Thanks for the video! Subscribed. I think it would be interesting to compare the build quality between cheap tools and more expensive ones. I've had expensive and cheap tools and to be honest never noticed much difference between them that would justify paying 2-3x more. I've had bosch professional drills lasting less than a year with moderate use and cheap drills from Lidl (Parkside) lasting years and getting the same job done. So i'm wondering what's so much better in a Bosch, Dewat, Makita than Einhell or Parkside, build quality wise, that would justify paying double or triple the price (or making them last 2-3x longer). Thanks!
bosch professional is where youll see a difference. same for milwaukee and some other prosumer tool brands. they use higher quality parts and give you more power, runtime, longevity. specifically, 4-brush dc motors from name brands such as mabuchi, much higher quality gears and mechanical parts, expensive molybdenum sulfite grease and high glass fiber content in the plastic casing for higher impact resistance. i think i know which bosch drill you are talking about. bosch sadly happily runs their normal consumer tool brand into the ground with mediocre quality and enormous profit margins. other tool brands do a better job.
It's very much a marketing paying for the brand name and an ecosystem game these day's as well. Once you spend money on a battery & charger system you tend to stick to a certain brand. Yes, brands operating in the lower price point of the market tend to use different components to those big enough to either make their own or buy in higher quality items but for the most part tools are all made in the same way. The margin is just bigger with some brands. You can compare it to the difference in car brands. They all do roughly the same thing but you pay more for a Mercedes then you do for a VW. Milwaukee is owned by the same company making Ryobi & AEG (Rigid in the US) do they use that many different/ better components to make one brand that much better than the other? It's very much a question as to what do you want out of a tool. Do you use it every day to make money or just the odd time here or there for a DIY project. What are you using it for and how, the power you need, etc. Then it's very much a question as to how much do you want to spend and what do you get in terms of, ergonomics, warranty, spare parts, etc. (Makita for example don't sell spares directly on their website, so you have to send your tool away, which to me is less ideal) There are plenty of video's out there on the premium brands in terms of reviews & tearodwns, the for me interesting thing is to see how the cheaper brands are doing things as this is less well covered on youtube, but I'll invest in some premium tools for a few reviews to compare against ;)
@@toolteardown Do you know the youtube channel AvE? He does tool reviews on an expert level and shows that some tools are on a completely different level than others. He also shows how and why many consumer grade tools wont last very long (under regular use). I think your reviews are not nearly critical enough, e.g. the Einhell Brushless drills have a non-potted PCB which is not just theoretically problematic but even the reviews show that it is a very common failure point. Cheap tools are good for moderate use (most hobbyists) and sometimes you can get around flaws by knowing them well (e.g. avoiding dust getting into the Einhell drills). Bosch Blue vs Green is a night and day difference in most cases. Paying more for tools usually gets you a lot better quality, although there are brands sneaking cheap designs into the professional market.
Tell me how this sander works on walls or ceilings. It's quite high, and with my 5,2Ah batt will by heavy. I'll do some plasterboard construction and I'm wondering about it. And what about vibration?
Drywall or Plaster is a very soft material, so you can get a lot done with a 2Ah/3Ah battery as you run the sander at speed setting 2 - 3 with little to no pressure. The heavier batteries will make it more difficult over longer periods of time. I tend to use both hands just to keep it flat to the surface with 120 grid paper. Ceilings are a little more cumbersome as you tend to having to hold it above you head... (getting a bespoke drywall sander would probably be better, but for the odd job this works pretty well) Vibrations will become a things after a few hours of sanding and you might want to hook a vacuum onto the sander as the dust is unreal! ;)
Hello Hasan, if you mean the brushless impact driver TE-CW have a look at the video I made about it’s twin the TE-CI. They are very similar in build & internals besides the piece you put the sockets on. m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FMNTZ2Tu5wY.html
