I have been looking at this one and the BigBattery ETHOS setup. I like this one because it is shorter and potentially easier to stack an inverter on top of. I like the Ethos because it would be easier to handle and setup because the modules are lighter.
When Riuxu releases their UL certified 16kWh battery also with built in fire suppression like the EG4, for around $3K US, Signature Solar and all other vendors/brands using this 14.3kWh battery will have to drop their price significantly if they want to compete. And just the lat few weeks, Riuxu and a couple other brands dropped their no frills server rack batteries close to the $1000 US mark. Signature Solar will need to do something to compete there too, not just their current sale of $1149 US.
I'm in the process of setting this exact same setup up. 2x wall batteries and a 6000xp. It's been a pleasure to work with so far. Pairing it with 20x Aptos bifacial panels for a ground mount system. Whole process from ordering to shipment and delivery was smooth as silk with signature solar.
@@marcellowithtwols did you ever get that figured out, I am going to go with the ruixu one. A 800 amp busbar one that uses ampenol or lugs. hope that helps
You can build your own for 100.00 per kwh. I just prefer it, self serviceable, most cost effective and the biggest upside... you have such a complete understanding of your system and how to scale it
Sure you can -- but *should* you? Check the various solar forums around the world. You'll usually find several 'I burned my house down' threads. 90+% of those threads are from DIY battery packs. I'll wager that there is no possible way that a person can have a complete understanding of how their system components work - only how they are supposed to work. Good luck.
@@geneinmyrtlebeach6967 I am a retired engineer in NorCal. I have built 14 ''solar generator'' systems from 50 amp hours to 3600 amp hours, almost all LiFeP04 factory batteries with internal BMS. I build for friends and family, did vans including my own and motorhomes, began after the 2017 Tubbs Fire that destroyed 1500 homes overnight.. I understand these systems very well. On August 2, 2024, a 300 amp hour name brand battery caught fire in my shop and burned up the 24 volt power console with 12 LFP batteries. The bottom row battery must have failed a BMS. The Fire Investigators have not concluded anything yet but suspect the BMS. I was so lucky to be near it when I heard the pop and saw black smoke pouring out of the shop. I had hydrant pressure 120psi water on it within 70 seconds through a 1'' wildland hose and variable nozzle. The unit ran 24/7 for 18 months, always low loads 1000 watts of 12,000 watts capable split phase LF inverter charger, everything ANL fused on the negative posts, 4/0 and 2/0 wire all around, hydraulically crimped ends, same length cables. It basically ran 2 fridges and 5 late model chest freezers, 118 to 145 running watts each. I measure this stuff and mark it on all appliances in Watts. The MPPT's were name brand 60 amp each, the 2 strings of panels were under powered and saw morning sun on one, afternoon sun on the other. I have seen them cut out many times at 100% battery and had months of confidence in them. I have video monitoring of the battery SOC meter on a cell phone app. I look at it 20 times a day....bad habit. There was smoke and water damage to the shop and adjoining garage. The flames almost burned through my bedroom floor located above the garage. Conclusion.....I will rebuild with EG4 stuff, the 18kpv all in one, 3 batteries...OUTDOOR RATED, and it will be in a stucco sided shed away from the house with a thermally fused 205 degree water spray nozzles. That was a wake up call. I could have lost EVERYTHING that day. I prepped for wildfire but never thought it would start inside my place. There is a 1-1/2'' steel pipe sprinkler line around 2 sides of the property, multiple 1'' ag impact bronze sprinklers, several 1-1/2'' NSF fire hose fittings with ball valves, wildland hoses galore, nozzles, 2 Scotty foam guns. And a defective battery BMS almost did me in.
