I just got back from the garage and finally got the e-brakes adjusted properly. I can not thank you enough for making this video for us. Thank you Chris.
Solid tutorial. I know brakes, but this is icing on the cake. I'm doing a drum to disc conversion, and I received this kit. My clip popped off during installation, assuming I didn't need 'em. I had to find a tutorial and so now I know the clip remains on the caliper.
This was a help the basic information without a bunch of unnecessary fluff thank you help me with my conversion on my 46 stylemaster coupe with a Nova rear end
Morning Chris , This video explains procedure to the fullest . I did mine on car did not inspect for missing parts , went from low sponge peddle brake light when first applied low fluid bleed pressure To a great put you through the windshield brakes . A little tip . When ordering a kit from a secondary vendor be sure the parts are in stock to ship . Had this 68 charger stuck on rack for 4 months waiting on back order parts . Thanks Again Chris
Another tip for Chrysler , this charger was converted to all right hand studs , new studs have a shoulder on them so rotor did not sit flush on axle flange .Could not figure out why I couldn't get calipers to line up . Double checked axles were not hitting in center all new green bearings had correct spacers . Had to drill out rotors to fit over stud shoulder .
This is the only video I've found with good enough detail to get this right! My car is an 87 Camaro with the performance rear end delco-moraine calipers...just like this. I couldn't get an inspection sticker until I rebuilt them with a "recall kit": these fancy pistons and the seals and springs you show here. Thanks for the tips! My parking brake holds tight!
i've had my bracket notched out for years ,cause i couldn't get that last 1/8" of adjustment. i've had zero issues. something important that you forgot to mention. you want to take up all the slack with the fine tune e-brake adjustments. if you don't, and say ahh "its good enough" you will definitely have a soft brake feel,(ask me how i know) because that travel distance has to be made up by hydraulic pressure now. just an fyi... great vid. liked and subd
i did mention that but i didnt make it a big enough point.. you are 100% right about that... in the video i say just back off the caliper enough to free them from the rotor and make your tiny adjustments..but i said it so fast... people.. pay attention to this or you will have slack.... thanks for the comment..
I fought with mine on my 1985 Toyota axle with these calipers and they never were right. I'm going to pull mine apart and redo them according to this info. Thank you.
Brill video, really really well shot and explained. Confused though because watched other videos where they adjust the arm but by turning the screw rather than grabbing and turning the actual piston
a few things.. as i have dealt with these brakes since 1980.. i have scrounged a spare parking brake arm and cut it down to a hex.. i should have marked it to the stop angle before i cut it down but i had not. i install the now hex section of the parking brake lever and with the nylon and rubber seal installed.. and the nut holding the hex plate i turn the hex to retract the piston.. this allows me to spin the inner piston to attempt to get it to the proper spot.. sorry i don't have any of these for photos.. i also used at one point a A/C service wrench.. it is a ratcheting box end wrench with 1/2" and 9/16 hex on one end.. and 1/4" and 5/16 square on the other.. i ground the faces of the 1/2-9/16 end so i could get it on the stub shaft and the nut on a few threads.. i could work the actuator shaft and spin the inner piston to a new position. this worked great. till it grew legs.. the last tool i had was either a 9/16 or 14MM crow foot tubing wrench.. HF and other people sell them in kits.. that i ground thinner so it would go on the actuator shaft and the nut would go on to hold it. then i could just spin the heck out of it with a ratchet.. i did have to grind the end near the drive square.
Thanks for the video. Installing a kit on a friends gto and I have never messed with these calipers before. I had it like...maybe 75% semi figured out and your video made me go "oooh" lol
There is another way to adjust the E brake lever. No need to notch or run more than 1/4 in movement at the lever. Here Mr Chris explains how the adjusting screw "bottoms out". Now the puck is missing a notch that makes adjusting the arm tricky. Here is the trick, keep turning the puck in the direction (opposite) the direction the adjusting screw bottoms. This way the puck, And adjusting screw move in the same direction. Adjusting screw stays bottomed out, but now you have reached the next notch on the puck, try the adjustment again, I got both caliper E brake levers movement down to within 1/8 in, and pads fit snug against the rotors. A little bit more bleeding and you should be good to go. That's the trick, spin the whole damn puck around in the bore against the adjusting screw it will stay bottomed, to the next notch, ie, adjustment. I adjusted mine on the vehicle. And yes, you have to work fast, because of the spring loaded puck will "slowly" spin and moves the notch over on the puck making the pads "bump" (locking tab, rivet) not seat, work swiftly. Bloody good show!
