Egress Window Installation on an existing foundation 

Sorry for your bad luck. Glad we could help.

How did let this happen?

if it floods, normally you have too much water sitting around the house, use gutter extenders to keep water away from those egresses. I have 6 of them and I had bad gutters, I replaced them and now they concentrate on one of the corners which tend to let water in when it rains like crazy, I live in Indiana and it will make its away around the housing from under the gravel and will start to flood until it reaches the window and will leak into from the windows. I used a 12 feet gutter fall tube and it minimized the flooding by probably 90%, rare occasions it will fill up and leak into my basement, the permanent cure is to make a box of waterproof concrete instead of the plastic or metal housing that will enable water intrusion.

😂😂😂

Thanks lol

That's awesome news. It's becoming a great niche to get into. I think once you get the cutting done it will be second nature on your window install with your background. Good Luck. Thanks for watching.

The seal plate along with the 2×6 frame we install for the window supports that short distance.

Inspectors are mostly of no help on this subject, and never give clear cut answers. I'm no professional, structural engineer. But...I'm pretty sure if the joists run perpendicular, and bear weight onto the wall in which you are cutting, there no doubt needs to be a structural header. If they run parallel, I'm pretty sure it won't be required to have a structural header. If they run parallel to your cut, I would actually just sister another parallel joist in there to be safe and call it a day, then frame out the window opening as per usual.

​@@glennmiller7850 You are absolutely correct. This is NOT the way to install ANY egress of any kind. There are several code failures in this install. The header is not only REQUIRED for structural support, but it is also required for fire rating. This egress will likely not even open after that sill plate moves a little. Even internal doors in non-load-bearing walls require a header over them. Let's be honest, the guy removing the blocks had no idea what the tie down was. I just hope no one needs that egress a year from now.

They have a structural engineer on-call, like I do. For anything that requires a larger width.. The engineer has to sign off for the permit to even be issued.. Or to pass an inspection.

Thanks. I'm glad it helped you.

It took 2 days not 2 weeks. Lol

We use an outdoor window caulk.

You are welcome. Thanks for watching.

How long did it take you to cut each window with that type of saw? I'm going to cut a 32x36

@@filter315 maybe 6-8 hr per widow the cut is actually 4”9x4”9 did not include removing the cutout.

You will have to install the window on the back of the house. You will just have more cutting to do.

Where are you located?

61375

He has internal ear plugs in. The window locks from the inside.

Thank you on the awesome review. We are happy to hear you enjoyed the video.

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Yeah, nothing like spinning a diamond saw blade in a thick concrete wall and a real healthy dose of concrete dust filling the air for 5 or 6 hours. Gotta love it knowing you did it yourself and at the end of the day knowing that no matter what everyone will have no doubt you are not fucking around but instead going big and leaving the evidence behind that says you put in a full day's work. Yeah maybe its gonna take some serious time and money to clean up that seventy or eighty pounds of pure crystalyn silica spread though out the home but at least there's probably only a few weeks left and that's when the real progress starts to take shape.

Thanks for watching and good luck on your installation.

I do not know anybody in that area. Sorry. Do some investigating and you should be able to find someone capable of installing an egress window.

630 398 2916 Jesus free estimate

It's a cut and break saw by Husqvarna. Here is a link. www.husqvarnacp.com/us/machines/power-cutters/k-760-cut-n-break/967195701/

Thank you man. I appreciate the great comment. I should have said that.

www.contractorsdirect.com/Husqvarna-Cut-n-Break-Diamond-Blade

The quote was $3,500.00 total for materials and labor. We stayed right on budget. Thanks for watching.

@@quik-n-ezconcretecreations9013 very reasonable. I wished you were in PA

That's good price...

That's a great point. We don't own one and no one rents one around here. We rent the cut and break saw because it's available. Thanks for watching and the great comment.

Thank you. Thanks for watching the video.

Unfortunately I do not have that situation on film yet. When I do I will upload it.

Very minimal if you tape it up real well with plastic.

Yes my brother was not consistently wearing eye protection, but he had ear plugs in. I appreciate you watching our video and comments. Subscribe we will have more videos in weeks to come.

In this particular situation it did not warrant one.

Central Illinois

Depends on the size of basement window you pick up from your concrete contractor warehouse. We measure the window and add 4" for the width. This accounts for the 2x6 on each side which are 1.5" thick plus 1/2" wiggle room to make sure it fits. The height is the same adding 4" to the overall window height measurement. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching.

@@quik-n-ezconcretecreations9013 yes it does thanks

Thanks.

Thanks for watching

We backfilled inside the window well and behind it with 5/8" septic gravel for drainage. We also installed a plastic cover to keep the majority of the rain out. Thanks for watching the video.

@@quik-n-ezconcretecreations9013 I wrote my question before I saw the lid you put on. Pretty nice

@@rickduncan362thanks.

We use on block walls 1/4" x 2" tapcons with a fender washer. 2 per side minimum. On poured concrete walls 1/4" × 3" tapcon with fender washer.

On average it takes a couple hours to cut the wall. Thanks for watching.

We bought it at a concrete supply company named in Stetson in Decatur, il.

Quik-N-Ez Concrete Creations thanks...is that 48x36x60 window well?

Houses built in the midwest prior to 1950 were using concrete blocks for foundations. I might have used the term cinder, but should have said concrete blocks. There are still crawlspace and room additions installed today with concrete block. Once some concrete contractors in the area [my grandpa being one] bought wall forms everybody in the late 60's and 70's switched over to poured walls. Thanks for watching.

Quik-N-Ez Concrete Creations I live in the Midwest and own a home built in 1949 it used limestone for foundation. I’ve never seen cinder block. Those are cinder blocks not concrete blocks as you say.

@@edbtzkhud I appreciate your enthusiasm, but I've been in thousands of basements in the last 25 years in central Illinois. This was the main component used for foundations prior to the 50's. Sorry if your confused with my experience, but every region does something different. I appreciate you watching the video.

Seriously?