and off many times till I get it settled within 30 seconds maybe a minute go on and off on and off. I lost one refrigerator because of that I knowBox between my refrigerator and the plug that wants to power goes off the box delays the power coming back on the fridge raider for three minutes just to prevent the surgeries and stuff anyway is there anything in the software that you can adjust for that just curious thank you
Can you connect straight to house In between grid meter and main breaker box . So you don’t need a critical load cause all of house is . I heard Sol-Ark can
I'd be interested to learn what your DC loss is delivering from your panels all the way across to your house. What voltage are those strings outputting at when you have full array production?
My new solar panels when I have them mounted. Will be operating at 304 VDC. And 12.84 amps. Running that through a voltage drop calculator at 200 feet of 10 awg wire. I will have a 2% drop in voltage.
I bought 20 more solar panels. They are Canadian solar 390 watt. So I can put 3900 watts on each solar input, for a total of 7800 watts. I choice them because I could almost max out the system, and they were a good price. The amperage matched up the 6000XP very well. They are out of stock now. If I was looking for a different solar panel. I would look for one around 12 to 14 operating amps. If i was looking at bifacial panels, I would make sure the Bifacial gain was under the 16 operating amps. Because that is max operating Solar input of the 6000XP.
Is it possible your charge current was less than the 125A because it was also delivering to your loads? I imagine the inverter needs to still serve the loads while it is charging the batteries right?
Just a request... I will be mounting my EG4 6000XP when my battery arrives sometime this week and I just have one request. While the battery is charging what is the temperature of the air being exhausted by the unit with the fans running? Just curious. Thanks Don
I did a text for you. My basement isn65 degrees Fahrenheit. The fans were blowing out 74 degree air. I turned on AC charging. After 10 minutes I checked the fans andb95 degree was the highest temp I saw.
@@CountryViewSolar-DIYProjects Thank you very much. The area that I am putting the 6000XP and 14.3 kW battery is a small area and was wondering if I need to drop an AC duct into it. I guess I will. Have a GREAT DAY! Battery is due to arrive this afternoon.
You can’t share the conduit for the input n output panel to the eg4 without derating the wire as you have more than three current carrying conductors per the nec
Yes, you are correct. I would need to de-rate to 80%. Which would make the wire rated for 44 amps. Even though it is technically a violation, they are in the same conduit for only 16 inches. I don't think I will go back an change it.
@@CountryViewSolar-DIYProjects didn’t think you would but if you use 90c wire you’d probably squeeze by for ‘government work’ lol but had to mention it nevertheless. Goal is to make things intrinsically safe
Great video. I also have a 6000xp and for the past 10 months and have been very impressed. For charging, make sure you adjust your overall charge limits and AC charge limits in the app, might be able to get you to the 125-140a charge rate. For true grid failure cutover, have no blink of lights or other interruption on mine when the grid really fails (not flipping a breaker). Manually tripping a breaker does cause a blink/etc, wonder if it's the time for the breaker to truly open that causes it.
Good video. You touched on a few points that had not settled into my brain from other reviews. Off-grid, allows grid charging/passthrough but not net metering. Seamless transitions between grid/off-grid and overloads/recovery. Love for an update once you have 8k solar feeding the 6000xp. ❤❤❤🎉
Excellent work there sir.. Question for you.. are you using the portable power stations you originally got in the systems you now have installed? Stay safe 🏴
Evan, big fan here. Can you do me a favor and explain how does the grid work with the 6000xp from the original breaker box (how’s the grid breaker work if the main switch is cut off?) I so confused there. Thanks.
The typical installations the main breaker box would be powered from the grid and would lose power in a grid down situation. But in normal running conditions would provide a backup power source for the 6000XP. The 6000XP would be powering loads that you would want to have working when the grid is down. I hope that answers your question.
I’m talking about how is grid tied to original box to recharge the battery (if the original system is down). How does 6000xp switch back if not enough battery or solar panel power?
Evan, I wasn’t able to find the max charge spec for the powerpro on the Signature Solar website. While the inverter might be capable of 120ADC max charge, the battery might be the limiting factor. With the inverter talking to the battery it might be throttling the charge rate down…
If you look at the spec sheet of the indoor power pro battery (top section) the max charge is 200A, but the recommended is 60-160A. So the BMS should allow it to charge at 125A
Thanks for the informative video, really helping me figure out what direction I want to go with my solar adventure. One question, did you consider the 18k PV from EG4? If you did what made you decide on the 6000XP over it?
The agreement I have with the power company, limits me to 10K of AC power production (as stamped on the inverters output) So I really can't add any more AC coupled/Grid tied inverters or I would be breaking the contract. Plus the 6000xp is more budget friendly. I will consider putting a 12kPV or 18kPV on the farm side of the property.
Wow, Illinois power is hard on solar producers. My rural cooperative allows 25kw for production and 5cents per kwh on average or half retail for time of use. Granted this is rural indiana. Im guessing illinois needs to pay for all the nuke plants they have which is 10 I believe. Indiana has zero.
Do you think you should be doing a bit of a written disclaimer on this kind of video? I'd hate to see you get into legal trouble from someone doing something dumb and blaming you.
Evan, I love your farm videos, but tech is a whole different ball game. Don't mean to be negative, sorry , but I don't care to watch what technology companies are coming out with. So I won't be tuning in.Just my opinion. Best to you and Rebecca.
Ok so I can't seem to get anyone else to answer. Can you run this system with just batteries and possibly a generator or do you actually have to put an AC input source.
I doesn't seem to have generator settings that you can adjust. So at first glance I don't think it will work that way. You could get an EG4 charge verter and use that to charge the batteries manually. But I don't see where you can change any generator or generator auto start settings.
Hello Evan, I am just considering an off-grid system for my rural home here in Germany. I categorised also critical loads and standard loads. Critical loads would be all IT (router, switches, smart home, surveillance), freezers, guiding/night lights, important flood lights, power sockets for radio/TV/phone chargers). Did I miss something? Would be great to get your input in case. I am enjoying your channels so much! Please continue this way! Arno
You might want someway to cook food. A microwave or kitchen outlets for coffee pot, toaster oven etc. Also refrigerator might be a choice, if outages are several hours. Also bathroom lights might be handy.
Hallo Evan, thanks for replying. I considered this, but in a different way. We do have a gas powered second kitchen in our barn. So the primary one can be w/o electricity in case.