Excellent video! I have a set on my 65 Fastback. I’ve tried adjusting it many times to no avail. Passenger side is good. I’m going to pull the driver’s side like you said. I thought I was going to have to buy a different caliper. I’ll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again!
you will figure it out.. I do t know everything about them and it was my first time messing with them and they have been adjusted on the car perfect since the video
Good stuff. I’ve got the 77-79 caliper, I’ve order two sets of pads and no pins, I’ve also never seen one of those clips. Do you know if those are required for my application? Aside from the casting being a little different, they appear to be about the same deal
Would it be possible to adjust them while they are on the car with older pads? Handbrake was never properly adjusted on my car and have had it like this for a year or so
Hi Chris, Thanks for doing the video. I have these calipers on a rear disc conversion kit for my 1973 barracuda. I have the e-brake lever adjusted properly and according to your video and the poor instructions that came with the kit. Can you tell me how to resolve the tight drag condition I am experiencing. it should not be this hard. thanks !
Put this conversion kit on my car and it’s been kicking my ass for a week. This helped a ton. One other thing the outside pad rattles like crazy. Do I need to add a spacer?
they have a clip on them that’s all I know.. check out part 2 it goes over e brake adjustment.. they are very confusing at first but become very simple
What prevents the piston from rotating? Is it the caliper? Also what happens when the hydraulic fluid expands the piston in normal use while driving, does the lever move too?
I bought a set of those same calipers but they did not come with banjo bolts,cable bracket,spring or a lever! Any idea where I could find those items besides a salvage yard that does not have any vehicles that old???
I've been struggling with this issue for a week now. I've gone thru 2 pair of NAPA calipers for my '79 Trans Am, and the rotors get very hot...Temps of 180 to 200 degrees. So hot that the aluminum snowflake wheel is too hot to touch, and they hang up so bad that the axle seal was leaking due to overheating. I'm afraid that the oil is going to start on fire if I keep driving it. I replaced both axle bearings and seals, bought new calipers and brake pads, I just can't get these damn things adjusted so that they don't drag and get so blazing hot. I've got another set of calipers on order and should be here next week Wednesday. In the video when you made the final park brake adjustment, and then removed the caliper from the rotor, but it appeared to me that the caliper came off hard, not easily. Which would indicate to me that the rotor will get smokin hot. Any help would be appreciated.
@@chriscraft77022 so just I'm clear on this, I should bleed the brakes, and pump them up, before adjusting the park brake? Or adjust the park brake first, then bleed the brakes?
yes.. ebrake adjustment is last., after you test them out.. bled and everything., a lot of people don’t even hook the e brake up.. unhook it completely and get the brakes right then go back and set it up
Chris, you might not remember, but when you are working on the lever on the rotor in the vise .... if you stand to your right more so you are looking at the rotor from outside the vehicle, the lever would move clockwise to apply. Is your other caliper for also clockwise to tighten? Did that make sense?
they are opposites.. you do realize this was the first time in my life I messed with them and that they have been on the car fully adjusted and working perfect for like 5 years now
@@chriscraft77022 thanks for replying. I been fighting weak brakes on an 80 Trans Am for a few years now. Found your video tried doing it. When I tested the drivers side, the lever worked in reverse. Pushing on lever released the piston. When the spring pushed the lever away it applied the break. I made this video today of it: m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Y8Xs_fMgN-U.html
the boot just pops off .. you can just pull it up... sorry. I do have another video on this caliper .. I’m sure I show it on that one.. early vids. It’s in the other video around 5:30 I pushed the whole thing out
Huh, I’m befuddled. None of the 76-78 calipers I have seen come with the clip or parking brake business. I got an actuation bracket/spring kit to get the cable on, had to drill the hole out for the bracket, but it seems to line up all good. Do the caliper pins on that caliper not hold that pad up? I ordered a pair of Wagner ceramics, and raybestos pads for a 77 eldorado and neither have the tab.
Hey Chris any downside to grinding that lever, my adjustment is out exactly the amount yours was! My mechanic gave up on me, no rear brakes or Ebrake on 1999 suburban! and i'm not sure i could get that brake back on, if i took it off. Great Video!!!
@@2015_Rubicnn it was very frustrating because you don’t expect them to be bad from the factory. I had them on and off probably 6-7 times before someone convinced me to just exchange it to rule out any defects and sure enough. Good luck!
Hey Chris my name is Juan I’m from Corpus Christi I have a 64 impala saying brake system do you have on your car I have a little bit issue the brake cable came off the right rear and it was leaking right there with a bow goes in and out I lost it in the washer in the little gasket I bought it for 10 bucks at AutoZone I ordered it but now I have an issue The screws it goes in and out from the caliper is leaking due I need to do what you did in the video do I need to take the whole caliper off I wish you could call me if so let me know I’ll give you my number
check out www.classicperform.com/tech_articles/PDF/Street-Rodder-11-15-Tech-Article-2.pdf in combination with this youtube video to fully understand and master adjustment . Read article .Watch video. Repeat if needed.
Its not Right the Piston is not turning ....the Worm is in the Ratched system and that will turn ....not the Piston. the Piston only moves outward because the Worm pushes outward.
I did change the prop. valve but that has nothing to do with not having a pedal.. I bled my brakes by myself and they have had a full pedal the first time I tried.. no problems at all bleeding these calipers