So everyone is talking about this magical “paralleling kit”. I now have two of these batteries that I can’t connect together because no one posts the actual part number needed, and signaturesolar doesn’t sell such paralleling kit (degson connector). Help!! 😅
it's probably because they haven't changed the name and documentation everywhere to match up, but it's the same "parallel kit" as the outdoor powerpro. signaturesolar.com/eg4-powerpro-battery-paralleling-cables?ref=bkpkbxde If you only need the connectors, you can get them and make your own cables: Orange - signaturesolar.com/eg4-powerpro-battery-cable-connector-orange/?ref=bkpkbxde Black - signaturesolar.com/eg4-powerpro-battery-cable-connector-black/?ref=bkpkbxde
IF one has an inverter like the 6000XP or 18Kpv, after the sun goes down and this thing is charged up, would it having any issues powering an electric 220v oven for an hour or two in addition to other standard house items, such as lighting, television, fridge? Also, what about charging an EV that has a 70 kWh battery?
Buy 2 or 3 batteries The amount of kilowatt-hours (kWh) needed to fully charge a Tesla depends on the model and the charging speed. For example, a Tesla Model 3 has a 50 kWh battery, so it takes 50 kWh to charge from 0% to 100%. The Tesla Model Y Long Range and Performance models have a 75 kWh battery, so it takes 75 kWh to charge from 0% to 100%. The Tesla Model S and X variants have a 100 kWh battery.
@@samfish6938 Two or three batteries eh.. you mean something like 3x of these 14.3 batteries? So 40 kWh?! I wonder if a single one of these batteries is sufficient for an average of 10 kWH/day of use in the home (includes use of 220 volt oven)? I feel like I could get away with just a single 5.12 LL-S style battery that would suffice to start (no EV charging of course), at least it would likely get my home through the evening, possibly?
Depends on your usage. In a grid down situation you probably won’t need to run everything, or say you shouldn’t run everything. If you run critical loads like fridge, kitchen appliances, lights, and tv, you should be able to get through for a few hours and even over night depending on your usage. So I would just say you have about (14.3 * .9) ~ 12.8 kWh worth of energy in the set up. Assuming you don’t have any panels connected. Assume you’re going to use about 12 kW of that energy so depending on how much you need to use you should be able to get through the night. I think I saw a statistic not too long ago that said the average American household uses somewhere around 35 to 55 kWh a day. But a bulk of that number is running HVAC units. So if you move the biggest consumers, you should be able to be good for close to a day if not more. And if for whatever reason, you already have a generator, you could always use it to charge the battery
Keep in mind you won't be charging the EV from 0% to 100% every day. and hopefully you can charge it during the day when the sun is out. But regardless. I suggest you check your current power bill and estimate your current daily usage and go from there. Say for example when I look at my bill, I find peak usage is in January. I average about 22KWh a day in Jan. I would suggest aim for double your daily max. In my case 44KWh, which is about what 3 of these batteries equal.
Really appreciate your helpful vids! I am getting 3 of these and am wondering if they actually need to be connected to the wall or can be left freestanding near the wall? The instructions don't say they have to be mounted but are they just assuming everyone will? It will be difficult for me to locate them in the optimal place if they need to be attached to the wall. Also, when paralleling 3 batteries to one inverter they show the central battery as the one connected to the inverter. It would be better if I could use an end battery to run to the inverter. Do you think it would be OK to do that? If so, would I need to add paralleling cables (2 sets instead of one between the batteries)? Thanks again!
In theory they can be free standing, although it will be a risk bc they can tip over and take out the whole system. i highly recommend that you mount them to some secure surface. also, you should use the middle battery because it minimize the length of cable the power has to travel to the inverter. If you connect it to the end, although it will work, there will be more balancing issues bc 1 battery is further away, i've seen this issue with my bank, bc i have long cables connected to another battery bank in parallel with the indoors
There is possibly build 30kwh battery with eve cells for approximately 2200-2500$ exclusive bms, but good jk bms cost like 100-200. My conclusion is diy cheaper
I just built a 48V 16kWh battery (using the latest 314Ah EVE MB31 cells) with oversized disconnect breaker, class-T fuse, 150A JK inverter BMS w/2A active balancer for just under $2000 US ($125/kWh). This is with the lowest priced reputable EVE cells delivered from ventor QSO on Alibaba. QSO has never disappointed me. Just don't ever skimp on the overcurrent protections regardless of the additional cost. Yes, DIY is still significantly less expensive per kWh but the margins are shrinking little by little. And no certifications with DIY though...lol
